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eat style oughout enturies - Copenhagen Tourist

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CenTuRies in The mAking<br />

The centrepiece of Frederik V’s new district<br />

was to be a grand basilica rivalling those of<br />

europe’s gr<strong>eat</strong>est cities, and although the<br />

founding stone of Frederikskirken (also<br />

known as Marmorkirken, or the Marble<br />

Church) was laid with gr<strong>eat</strong> ceremony in 1749<br />

the church stood as a mere project-in-themaking<br />

– or a romantic ruin in the eyes of<br />

many artists – for more than a century while<br />

the grand project fell out of grace with the<br />

king’s successors.<br />

In 1874, the site was sold to a wealthy<br />

Danish industrialist and patron of the arts, C. F.<br />

Tietgen (1828-1901), under the condition that<br />

he concluded the project within ten years,<br />

although it took a further decade and countless<br />

design revisions by architect F. Meldal (1827-<br />

1908) before the church was finally consecrated.<br />

More than a century later the grand<br />

scheme was finally completed in 2010 when<br />

contemporary RIBa award-winning architect<br />

Tony Fretton added the final corner building.<br />

The Russian<br />

Alexander Nevsky<br />

Church in Bredgade.<br />

naturally, a district built on renaissance ideals<br />

needed a grand monumental square, and an<br />

octagonal plaza was cr<strong>eat</strong>ed on the transverse<br />

axis running from Frederikskirken to the<br />

harbour, complete with an equestrian statue of<br />

the district’s founder, Frederik V. here four<br />

noble families commissioned four almost<br />

identical manors, today considered among<br />

europe’s finest examples of Rococo architecture.<br />

They remained separate aristocratic<br />

homes until a winter’s night in 1794 when<br />

Christiansborg palace was razed by a gr<strong>eat</strong> fire<br />

and the Danish royal family fell in dire need of<br />

a new home.<br />

now known as Amalienborg Palace, the<br />

four palatial homes still remain the official<br />

residence of the Danish monarch (see page 42).<br />

gAlleRies AnD<br />

boATmen’s houses<br />

Vintage Danish design stores and contemporary<br />

art galleries flank today’s Bredgade,<br />

one of Frederikstaden’s two main arteries. here<br />

you also find one of the nation’s leading<br />

decorative art museum, the Designmuseum<br />

Danmark (see page 99). Be sure to notice<br />

some of the small surprises, such as the golden<br />

onion domes of the Russian alexander nevsky<br />

Church (1883) and Medical Museion (see page<br />

105). When you’ve reached the end of the<br />

street, when heading from Kongens nytorv,<br />

Nyboder is one of the first row house districts in the world.<br />

turn left to discover a unique neighbourhood,<br />

Nyboder. The boatmen’s row houses were<br />

commissioned in 1631 by one of Denmark’s<br />

most enterprising renaissance monarchs, King<br />

Christian IV (1577-1648), who with this new<br />

neighbourhood cr<strong>eat</strong>ed homes for the<br />

personnel of the rapidly growing Royal Danish<br />

navy and their families during that time. Many<br />

of the streets carry exotic names, such as<br />

Krokodillegade (Crocodile Street) and<br />

Tigergade (Tiger Street). and the quaint row<br />

houses are lime-washed with a warm hue<br />

known as ‘nyboder yellow’. a small museum,<br />

Nyboders Mindestuer, relates the area’s<br />

colourful history.<br />

on your way back to the city centre, head<br />

down Frederiksstaden’s other main artery,<br />

Store Kongensgade, with its blend of design<br />

boutiques and foodie temptations, including<br />

restaurant noma co-founder Claus Meyer’s<br />

much-lauded nordic bakery. Indeed you’ll<br />

find that Frederiksstaden has as much to offer<br />

your taste buds as its history offers food for<br />

thought.<br />

cph-tourist.dk<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong> 45

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