0 w C ^ ^.-^• t^J - Rparchives.org

180 A Pdgtimage.waited untU the watevs became move peaceful, countenance. The intelligent and enterprisingbnt even then it was necessary fov the boatmen Euijppean and Amevican dressed in the more conicuse great care in ovdev to have the little boat venient costume of ihe West. The tonvists andcut the waves and not be taken bvoadside, when pilgrims distribute themselves among the yarionsa disaster would cevtamly have occuvved. The hotels and inns in ovdev to enjoy a short breathwaythe waves danced above our heads was fear- ing spell before going farther or look about forful to behold. The women clung to the men and conveyances to transport them to .Jerusalem. Atthe men clung to the boat, while heve and theve a little distance fvom Jaffa lies the plain ofone was leaning ovev the gunale with pallid Shavon, wheve gvew the lovely vose. It is spavsebvowand open mouth, as though he would pene- ly settled in these days, and, -with the neighboriratethe mysteries of the deep vegavcUess of con- ing hills, forms the plains of .Indah. Althoughsequences. Sometimes wben it is impossible for the soU is cultivated to a very limited extent, yetboats to make the landing the boatmen take the it seems capable of prodncing a fairly good yield.passengevs on theiv backs and wade to shove It is only heve and there that the eye rests onwith them; but by taking advantage of the calm some modest plantation in whose centve stands abetween bveakevs -n^e reached the shove and land- village which pvesents anything but a pleasinged in safety. aspect. The houses ave low—move hovels—Although Jaffa is situated almost on the bor- joined togetbev fov mutual support, bnilt of smallders of the immense desert that separates PaleS- stones, daubed with mud and covered with claytine from Africa, the air is embalmed with the roofs, and usually consist of one apartment which,fragrance of many flowers. In the month of out of the kindness of the owner's heart and a dueMarch the orange tvees ave in bloom and nothing vegavd fov the thievish pvopensities of his neighcanbe more enchanting than to see an orange bor, serves as a shelter for his animals and poulgrovewith its golden fruit, silver flowers and try as well as for his family. To every villagerich green foliage, while every breeze that stirs belongs a gang of vicious curs that make theirthe trees comes laden with perfume.presence known by rushing out pell-mell in aThe scene is further animated by the strange body and yelping and snarling at the passers by.and picturesque costumes, both of inhabitants The inhabitants ave fovlovn looking cveatures—and travelers, Here is the Bedawy with a loose ragged and filthy. Y'omen, unbecominglywoolen mantle ihvown ovev his ,shouldevs, a black dvessed and with unkempt haiv, sitting about inkerchief tied on his head with a vope, and hang- the sunshine, some engaged in spinning, othereIng loosely ovev his neck and fovehead, and pev- like monkeys, seavching fov parasites' in the headshaps a pair of broad coarse sandals on his feet or of their chUdven. Ragged m-chins ruuning afterstack in his belt, and armed with an old flint-the conveyance, begging from the tourists andlock gun of pecuhar workmanship. The shrewd singing to them in vough dogs-evel,Armenian wearing a large robe of blue and " Atiny buksheesh, ya hajiywhite. The savage looking Russian peasant, of Rowwihn Salim, ya vubby,"whom the pvevaricating Turk stands in whole- which, being interiM'eted, siu-uifiessome awe, clothed in flowing garments of coarse « Give me some money, 0 pUgvim;linsey-wolsey matevial, Heve is the ubiquitous Send him safely, 0 my Lovd,"Jew, also, fvom evevy pavt of the globe, adovned The iiasseiigevs often amuse themselves byWith the habilaments of all the Worid, charactev- throwing them pennies to see the scramble forized only by certain unmistakable peculiarities of them. Occasionally a penny is tossed well to