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Catalogue Growing Guide - Taylors Clematis

Catalogue Growing Guide - Taylors Clematis

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2<br />

Introduction<br />

<strong>Taylors</strong> nurseries was established in 1982 and is a family<br />

run business. About sixteen years ago we developed a<br />

specialist interest in clematis and since that time we have<br />

collected approximately 400 different varieties. Plants may<br />

be purchased either from the nursery, by appointment, via<br />

mail order, at various flower shows which we attend or on<br />

our website. Most of the photographs in this catalogue<br />

were taken by us on our nursery. We hope you enjoy our<br />

catalogue, Chris & Suzy.<br />

Planting<br />

Prepare the site by digging a hole 18” square and at least<br />

One of our growing tunnels<br />

18” deep. Break up the soil at the base of the hole and dig<br />

in a handful of bone meal. Soak your plant in a bucket of<br />

water for twenty minutes then remove the pot. Place your plant in the hole so that the top of the root ball<br />

is about 5” below ground level, snipping off lower leaves, then backfill with a mixture of peat/compost<br />

and garden soil. If your soil dries out quickly or your plant is in a position where it receives very little<br />

water, place an open ended pipe (About 1-2” diameter) in the planting hole, one end close to the rootball<br />

the other just above ground level. By adopting this procedure water can be conveyed to the plants roots<br />

where it is most needed in times of drought.<br />

<strong>Clematis</strong> Wilt<br />

Healthy plants should not get clematis wilt. Treat infection by drenching with a suitable systemic copper<br />

based fungicide. Please read manufacturers instructions carefully before handling these products. If a plant<br />

develops wilt, cut the stem back to below the wilted section, burn or destroy all wilted growth. Water and<br />

feed normally after growth restarts. <strong>Clematis</strong> wilt generally can only affect large flowering varieties.<br />

Pruning<br />

Some people like to prune their newly planted clematis hard to 12” the first February/ March after<br />

planting. This is to encourage a strong bushy plant. <strong>Clematis</strong> that are already multi-stemmed may be left,<br />

especially early flowering types and evergreens.<br />

GROUP ONE (G1) - NO PRUNING<br />

These are varieties which flower on the previous seasons growth, they all flower early in the season.<br />

They include alpinas, macropetalas, montanas, koreanas and the evergreens. No pruning is required<br />

other than removing any dead or excessive growth immediately after flowering (if need be). Pruning<br />

these types at any other time may result in no or fewer flowers.<br />

GROUP TWO (G2) - PRUNE LIGHT<br />

This group consists of all early large flowered hybrids, including double and semi-double varieties. The<br />

main flowering period is May to June. When this period is over at the end of June you may give your<br />

clematis a prune, possibly a third to half of the plant pruned back or as much as you think is necessary<br />

to keep it looking neat and tidy. Then start to feed again with a high potash fertilizer in accordance<br />

with the manufacturers instructions. This will encourage new growth and more flowers for August and<br />

September time. Then in February or March prune lightly to the first pair of strong buds and cut out<br />

any dead or weak stems. Try to leave some stems at different heights.<br />

GROUP THREE (G3) - PRUNE HARD<br />

Medium sized flowers that flower after June, viticellas, texensis, herbaceous and tanguticas all fall into this<br />

group. These produce flowers on the current seasons growth and should be reduced to two strong leaf<br />

buds in February/March, this will normally be 12-18” from the ground. Failure to prune these varieties<br />

may result in your plant becoming bare of leaves and flowers near the base.<br />

To order Telephone: 01302 700716 or order online www.taylorsclematis.co.uk

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