Hair Care - DermaAmin

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Normal hair shampoos are designed to thoroughly cleanse the scalp and hair in persons with virgin hair and moderate sebum production. Men mainly fall into this category, although the fastest growing segment of hair dye sales is among young men! Normal hair shampoos use lauryl sulfate as the primary detergent, providing good sebum removal and minimal conditioning. Dry hair shampoo Dry hair shampoos provide mild cleansing and good conditioning. Some companies recommend the same product for dry hair and damaged hair. These products are excellent for mature persons and those who wish to shampoo daily. They reduce static electricity and increase manageability in fine hair; however, some products provide too much conditioning, which may result in limp hair. Dry hair shampoos may also cleanse so poorly that conditioner can build up on the hair shaft. This condition has been labeled as the ‘greasies’ in popular advertising and may account for the observation that hair sometimes has more body after using a different shampoo. Damaged hair shampoo Damaged hair shampoos are intended for hair that has been chemically treated with permanent hair colors, hair bleaching agents, permanent waving solutions or hair straighteners. Hair can also be damaged physically by overcleansing, excessive use of heated styling devices and vigorous brushing or combing. Longer hair is more likely to be damaged than shorter hair since it undergoes a natural process known as ‘weathering’, whereby the cuticular scales are decreased in number from the proximal to distal hair shaft (Figure 2.4). As mentioned previously, damaged hair shampoos may be identical to dry hair shampoos or may contain mild detergents and increased conditioners. Hydrolyzed animal protein is the superior conditioner for damaged hair since it can minimally penetrate the shaft and temporarily plug surface defects, resulting in hair with a smoother feel and more shine. The protein can also temporarily Figure 2.4 Hair care 36
Hair grooming 37 A weathered hair shaft. mend split ends (Figure 2.5). It is important that the protein is hydrolyzed, as larger protein molecules cannot penetrate the hair shaft. Oily hair shampoo Oily hair shampoos have excellent cleansing and minimal conditioning properties. They may use lauryl sulfate or sulfosuccinate detergents and are intended for adolescents with oily hair or persons who have extremely dirty hair. They can be drying to the hair shaft if used daily. Following an oily hair shampoo with use of a heavy conditioner is selfdefeating. Everyday shampoo Everyday shampoos are designed with minimal cleansing properties, since they are intended for everyday or frequent use. They are similar in formulation to dry hair shampoos, with minimal detergency and conditioning. Figure 2.5 An electron micrograph of a split end. Deep cleaning shampoo Deep cleaning shampoos are similar to oily hair shampoos in that they are formulated with surfactants selected for their excellent sebum removal qualities. These shampoos contain no conditioning agents and are designed to be used once weekly by persons who use large amounts of hairspray, styling gels, and hair waxes for grooming (see Chapter 3). Baby shampoo
Page 2: Hair Care
Page 5 and 6: © 2005 Taylor & Francis, an imprin
Page 8: Foreword Patients expect their derm
Page 12 and 13: Contents Foreword vii Acknowledgeme
Page 15 and 16: 1 Hair physiology HAIR STRUCTURE AN
Page 17 and 18: Figure 1.2 Hair physiology 3 The ap
Page 19 and 20: Figure 1.4 Hair physiology 5 The ap
Page 21 and 22: Figure 1.6 The layers of the hair s
Page 23 and 24: Hair physiology 9 original length.
Page 25 and 26: Hair physiology 11 Figure 1.13 Afri
Page 27 and 28: Hair physiology 13 are short. These
Page 29 and 30: Hair physiology 15 Blond 140,000 Br
Page 31 and 32: Hair physiology 17 a club-shaped pr
Page 33 and 34: Hair physiology 19 rapid fluctuatio
Page 35 and 36: Hair physiology 21 1. Trichorrhexis
Page 37: Hair physiology 23 42. Olsen EA, De
Page 40 and 41: Hair care 26 (b) Shampoo is foamed
Page 42 and 43: Figure 2.2 Hair care 28 Proper Sham
Page 44 and 45: Shampoos function by employing dete
Page 46 and 47: Hair care 32 The laureth sulfates a
Page 48 and 49: Hair care 34 film can also form on
Page 52 and 53: Hair care 38 Baby shampoos are noni
Page 54 and 55: Hair care 40 shampoo-induced allerg
Page 56 and 57: Hair care 42 Improved flexibility L
Page 58 and 59: • Lipids • Quaternaries • Pol
Page 60 and 61: Hair care 46 more protein that will
Page 62 and 63: Figure 2.8 Hair care 48 A hot oil t
Page 64 and 65: Hair care 50 HAIR DRYING We have di
Page 66 and 67: Figure 2.11 Hand-held hairdryer tec
Page 68 and 69: Figure 2.15 Hair care 54 Round brus
Page 70 and 71: Figure 2.19 Detangling comb. Figure
Page 72 and 73: Hair care 58 both fracture the hair
Page 74 and 75: Figure 2.27 Stiff bristle brushes f
Page 76 and 77: Figure 2.30 A variety of hair-cutti
Page 78 and 79: Figure 2.36 Hair care 64 Razor blad
Page 80 and 81: Hair care 66 (b) Hair held tightly
Page 82 and 83: (d) Bangs are cut with hair twisted
Page 84 and 85: Hair care 70
Page 86 and 87: Hair care 72 Black individuals with
Page 88 and 89: Hair care 74 Nonelectric styling im
Page 90 and 91: Hair care 76 more hair breakage as
Page 92 and 93: Figure 2.50 Smooth rollers. Figure
Page 94 and 95: of hydrogen bonds and salt linkages
Page 96 and 97: Figure 2.57 Hair care 82 An example
Page 98 and 99: Hair care 84 34. Okamoto M, Yakawa
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Hair care 86 95. Slepyan AH. Tracti
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Hairstyling gel Clear gel polymer R
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Figure 3.4 Hair care 90 An electron
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Figure 3.6 Hair care 92 An electron
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Hair care 94 An example of a commer
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Hair care 96 OIL SHEEN SPRAY Hairsp
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Hair care 98 18. Plewig G, Fulton J
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Hair care 100 Tremendous color vari
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Figure 4.3 Hair care 102 Pheomelani
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Semipermanent: vegetable Semiperman
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Hair care 106 effect in the recent
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Hair care 108 is dismayed with the
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Figure 4.10 Hair care 110 The appea
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Hair care 112 more resistant to sha
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Hair care 114 Chemistry Permanent h
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Hair care 116 Nevertheless, some dy
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Figure 4.15 Hair care 118 The compl
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Figure 4.22 Hair care 122 The hair
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Hair care 124 The blond permanent h
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Figure 4.29 The red permanent hair
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Hair care 128 The multicolored stra
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Figure 4.38 Hair care 130 Brown hai
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Two-step bleaching is actually a co
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Figure 4.41 A mild hair dye reactio
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Hair care 138 of eumelanin and pheo
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5 Permanent hair curling The idea o
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Permanent hair curling 143 2. Proce
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Permanent hair curling 145 Figure 5
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Permanent hair curling 147 mandrels
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Permanent hair curling 151 Once the
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Table 5.1 Permanent waving lotion i
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Permanent hair curling 157 companie
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Permanent hair curling 159 A tight
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produce the curl is known as the
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Permanent hair curling 163 Home per
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Permanent hair curling 165 has been
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Permanent hair curling 167 REFERENC
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6 Permanent hair straightening Hair
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sodium hydroxide. This prevents sca
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Permanent hair straightening 173 Mi
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Permanent hair straightening 175 4.
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Permanent hair straightening 177 Fi
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Permanent hair straightening 181 ha
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Panthenol Sodium PCA Cetearyl alcoh
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Permanent hair straightening 187 ma
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7 Cosmetic-induced hair loss Dermat
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Cosmetic-induced hair loss 191 Figu
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Cosmetic-induced hair loss 193 In a
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Cosmetic-induced hair loss 195 Figu
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Cosmetic-induced hair loss 197 The
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Cosmetic-induced hair loss 199 Hair
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8 Methods for camouflaging hair los
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ase Cascades Curled locks of hair o
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Methods for camouflaging hair loss
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shaving legs, axilla, groin Dry sha
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Hair care 228 difficulty achieving
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Hair care 230 2. Select a quality l
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Hair care 232 2. Be sure that the h
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Figure 9.5 Hair care 234 A male fac
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Hair care 236 laser hair removal, f
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Hair care 238 A variety of needle d
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10 Tips to maintain healthy hair Is
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Hair care 242 comb. For this reason
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Figure 10.4 Hair care 244 Freshly s
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Hair care 246 within the hair shaft
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Figure 10.7 Hair care 248 Use of a
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Hair care 250 In short, one of the
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Hair care 252 nonliving. (b) Patien
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12 Summary This text has pictoriall
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pomades 80-81 shampoos 34 bleaching
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glyceryl monothioglycolate 139 grad
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negroid hair see Black persons’ h
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sodium hydroxide in hair straighten
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