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Japan Storm - Columbia College - Columbia University

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JAPAN AFTER THE STORM COLUMBIA COLLEGE TODAY<br />

eral times, Hayes says, not reporting elevated radiation in certain<br />

areas and in the food supply. “They released information late —<br />

there was a lot of fumbling around,” she says. “There was an aura<br />

of calm, but news stories popped up that upset people.” She cites<br />

the example of the announcement that school lunches contained<br />

potentially radioactive produce from Fukushima; an ensuing argument<br />

that the country needed to support the people and farms<br />

of that region; and a rebuttal that that couldn’t involve endangering<br />

the health of the nation’s children.<br />

Unusual for <strong>Japan</strong>, anti-nuclear energy protests were held<br />

nearly every weekend in Tokyo. “Before, I didn’t even think<br />

about how electricity was produced — I assumed <strong>Japan</strong> was very<br />

environmentally conscious,” Hayes says. “Only afterward did<br />

we find out how vulnerable the country was.”<br />

Hayes’ interest in <strong>Japan</strong> stems from a two-week visit when<br />

she was in high school and stayed with a host family in<br />

Fukuoka, the sister city of her hometown of Atlanta. Entranced<br />

by the country’s history and its pop culture exports, she<br />

knew she wanted to learn <strong>Japan</strong>ese and live there after college.<br />

She was drawn to <strong>Columbia</strong> by its stellar East Asian studies<br />

program and the legacy of scholars such as Ivan Morris and Edward<br />

Seidensticker ’47 GSAS. She started taking <strong>Japan</strong>ese language<br />

classes her first year and became active in the <strong>Japan</strong> Club<br />

(now the <strong>Columbia</strong> <strong>Japan</strong> Society), of which she became v.p. in<br />

her senior year. “It was awesome to be in a city with <strong>Japan</strong>ese<br />

speakers and <strong>Japan</strong>ese cultural events I could attend regularly,”<br />

Hayes says. She adds that there also were plenty of <strong>Japan</strong>-related<br />

events on campus, such as the annual spring Matsuri festival<br />

on Low Plaza, with its noodle-eating contest, mock wrestling in<br />

inflatable sumo suits and thunderous taiko drum performances.<br />

For her junior year abroad, Hayes studied in a yearlong program<br />

run by the Kyoto Consortium for <strong>Japan</strong>ese Studies and<br />

lived with a local host family.<br />

Following graduation, she joined the <strong>Japan</strong>ese Exchange and<br />

Teaching (JET) program, which places recent college graduates<br />

from around the world in schools or government offices. Hayes<br />

was posted as coordinator of international relations at Nagano<br />

City Hall.<br />

In that job, she acted as an interpreter for local foreign residents<br />

who didn’t speak <strong>Japan</strong>ese, helped plan cross-cultural<br />

events and arranged visits for Americans from Nagano’s sister<br />

city of Clearwater, Fla. She wrote an essay on the importance of<br />

international exchange that won her a local contest to run with<br />

the Olympic torch when it passed through Nagano in 2008 on its<br />

way to the summer games in Beijing. (Many people asked her,<br />

“Are you training?” “You walk briskly and wave,” she says. “It<br />

wasn’t a marathon or anything.”)<br />

“She’s about as smart as they come. When we met, I was pretty<br />

blown away by her <strong>Japan</strong>ese ability,” says Grant Peterson, a<br />

fellow American working in Nagano. “Then after seeing her belt<br />

out a beautiful song at a mutual friend’s wedding, and seeing her<br />

perform a dance routine at an international event, I was amazed<br />

to keep finding all of these hidden talents Ashley possessed.”<br />

Hayes was a karaoke singer, “then when I went to <strong>Japan</strong>, all of a<br />

sudden people started asking me to sing for real!” she says. “I’ve<br />

actually sung at three weddings now courtesy of my karaoke<br />

performances — and I’ve also danced in public when asked to.<br />

I guess I don’t like to let people down. If someone asks me to do<br />

something, I try to rise to the occasion.”<br />

In Nagano, Hayes lived in a traditional apartment with tatami<br />

rooms and sliding doors — and no central heating, which the<br />

Southerner never did get used to. Although she initially questioned<br />

whether Nagano, a city of 381,000 in a largely agrarian<br />

region, was exciting enough for someone who grew up in East<br />

Atlanta and went to college in New York, Hayes came to love<br />

apple-picking, riding her bicycle around town and appreciating<br />

locally grown food. “Almost everyone had a rice paddy or a vegetable<br />

garden,” she says. “It wasn’t just Old MacDonald on the<br />

farm, it was your coworkers.” The <strong>Japan</strong>ese reverence for nature,<br />

she says, gave her a new perspective on rural living.<br />

Entranced by the country’s history and its<br />

pop culture exports, Hayes knew she wanted to learn<br />

<strong>Japan</strong>ese and live there after college.<br />

WINTER 2011–12<br />

36<br />

After four years working in Nagano in the JET program<br />

(which allows renewals up to five years), Hayes decided<br />

to move to Tokyo, which she’d always wanted to<br />

experience. She started work at the translation agency<br />

in summer 2010. While she had thought she craved urban living<br />

again, she says the 9–5 grind left her feeling more like a beleaguered<br />

worker bee: “You get on a very cramped train and work<br />

all day and take the train home. People on the train during rush<br />

hour disregard all concepts of personal space. People think of the<br />

<strong>Japan</strong>ese as very polite and noble, but they also push you and jab<br />

you and step on you.”<br />

Following the chaos and uncertainty of the earthquake and<br />

its aftermath, Hayes eventually decided to return to the United<br />

States. She arrived in Atlanta in August, and is moving to San<br />

Antonio, Texas, to teach high school ESL as part of Teach for<br />

America. To further her own language abilities, she is studying<br />

Chinese and Spanish.<br />

“I loved living in <strong>Japan</strong> and still love <strong>Japan</strong> and would consider<br />

living there again,” she says. She reads <strong>Japan</strong>ese newspapers<br />

and blogs every day, and plans to get a rice cooker to try to<br />

make rice the same as it is in <strong>Japan</strong>. Her boyfriend, who won’t<br />

finish undergraduate studies until 2014, might come to graduate<br />

school here. Hayes adds: “I’d like to be one of these Americans<br />

like Donald Keene [’42, ’49 GSAS; see feature in this issue] who’s<br />

a bridge between <strong>Japan</strong> and America.”<br />

Shira Boss ’93, ’97J, ’98 SIPA is a contributing writer to CCT. Her<br />

most recent feature was a profile of environmental lawyer Michael<br />

Gerrard ’72, in the May/June 2011 issue.

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