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just 4TextilesISSUE 1 ■ SUMMER 2003inside…Creative Textiles– Laminate and StitchNew Developments– Wearable ComputingUsing ICT:What Software?– Capturing Clipartwith PSP 4/7 and What’sComing in Future IssuesIndustrial Applications– moving away frommass productionKS 4 CourseworkResources – TechnicalSpecification SheetWorksheets for TTProduct Design– TrainersDirect Digital PrintingSmart Clothes!Raising Standards– presenting work atAS levelSfE 1 Portland Square Bristol BS2 8RRTel: 0117 983 8800FaX: 0117 983 8890E-mail: mail@sfe.co.ukWebsite: www.sfe.co.ukNanotechnology and‘wearable computers’are making our clothesreally smart!

Welcomejust 4TextilesCONTENTS●FOREWORD■ by Geoff HancockFOREWORDWelcome to this first edition ofJust 4 Textiles, a national4Creative Textiles– Laminate and Stitch■ by Barbara Lawlermagazine dedicated solely tosupporting textiles teachers withSmart Materials– Nanotechnology6real pupils in real classrooms.I am delighted to be able to offer this exciting newmagazine to you; produced by Barbara Lawler, atextiles teacher and known to many of you through9New from SfE– Course PreviewProduct DevelopmentWelcome to this first issue of Just4 Textiles. I was really excitedwhen SfE asked to write thismagazine and I hope that you will beextend your imaginationand to capitalise on whatyou know already.Hopefully all this can beinexpensive, you probablyalready have thenecessary equipment andit is virtually foolproof.her ICT and industrial production national trainingcourses. A key figure, Barbara works very closelywith SfE, DATA and publishers such as Heinemannto provide stimulating resources for textiles teachers.New Developments– Wearable Computing10just as excited to read it.The changes in TextilesTechnology come so thickI enjoy presenting SfEcourses and meeting aachieved with the minimumamount of effort, as I knowonly too well how stressfulteaching can be and theThis notion of a built-insuccess factor is veryimportant in my teachingThe challenges facing textiles teachers are many andvaried. Through these practical and informative12Using ICT – WhatSoftware? Coming inFuture Issuesand fast that I find it isdifficult to keep up withthem, let alone pass thatvariety of teachers fromdifferent parts of thecountry. In discussionslast thing anyone wants isanother initiative!and I always try toprepare resources whichwill have this as an endmagazines we aim to provide you with resources andsupport that you can use directly with your pupils.This first magazine starts to deal with a number ofthe new developments in the subject. As each issuedevelops we will provide exemplar materials,teaching ideas and support for Key Stage three, fourand five lessons. Each issue builds into a completeresource, keeping you up to date and at the forefrontof change in the subject.Barbara and myself are very keen to offer practicalsupport and guidance to magazine subscribers, andto receive comments and requirements for futureissues. As you will no doubt understand, producinga new magazine takes an enormous amount ofeffort. We hope that it will be successful in providingthe support you all need.Please contact Barbara directly by e-mail atKS 4 CourseworkResourses – TechnicalSpecification Sheet14Worksheets for TTProduct Design –Trainers18Printing Technology– Direct DigitalPrinting13Using ICT – WhatSoftware? CapturingClipart with PSP 4/717Industrial Applications– Moving Away fromMass Production22information onto pupils:this magazine is focusedon keeping you abreast ofnew developments, andoffering pupil-friendly waysof presenting them, bycreating classroomresources and using theinternet for research.over coffee, I found thatmany teachers were facingthe same problems andalthough I don’t claim tohave all the answers, I canoffer new ways to refocuson the materials. My mainaims for the series thenare to widen your horizons,THIS MAGAZINE ISFOCUSED ON KEEPING YOUABREAST OF NEWDEVELOPMENTS, ANDOFFERING PUPIL-FRIENDLYWAYS OF PRESENTING THEM,BY CREATING CLASSROOMI will always aim to provideactivities which arefinancially viable, andcurriculum-focussed, andthe article on page 4 is anexample. It may seemstrange in the world ofTextiles Technology towrite about decorating thesurface of a fabric. I didwonder myself, originally,at its relevance in today’scurriculum, but thenremembered that one ofmy aims as a teacher wasto provide my pupils withthe means to create aquality-finished product.One way to do this is toresult. Examples ofthese resources willfeature in future issues ofthis magazine.I would like to develop thismagazine to suit yourneeds and attempt to dealwith some of the problemsthat face us all in theclassroom. Anysuggestions or requestsfor topics that you wouldlike to cover will be verywelcome. Please write tome, care of SfE, or emailme directly atb.lawler@ndirect.co.uk.b.lawler@ndirect.co.uk or myself at Just4Textiles,SfE limited, 1 Portland Square, Bristol, BS2 8RR.26Raising Standards– Presenting Workat AS LevelRESOURCES AND USING THEINTERNET FOR RESEARCH.make sure the processeshave a built-in successfactor. The materials usedfor laminating are2just 4Textiles ■ ISSUE 1 SUMMER 20033

CREATIVE TEXTILES ●●CREATIVE TEXTILESYou have probably used a laminator to produce a cover for a booklet orprotect a favourite image – but have you ever used it to decorate thesurface of a fabric?The laminating pouchescan be cut to any size andall you need to rememberis which is the outside.Place one piece of thelaminating pouch on theironing board and arrangeyour materials on top.Cover with the other piece(PIC B).DETHIS WAS A STARTER EXERCISE FORAS PRODUCT DESIGN – SOMETHINGTHAT PUPILS COULD DO JUST TOEASE THEM INTO THE PROGRAMMEAND YET LOOK IMPRESSIVE WHENTHE MODERATOR COMES!This is the standard typeof laminator that will befound now in most schools– but the laminatingpouches themselves canbe used successfully toenclose a variety of items,with any standard iron.Collect together a range of materials to be laminated– these can be anything from paper to fabrics to lace– although bulky items are not too successful. (A)ACThe laminating pouchshould then be coveredwith a clean piece offabric and ironed withoutusing steam (PIC C).BTop LayerIf the laminate is notcovered it will wrinkle –but some pupils actuallywanted to create thiseffect! (PIC D)Take care when handling,as the laminate is hot.When cool it can bestitched with decorativestitches before or afterapplying it to products.FGHThis laminate containedeverything from goldfringing, gold braid totinsel cut from Christmasdecorations (PIC E).It was then used todecorate a simplecontainer (PIC F).It was decorated withembroidery stitchesafter applying it to aproduct (PIC G).This laminate wasapplied to a pocket ona simple pencil caseand the embroiderywas worked after it wasattached to the pocketfabric. The pocket wasthen attached to theproduct (PIC H).A laminate was used todecorate the cover forthis sketchbook (PIC I).These examples formpart of a Year 8 focusedpractical task, whichcentres on decoratingthe surface of a fabricand then manufacturinga simple container.Pupils are encouragedto bring in materialsfrom home, which theycould laminate to form adecorative surface(PICS J, K).IJKBottom LayerMaterials are placed inbetween two layers4just 4Textiles ■ ISSUE 1 SUMMER 2003just 4Textiles ■ ISSUE 1 SUMMER 20035

SMART MATERIALS ●● SMART MATERIALSNANOTECHNOLOGYIf you think Nanotechnology is science fiction or something to do with midgetsubmarines in your bloodstream and is nothing to do with Textiles Technology– think again! Nanotechnology is already being applied to textiles, to permanentlyadd desirable features without losing softness, durability or breatheability.What isnanotechnology?Nanotechnology is oftencalled the science of thesmall. It is the science ofmanipulating particles atthe molecular level, inorder to form newcompounds or makechanges to the existingsubstances.Working at the molecularlevel ensures that thenanoparticles are firmlyand permanently attachedto the fibres, addingproperties to all differentkinds of natural andmanufactured textiles,without changing the lookor feel of the fabric.Leading the field inapplying the science ofnanotech-nology to textilesis Nano-Tex.The first product to bedeveloped was Nano-Care fabric technology,which allows cotton fabricsto repel water and oil.Nano-CareA cotton fibre resembles acylinder in shape and on anano scale it’s probably thesize of a tree trunk.Scientists graft lots of littlehairs onto the cotton fibre,until it creates a peach fuzzeffect. These are known asnano-whiskers and are builtup atom-by-atom.Nano-whiskers act like acushion – courtesy ofNano-TexThe fuzz on the fibres ispermanent and sustainablethroughout the life of thefabric and as it changes thefabric itself, it can’t wash orwear off. The advancedperformance is durablethrough multiple washes butit does not alter the fabric’soriginal handle, unlike manytraditional coatings. It isalso undetectable, exceptwhen seen under ahigh-power microscope.How does it work?The fuzz creates a cushionof air around the fibres sowhen a liquid hits the fabricit beads up on the cushionand rolls off. If force isapplied to the liquid, itpasses through the fabricbut is not absorbed by thefibres – so perspiration, forinstance, can still bewicked away from the body.NANOTECHNOLOGY – UNDETECHTABLE, EXCEPT WHEN SEENUNDER A HIGH-POWER MICROSCOPE.Nanoparticles are extremely small and nanotechnology literally refers to any technology, done on a nanometerscale – a nanometre being one billionth of a metre.Nano-TouchNano-Touch enhancedfabrics have a permanentlygrafted, outer layer ofcotton-like properties,around a synthetic core.Through the permanentattachment of a cotton-likewrap, around a syntheticcore, Nano-Touchcombines cotton’straditional features with thedesired performancecharacteristics of syntheticfabrics, such as strength,durability, colourfastnessand resistance to wrinkles.Nano-DryNano-Dry fabrictechnology provideswickability and moistureabsorptionproperties tonylon and polyesterfabrics. One of theapplications for theseNano-Dry fabrics is highperformanceouterwear.Continued overleaf…Nano-Touch – courtesy of Nano-TexHAND WHITE BLOOD CELL DNA10 centimetres 1 centimetre 1 millimeter 100 microns 10 microns 1 micron 100 nanometres 10 nanometres 1 nanometreNano-Dry courtesy of Nano-Tex6just 4Textiles ■ ISSUE 1 SUMMER 2003just 4Textiles ■ ISSUE 1 SUMMER 20037

SMART MATERIALS ●● NEW FROM SFE: COURSE PREVIEWContinued from previous page…NANOTECHNOLOGYNew from SfE – Course PreviewProduct DevelopmentNano-PelNano-Pelfabrictechnology adds superiorstain repellency to fabricsfor interiors, upholsteryand corporate officeenvironments.Science Fiction?No – you can actually buyclothing containingnanofibres for enhancedstain resistance on yourlocal high street and Leejeans have alreadydeveloped a range ofkhakis for children, usingNano-Care.Nano-Pel courtesy of Nano-TexHow to Plan and Deliver a Highly Effective Key Stage ThreeCourse in Textiles Technology: Meeting the Requirementsof the New KS3 StrategyThe FuturePossible militaryapplications for Nano-Texfabrics include: a newgeneration of combatuniforms using nanofibres.The uniforms will be able tolet air through, whileblocking toxins producedfrom chemical andbiological weapons. It willeven be possible toproduce a smart combatuniform for the soldier of thefuture, which encompasseswearable computing withnano-engineered fibres.The ability to applynanotechnology in bothfabric and garment form,to woven and knit fabrics,will open up endlesspossibilities for theenhancement of futuretextiles products.THE SMART UNIFORM WILL MAKE USE OFEMBEDDED SENSORS AND TINY COMPUTERSTHAT WILL STOP BULLETS, MONITOR VITALSIGNS AND UNDERGO CHAMELEON-LIKECAMOUFLAGE CHANGES.NanotechnologyGlossaryMonomer. A singlemolecule that has theability to combine withidentical or similarmolecules.Nano. Derived from theGreek word for small.Used to indicate onebillionth or 10-9 power.Since an atom is roughlyten nanometers, theterm has come to beapplied to the generalstudy of molecular andatomic particles.Nanotechnology. Theapplication of science todeveloping new materialsand processes bymanipulating molecularand atomic particles.Polymer. A chain ofmany monomers■ Thursday 12 June 2003 London■ Wednesday 25 June 2003 Leeds■ Monday 07 July 2003 Birmingham■ Friday 11 July 2003 LondonHow to be a Really Effective Teacher of Textiles: ManagingPupils, Raising Attainment and Accelerating Learning■ Monday 09 June 2003 London■ Tuesday 17 June 2003 Birmingham■ Friday 20 June 2003 Manchester■ Friday 04 July 2003 LondonHow to Maximise Examination Success in GCSE TextilesTechnology Through the Successful Management ofCoursework, Building in Industrial Processes, New andSmart Fibres and ICT■ Friday 14 November 2003 London■ Tuesday 25 November 2003 Leeds■ Wednesday 10 December 2003 Birmingham■ Thursday 15 January 2004 LondonFor more details on the above, or any of our courses, visit www.sfe.co.uk or telephone0117 983 8800.8just 4Textiles ■ ISSUE 1 SUMMER 2003just 4Textiles ■ ISSUE 1 SUMMER 20039

NEW DEVELOPMENTS ●●NEW DEVELOPMENTSWearable ComputingImagine a world where people are encased in an individual bodynet, a wireless,apparel-based computer network that lets them make phone calls, checke-mail, watch TV, listen to music and pay bills as they walk down the street.BY 2010 WE'LL ROUTINELY WEAR PCS THAT ARESO SMALL THAT WE WON'T BE ABLE TO SEE THEM.This article describes howmanufacturers are workingto combine conventionalsewing and electronicstechniques with a newrange of fabrics, to createinteractive, digital clothing.Wearable ComputingA wearable computer is acomputer that is:■ Always with the user■ Is comfortable andeasy to keep and use■ Is as unobtrusive asclothing.The most obvious featureof a wearable computer isthat it can be used whileworking or movingaround. This distinguisheswearable computers fromdesktop and laptopcomputers and fromPDA-devices. Wearablecomputing may beseen as the result of adesign philosophy, thatintegrates embeddedcomputation and sensinginto everyday life, to giveusers continuous accessto the capabilities ofpersonal computing.Wearable computers haveWEARABLE COMPUTERS CANNOW MERGE SEAMLESSLY INTOORDINARY CLOTHING. IT ISNOW POSSIBLE TO INTRODUCEDURABLE, FLEXIBLE AND EVENWASHABLE MULTILAYERELECTRONIC CIRCUITS INTOTEXTILES PRODUCTS BY USINGCONDUCTIVE YARNS.different purposes; to helpfield workers in tasks thatrequire computation orcommunication and toextend human capabilities.The first line ofdevelopment is driven bypractical needs to copewith complex tasks suchas maintenance orassembly of complicatedappliances or informationgathering. In many cases,it is important that the usercan move around freelyand use both hands for themain task. Hands-freeoperation is important,especially in military andindustrial applications.The other trend seespart of the user. Thecomputer can:■■■Enhance the user’sawareness by givingextra information abouttheir environmentGive the user newsenses such as nightvision or radar.Help to organize andmemorize thingsApplications forWearable ComputingThe development ofconductive yarns opensup the opportunity for anentire computerisedclothing industry. In thenext decade, we are likelyto see a wide range ofdigital apparel enter theconsumer market. Severalexploring the possibility ofputting us in designercomputerised clothing,including IBM, Levi,Philips, Nike andSensaTex. In Europe, Leviis already test marketingthe musical jacketdeveloped by the MITMedia Lab.Other developmentsinclude:■ A wearable, wireless,broadband Internetdevice with GPS(Global PositioningSystem)■ Digital photographyand video capturecapabilities, that canbe controlled by voice,pen or handheldkeyboard input;■ Smart badges, whichallow for the exchangeof contact informationthrough infraredtechnology;■ Glasses that will allowfor discreet Web-surfing■ A necklace with a builtinvoice recorder thatallows the wearer todictate e-mail messages.Most of the wearableuse of what is known as aPersonal Area Network orPAN. The Personal AreaNetwork provides thebackbone for wearablecomputing. It allows thetransport of data, powerand control signals withinthe user’s personal space.Modular devices withfunctions shared bydifferent applications,such as mobile phones orMP3 players, can behooked up to the PersonalArea Network.The smart badge isdesigned for aiding thecommunication andnetworking that occurs atconferences. Using datarecovered from an infraredelectronic conferencebadge, the systemautomatically createsprivate, personalized webpages documenting theuser’s experiences duringthe conference.In the 1960s, enormouscomputers were kept inclean rooms behind glass.The Smart Badge –courtesy of Charmed TechToday they're tiny enoughto drop in a pocket. "By2010 we'll routinely wearPCs that are so small thatwe won't be able to seethem," predicts RayKurzweil, author of TheWearable computingAge of Spiritual Machines:– Seven of Nine fromWhen Computers ExceedStar TrekHuman Intelligence.SCIENCE FICTION? NO, SCIENCE FACT.Chipmaker Infineon Technologies is weaving itsproducts into an entirely new fashion industry:high-tech textiles. The Munich-based companyshowed off new prototype wearable chips that canbe sewn directly into clothing and other textiles.Infineon's Emerging Technologies Group hasdeveloped chips, sensors and packages that allowthe processors to be woven into fabrics. Specialmaterials woven into the fabric are used to connectthe chips and sensors.been developed for twowearable computers as acompanies are alreadyconcepts described makeThe glasses – courtesy of Charmed Tech10just 4Textiles ■ ISSUE 1 SUMMER 2003just 4Textiles ■ ISSUE 1 SUMMER 200311

USING ICT – WHAT SOFTWARE? ●●KS 4 COURSEWORK RESOURCESUsing ICT – What Software?Coming in Future Issues…COURSEWORKRESOURCESKS 4This will be a regular section in Just 4 Textiles and will highlight how graphicssoftware packages can be used in Textiles Technology. There will be tutorials andideas, which will extend ICT skills and enable pupils to produce design ideas witha professional finish. Many of these tutorials and ideas use the shareware packagePaint Shop Pro 4. This is available only on SfE’s Teacher Resource file – Design and ICT.In the first issue:■Build your own clipartlibrary.Coming inFuture Issues:■■■■■■■Using your clipart libraryin design activities.Extension activities forDesign and ICT –producing your ownpattern fills.Using filters to changeimages.Adding backgroundsto scanned imagesand combining images.Producing mood andtrend boards.Improving scannedimages and digitalphotographs.Plus lots more to come!T E C H N I C A L S P E C I F I C A T I O N S H E E T SAtechnicalspecificationsheet is usedin industry as aguideline for theworkforce. Itmeans that allitems produced onthe factory floorhave to bemanufactured tothis specification.This is an example of atechnical specification. Itwas produced on specialsoftware, designed by acompany called Assyst.One Year 11 pupil also dida technical specificationsheet for a CD case. Heproduced his version inthe Microsoft Excelspreadsheet package.Your examination boardwants you to include someindustrial applications inyour work and this wouldbe a good one to use.Don’t forget to say whyyou are doing this!just 4Textiles ■ ISSUE 1 SUMMER 2003just 4Textiles ■ ISSUE 1 SUMMER 200312 13

USING ICT – WHAT SOFTWARE? ●●USING ICT – WHAT SOFTWARE?Capturing Clipart with PSP 4/7It is useful to have a clip art library to hand, because pupils who haven’t got thenecessary design skills can make use of it and extend their ICT skills at thesame time. You could buy a clipart CD-Rom or produce your own, with the onlycost being your time.7.Method 1– Browsing clipart in PSPYou can browse the contents ofPublisher or Word clipart by followingthe steps below. (You will need tohave these programs alreadyinstalled on your PC to do this.)1.2.6.1. Open PSP 4 and then selectfile/open.2. You will need to locate yourOffice files. Theses should be onthe c-drive, in the program files ofa stand-alone machine.If you are working on a networkyou will need to check with yourICT manager/ technician to findout what drive they are installedin and if you can access them.3. With program files selected youneed to locate the MicrosoftOffice program.4. When you have found Office,double click to open it and locatethe clipart folder.5. Open the clipart folder and youshould see the following folders.3. 4.5.8.9.10.11.6. The folder contains a largecollection of clipart. To viewthe clipart in PSP select thebrowse button.7. You will be able to see the imageson the screen. Select maximiseon the top right corner of the boxto enlarge the browse box.8. You can select the images youwant to keep by double clicking.Select a few at a time to speedup the process.9. To save the images, select oneand select file/save as.10. If you want to build up a clipartcollection you should create a newfolder to save the images together.You will also need to call the imagesomething that you will recognise.11. The image should be saved as ajpg as this won’t take up muchroom on the hard disc.14just 4Textiles ■ ISSUE 1 SUMMER 2003 just 4Textiles ■ ISSUE 1 SUMMER 200315

USING ICT – WHAT SOFTWARE? ●●WORKSHEETS FOR TT PRODUCT DESIGNContinued from previous page…Capturing Clipart with PSP 4/7TT PRODUCT DESIGN– TRAINERSMethod 2– Copying from Publisher2.6.TasksSome clipart images are quite small■Design your own trainerand unsuitable for resizing, as theyusing one of thewill be distorted. However imagestemplates above. Thencan be opened in Publisher or Word,sketch your design fromresized and the then pasted into PSP.a different viewpoint1. Open a blank page in Publisher■Why are manufacturersor Word and draw a clipart box.such as Nike and2. Locate the clipart you want touse and it should appear in thebox you have drawn.3. Select the clipart on the page3.Using Office on the Web.Once you get started there will be nostopping you. If pupils need somethingspecial – try the Office on the Web.Photo courtesy of Adidas■Adidas are invitingyou to personalisetheir trainers?Explain the implicationsthat mass customisationthen copy and paste it. The copycan now be resized.4. Select each image in turn andthen select copy. This will copythe image to the Windowsclipboard and it can then bepasted in PSP. This is called a4.Here you will find a large collection ofclipart – which can be pasted, copiedTrainers today are not just used for sporting activitiesand have always been at the cutting edge of fashion.The one size fits all model is out-of-date. Consumersnow want to be seen and treated as individuals and that’swhy the leading trainer manufacturers are inviting you todesign your own – this is mass customisation.has for:– the manufacturer– the consumerscreen capture.5. In PSP select edit/paste as anew image.6. Continue to copy and paste theother images you have resizedfrom Publisher or Word to PSP.Save the images as before.1. 5.and saved using PSP as before.These images were found on theweb and pasted into Word. Theywere then copied to PSP and saved.Coming in Future Issues.■ How to use your clipart library toimprove design work andproduce presentation drawings.■ How to digitally print your clipartonto fabric.■ How to digitise and stitch yourclipart on a CNC sewing machine.16just 4Textiles ■ ISSUE 1 SUMMER 2003 just 4Textiles ■ ISSUE 1 SUMMER 200317

INDUSTRIAL APPLICATIONS ●●INDUSTRIAL APPLICATIONSIndustrial Applications:Moving Away from Mass ProductionMass Customisation can be defined as the mass production of individuallycustomised products and services – volume production with lot sizes ofone. In its more sophisticated form this means meeting each customer’sindividual wants and needs exactly, but at prices comparable to those of standardmass produced goods. The one size fits all model is out-of-date. Consumers nowwant to be seen and treated as individuals; they are better educated and informed;more able and willing to make their own decisions.Mass ProductionThe dominant system ofproduction for large volumemanufacturers during thefirst half of the 20th centurywas mass production – anapproach based onproducing and sellingstandard mass produceditems, exploiting economiesof scale to achieve pricesthat everybody could afford.The major assumptionbeing, that markets werehomogeneous andeverybody had basically thesame wants or needs and afew standard productscould satisfy these. Today,mass production has inmany cases produced anover-supply of very similargoods and, in particular,services. It now seems tobe the right time for masscustomisation to step in toremedy this.Over the past 40 yearssignificant changes haveoccurred in the businessenvironment, for example:■■■■■Increased pace oftechnological changeMore fashionconsciousnessGlobalisation of theeconomyImbalances betweensupply and demand,Fragmentation ofmarketsThese changes have madeit impossible for mostmanufacturing companies toadhere to strict massproduction principles, andmany now seek todifferentiate themselves fromcompetitors on the basis ofcustomer choice andcustomisation capabilities.Mass Customisation:■■■Is set to replace massproductionTailors products to eachindividual consumerSignals the shift from‘This is what I make,please buy it’ to ‘This iswhat I want, pleasemake it.’■Means thatmanufacturers don’thave to guess what tomake and how manyCustomer ServiceClothing retailer Nordstromis a by-word for CustomerService Excellence. Theyempower their staff to dovirtually whatever it takes toensure customer delightand it seems that meresatisfaction is not enough.The management supportwhatever decision the stafftake, even if it proves to bethe wrong one. The staffexhibit entrepreneurial spiritand outstanding peopleskills, and operate as all butself-managing, selfmotivatingindividuals. Theyare ultimately driven byexacting sales targets, butthe result is incrediblecustomer focus and serviceTake, for example, thecustomer who had herheart set on a dress in aNordstrom store. When thestore she was in was soldout in her size, the salesassistant rang all theNordstrom stores in theregion to try and track onedown. When this failed, theassistant marched acrossthe street to a rival shop,Nordstrom dresswhere the dress was alsoavailable, purchased it atthe marked value, onehigher than that at her ownstore and returned toNordstrom, selling thedress to the customer atthe Nordstrom price. Thisis one story among themany that show whyNordstrom has almostunrivalled customer loyalty.Peter Day, journalist andpresenter of BBC Radio4’s Business Matters, saidrecently that the future willbe about masscustomisation rather thanmass production. Thisapparent paradox meansthat each unit of massproduced goods will betailored to the needs ofthe individual consumer.Car manufacturers suchas Ford are alreadyexamining ways oftackling this andselling via the Internet.Levi’s jeans are nowoffering in their larger‘Originals’ stores, abespoke service to findand make the pair ofjeans, which fits perfectly.Continued overleaf…THE ONE SIZE FITS ALL MODELIS OUT-OF-DATE. CONSUMERSNOW WANT TO BE SEEN ANDTREATED AS INDIVIDUALS.18 just 4Textiles ■ ISSUE 1 SUMMER 2003 just 4Textiles ■ ISSUE 1 SUMMER 200319

INDUSTRIAL APPLICATIONS ●●INDUSTRIAL APPLICATIONSIndustrial Applications: Moving Away from Mass ProductionContinued from previous page…Other Mass Customisation SitesNike ID (www.nike.com)allows customisation ofthree styles of shoe (pergender), with up to fourdifferent base colourschemes, five accentcolours, and eight logocolours for up to 120possibilities. On top ofthat, an eight-charactername, slogan, or companyname can be added to theback of the shoe so it’sabsolutely unique.Interactive CustomClothes Design Company(www.ic3d.com) is one ofthe most comprehensivemass-customisation sitesaround. Currently, it offerscomplete customisation ofpants, jeans, bags,dresses, and shorts. Thesite is well designed,leading the customerthrough a series of choicesand displaying the virtualproducts in real-time.Levi’s and MassCustomisationIn 1995 Levi Strausslaunched its ‘ Personal PairService program forwomen’s jean, this was themanufacture and delivery ofmade-to-measure denims.Levi Strauss is regarded asa pioneer in masscustomisation and aims tocombine mass productionwith the personal service ofbespoke tailors. This is howit worked:■■across North America.Choose a fabric andget measuredTransmit info to Levi’splant in Tennessee. Theresults were transmittedelectronically to thecompany factory,where they werematched against morethan 10,000 storeddesigns to select thebest fit; the jeans thenwere producedindividually from theselected pattern.This technology allowedLevi Strauss to:■ Offer a selection ofsizes that dwarf thosecurrently available inany store.■ Reduce its need toinventory its stores.■ Identify products thatfail to sell.■ Improve its customersatisfaction.Company surveys, in fact,found that Personal Pairexpanded the program,now called ‘Original Spin,’through a Web site thatoffers a broad menu ofpersonal styling choices,allowing the customer tocreate their own idea of anideal pair of pants,choosing among dozens ofoptions such as fit (Lowcut,Relaxed, Classic), legopenings (Tapered, Bootcut, Flared), and so on.Levi’s claims that OriginalSpin ® aims to give■Visit a participatingstore. Personal Paircustomers participatedin a fitting session atany of 56 Levi stores■■Pieces are laser cutBar-coded pieces arestitched together on aregular assembly lineand mailed to customercustomers were four timesmore likely to repeat theirpurchases than buyers ofoff-the-shelf Levis. Thecompany has sinceconsumers the fit theywant and the opportunityto express their ownindividuality.20just 4Textiles ■ ISSUE 1 SUMMER 2003just 4Textiles ■ ISSUE 1 SUMMER 200321

PRINTING TECHNOLOGY ●●PRINTING TECHNOLOGYDirect Digital PrintingDirect Digital printing (DDP) has been heralded widely as the next technicalleap in the textiles printing industry, and the technology used is anextension of the technical revolution that is taking place in other industries.What is DDP?DDP is printing technology,The Backgroundwhich allows a design toHistorically, textile printing has been executed using a transferring medium, suchbe printed directly ontoas screens or rollers. Each transferring medium is engraved and assigned tofabric, from a computer,each specific colour.using an inkjet printer.As a result of recentBlock printing and engraved copper printing are the early examples of theseDDP courtesy of Sophisdevelopments in inkmethods. In block printing, the number of colours in the design is represented bychemistry, almost everytype of fabric can bedigitally printed usingink-jet technology.■ DDP allows the user toscan in pictures,artwork, and just aboutanything else and printit onto fabric.■ DDP allows amanufacturer to printunlimited colours,unlimited size repeatsand achieve a qualityunobtainable ontraditional rotarymachines. It alsoeliminates the need toengrave expensivenickel screens.a number of carved wooden blocks. A different block is needed for each of thecolour separations and these mainly consist of flat silhouette shapes and a threedimensional effect is obtained by printing several layers of these flat shapes.Historically, engraved roller printing consisted of lines and dots engraved oncopper surfaces as in intaglio printing. These early methods created the finestquality of detailed lines and tonal effects, which are still the goals for today’sprinting technology.AS A RESULT OF RECENTDEVELOPMENTS IN INKCHEMISTRY, ALMOST EVERYTYPE OF FABRIC CAN BEDIGITALLY PRINTED USINGINK-JET TECHNOLOGY.The Challengesfacing DDPAs little as 15 years ago,achieving digitally printedtextiles with a qualitymatching that producedconventionally looked likemission impossible. Thedemands of the textileapplication are extreme.Among them:■ more than a half dozencommon types ofsynthetic and naturalfibres, each with itsown ink compatibilitycharacteristics■ dealing with astretchable, flexible,often highly porous and■ extreme userequirements includinglight and water fastness(including sweatfastness) throughfinishing operations andoften outdoor use,heavy wear, abrasion,and cleaning■ for some apparelapplications,challenging registrationrequirements sinceseparate pieces needto be assembled■ not just sight, but alsotouch requirement■ much greaterabsorbency, requiringmany times the inkvolume compared withThe Benefits of DDP■ There are no limits onprintable colours orrepeat size■ Sampling time issignificantly reduced■ Multiple colourways canbe created in minutes,with the click of a mouse■ Screen costs arereduced■ Reduced labour costson short run productionThe key advantage to amanufacture is one oftime. Designers can seeDDP samples in a matterof hours, instead ofwaiting weeks for screensto be engraved andtextured surfacesprinting on papersContinued overleaf…just 4Textiles ■ ISSUE 1 SUMMER 2003 just 4Textiles ■ ISSUE 1 SUMMER 200322 23

PRINTING TECHNOLOGY ●●PRINTING TECHNOLOGYDirect Digital PrintingContinued from previous page…design struck. Similarlywhen producing multicolourways, designers cansee the effect of thescreen run order on theoverall pattern.The Limitationsof DDP■ The speed of printing ismuch slower than arotary machine, at 5metres per hour■ Fabric widths are limitedto 150 centimetres■ The fabric needs to betreated prior to printing■ The cost per metre ishigher than the currentrotary process.New RetailingOpportunitiesDigital printing opens thedoor for new retailingopportunities to markethigh quality, one-off shortruns. While the currentprices for these specialtyfabrics are quite high, themarket has discoveredthere are discerningconsumers who are willingto pay for the opportunityto have not only what theywant, but something that istruly unique.While the use of digitaltextile printing for samplesand strike-offs hasdramatically reduced theturnaround time from thetraditional six to eightweeks to just a few days, oreven hours, it is in the areaof mass customization thatthis technology holds thebrightest future. Alsodefined as agilemanufacturing, masscustomisation leverages theuse of technology againsta mix of pre-definedstandardized componentsand allows the customer tobuild their own product.An established market thatis well suited for this typeof strategy is the homefurnishings/linens market.Traditionally manufacturerswere forced to carry atremendous inventory ofboth print patterns andsewn bed products. Now amass customizationbusiness mode, deployingdigital textile printing, willallow the manufacturers toinventory white goods only,and print, cut and sew asthe market demands. Aprint style will conceivablynever be obsolete, and theconsumer will be able toorder replacement piecesat any time.THE FUTURE OF DIGITALPRINTING TECHNOLOGYIS NOT JUST ABOUTREPLACING EXISTING PRINTINGMETHODS WITH DIGITALPRINTING TECHNOLOGY, BUTABOUT NEW PRODUCTS,NEW MARKETS AND NEWOPPORTUNITIES.SophisFor more than a decade, the Sophis Group, a 20-year-old Belgian company, has supplied itsdesign and weaving software system to thetextiles industry. In addition to its textile designfeatures, the software can link to the loom itself,controlling how the device lifts threads and shiftsthe yarn. Sophis predicts that digital printing willeventually eliminate textile manufacturers’resistance to short-run orders. This is becausethanks to digital print technology, short runs willactually become easier to handle than longerruns. In turn, digital printing will drastically reducethe number of rotary printer screens that textilecompanies need to produce, as well as enhancedesign variation and complexity. During customervisits, small fabric samples will be whipped off ofthe printer in a matter of minutes, and rapidprototyping of colourways will accelerate theprocess from design to manufacture.Glossary of Printing TermsAcid dyes:Discharge Printing:Commercial dyes used for Method of printing withnylon, wool, silk, acrylic, chlorine or other colordestroyingchemicals on apolypropylene and blends ofthese fibres, so called because fabric already dyed to bleachthey are applied to fabric in out the color, yielding a whiteorganic or inorganic acid pattern on a colored ground.dyeing solutions.Dye Sublimation:Blotch Printing:A loss of dye due to evaporationMethod of printing in which of the solid without formationthe ground color is printed of a liquid phase.rather than dyed; the reverse ofthe fabric is white.Fixing/Fixation:Method of setting the dye afterColor Fastness:dyeing, usually by steaming,Term used to denote the hot wash, or chemicals.resistance to change of amaterial in any of its colour Heat Transfer Printing:characteristics. (Usually refers A method to transfer designsto a dye’s permanence after from rolls of paper to fabrics.washing, exposure to light, etc.) Designs are preprinted on thepaper with disperse dyes thatDigital Printing:sublime onto fabric when theyA form of printing where are brought together at 400°Fmicro-sized droplets of dye are (204°C) in a heat transferplaced onto the desired printing machine; mostsubstrate through an inkjet effective on polyester andprinthead. The print system cellulose triacetate; blends withsoftware interprets the data cellulosic and animal fibres tosupplied by a digital image file produce pale effects.to control the droplet outputso that the image quality and Misfits:color control may be achieved. A misfit is a print defect causedby improper alignment of theDisperse Dyes:screens. Also known as ‘out ofSynthetic, almost waterinsoluabledyes used for acetate, unprinted areas in the design.registration,’ misfits leavenylon and polyester, applied For example, a green leaf mayfrom fine aqueous solutions. overlap its black outline or printover another color. Up to 10%of printed goods designated asfirst quality contain some levelof misfit.Pigment Dyes:Insoluble pigments are printedonto fabric with binders oradhesive resins, and theprinted fabric is then heatedto fix the binder and renderit insoluble.Reactive Dyes:Class of dye which reactschemically to bond with thefibre substrate. Application ismostly limited to cellulosic,protein, and nylon fibres. Colorsare bright; fastness excellent.Rotary Screen Printing:A technique for printing thatutilizes perforated nickelscreens shaped into hollowcylinders. A screen is preparedwith the pattern for each colorin the design. A metal rollerforces the color paste onto thefabric wherever the holes in thescreen have not been covered.Particularly suited to makingblotch prints. (This is themethod used for mostcommercial screen printedfabrics for apparel.)Substrate: In textiles, a fibreassembly, yarn, fabric orfilm to which another materialis applied.Stick-ins:A stick-in occurs when a smallfibre or piece of lint gets stuckin the screen opening. Theresult is a small pen tip sizedunprinted circle in the design.A stick-in is very difficult tosee and often goes unnoticedduring a long run.Scrimps:A scrimp defect occurs whenthe fabric creases underneathone of the screens during theprinting process. The pattern isthen printed on top of thecrease, leaving a largeunprinted area when the fabricreturns to its relaxed state.Wicking:Wicking, also known asflushing, occurs when theprinted area bleeds out intothe unprinted area. The resultis a ‘haloing’ or shadowingeffect around the outline ofthe pattern design. Residualsalts left in the fabric duringresin finishing and/or poorfabric preparation oftencause wicking.just 4Textiles ■ ISSUE 1 SUMMER 2003just 4Textiles ■ ISSUE 1 SUMMER 200324 25

RAISING STANDARDS ●●RAISING STANDARDSRaising Standards:Presenting Work at AS LevelWorking at AS level in Product Design is a step on from GCSE and toemphasise the difference students should consider other ways in which topresent their work, rather than the A3 spiral bound folder used for GCSE.Students could:■ Produce instruction Display Boards■ Produce a set offolding display boardscontaining samplesand detailing how theproduct developedbooklets detailingscreen captures/digitalphotos, explaining howICT tasks wereachievedThese are large foldingboards, which can be usedto display practical samplesand chart the progress ofideas development. The■ Include furthersamples/ideas insketchbooksexamples on these boardsshould be well annotated.Students were required toproduce their own boardsand some students evenmade fabric bags to carrythem in. The production ofA students sketchbookthe board is not included inthe time allowed tocomplete the task.irrespective of presentationconstraints. It is importantthat candidates are madeSketchbooksThe sketchbook is animportant part of AS workas it can be used torecord the student’s ideasas they develop.aware of the informal natureof the sketchbook. Thoughclear communication(including appropriateannotation) is expected,there is no requirement forelaborately finishedOne exam board states: presentation drawings,which could impinge onIt is intended that thissketchbook should bedirectly linked to thetime and creativity, to beincluded within thesketchbook. (WJEC)extended task, wherecandidates have theopportunity to thinkcreatively and fluently■■Annotate all samplesInclude sketches,collage, fabric samples,Section of a display board by an AS studentaround the problemdigital photos etc.Students are given theopportunity to cover theirsketchbooks as an ASstarter and this is notincluded in the timeallowance suggested bythe examination board.Instruction BooksIf students producedanything using a PC theyshould detail their work ina booklet. Students canuse screen captures toshow how they used thesoftware and these areuseful to include in theKey Skills portfolio.Examples of instruction book pagesjust 4Textiles ■ ISSUE 1 SUMMER 2003just 4Textiles ■ ISSUE 1 SUMMER 200326 27