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A Smile - Coulee Region Women Magazine

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Find a sunny place to sit and listen to the waves<br />

breaking on the nearby reef.<br />

according to whim.<br />

Islanders pride themselves on keeping<br />

their village safe and clean while preserving<br />

the natural environment of the island and<br />

resisting large-scale development. There<br />

are no automobiles on the island (with the<br />

exception of fire and police vehicles), and the<br />

streets are paved naturally with beach sand.<br />

Battery-operated golf carts (locally referred<br />

to as cars) and bicycles are the primary<br />

modes of transportation. Both are available<br />

for rent, although you can easily walk the<br />

perimeter of the island after breakfast and<br />

be back in time for lunch.<br />

Because the island is so small (only 2 miles<br />

long and 4 blocks wide), tourists and locals<br />

are integrated, so you will share the streets<br />

with local children on their way to school<br />

and families going to market. The 1,300<br />

people who inhabit the island are extremely<br />

friendly and helpful; they love their island<br />

and are happy to share it with you.<br />

No shoes, no shirt, no problem<br />

Caye Caulker has earned a reputation<br />

as a backpacker island due to the relative<br />

low cost of transportation, lodging and<br />

food. You won’t find a single franchised<br />

restaurant or hotel on the island; all<br />

businesses are locally owned and operated.<br />

46 APRIL/MAY 2009 www.crwmagazine.com<br />

Accommodations can cost less than $20<br />

per day for a modest one-room cabana—<br />

although this option is for the adventurer<br />

since bathrooms are often shared with<br />

other travelers and hot water may not be<br />

available. Expect to pay between $50 and<br />

$150 for hotel rooms and apartments or<br />

homes owned by out-of-town vacationers.<br />

Costs will vary depending on amenities<br />

and proximity to the ocean and village.<br />

There are a variety of open-air dining<br />

options on the island, including Indian<br />

and Italian cuisine. Leave your eveningwear<br />

at home, though; even the upper-scale<br />

restaurants on the island maintain the island<br />

philosophy and welcome barefoot and<br />

casually clad diners. Saltwater seafood such<br />

as lobster (when in season), crab and conch<br />

are island specialties, but Americanized<br />

sandwiches and French fries are also available<br />

for the less adventurous palate.<br />

One great and unassuming dinner<br />

option not to be missed is located on the<br />

beach in the heart of the village. There you<br />

will find Jolly Roger cooking on a large<br />

charcoal grill made from a repurposed<br />

butane tank. His “restaurant” consists of<br />

a cluster of picnic tables on the beach and<br />

a small yellow cabana, where Jolly Roger’s<br />

sister prepares the side dishes. Hands down,<br />

Jolly Roger serves the best barbecued food<br />

on the island.<br />

After dinner, continue down the sandy<br />

lane to the Lazy Lizard at the northernmost<br />

tip of the island. There you will find the<br />

best view on the island and the best place<br />

to catch the sunset. The Lazy Lizard (which<br />

has won the distinctive title of my favorite<br />

place on earth) is cradled on three sides<br />

by the warm Caribbean waters and boasts<br />

the best swimming, the best fishing from<br />

shore and the coldest Belizean brewed beer<br />

on the island.<br />

Set sail for adventure<br />

From Caye Caulker, those who seek<br />

adventure will find an abundance of tour<br />

options. Of course, seafaring opportunities<br />

Buildings on the island are a celebration of light with<br />

vibrant and contrasting colors.<br />

like snorkeling, diving and tropical fishing<br />

abound. You can also take in a wealth of<br />

sites, activities and cultural experiences on<br />

the mainland, including ancient Mayan<br />

ruins, river activities (such as cave tubing,<br />

kayaking and rafting) and jungle wildlife<br />

preserves (think baboons and jaguars). Island<br />

hopping to nearby cayes is yet another way<br />

to see all that Belize has to offer.<br />

While this slow-paced Caribbean island<br />

may not be for everyone, it is a great place to<br />

kick off your shoes and disconnect from the<br />

real world if you don’t mind forgoing luxury.<br />

Caye Caulker has become part of my soul,<br />

inspiring me to slow down and appreciate<br />

the simplicity and beauty of every day. I<br />

welcome you to go slow and find yourself<br />

on the peaceful island of Caye Caulker.<br />

For more information, go to<br />

www.cayecaulkerbelize.net or www.<br />

gocayecaulker.com. You may also e-mail<br />

the author at melhanson@charter.net. To<br />

view a gallery of photos from this delightful<br />

island, visit www.crwmagazine.com D<br />

Melissa Hanson is a freelance writer who is<br />

grateful for the opportunity to combine her<br />

loves of travel, writing and photography.

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