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Oranienburger Straße<br />
Like no other street, Oranienburger<br />
Straße, in the centre of<br />
the old Scheunenviertel, symbolizes<br />
the rise and fall of Jewish<br />
culture in Berlin. Traces of its<br />
Jewish past are visible all along<br />
the street, such as the Neue<br />
Synagoge and several Jewish<br />
cafés and restaurants (see p129).<br />
Some 18th- and 19th-century<br />
buildings bear witness to the<br />
street’s former splendour – the<br />
Postfuhramt (see p125), for<br />
example, or the house at No.<br />
71–72, built in 1789 by Christian<br />
Friedrich Becherer for the Grand<br />
Lodge of the Freemasons of<br />
Germany. d Mitte, between Friedrichstr.<br />
and Rosenthaler Str. • Map J4/5<br />
Neue Synagoge<br />
The New Synagogue, built<br />
in 1859–66, was once the largest<br />
in Europe. In 1938, it managed<br />
to survive “Reichskristallnacht”<br />
thanks to the vigilance of a brave<br />
guard, but it was damaged by<br />
bombs during World War II.<br />
Behind the Moorish façades are<br />
a prayer room and the Centrum<br />
Judaicum. d Oranienburger Str. 29–30<br />
• Map J4/5 • 10am–6pm Sun–Thu,<br />
10am–2pm Fri • (030) 28 40 13 16 • Free<br />
admission<br />
Hackesche Höfe<br />
Berlin’s largest and most<br />
attractive group of restored<br />
commercial buildings, Hackesche<br />
Höfe extends between Oranienburger<br />
and Rosenthaler Straße<br />
and up to Sophienstraße in the<br />
east. The complex of buildings,<br />
comprised of nine interconnecting<br />
courtyards, was designed<br />
around the turn of the 20th<br />
century by Kurt Berndt and<br />
August Endell, two leading<br />
exponents of Art Nouveau.<br />
The first courtyard especially<br />
features elements that are<br />
typical of this style: geometric<br />
patterns are laid out in vibrant<br />
colours on glazed tiles, covering<br />
the entire building from the foundations<br />
to the guttering. What<br />
had lain in ruin after 1945 has<br />
now been carefully restored,<br />
and forms today one of the most<br />
popular nightlife centres in the<br />
city. Restaurants and cafés (see<br />
p128–9), the Varieté Chamäleon<br />
(see p56), galleries and small<br />
shops have all settled in this<br />
area. d Rosenthaler Str. 40–41 • Map I5<br />
Sophienstraße<br />
Narrow Sophienstraße has<br />
been beautifully restored and<br />
now looks exactly as it did in the<br />
late 18th century. A number of<br />
shops and arts and crafts workshops<br />
are now based in the<br />
modest buildings and courtyards.<br />
Close by stands Sophienkirche,<br />
the first Protestant parish church,<br />
founded by Queen Sophie Luise<br />
in 1712. Next to the Baroque<br />
church is a small cemetery with<br />
some 18th-century tombs.<br />
d Große Hamburger Str. 29 • Map I5<br />
The old Sophienkirche<br />
Around Town – Central Berlin: Scheunenviertel<br />
123