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Oranienburger Straße<br />

Like no other street, Oranienburger<br />

Straße, in the centre of<br />

the old Scheunenviertel, symbolizes<br />

the rise and fall of Jewish<br />

culture in Berlin. Traces of its<br />

Jewish past are visible all along<br />

the street, such as the Neue<br />

Synagoge and several Jewish<br />

cafés and restaurants (see p129).<br />

Some 18th- and 19th-century<br />

buildings bear witness to the<br />

street’s former splendour – the<br />

Postfuhramt (see p125), for<br />

example, or the house at No.<br />

71–72, built in 1789 by Christian<br />

Friedrich Becherer for the Grand<br />

Lodge of the Freemasons of<br />

Germany. d Mitte, between Friedrichstr.<br />

and Rosenthaler Str. • Map J4/5<br />

Neue Synagoge<br />

The New Synagogue, built<br />

in 1859–66, was once the largest<br />

in Europe. In 1938, it managed<br />

to survive “Reichskristallnacht”<br />

thanks to the vigilance of a brave<br />

guard, but it was damaged by<br />

bombs during World War II.<br />

Behind the Moorish façades are<br />

a prayer room and the Centrum<br />

Judaicum. d Oranienburger Str. 29–30<br />

• Map J4/5 • 10am–6pm Sun–Thu,<br />

10am–2pm Fri • (030) 28 40 13 16 • Free<br />

admission<br />

Hackesche Höfe<br />

Berlin’s largest and most<br />

attractive group of restored<br />

commercial buildings, Hackesche<br />

Höfe extends between Oranienburger<br />

and Rosenthaler Straße<br />

and up to Sophienstraße in the<br />

east. The complex of buildings,<br />

comprised of nine interconnecting<br />

courtyards, was designed<br />

around the turn of the 20th<br />

century by Kurt Berndt and<br />

August Endell, two leading<br />

exponents of Art Nouveau.<br />

The first courtyard especially<br />

features elements that are<br />

typical of this style: geometric<br />

patterns are laid out in vibrant<br />

colours on glazed tiles, covering<br />

the entire building from the foundations<br />

to the guttering. What<br />

had lain in ruin after 1945 has<br />

now been carefully restored,<br />

and forms today one of the most<br />

popular nightlife centres in the<br />

city. Restaurants and cafés (see<br />

p128–9), the Varieté Chamäleon<br />

(see p56), galleries and small<br />

shops have all settled in this<br />

area. d Rosenthaler Str. 40–41 • Map I5<br />

Sophienstraße<br />

Narrow Sophienstraße has<br />

been beautifully restored and<br />

now looks exactly as it did in the<br />

late 18th century. A number of<br />

shops and arts and crafts workshops<br />

are now based in the<br />

modest buildings and courtyards.<br />

Close by stands Sophienkirche,<br />

the first Protestant parish church,<br />

founded by Queen Sophie Luise<br />

in 1712. Next to the Baroque<br />

church is a small cemetery with<br />

some 18th-century tombs.<br />

d Große Hamburger Str. 29 • Map I5<br />

The old Sophienkirche<br />

Around Town – Central Berlin: Scheunenviertel<br />

123

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