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FEATURE STORY | WINE COUNTRY THIS WEEKPhotos by Lisa SzeFrank Family Vineyardsby Charles NeaveMost wineries, if they would ever get ascore of 90 or above on one of their winesfrom the all-powerful wine critic Robert M.Parker, Jr., would jump for joy, pop the corkon a bottle of sparkling and slap each otheron the back. Two ratings like that and it’smagnums of the bubbly and hoots andhollers. So imagine the reaction at the end oflast year when the Napa Valley’s Frank FamilyWinery got not one, not two, not three, butfive scores in the 90s. For fans and collectors,it probably didn’t come as any surprise at all.For starters you need to know that thisfabled Napa Valley winery makes some of thefinest, most sought after, most coveted andrecognizable wine in the world. Then youhave to understand that when you travel totheir Larkmead Lane tasting room betweenSt. Helena and Calistoga, you’ll have a memorabletime and will leave with a smile on yourface.As they always say, “You’ll never havebetter wine ... or a better time.” That’s thepromise you get from the folks in theirtasting room in the northern half of the valley,where the Vaca Range to the east and theMayacamas to the west slowly begin toconverge, to make the valley seem in someways more geographically and topographicallyintimate.The winery’s setting is almost as exceptionalas the wines they produce, age, sell andpour. But above all, the wines are simply that:very, very good. There are legions of loyal andreturning wine-loving fans who will readily –and most enthusiastically – attest to that.These loyalists may not qualify as a fullblowncult, but it is pretty darned close, andthey are international in scope, joined in theirlove and respect for this winery. So on secondthought, maybe it is more a matter of peoplejoined together by infinite good taste.If you want to meet people in the NapaValley and points beyond, simply have abottle of Frank Family wine on your table orthe bar and let it go from there. It is an immediatecatalyst to good conversation andperhaps a new acquaintance or two.While praise for the winery, the wines andthe tasting room may be completely up-to-theminute, its history goes back more than 125years. Back in 1884, the name on thebuilding was Larkmead Winery. Later, in1906, that same building was refinished withnative sandstone quarried from nearby hills.Today, it is considered to be a prime exampleof California Wine Country architecture andis listed on the National Register of HistoricalPlaces.The grounds are expansive, with a greatlawn, rose bushes, majestic old oaks andtrimmed hedges that complement the wineryand tasting room. Once inside the stunningtasting rooms the seriousness of the winemakingprocess is balanced with good humorand as much information as you might wanton how grapes are magically turned intowine. Or if you want to simply revel in thetastes in the glass, that is perfectly fine withthem.The stewardship of the historic property isnow the responsibility of Hollywood iconRichard Frank, recipient of an Emmy for lifetimeachievement. As chairman of WaltDisney Television, president of Walt DisneyStudios for almost ten years and president ofthe Paramount Television Group, he expectedperfection. It is certainly no different at thewinery that bears his name and it shows upeverywhere you look, and taste.The wines begin with the Chardonnay, abottling that is perfect to sip by itself or to20 www.WineCountryThisWeek.com
WINE COUNTRY THIS WEEK | WINERY FEATUREserve with food. As with all FrankFamily wines it stirs up greatemotion and lingers.The dense, spicy Zinfandel –where the fruit seems to combinedark chocolate and cracked blackpepper notes with the essence ofraspberry – creates a wine thatfairly explodes in the mouth andends with a lingering finish. Itwalks a path of flavors andaromas that are characteristic ofboth the Cabernet Sauvignon aswell as the limited productionRutherford Reserve Cab, aged foryears in oak barrels at the winery.Also on the list are the limitededition bottlings of ReserveChardonnay, plus a marvelouslyfood-friendly Rutherford ReserveSangiovese, a Reserve Pinot Noir,Reserve Zin and, from the famedsoil of Rutherford to the south, anindescribable Winston Hill RedWine. Then add to that threedistinct sparkling wines and (anoften sold out) Zinfandel Port.As tasting room managerDennis Zablosky, an icon in hisown right says, “I want visitors’memories of the winery to be asmuch about their experience hereas the wines they taste.”So, in the end, you cannot gowrong, no matter your preferencesand tastes. Combine thatwith the atmosphere and the staffand you really will have some ofthe best wine – and the best times– of your life.The tasting room at FrankFamily Vineyards is located at1091 Larkmead Lane, Calistoga.They’re open daily, from10 a.m. until 5 p.m. For moreinformation or directions, call1-800-574-9463 or (707) 942-0859, or go to the website atwww.frankfamilyvineyards.com. For parties of six or more,appointments are necessary.www.WineCountryThisWeek.com21
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Open Daily 10am-5pm, Last Seating 4
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