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WINE COUNTRY THIS WEEK: CENTRAL COASTWinemaker Profile: Bianchi WineryTOM LANEby Michael CervinThirty years ago the Bianchi family startedout producing bulk wine. But as thesecond generation took over there was adesire to increase the quality of the wine.Glenn Bianchi expanded his father’s businessand upped the quality when he purchased 40acres in Paso Robles in 2000. It’s one thing tohave the right location with the right grapesplanted in the right ground, but you also needthe right winemaker. And so Tom Lane cameto Bianchi in 2005 and nothing’s been thesame since.Tom studied winemaking and enology atUC Davis, the premier education for wine inthe U.S. But learning to make wine beginswith understanding the plant itself. So Tomalso earned a Bachelors degree in Biology andChemistry from Chico State University, aMaster’s degree in Biology (Plant Taxonomy)from Kansas State University, and furthergraduate studies in Botany at Ohio StateUniversity. He then landed gigs at Navarro10Vineyards in Northern California, then atConcannon in Livermore where Tom helpedthe winery earn hundreds of accolades,including Wine & Spirits Magazine Winery ofthe Year in 1995 and 1997.Currently producing approximately15,000 cases of Bianchi wine, there is a focuson reds. “Our east side microclimate in PasoRobles is warmer than most of the otherareas,” Tom says. “We have San Ysidro soilwith lots of rock and some clay, we get lowerrainfall than the west side, and we have somebreezes from the Salinas Valley, as well as somefrom the Templeton Gap. Overall, it’s great forreds.” And Tom’s red wines include the traditionalCabernet, Merlot and Pinot Noir, but,due to the Italian history of the Bianchi family,Tom finds himself making some obscurewines. “We’re into a lot of varietals and wekind of take our time with each one,” he adds.“A lot of people are planting Rhones and reallypromoting this area as a Rhone hot-bed,” hesays, but it’s the Italian wines that are beginningto define Bianchi. Tom’s producingRefosco, Sangiovese and Barbera for example.“It’s my favorite wine right now,” Tomconfesses about Refosco. “These are reallyinteresting grapes. The berries are quite large,the fruit is very high in acidity and it ripenslater, giving it great concentration and lots offruity character. It reminds me of an old rusticred, with its medium-to-medium plus body.It’s fun, and it’s good! This is a wine that strikesa chord with the more adventurous tasters.”And tasters are indeed becoming bolder withtheir choices, which allows Tom to createwines with degrees of depth. “The finishedwine is an amalgam, a synergy of layers andflavors, a blended whole which is more thanthe sum of its parts.” Tom states, “You can’tentirely predict what the wine will be likeonce until it’s blended – that keeps winemakinginteresting.”Bianchi Winery is located at 3380 BranchRoad on Paso’s Eastside. For details, call (805)226-9922 or go to www.bianchiwinery.com.www.WineCountryThisWeek.com
W I N E C O U N T R Y T H I S W E E K ’ SP R E F E R R E D R E S TA U R A N T SROBIN’S RESTAURANT by Charles NeaveSometimes a place just fits. You know it by looking at it, youknow as soon as walk up the path and in the door that this is aspot that simply belongs right where it is, doing exactly what itis doing. That, in a word or two, would describe the Cambriarestaurant known fondly – and to many – as Robin’s Restaurant.Located in a charming and nicely weathered old home in thishistoric seaside town, they offer an eclectic menu that haspleased locals and visitors since they opened their doors in1985. The interior (with its fireplace) and the spacious, multileveledheated deck surrounded by flowersand vines are a bit eclectic as well, and it allblends together to match the setting, just asowner Shanny Covey intended it to be:warm, informal, comfortable and unique.And it should be noted that those gardensare the perfect setting for a small reception.So how to define “eclectic” when it comesto menus? Well, how about “Thursday NightSushi Night.” Or lobster enchiladas,Tandoori chicken, salmon bisque, Vietnamese lumpia,Malaysian green curry, pork osso buco and a juicy Angus beefburger with white cheddar and grilled sweet onions. All on thesame menu. Then there’s the monthly Prix Fixe Dinners on thesecond Friday of each month that feature different flavorsC A Y U C O Sfrom around the world. If that is notwhat eclectic means, then we are lookingat different dictionaries. But, it allsomehow works, and wonderfully so.Then there is the extensive wine list,which while pretty straightforward alsohas more than a few surprises. All ofwhich makes a visit to this charming partof the coast an even more enjoyable journey.Robin’s Restaurant is open daily, for lunch from 11 a.m. to4:45 p.m. and for dinner from 5 to 9:30 p.m. (10 p.m. onFriday and Saturday). There are brunch specials on Sundayuntil 3 p.m. They are in Cambria at 4095 Burton Drive.For more information on the restaurant, their cateringservices or to make reservations call (805) 927-5007. Theirwebsite is www.robinsrestaurant.com.HOPPE’S GARDEN BISTRO & WINE SHOPThe most highly acclaimed restaurant and Wine Shop on the Central Coast.Recognized for Chef Wilhelm Hoppe’s seasonally inspired menu, handselectedwine list with a beautiful garden and historical setting. Offering awide range of menu items - from wild game to prime meats and vegetarian/veganitems.78 N. Ocean Avenue • Wednesday-Sunday 11am-10pmwww.hoppesbistro.com • 805.995.1006C A M B R I AS A N L U I S O B I S P OMAMA'S MEATBALLFine Italian Restaurant and CateringMama's Meatball has specialized in creatingseasonal menus by using only the finest andfreshest ingredients.570 Higuera St. Suite 130-135www.mamasmeatball.com805-544-0861ROBIN'S RESTAURANTLocated in the historic east village of Cambria, in a charming vintagehome, Robin’s has been delighting locals & visitors with a fresh eclecticquality menu of international foods and gracious service for 24 years.We also have a beautiful garden for small weddings & special events.Open daily from 11am. Sunday Brunch specials &monthly Prix Fixe dinners. Mother’s Day Brunch.4095 Burton Dr. • www.robinsrestaurant.com • (805) 927-5007www.WineCountryThisWeek.comNOVO RESTAURANTNOVO’s international flavors are the leading ingredients in anexotic dining experience. Brazilian, Mediterranean and Asianflavors awaken the senses. In house roasted spices for curries,mixtures and marinades balanced with crisp, seasonal vegetablesand savory meats. Explore.726 Higuera Street • Open Daily from 11am805-543-3986 • www.novorestaurant.com11
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Page 29 and 30: The 6th annual Santa Barbara Brazil
Page 31 and 32: P erfectFilet Mignon Paired withJad
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