Quarry Climbs - New Zealand Alpine Club

Quarry Climbsa guide for climbersRick McGregorRichard ThomsonMichael Welson

Quarry ClimbsAbout this guideThis guidebook is based primarily on the originalguide to the Mt Eden Quarry, Quarry Climbs, andincorporates information from the New ZealandAlpine Club’s Northern Rock guidebook and variousphotocopied bouldering guides.© New Zealand Alpine Club 2010PO Box 786, Christchurch, New ZealandDistribution enquiries:New Zealand Alpine Club PublicationsPh (03) 377–7595 | Fax (03) 377–7594Email publications@alpineclub.org.nzRevised edition 2010,Rick McGregor and Michael Welson.ISBN 0-9582421-6-XDisclaimerClimbing is a potentially hazardous activity carryinga risk of personal injury or death. Climbs shouldonly be undertaken with a full understanding ofall inherent risks. It is recommended that noviceclimbers seek proper training from recognisedsources.This book is a guide to climbs; as such it is acomposite of opinions from many sources. Climbersusing the information in this guidebook do soentirely at their own risk. The author and NZACdisclaim any liability for injury or other damagethat may be sustained by using the informationprovided in this guidebook.You are responsible for your own safety. Enjoy yourclimbing!A historical noteThe Mount Eden Quarry was the crucible ofhard rock climbing in New Zealand. Its steep,technical and fingery basalt grooves, as muchas its urban setting remote from any mountains,were the catalyst for climbers to beginpursuing rock climbing as an end in itself. Bythe mid 1980s the Quarry had the densest concentrationof hard climbs in the country.The routes at the Quarry are as good as theyever were. It is by far the most popular crag inthe region and Aucklanders are fortunate tohave such a high-quality crag in their midst.But today, climbing styles have changed. Thin,intensely fingery moves and hard-to-placesmall wires and RPs are no longer at the cuttingedge of hard rock and the Quarry has lost someof its lustre.The climbing history of the Quarry,although not described here, is well worthdiscovering. Earlier editions of QuarryClimbs cover it in detail, and another excellentoverview is contained in the chapter onthe Mt Eden Quarry in Mark Sedon’s ClassicRock Climbing in New Zealand (Nelson: CraigPotton Publishing, 2007).AcknowledgementsClimbs at the Quarry were first described inCliff Smith and Jim Sawer’s Rockclimbing Guideto the Auckland Area in 1974; the first editionof Rick McGregor’s Quarry Climbs appeared in1983. This edition owes a debt to both, and toall subsequent guides.For this edition particular thanks are due toRick McGregor, Michael Welson, Tony Ward-Holmes, Kester Brown, Peter Cammell andCharlie Creese.Cover: Rich Morgan on Supergroove,photo by Michael Welson

3Before you leave homeMotorwayMt EdenPrisonTennisCourtsLocation mapTheLongSideMountain RoadNormanby RoadAucklandGrammarSchoolTheShort SideClive Roadto Mt Eden Road wFinding the QuarryThe Mt Eden Quarry is situated in the centreof Auckland, in the grounds of the AucklandGrammar School and beside the southernmotorway and the Mt Eden Prison.Written approval must be obtained from theheadmaster before climbing at the Quarry:Auckland Grammar SchoolPrivate Bag 99930NewmarketAuckland 1149Tel: 64 9 623 5400To reach the Long Side from the school’smain gates on Mountain Road, follow the signsto the Centennial Theatre complex and takethe road that leads down to the left of the theatreto the lower playing fields — and the crag.Use the track from the end of the fence atthe far right-hand end to get to the top of thecliff. Chains lead down from the top fenceto abseil anchors above Graveyard Groove,Nutcracker and Silver Airman.Access to the Short Side, which is nearthe corner of Clive and Normanby Roads, isfrom the Grammar–Windsor hockey turf onNormanby Road.Weather and rock conditionsAuckland has a showery maritime climate but,because the crag faces north and is a naturalheat trap, it dries quickly. Climbing is possibleall year round, but in summer it can getextremely hot in the middle of the day.Climbing equipmentFew of the routes at the Quarry can be climbedsolely on bolt protection. On moderate routesmedium to large wires predominate, with someplacements for cams. On more difficult routessmall wires are needed, often several of eachsize. There is a big difference between top-ropingand leading; some routes require the abilityto place intricate and awkward protection.Using a helmet is recommended — theground at the top of many routes is loose.Take a square of carpet for wiping your feetbefore trying a boulder problem. A boulderingmat (or two) is recommended for the higherboulder problems.Other equipment to considerFirst aid kit, water bottle, sunscreen, fingertape and a camera.Bolts and belay pointsAlthough pitons were the main form of fixedproteection used on most first ascents at theQuarry, these have been replaced by bolts.Localclimbers monitor the age and condition of allfixed protection and belays and there should beno reason to replace or add new bolts.A few routes have been retrobolted withoutthe first ascensionist’s knowledge or consent.Sometimes adding new bolts (and new boltedvariations) has changed the nature of adjacentroutes. Neither practice is acceptable.Neither the authors nor the New ZealandAlpine Club guarantee the safety of any bolts;nor are they responsible for any bolts placed.Climbers should inspect each bolt and takeresponsibility for their own personal safety.Downloaded from www.alpineclub.org.nz

Quarry ClimbsAt the cragThe Mt Eden Quarry comprises two maincliffs: the Long Side, with routes of about 15to 20 metres in height, and the Short Side, withroutes of up to 10 metres.The Long Side comes into its own for climberscompetent at around grade 18 and above.The Short Side is generally more suitable forlearners, with shorter climbs and lower grades.The rock is fine-grained columnar basalt fromthe Mt Eden lava flow.Permission to climbPermission to climb at the Quarry is at the discretionof the Auckland Grammar School. Thiscliff is a priceless resource; we cannot afford tolose access to it. The school has laid down thefollowing conditions that climbers using theQuarry must abide by:• Rock climbing is a dangerous activity.• Climbing is prohibited unless prior writtenapproval is obtained from the headmaster.Authorised users climb at their own risk.• Any person climbing on the wall withoutwritten approval of the headmaster is a trespasser.• The board of trustees accepts no liability forinjury or accident.• Do not climb over of under fences• do not use fences for anchors• Do not interfere with school equipmentwhich may be in use• Do not litter• Do not behave in a manner which mightoffend other users.Environmental CodeFor many Auckland climbers the Quarry is thefirst place to climb real rock after learning toclimb on indoor walls.Although the Quarry is a highly modifiedurban environment, there are still some thingsto keep in mind that will go a long way towardssafeguarding access and keeping the crag ingood condition for the next generation.One: Please follow existing tracks. This willprevent unnecessary damage to the vegetationsurrounding the cliffs.Two: Do not drop litter at the crag. Take homeany that you find.Three: Do not take your dog to the crag.Four: Absolutely no chipping.Five: Before placing bolts on a new route,consider carefully where they should best besituated, and whether the climb is worth theinvestment of time and money. Do not addbolts to existing routes.Six: Use as little chalk as possible, and brushaway tick marks or excessive build-up at theend of your session.Seven: If you become frustrated with a climbplease keep obscenities and offensive phrasesto yourself.Remember that access to crags is a privilege,not a right.This code is based on the NZAC code of conductfor rock climbers, which can be read atwww.alpineclub.org.nz.SafetyThis is largely in your hands — everybodyshould take responsibility for their own safety.Search and rescueContact the nearest police station or ring 111for an ambulance. There is a public phone onMountain Road, near the southern entrance tothe Grammar School.DescentsAbseiling or lowering off is recommended.Fixed belays and abseil chains can be used forall the climbs and are marked on the topos.At the right-hand end of the Long Side (facingthe cliff ) there is a track that leads to thetop of the cliff.Descent from Short Side routes is normallyby walking off.

Casual Regression – The Raven 5See key over page3 4 5 67The Long SideAt the left-hand end of the cliff, in an areaof broken rock and vegetation, there are tworoutes:1 Casual Regression 15The rather shabby crack line. John Smith, May 19952 False Induction 16 2Climb past a bolt on the lower tier toanother bolt on the lichenous slab. A ½ or1 cam is useful under the top flake. John Smith, May 19953 Cliff Smith’s Corner 16The left-facing corner to easier groundabove. An easier variant finishes right tothe Bop Gun ledge.4 Bop Gun 24The steep highball rib with a committingmove to the ledge. Charlie Creese (solo), February 19815 Brain Damage 20A short right-facing crack and corner.Crux at top.Len Gillman, 19776 Dekcuf 24The steep, sheer groove. Bryce Martin, September 19777 The Raven 24 ]The steep, left-leaning groove. Thoughshort, this is often regarded as a yardstickfor the grade.Robbie McBirney, 1977Downloaded from www.alpineclub.org.nz

Quarry Climbs: Long Side3512 4 7869 10 1112 13KeyGrades 1–19Grades 20–24Grades 25+111Bolted anchorNatural gear anchor (gear, blocks or trees)Boulder problem

Quarry Climbs: Long Side151781212 3 45 6 7 91011131416

Blam Blam Blam – Wild Gravity Direct 91 Blam, Blam, Blam 28 [Tip-tearing moves lead leftward up theoverhanging wall to reach a peapod grooveand an easing but still difficult finish.(Only 27 if boulder mats, the bolt onFaulty Logic or pre-placed gear is used.)There were few routes harder than this inthe world in 1981: at Arapiles, Cobwebs wasclimbed in December and the first French8as not until 1982.Charlie Creese, November 19812 Faulty Logic 27 2The worst joke at the crag? The wall with 2bolts, straight up past the big hole. Kim Carrigan, February 19863 Effort, Money and Time 24Dubbed by one wag ‘Biggles Flies FurtherWest’. Start at the pointy ledge and climbthe thin crack left of Biggles Flies West.Clip the bolt on Faulty Logic if you can. Bolke Water, February 19924 Biggles Flies West 21Harder than it looks. Follow the thin crackand do a ‘Bigglesworth’ to reach the ledge.Grant Davidson, November 19805 Graveyard Groove 17 [Moore climbed this sharp corner just hoursafter the column that formerly enclosed itcollapsed — as he was soloing it!Bryan Moore, June 19846 Biggles Sucks a Kumara 22 2Climb the buttress past one peg and a bolt.Peter Dickson, August 19847 Dalrymple’s Groove 18Dalrymple is in fact Rick McGregor’smiddle name. The prominent V-groove,somewhat difficult to protect. Robbie McBirney, 19738 LH Finish 17Climb left to finish up Graveyard Groove.9 Diddely Dick 23 2The rib provides variety. Rick McGregor, 19810 Koruba 17 3The prominent U-shaped groove. Thisbridging classic used to see some longfalls — bolts now rather dampen theexcitement.Rick McGregor, 1974q Nutless 18 2The arête between Koruba and Nutcracker.Don’t use the cracks on either side. Peter Dickson (solo), 1985w Nutcracker 16Traverse up and right to the ledge at thebottom of the groove (or reach it direct —harder). Climb the groove, exiting right. Robbie McBirney, May 1973e Thunderpussy 25 2Up the arête to the break, then tackle theupper buttress.Peter Dickson, 1988r Green Groove 21 [McBirney was ‘just bouldering’ until hedecided reversing back down was toodifficult! Good moves in the V-groove leadto the blast hole, then move across intothe groove proper. Good protection can bearranged in the crack of the eliminate.Robbie McBirney (solo), September 1974t Green Groove Eliminate 23Choose the thin crack through thebuttress, moving right at the top. Rick McGregor, March 1981y Wild Gravity 24 3Start up Sneakeasy but move left at thesecond bolt and finish direct up thebuttress. Alex Palman, August 1987u Wild Gravity Direct 26Stay left of the rib all the way. Troy Stevenson, March 1996Downloaded from www.alpineclub.org.nz

Quarry Climbs: Long Side15612412357 8 9 10 1113 1416

Sneakeasy – Fuck-Knuckle 111 Sneakeasy 23 3A popular route and one of the few at theQuarry that can pass for a sport climb.Start up the wall and move right to a smallledge, then move back left and continue upthe face. Bryce Martin, June 19872 Zillmerised 29The sumptuously leaning, sloping arête. Roland Foster (solo), April 19923 Bodysnatcher 23 ]Sustained and classic bridging in theprominent peapod groove. To get there,commit to the small overhang and moveout left onto the rib. Continue up thegroove above over a bulge (crux), protectedby small but good wires.Robbie McBirney, 19744 Boys on Bikes 26‘Thinking climbing, with not a singlemean jam or hold to be found,’ said Aimer.Thinking it was unclimbed, Kim Carriganlater eyed up the line and removed severalblocks. Start up Bodysnatcher to gain thecorner.Graeme Aimer, 19835 Pig Igneous 27 [ 3The definitive version of the previousroute : a hard direct start gains the groove.Ton Snelder, 19896 Sweat 27 1At the first bolt on Pig Igneous, head upright on to the impressive buttress.Dave Vass, 19927 Heat 26 \ 2A must do. Climb the thin overhangingcrack or the buttress and insinuate yourselfinto the upper groove. Strenuous.Charlie Creese, December 19818 Legs This Wide 25 [ 2These bulging shallow grooves demandflexibility. A little run out up high, on smallbut good wires.Graeme Aimer, December 19839 Sample The Dog 26 [ 4The thin, full-length V-groove. Luke Newnham, 19900 Wired 24Reach broken ledges by climbing the wallon the left. Move back left and finish upthe groove.Rick McGregor, June 1981q Black Stump 23Gain the broken ledges from the groove onright. Continue up the thin crack above,exiting right.Robbie McBirney, 1977w The Grip Goes On 23 1From the groove of Black Stump, climbstraight up the shallow groove above, pasta bolt to the ledges above.Graeme Aimer, December 1983e The Ghost Who Walks 26 1Climb the narrow groove to the ledgeof Gothic Groove. Step back left wheredelicate moves lead to better holds.Tony Ward-Holmes, July 1986r Gothic Groove 22 [Climb the wall to the ledge and groove.Up this to scurry left across the horizontalbreak (crux) to gain ledges.Robbie McBirney, October 1975t Roo Squeaks 25This direct finish tests your ability to getinto weird positions and stay on.Alex Palman, April 1987y Fuck-Knuckle 22Climb to the shattered ledge and continueup the crack through the bulge beforemoving right into Silver Airman. Rick McGregor, March 1979Downloaded from www.alpineclub.org.nz

Quarry Climbs: Long Side11472 315 68 9 10121314 15 16

Silver Airman – Samarcand 131 Silver Airman 16 \The scene of many an Aucklander’s firstouting. Climb the ramp (or the groove,harder) to the ledge, and into the groove.Exit left, but tend right again to finish. Robbie McBirney, June 19732 Rebuilding Oscar 25 2Start up Silver Airman, then tackle thebuttress above before finishing leftwardsup the lichen. An ugly piece of work. Ton Snelder, October 19863 Smash and Grab 25 1The overhanging groove leads up to a wildmove rightwards and broken ground. Rick McGregor, February 19834 Wendy Kroy 26 1Unpleasant. Start up Sheelux but headthrough the overhang above. Ton Snelder, March 19955 Sheerlux 24 ]Truly classic. The truncated groove. At theroof move right onto the wall, finishing upthe leaning corner. Harder if you’re short.Rick McGregor, February 19796 Porkland 24 1The wide groove, finishing direct up thewall. Adequate protection, but tricky toarrange.Mike Law, April 19837 Naughty But Nice 23 1A wandering route with varied climbingwhich avoids the crux of both grooves.Climb Porkland to the jugs, then moveright to finish up the top crack of Down toEarth. Double ropes may be useful.Rick McGregor, June 19808 Down To Earth 28 1Can be a struggle. Ward-Holmes hit theground on rope-stretch 7 times. Clip thebolt with a single screwgate and anchoryour belayer in Maisola Party using wiresnear ground level. Tony Ward-Holmes, February 19929 Maisola Party 25The thin crack into a small peapod to thetop of the block. Harder if you avoid theholds on Momrath. Charlie Creese, November 19810 Momrath 19Gain the groove from either side of thegrey wall. Exit left onto the block, finishingup left-leaning ramp. Rick McGregor, June 1974q Momrath RH Finish 21 [More worthwhile than the original.Heading right gives fun moves.w Load It For Me 24 [The thin crack: fine, continous, relativelylow-angled and well-protected climbing.Rick McGregor, August 1980e Another Broken Hero 26 4The shallow groove is difficult andsustained.Rick McGregor, October 1985r Ugly Murmurs 25Can be quite ugly for the inexpertoperator. The short, blackened,overhanging groove and crack.Rick McGregor, June 1980t Kaikansu 27The arête direct, without moving right atthe top or using the Ugly Murmurs crack. Michael Welsony Samarcand 19 [The deep, fire-blackened corner is muchbetter than it looks. Rick McGregor, May 1975Downloaded from www.alpineclub.org.nz

Quarry Climbs: Long Side41236 78910

Zorn’s Lemma – Picture This 151 Zorn’s Lemma 29 [ 3The groove with just three bolts. Go for it.Roland Foster, 19912 Shoes This High 24Climb the arête to the left-hand end ofthe large ledge, then the buttress above,moving left at the top. A bit contrived, butprovides some interesting moves high up.Double ropes will help. Rick McGregor, February 19833 Revenge of the Lawn 21Climb either of the twin grooves (theright-hand is easier) to the ledge. Pull overinto the shallow groove and a fun balancecrux.Rick McGregor, March 19794 Revenge LH Finish 22Exit to the top of Shoes This High.5 Transvaal 18A wandering route, the longest at theQuarry. Commence up either of theRevenge grooves to the ledge, then traverseright across the wall to the ledge belowthe crux on Kaloo Kalay. Either climb this(19), the groove of Diddely Dick, or thegroove above Studio 54 to reach the nextledge system. Trend up and right to finishacross the slab above Thimblerigger. Robert Staveley Parker, 19786 Banshee 22 [The thin crack just gets thinner andthinner — it helps to have thin fingers. Afine climb.Robbie McBirney, May 19747 Stem the Evil Tide 22Delicate moves up the wall following thethin crack, until forced left at the top.Rick McGregor, December 19808 Suspended Animation 25 4Absolutely silly. Climb the arête and moveleft into the groove at the top. Alex Palman, November 19889 Charlie’s Arete 25The arête, up onto the ledge. Charlie Creese0 Kaloo Kalay 19Start in the short but tricky groove. Thenclimb the crack (crux) to the large ledge onthe right. Finish up the prominent crack,through the bulge onto a slab. Rick McGregor, August 1973q Diddely Dick Takes a Detour 18Shares the start of Kaloo Kalay, butcontinues up the groove just to the right tofinish up left-leaning ramps. Grant Davidson, 1982w Plumley Walker Spur 28The arête. Painful holds, nasty plunge. It’sjust not cricket. A V6 variant (Huka Falls)starts with the big left-hand side-pull.Tony Ward-Holmes, September 1991e Picture This 24The poorly-protected corner is usuallybouldered to broken ledges (crux), exitingdown Kaloo Kalay. Can also be ledfinishing up the corner above to anotherledge and twin pillars.Rick McGregor, August 1980Downloaded from www.alpineclub.org.nz

Quarry Climbs: Long Side13 2 4 5 678 9 10 11In a route description, the number of bolts refers to the total number needed to climb the route: so adirect finish with one bolt that also uses two bolts lower down will be described as having three bolts.

Studio 54 – When the Kat’s Away 171 Studio 54 26 ]Beautiful sequins. Dynamic moves up thebuttress. Charlie Creese, September 19812 Principles of Lust 21 [ 3Climb the crack until level with the secondbolt — a lewd move across the wall isfollowed by fun climbing on the arête.John van der Werff, 19943 Direct Start 26 4The contrived direct start avoids the crack.4 Thimblerigger 21 ]The groove with a thin crack in its rightside is climbed with increasing difficultyto the ledge on the right. Cross back left tothe top of Principles of Lust, or continueup the right-leaning slab. Rick McGregor, October 19755 Barracuda 22Scramble to the ledge and proceed up thethin crack to a bulge at the top (crux) andledges. Finish straight up or out right.Robbie McBirney, September 19776 Soliloquy 18 [Cracking climbing. Climb the crack direct(or, easier, swing into it from the ledgeon the left). Small ledges lead to a pull upleft onto broken ledges. Proceed up to theoverhang and finish through the notch onthe right.Robbie McBirney, July 19737 Training for Straining 25 [The splendid gothic arch. From a shatteredarea climb the strenuous but wellprotectedthin crack. Harder if you avoidthe temptation to step left onto narrowledges halfway up Soliloquy. Rick McGregor, September 19818 Bad Karma 26The arête and corner crack requiresa number of long reaches to gain thelichenous slab. Awkward to protect. Charlie Creese, December 19819 Jams O’Donnell 24 [The crack in the short, clean-cut corner.Finish up blocky terrain above. Robbie McBirney, September 19770 Tune In, Turn On, Drop Off 25Short, but strenuous moves in the 2 cornersare a challenge. Finish up Jams O’Donnellor abseil off the threaded chain. Charlie Creese, March 1981q When the Kat’s Away 26Stay in the right-hand corner all the way tothe ledge.Alex Palman, November 1988Downloaded from www.alpineclub.org.nz

Quarry Climbs: Long Side210121345 6 7 9811

Melquiades – Chasing After Charlie 191 Melquiades 24 [ 1A difficult but rewarding sequence leadsup the steep wall to a blast hole. Move leftup to the ledge. Either follow the awkwardgroove to the top (tricky to protect) orfinish up the Engineer.Robbie McBirney, September 19752 Engineer of Human Souls 24 2An excellent direct finish, takes the righthandgroove from the ledge. Luke Newnham, 19893 Zephania 27Dynamic moves up the arête. Roland Foster, 19914 Busted Bicycle 25 2Start at the shattered block and trendleftwards up the wall to the ledge. Moveback right and climb the overhanging wallto an exciting finish out left over blocks. Rick McGregor, April 19815 Splatter 24From the shattered block a difficultmove, awkward to protect, leads to theprominent ledge. Climb the fracturedpillar above to a sloping ledge and exitcarefully and diagonally left over scoria. Rick McGregor, October 19756 The Towering Inferno 25 [ 1The wide, yellow-streaked groove cappedwith an intimidating arch. Climb thegroove to its apex, then move right into athin crack to the top of the overhangingblocks. The scoria at the top will dealswiftly with the unwary. Rick McGregor, February 19837 The Frayed Ends of Sanity 23 2Straight up the right-hand edge of theTowering Inferno groove to the scoria. Alex Palman, 19898 Snatchbender 23 ] 1A classic test-piece. Stepped ledges lead upinto a groove. Climb this to its apex on theright and pull over the overhang to a wallpocket on the left. Make an awkward stepleft into the square groove and shuffle upto the overhang. Climb the overhang onthe right to a ledge and pull over the bulgeto finish.Robbie McBirney, November 19749 Snatchbender direct 23 [ 2Climb direct up the arête to the roof. Rick McGregor, January 19810 Bad Behaviour 23 [ 2Shares the start and finish ofSnatchbender, but where that route movesleft pull over the bulge and continuestraight up. Peter Dickson, 1989q Chasing After Charlie 24 [ 4Climb the shield of rock and thin crack.Move left, pull up through the bulge, andfinish up the right-leaning groove (or leftas for Snatchbender). Retrobolted. Rick McGregor, February 1983w Direct finish 24 3Finish straight up. Quite run out at thetop. Ton Snelder, December 1994Downloaded from www.alpineclub.org.nz

Quarry Climbs: Long Side521346789

Bandersnatch – ’It Man 211 Bandersnatch 19 ]A fine line. Ledges lead to the obviouscorner. Climb this to the ledge above theright-hand arête. Belay here or finish right(the original finish) or left through anoverhang (awkward).Rick McGregor, June 19742 RH Arête 22Climb the right-hand arête, using the cracksolely for protection.3 Spanish Moon 24The shallow yellow corner. It helps to betall when placing the first runners. Charlie Creese, March 19814 Pet Cemetery 27 [ 2The thin corner and rib. A 12-metre sagaof steamy stemming and violent crankingwhich relentlessly explores the obsessivethemes of guilt, lust, fear and revenge. Sothey say. The first bolt is at the site of theoriginal first knifeblade, rather than whereit was tied-off, so feel free to stick-clip.Finish up the seam with small wires.Charlie Creese, March 19825 Buttress finish 27 3Finish up the buttress, past a third bolt.6 Straight Outta Clapton 27 2Start at the base of the right side of thebuttress, boulder up to the holes, borrowthe middle moves of Pet Cemetery on theleft side, then move back right to finish upthe hanging groove.Tony Ward-Holmes, December 19917 Silver Surfer 25 ]The serrated crack encourages dynamismand boldness. Sheer masochism, butbloody great all the same. Charlie Creese, September 19818 Orangutang 19The prominent corner at the right-handend of the crag. The crux is near thebottom of the corner. At the top, cross leftand finish up the upper groove. Rick McGregor, July 19739 Night of the Crabs 20Climb the right-hand arête of Orangutangwithout recourse to the crack. Hunter Johnson (solo), January 19890 Badfinger 21From ledges, climb the corner to gainanother ledge out right (crux). Proceedover the bulge above direct on incut holds.Adequate protection can be difficult toarrange.Robbie McBirney, c 1975q Contested Corner 17Further right and higher up is an evenshorter corner. This can be climbed to itsconclusion, or exit left onto the ledge ofBadfinger and finish up right.w ‘it Man 21The thin crack on the short separate face5 m down and to the right, in the trees.Marty Beare, August 1982Downloaded from www.alpineclub.org.nz

Bouldering 23191513 1416 17 182021 2223 242526e ThunderpussyV3Start up the arete to the break.r Green GrooveV1Up the groove to the blast hole and stepleft.t Green Groove – Bodysnatcher V7A low traverse.y Livesay MadnessV3Up Wild Gravity to the ledges and thenright, staying at that height and down LegsThis Wide.Kevin Livesayu ZillmerisedV8The leaning, sloping arête underneathWild Gravity and Sneak Easy.Roland Foster, April 1992i Short TraverseV3This long, moderate traverse fromBodysnatcher to Momrath can be done ineither direction and has its moments.o MethadoneV9Face only right of Bodysnatcher start, up tosmall ledge on rightGlenn Erik Johannessenp Heat startV3Climb the initial buttress to the jugsa WiredV3Start to the ledges on the right, and backdown the start of Black Stump.s Manic ArêteV4The arête between Wired and Black Stump.s SuperbitchV6Climb the left side of the arête only,without using holds on the right of thearête or the left crack.Steve Connd Silver Airman groove V2Up the groove, straight to the ledge orexiting right.f Silver Airman buttress V1Climb the buttress and mantle the top.g Maisola PartyV2To the hold on the arete on the right.h MomrathV0Up the grey wall from the left or the right.Downloaded from www.alpineclub.org.nz

Bouldering 252116 17 18 19 20u When the Kat’s Away V5Stay in the right-hand groove all the wayto the ledge.Alex Palman, November 1988i Melquaides start V3Climb start of route to hand-jam and flathold.o ZephaniaV6Dynamic moves up the arête.Roland Foster, 1991p Towering Inferno V1To the first small ledge.a Spanish Moon – Orangutang V6This traverse can be made in eitherdirection.s Straight Out of Clapton V6Up to the holes.d Silver SurferV5The first few moves.f ’it ManV1The thin crack on the short separate face5 m down and to the right, in the trees.Marty Beare, August 19822223Downloaded from www.alpineclub.org.nz

Quarry Climbs: Short Side13 12 14 16 14 15 15 15 15 14 1114 15 15 117215 14 11 13 3 4 56 714121513 111515 14 14 1313KeyGrades 1–19Grades 20–24Grades 25+111Bolted anchorNatural gear anchor (gear, blocks or trees)Boulder problem

Secret Crack – Geoff’s Dilemma 278 9 101112The Short SideThe first section of cliff, below a bend in thedescent track, is known as the Sunny Side.There are a dozen or so routes, marked at therelevant grade on the topo opposite top.There are also two named routes:1 Secret Crack 17The prominent corner and varied crack.2 Svartmoot 16Ledges lead to the final groove and crack.The next 14 routes are marked at the relevantgrade on the photo topo to the left.Then there is an obvious pillar of rock,detached at the top. This is the DongButtress:3 Easy Street 12Climb a series of ledges up the slab to anawkward mantelshelf at the top beforemoving right to the top of the pillar.4 Smaug 14The crack to the left of Dong Buttress isclimbed direct.5 Dong 18 [The route straight up the pillar. Start justto the right of the rib, more left, and finishdirect over the overlap.6 Gog 15 [The crack to the right of Dong is climbedpast a protruding block at half height.7 Trilogy 17A variation of Gog and Magog, bridgingbetween the two to a final exciting pull-upover the overhang.8 Magog 15Up the rightwards-tending crack, withdifficulty at the top.9 Parallel Cracks 16The thin crack which splits at half height.The upper section is the crux.0 Geoff’s Dilemma 16The last crack on this short wall, mostdifficult at the top.Downloaded from www.alpineclub.org.nz

Quarry Climbs: Short Side121314 1516 17 18q TribletUngradedSwing into the drill hole from the right andclimb the thin crack by a series of awkwardpull-ups. Disappear into the forest above.w Gamgee’s Groove 10The wide groove is climbed by any numberof variations. Treat the loose soil at the topwith circumspection.e Short Crack 13As the name implies, short and simple.Continue at will above the ledge.r Boggart 19 [A classic crack. Above the small overhangat half height finish up the flake crack orescape left up the rib.t Wall of the Whinging Pom 22 [The thin crack. Start at the foot of Boggartand move across into the crack. If the thincrack immediately left of Treebeard is notutilised for the right hand, the grade is 24.y Treebeard 16 [A good crack climb, with the crux atthe bottom. The block at the top is usuallyturned on the right.u Wattle Tree Groove 15Climb the awkward small corner (crux)and continue up ledges and the wide crackabove.i Jim’s Direct 15A long reach from the ground starts theroute which climbs the face of the buttressdirect.o Wattle Tree Chimney 13A short layback to get established in thechimney. Exit left and follow a ramp tothe top.p Robbie’s Direct 17On the short wall right of the chimney aboulder problem sequence leads up to amantelshelf ledge. Escape left.a Robbie’s Dilemma 15The crack immediately to the right isclimbed to the ledge before moving off left.s Perkie’s Downfall UngradedUse either Robbie’s Direct or Robbie’sDilemma as an approach, and continue upthe right-tending groove above.

Triblet – Short Side Girdle 292226192021232425Further right a couple of metres is:d Green Machine 18Climb the shallow groove and bulge.Ian Jenkins, David Croft 1989f Magic Boots 15Climb the low-angle slab using holds nearthe right edge.g Wellington Boots 23Climb the easy ramp to the foot of thesteep wall, the start of which provides thecrux. Grade 22 if this move is bypassed byreaching in from the right.h Cheating Boots 17From the ramp on Wellington Boots stepdelicately across the next corner to thearête. The crux move establishes one onthe rib and easier climbing leads up andleft to the top.About 35m to the right, in the corner of thefield, is the highest piece of rock in this sectionof the Quarry:j Coliseum 15Climb straight up the obvious buttress,treating the rock, especially at the top,with care.To the right of the Coliseum Buttress, on theback wall of the Quarry and partially hiddenby trees, is a short wall with a small tree athalf height. This provides the following shortroute:k Minus 14Starts easily up a short corner until adifficult step-up has to be made onto asloping ledge. Continue more easily above.Descent is back down the route and outright at the bottom.For a longer route than any of the above:l The Short Side GirdleThe cliff is traversed, in either directionand generally keeping fairly low, fromEasy Street to the last of the rock rightof Cheating Boots. Cruxes are providedby the ribs at the foot of Treebeard andCheating Boots.Downloaded from www.alpineclub.org.nz

Quarry ClimbsIndex of routes by grade29Zillmerised 11Zorn’s Lemma 1528Blam, Blam, Blam 9Down To Earth 13Plumley Walker Spur 1527Faulty Logic 9Kaikansu 13Pet Cemetery 21Pet Cemetery buttress 21Pig Igneous 11Straight Outta Clapton 21Sweat 11Zephania 1926Another Broken Hero 13Bad Karma 17Boys on Bikes 11Direct Finish 7Heat 11Perennial Pipedreams 7Principles of Lust DS 17Sample The Dog 11Studio 54 17Supergroove 7The Ghost Who Walks 11Wendy Kroy 13When the Kat’s Away 17Wild Gravity Direct 9Yuppie Floosie 725Busted Bicycle 19Charlie’s Arete 15Hear No Evil 7Legs This Wide 11Maisola Party 13Morning Glory Eliminate 7Rebuilding Oscar 13Roo Squeaks 11Silver Surfer 21Smash and Grab 13Suspended Animation 15The Towering Inferno 19Thunderpussy 9Training for Straining 17Tune In Turn On Drop Off 17Ugly Murmurs 1324Bop Gun 5Chasing After Charlie 19Chasing After Charlie DF 19Dekcuf 5Desolation Angel 7Effort, Money and Time 9Engineer of Human Souls 19Jams O’Donnell 17Load It For Me 13Melquiades 19Picture This 15Porkland 13Sheerlux 13Shoes This High 15Spanish Moon 21Splatter 19The Raven 5Wild Gravity 9Wired 1123Bad Behaviour 19Black Stump 11Bodysnatcher 11Diddely Dick 9Green Groove Eliminate 9Naughty But Nice 13Snatchbender 19Snatchbender direct 19Sneakeasy 11The Frayed Ends of Sanity 19The Grip Goes On 11Wellington Boots 2922Bandersnatch RH Arete 21Banshee 15Barracuda 17Biggles Sucks a Kumara 9Fuck-Knuckle 11Gothic Groove 11Revenge LH Finish 15Stem the Evil Tide 15Wall of the Whinging Pom 2821’it Man 21Badfinger 21Biggles Flies West 9Green Groove 9Momrath RH Finish 13Principles of Lust 17Revenge of the Lawn 15Thimblerigger 1720Brain Damage 5Kamikaze Krack 7Night of the Crabs 21Shitbox Klingons 719Bandersnatch 21Boggart 28Kaloo Kalay 15Momrath 13Orangutang 21Samarcand 13Tears For Fears 718Dalrymple’s Groove 9Deffust 7Diddlely Dick Takes ADetour 15Dong 27Green Machine 29Moral Dilemma 7Nutless 9Playing Chicken 7Soliloquy 17Transvaal 15

31Index of boulder problems17Cheating Boots 29Contested Corner 21Dalrymple’s Groove LHFinish 9Graveyard Groove 9Koruba 9Robbie’s Direct 28Secret Crack 27Trilogy 2716Cliff Smith’s Corner 5False Induction 5Geoff ’s Dilemma 27Nutcracker 9Parallel Cracks 27Silver Airman 13Svartmoot 27Treebeard 2815Casual Regression 5Coliseum 29Gog 27Jim’s Direct 28Magic Boots 29Magog 27Robbie’s Dilemma 28Wattle Tree Groove 2814Minus 29Smaug 2713Short Crack 28Wattle Tree Chimney 2812Easy Street 2710Gamgee’s Groove 28UngradedPerkie’s Downfall 28The Short Side Girdle 29Triblet 28V9Methadone 23Scott’s Arete 22V8Plumley Walker Spur 24The Long Side Traverse 22Zillmerised 23I C Lightning U C Crack 24V7Green Groove –Bodysnatcher 23V6Blam, Blam, Blam 22Huka Falls 24Kaikansu 24Straight Out of Clapton 25Superbitch 23Zephania 25Momrath –Shoes This High 24Moral Dilemma –The Blam 22Spanish Moon –Orangutang 25V5Another Broken Hero 24Silver Surfer 25Studio 54 24When the Kat’s Away 25Zorn’s Lemma 24Busted Bicycle 24V4Boulevard Peripherique 22Charlie’s Arete 24Manic Arete 23Perennial Pipedreams 22Supergroove 22Tune In Turn On Drop Off 24Banshee – Diddley Dick 24V3Bop Gun 22Heat 23Melquaides start 25Thunderpussy 23Wired 23Livesay Madness 23Short Traverse 23V2Maisola Party 23Shoes This High 24Silver Airman groove 23Yuppie Floosie 22V1’it Man 25Banshee 24Deffust direct start 22Green Groove 23Silver Airman buttress 23Towering Inferno 25V0Kaloo Kalay 24Kamikaze Krack 22Momrath 23Revenge of the Lawn left 24VMRevenge of the Lawn right 24Downloaded from www.alpineclub.org.nz

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