New Zealand Alpine Club

New Zealand Alpine Clubannual report 2008

New Zealand Alpine Club Annual Report 2008New Zealand Alpine Clubannual report 2008Registered offices of the New Zealand Alpine Club (Inc.).Unit 6, 6 Raycroft St, Opawa, Christchurch.PO Box 786, Christchurch 8015, New Zealand.Telephone +64 3 377 7595 | Facsimile +64 3 377 7594E-mail office@alpineclub.org.nz | Web www.alpineclub.org.nzLayout and design by Mark Watson for the NZ Alpine Club.NEW ZEALANDALPINE CLUBContent compiled by Ollie Clifton.NZAC is recognised as aNational Recreation Organisationand receives support fromSport and Recreation New Zealandnew zealand alpine clubObjective Statement‘The objectives of the Club are to encourage mountaineering, rock climbingand allied activities, the enjoyment and conservation of mountain and rockclimbing regions and to bring together those interested in climbing.The Club aims to provide services for climbers, protect the interests andsafety of climbers, and promote climbing activities.’

Contents02 Club Office Bearers03 President’s Report05 Obituaries06 The Year in Retrospect16 New Zealand Climbing Activity23 New Zealanders Overseas26 Treasurer’s Report27 Statement of Financial Position28 Statement of Financial Performance30 Notes to the Annual Accounts33 Financial Graphs35 Auditor’s Report36 Agenda agm 200837 Minutes agm 200741 Proxy Form42 Appendix: nzac RulesCover photo: Jonathan Clearwaterclimbing on the Mate’s LittleBrother, Darran Mountains.Inside front cover: (Untitled) by TonyRac. Acceptance, Alpine Nature,NZAC Photographic Competition2008.Contents page: Ocean of cloudon Mt Sefton, Justin Robinson.Acceptance, Alpine General, NZACPhotographic Competition 2008.

New Zealand Alpine Club Annual Report 2008Club Office BearersPresident Phil DooleImmediate Past President Judy ReidHon Treasurer Gillian CrombieHonorary Secretary Jocelyn DouglasHeadquarters Subcommittee Chair Geoff GabitesPublications Subcommittee Convener Rob BrownAccommodation Subcommittee Convener Tony ClarkeAuditor Pauline NoonanNorth Island Vice President John JordanSouth Island Vice President Keith MoffattStaffExecutive Officer Ollie CliftonPublications Editor Mark WatsonAdministration Officer Margaret McMahonActivities Coordinator Chris NorthEvents Coordinator Heather TateSection RepresentativesAuckland Deryn Williams, Allan MacLachlan. CentralNorth Island Richard Knott. Taranaki John Jordan.Wellington James Wright. Nelson/Marlborough ChrisShort. Canterbury/Westland Phillip Tree, Grant Piper.South Canterbury Ian Rogers. North Otago NickShearer. Otago Paul Prince, Kyle Beggs. SouthlandVonnie Crawford. Australia Paul Day.Guiding on Mt Cook, Mary Hobbs. Alpine Activity, Acceptance,NZAC Photographic Competition 20082

President’s ReportThe most significant event for the Club during the2007/08 year was the farewell to Sir Edmund Hillaryduring January. Sir Ed was New Zealand’s best knownmountaineer, world renown for his success on MtEverest with the 1953 British Expedition and the supportthat he gave to the Sherpa communities in Nepal.We provided an honour guard for his State Funeral inAuckland and held a less formal ‘mountaineers farewell’in Auckland Domain after the funeral. The honour guardof 40 people was able to fully represent New Zealand’smountaineering fraternity—men and women, young andold, guides and recreational climbers, and our kindredmountain clubs in Sir Ed’s home town. Sir Ed’s funeralbrought together all of the surviving members of the 1953Expedition, and many others who had spent time withEd during his long and adventurous life. I thank all thosewho shared their memories and reflections on the day.I also acknowledge the efforts of our Past-Presidents,Auckland Section members and our national office staffin organising these two events, as well as the specialtribute in issue 63 of The Climber magazine, enabling theClub to give Sir Ed such a fitting farewell.Many other members also died this year; most, like SirEd, had long and active lives. But unfortunately severalyounger members were killed in climbing accidents ordied suddenly from natural causes. Their loss has beenhard, and we will remember them all with esteem.In May 2008 the Club Committee elected GeorgeBand, a member of the 1953 Everest Expedition, to honorarymembership of nzac, recognising his climbingachievements and his support for New Zealand mountaineeringexpeditions over many years. Richard (Dick)Price was elected a life member recognising his climbingachievements and his contribution to mountain medicineand support for expeditions.A review of the Club’s rules was adopted at the last agmin May 2007, changing the financial year to July–June andmaking several other refinements to the way the Club isgoverned and administered. Those changes have beenimplemented over the 16 months of this transitional year.During that time I have visited the Taranaki,Auckland, Otago, Canterbury/Westland and SouthCanterbury Sections, plus the summer climbing camp,as well as continuing involvement with the NelsonMarlborough Section. The Sections provide the bulk ofthe sharp-end activities run by the Club, and those of usinvolved with Club administration at national level arevery clear that Sections must be supported, as and whenneeded, by the national office and convenors. We alsohave to keep in mind that the Club is one legal entity,meaning that we all have a shared responsibility for managingrisks and striving to maintain high standards acrossall our activities.With regard to Club instruction activities, we are makingprogress toward adopting a benchmarking and auditprocess to help ensure that we are meeting quality and risk3

New Zealand Alpine Club Annual Report 2008standards. This is important, and potentially critical to thefuture of our instruction services, in the context of a pushfrom some within the outdoor recreation sector to requirevolunteer instructors to be formally qualified. The Club’sposition is that such qualifications should not be mandatory—butthe flip side of the coin being that we actively,and regularly, review all of our instruction capability.This past year has seen a surge in advocacy activity,especially with considering and making submissionson management plans for national parks. Also, theDepartment of Conservation (doc) has begun reviewsof the Conservation Management Strategies (cms) thatare intended to direct how the vast conservation estateoutside of the national parks, much of it being mountaincountry, is to be managed for the future. Despiteconcerns expressed by the New Zealand ConservationAuthority, which approves the cms’s, doc appears intenton watering-down the content of these strategies—mainly,they say, to allow more flexibility with their implementation.But if they become too broad, or too flexiblethen the cms’s will be of little real value, and a waste ofeveryone’s time and effort to prepare. We are workingclosely with the Executive of the Federated MountainClubs to address this issue.When I took on this role I became concerned at anapparent slippage in the Club’s financial performance,with cash surpluses diminishing despite continuinggrowth in Club membership. The operating result forDescending to Marcel Col, Lachlan Shaw. Acceptance, Alpine Activity,NZAC Photographic Competition 2008.4

the 12 month year to February 2008 was a loss (when thedonations for the various reserve funds are deducted).Additional income in the 4-month period to June 2008provided a much improved final result. It is difficult tocompare past years results because they all have individualvariations. However, in my view, the diminishing surpluseshave been caused by increased expenditure acrossall of the national activities, without correspondingincreases in revenue. We have attempted to reverse thistrend in the 2008/09 budget that was adopted by the ClubCommittee in May. Time will tell. I appreciate the effortsthat have been made to improve the financial reportingsystems for national office over recent years.The operating surpluses have been a major sourceof funds for the huts reserve, bolstered in recent yearsby the revenue from the Banff Mountain Film festivalscreenings around the country. There is likely to alwaysbe a degree of uncertainty regarding future requirementsObituariesDarran Cathcart 1971-2006 Canterbury/WestlandRalph Naylor 1923-2007 Central North IslandMargaret Cookson 1920-2007 Canterbury/WestlandDon Hutton 1938-2007 OtagoJohn Stanton 1946-2007 Canterbury/WestlandAlister McDonald 1932-2007 SouthlandArthur Tschepp 1927-2007 North OtagoKeith Isherwood 1939-2007 WellingtonW Trevor Park 1928-2007 Wellingtonfor the Clubs accommodation portfolio. Several huts faceuncertain futures because of glacier recession and changingusage patterns. Further progress has been made withdeciding on a redevelopment plan for Unwin Lodge atAoraki/Mt Cook National Park, now moving to a fundraisingphase. I see this project as being the major challengefor the Club over the next few years.We have started a review of the Club’s 2005–2010strategic plan which will be considered at the ClubCommittee meeting in October and made available formembers input after that.Thanks again to all Club officers, convenors, committeemembers, volunteer organisers, leaders and instructors,and our national office staff, for the huge contributionyou’ve all made to the past year’s achievements. Ihave enjoyed taking part in many Club activities duringthe past 16 months and look forward to seeing many ofyou over the coming year.Phil DooleHamish McDonald 1971-2007 SouthlandAnton Wopereis 1953-2008 OtagoSir Edmund Hillary kg, onz, kbe 1919-2008 AucklandJack Rattenbury 1918-2008 AucklandJack Ede qsm 1916-2008 Canterbury/WestlandLeon Phease 1989-2008 OtagoBeverley Williamson 1920-2008 AucklandGottleib Braun-Elwert 1949-2008 Canterbury/Westland5

New Zealand Alpine Club Annual Report 2008The Year In RetrospectPublicationsPublications encompasses magazine, journal, guidebooks,books, library, website, office projects and signage. 2008has been marked by a swing towards greater efforts inthe marketing and distribution of our Club publications,and less of a focus on guidebook production. Much ofthe impetus for this change in direction for Publicationshas been financial—the 2007–2008 financial year has seena significant drop in guidebook sales. Hence we eagerlyanticipate the introduction of online purchasing to theClub website, and have put in place a number of initiativesto enhance our wholesaler relationships.Despite this change of emphasis, the Club publishedtwo highly noteworthy guidebooks this year. The first ofthese could hardly have had a longer gestation period—Moirs South has been eagerly anticipated by the outdoorscommunity for a number of years. So it was with muchsatisfaction that the Great Southern Lakes Press, in associationwith nzac, were able to put the seventh editionof Moirs South out into the marketplace in November2007. A special thanks to Robin McNeil for his tirelesswork in editing this guidebook. By comparison, oursecond guidebook of the year was a relatively quick delivery.Penny Goddard made rapid work of her AvalancheAwareness in the New Zealand Backcountry—with a finalpush in the design and layout from nzac PublicationsEditor Mark Watson, another great publication was born.Avalanche Awareness has been met with rave reviewsand has sold very well indeed.Congratulations to the authors and all who contributedto these projects. Thanks also to Margaret McMahonat national office who handles the distribution onslaughtsuperbly and contributes strongly to marketing of nzacpublications.The Club’s library continues to evolve into a significantcollection, largely based on donations from Clubmembers. The Club acknowledges recent donations ofbooks from George Band, Rod Dicksen, Ivan Pickens,Dave Bamford, Warren Soufflot, Stephen Barker, KenLefever, Tony Gates, Joan Brock, Ben Winnubst, NancyCawley, Arnold Heine, Bob Barrack, Don French, DaveBanfield, John Cocks, and Rosemarie Smith.The Climber continues to amaze with the quality of itsarticles and photographs and its attractive layout. EditorMark Watson and his support team continue to deliver agreat magazine to members and the climbing community.Thanks Mark and team. The Climber continues to sellsteadily in retail stores and attracts strong support fromadvertisers. The Climber 61 signalled a revamped designand art direction for the magazine, and more recentlyadvertising rates have been raised 10–15% in line withincreasing production costs.The 2007 New Zealand Alpine Journal, edited by MarkWatson was again illustrated in full colour, albeit at theexpense of lighter paper, a thinner cover and a slightreduction in page count. Overall it was yet another excel-6

lent effort—thanks to all contributors and to Mark fora fine record of New Zealand climbing. The journalincludes logos of several organisations that assist theClub. We are grateful for their continued support.Looking to the future, two guidebooks are scheduledfor completion in 2009. John Cocks and others areresearching and writing text on climbing in the Earnslawregion to be included in an expanded Mt Aspiringregion guidebook. Geoff Spearpoint and Yvonne Cookare researching and writing text for a new guidebook tocover the mountains in the area between Mt Cook andArthur’s Pass National Parks. Publication of those twoguidebooks will largely complete guidebook coverage ofthe New Zealand mountains.nzac Publications continue to provide members withsome of the most important ingredients of the climbingexperience—essential information and tales of inspiration.Thanks to all who contributed in the past year tomake nzac publications outstanding.Ollie Clifton (on behalf of Rob Brown)AccommodationIt’s been yet another challenging year for theAccommodation Committee managing the network ofbase lodges and mountain huts. Unfortunately the yearbegan with Garth London having to stand down from theposition of Convener due to family and work commitments.Many thanks to Garth for all the time, energy andsupport over the last two years.The cost of running the network and achieving adequatereserves for deferred maintenance and new capitalprojects remain our biggest challenge. In this light volunteerismremains the backbone of maintaining the network.A fine example of this is the excellent work doneby various work parties at Ruapehu Hut, repairing andrepainting the cladding extending its life for a number ofyears. A debt of gratitude is owed to all those who volunteertheir valuable time to this end.Base lodge usage was very strong particularly at HomerHut, although fee compliance and security has been anissue. The committee is investigating various initiatives toimprove fee compliance and relieve difficulties in managingthe network. The lease of Porter Lodge has also beensecured for another twenty years.At long last there is visible progress at Unwin Lodge.The re-cladding and re-roofing of the wardens quartersis now complete along with the re-roofing of the mainbuilding. The re-cladding of the main building is proposedfor this summer. This work represents a significantcapital investment, without which, deterioration of thebuilding structure was inevitable. Significant progress hasalso been made on the fundraising strategy for the futurebunkroom wing development and we are starting toapproach interested parties.Glacial access seems to be an ever increasing issueand usage of some of our high huts are key indicators ofthis. The capital plan has been revised to reflect this andfuture significant work and replacement of Murchisonand De La Beche huts has been moved from mediumto long term. Along with the continuing work at UnwinLodge, other capital projects in the short to medium7

New Zealand Alpine Club Annual Report 2008term include the reconfiguration of the bunk layout atPioneer Hut, and reconstruction of the toilet systems atboth Pioneer and Centennial Huts.Looking forward and given the increasing financialpressure we face, it seems timely that we take stock of ourposition and investigate the future financial sustainabilityof the huts network. I suspect 2009 will be just as busy asthe last.Tony ClarkeRecreation AdvocacyThe Recreation Advocacy Committee had a busy2007/2008 year monitoring and submitting on policydocuments, conservation park proposals and applicationsfor consent/concession, all of which have the potential toaffect nzac members’ activities in the backcountry. Theprofessional backgrounds of Committee members, havingexperience in working with doc and other agencies, isbecoming increasingly important as recreational and conservationplanning becomes as contentious as ever. Goodrelationships with agencies enables the Club to maximizeits voice and maintain its integrity.Over the past year doc has initiated the review a numberof Conservation Management Strategies (cms’s). Withguidance from local Sections, the Committee lodged submissions/feedbackon the West Coast Te Tai o Poutini,Wanganui (Mt Taranaki) and Canterbury cms reviews.Common themes with Club submissions included: 1)Preserving the wilderness values and natural characterof the alpine backcountry for mountain recreationalists,and 2). Managing motorised access, including air access,which has the potential to significantly compromise theopportunities for traditional recreation activities.Following an invitation from the New ZealandConservation Authority, the Club provided feedback onthe draft framework/template for future cms documents.In summary, while acknowledging the need for a cmstemplate/framework review, and its intended benefits,the Club outlined serious concerns regarding the waythe Director-General has chosen to interpret the requirementsfor preparing cms’s, and the apparent trend fordoc to develop ‘guidelines’ outside of the cms framework.Specific management provisions for the doc estate outsideof the national parks are believed to be lacking, possiblyto the determent of recreation / conservation values.In mid-2008 the issue of alpine bolting was hotly debatedwithin mountaineering circles. Debate came aboutfollowing the placement of bolts on the North West Ridgeof Mt Aspiring/Tititea without doc permission. Feedbackfrom the mountain community (both guides and amateurclimbers) was significant, and while views were mixed,many stated that bolting on a mountain like Mt Aspiring,and a route like the North West Ridge, is unnecessary,inappropriate and would changed the feel of the mountain.While the bolts have since been removed, the issueremains and will no doubt raise its head again. Whilenzac cannot control bolting in the mountains, it will lookto form an alpine bolting policy, and provide feedbackon doc’s ‘Code of Practice for Alpine Bolting’, a draft ofwhich is expected to be available in late 2008.In June 2008 the Committee prepared a lengthy sub-8

mission in opposition to an application by a helicopteroperator for resource consent to land helicopters at 121locations around Mount Aspiring National Park andadjoining areas. Proposed landing sites, many of whichdo not have doc concession to land, included SharksTooth, Mt Bonpland, Kerin Forks Hut, French RidgeHut, Esquilant Bivy and Mt Humboldt. As many (but notall) of the new landing sites sought by the application areknown for their wildness and remoteness, the Committeeprepared a submission identifying that the remote experienceof trampers, mountaineers and other recreationalenthusiasts will be significantly affected.The Committee welcomed the proposed OteakeConservation Park, north west of Naseby, by making asubmission to DoC to support its formation. The formationof a conservation park, with suitable and enforceablemanagement guidelines, will increase the potential fortramping, ski touring and mountain biking opportunities.In an attempt to make the Committee’s work more visibleto members, and to get feedback from members, theCommittee is ensuring that updates on involvement andinitiatives are provided in The Climber magazine and onthe Club’s website. Discussion, debate and feedback frommembers is very important to forming an informed Clubposition.Peter BarnesInstructionThis year has seen a new convenor come into the instructionrole with all the associated challenges of gettingto grips with the landscape. The biggest challenge hasbeen teasing out what the role of the Club is in relationto instruction. After much deliberation and discussionamongst various members it is clear that we must refocuson instruction that gives members a safe quality start totheir climbing career and utilise partnerships to assist ourexperienced members develop technical expertise.It has been a very successful year with over 940 studentinstructiondays logged throughout the 2007–2008 year,a healthy increase on the year before. Club instructioncontinues to be an essential part of maintaining the vitalityof the Club with initiatives like our national boltingworkshops again a great success this past year. Instructionhelps us to increase membership, introducing new peopleto climbing and offering existing members a chance tobrush up on their skills.In recent times a review of instruction and leadershippractices in New Zealand, lead by Outdoors New Zealand,has raised significant questions about the ability of volunteerorganisations to carry out these roles. The OutdoorLeader Standards and Qualifications Alignment Project(olqap) aimed to bring volunteer, vocational, and educationalsectors together to create a single framework forleadership and instruction in the outdoors. The nzac hasbeen part of this project and voiced its strong view aboutthe role and value of volunteer instruction. The projecthas stumbled in the past few months with stakehold-9

New Zealand Alpine Club Annual Report 2008ers unable to find common ground. nzac will continueworking as part of this project in the coming year.On this note and as part of future-proofing our instructionthe Club has begun its own review of its practiceswith some initial groundwork having been undertakenaround developing a new framework for instruction toguide all activities nationally and in sections. Sectionshave recently been invited to offer their contributions tothis process which will include benchmarking our coursesagainst best practice in partnership with the MountainSafety Council and others in the outdoor recreation sector.The coming year looks like a busy one as we forge apathway forward, ensuring the Club maintains its place inthe national instruction landscape.Chris ShortRock climbingThe 2007/2008 period has been very positive yet challengingwith demand for bolts out stripping supply and asteady number of strong proposals for the bolting fund.Notable achievements are summarised below:Bolting fundThe NZAC bolting fund was set up a number of yearsago with the intention of replacing old bolts and belayson crags around New Zealand. While this is the mainobjective of the bolting fund it is worth noting that therock climbing committee does consider applications fornew routes in new areas to encourage development.In the past year grants or bolts have been given to EdLiddle for rebolting at Mount Somers, Silvano Lorandifor rebolting at Matai Quarry and Cable Bay, Tom Hoylefor rebolting at Hanging Rock and Beautiful Valley, BrainAlder for rebolting at the Cave, Murray Judge who isgoing to do some rebolting this spring at Mount Somersand Tom Johns and co who are bolting at the newlydeveloped Mangaokewa Crag.The Rock Climbing Committee would like to encouragethose with an interest in re-bolting existing crags toput a proposal together. Have a look at the Club websitefor the application form.Bolts and hangersSouthern Approach has again been very supportive inallowing the Club to purchase hangers at a very reasonablerate. Demand for hangers has been extremely highwith the development of Mangaokewa Crag and furtherdevelopments of Babylon in the Darrans. The Club haspurchased larger amounts of stock in anticipation of furtherdemand over the coming summer.NZAC National Bouldering SeriesThis year the nzac National Bouldering Series wascoordinated by Chris North our nzac activities coordinator.This worked well as we were able to strengthenthe link between the events and the Club by retainingownership. Amie Jones won the Expert Female category,James Morris won the Expert Male, the top Junior Malewas Shea Croft and the top Junior Female was KatilinO’Reilly.A big thankyou to our sponsors Bivouac, Chalkydigits,Marvelox, Tools of the Adventure and Em’s PowerCookies.10

National Bolting workshopsBuilding on the success of last year’s workshops we arerunning two bolting workshops in November 2008. Thefirst workshop is going to be held at Mangaokewa Cragon the 22nd and 23rd and the second will be held aroundChristchurch on the 29th and 30th.Kristen FoleyExecutive CommitteeThe main function of the Executive Committee is to overseethe operations of National Office. The nzac continuesto be well served by its full and part time employment. Thepast 24 months have strongly focused back on the clubssection level capability and the need to have this supported,as well as growing the full time professional administrationbase for the section volunteers to be supported by.Staff and EmploymentCurrently we employ three full time staff and split a 40%person between the Events and Instruction roles. OllieClifton operates as the Executive Officer, serving the roleof co-ordinator for the past two years across the manydiverse committees the nzac operates with. MargaretMcMahon has now been with the Club since 2001 and herrole has increased significantly in complexity and volumeas membership grows and new benefits are introduced. AsPublications Editor, Mark Watson has continued to cementnzac’s position as the premier mountaineering organizationthrough the various publications and consistentbranding that he oversees. Chris North and Heather Tatejob share a part-time position that provides an oversightand development of the Instruction portfolio as well asmany of the Events that the club gets directly involved with.Remuneration and DevelopmentThe club’s employment policy has been to tread a linebetween professionalism and volunteerism. Our paid staffare full time professionals and we must continue to recognisethis in the pay rates that are market linked. Across thishowever is a reality that for some the work role is drivenby the same passion that our volunteer base demonstrates.Weekends and hours beyond the normal 9.00 am–5.00 pmare in fact the norm and I firmly believe we are well servedwith our team of professionals.SPARC TrainingFurther to last years programme, sparc have provided abroad based training programme aimed at building capabilitiesand skills. These courses often deal with big pictureissues such as Strategic Planning and Governance and it hasbeen heartening to see section members joining the participationand bringing those skills back to the club—at bothsection and committee levels.IssuesStaff turnover is always a potential issue and we are nowfaced with securing a replacement for Mark Watson asPublications Editor. Like other roles within the organization,the nzac needs to understand the concern at finding askill set to match where Mark has journeyed. As work loadgrows, incumbents evolve their work skills to cope with themountain of work involved. The reality inevitably is thatit becomes impossible to match the skills to that role andthat level and either the role is split or we are faced with theneed to raise the salary level. The ccm needs to be aware11

New Zealand Alpine Club Annual Report 2008that an increased payroll may be on the horizon as keyroles evolve and are replaced.As a final comment, I wish to thank our staff for theirdedication and commitment in what is a very difficult roleand fine line between supporting and taking over in theClubs administration. For them there is often little feedbackand acknowledgement and I urge any member dealingwith any of the staff to take the time to get to know the staffand give some positive feedback when they experience yetagain, work extremely well done.Geoff GabitesEventsThe nzac continues to provide a range of services for themembership which provide a focus for section and clubpromotion. These events are usually operated at section/local level with the background administrative support ofthe National Office where requested.Photographic CompetitionThis event has continued to grow and now attracts asignificant range of sponsorship, creating a very vibrantoutcome. Volunteer judges provide the final decisionmaking and the winners are increasingly utilised withinthe various club publications.National Bouldering SeriesThe nbs operates under the club national umbrellathough managed by passionate coordinators and officials‘on the day’. The event has always been highlighted as animportant bridge from the indoor wall arena to the worldof bouldering, rock climbing and the broader alpinismthe club has traditionally been involved in.Climbing CampThe annual Christmas climbing camp provides an excellentmeans of bringing together section members fromaround the country and overseas in a family friendlyenvironment. The workload is split with sections and theNational Office, and in moving around each year thisevent provides a healthy spotlight on diverse regions.Our infrastructure support has continually increased andlast years camp at the Hopkins Valley was voted highlysuccessful by the 100+ members who attended.Banff Mountain Film Festival (BMFF)The bmff remains one of the clubs most valuable fundraising activities, providing a means of section promotionand fundraising for those sections involved. The financialreturn has grown in most areas and all committeesacknowledge the vote of thanks for the volunteer corewho run the event. Future returns will always vary with avariable exchange rate given the amount paid as a licensingfee.New Zealand Mountain Film Festival (NZMFF)Given the difficulty in making the budgets work in smallercentres, a partnership has been developed with thenzmff organisers in Wanaka. This film festival providesan opportunity to take the films to a broader sectionaudience due to a lower cost structure. Importantly, thisFilm Festival must develop its own standing and reputation,and importantly cannot be allowed to detract fromthe success of the Banff Mountain Film Festival. To thatend a very different selection and duration of films havebeen selected and the timing for the event focused on late12

Mt Cook, David Maruiz. Acceptance, Alpine General. NZAC Photographic Competition 200813

New Zealand Alpine Club Annual Report 2008winter/spring. This year 2008 will see the nzmff trialledin four locations with smaller sections being the focus ofthe following year.Expedition FundThe Club has provided support to overseas expeditionsand climbing trips organised by members. Assistance hastaken the form of a letter of introduction, endorsementof an application for sponsorship purposes and the provisionof information and useful contacts. The amountof financial assistance is dependent on the level of donationsmade by Club members. We encourage donationsbecause helping members to climb overseas can give areal impetus to New Zealand mountaineers, as well asproviding stimulating Section evenings and articles in theJournal or Climber on the return of the climbers.This year grants were made to:• Paul Hersey, Graham Zimmerman, Shelley Hersey,Yew Jin Tan – Harturtay, Kyrgyzstan, 2008: $1500• Penny Goddard – Mt Everest, 2008: $1000• James Dempster, Sarah O’Donohue , AaronGillespe, Maliaka Davies, Hamish Reid, Alex Alexiades –Apolobamba 2008: $1800• Pat Deavoll – Beka Brakkai Chhok, Pakistan, 2008:$1,000• Steve Eastwood and Scott Windle, Donakposang SkiMountaineering Expedition, Tibet 2008: $1500 (deferreduntil 2009).Following the burst of activity based around the sparcHillary Expedition in 2007, it was good to see a numberof expeditions this year. Many of these trips also receivedfunding from the Mt Everest Foundation and other overseasgrants.Brian AlderUIAAThe Club is a member of uiaa (InternationalMountaineering and Climbing Federation). Over thelast two years much of uiaa’s energy has been channeledinto structural changes and these are ongoing. It ishoped that, once the changes are bedded down, uiaa willbe better equipped to be an effective voice for climbersinternationally especially on issues of mountain protectionand access, and will continue to promote its rangeof activities including youth climbing. The Club needsto take better advantage of the services that uiaa offers,but equally we should be prepared to contribute inareas where we have peculiar expertise. John Nankervisattended the last General Assembly in Matsumoto, Japanand will attend the 2008 Assembly in Tehran, Iran. It ishoped that further reciprocal hut arrangements may bedeveloped through this point of contact with overseasclubs and federations.John Nankervis14

Climbers on Mt Cook, Andrew Peacock. Acceptance, Alpine General. NZAC Photographic Competition 200815

New Zealand Alpine Club Annual Report 2008New Zealand Climbing ActivityDarran MountainsThe wealth of unclimbed rock and the exposure providedby the new (2006) guidebook to the Darrans regioncontinues to encourage new heights of activity in this primordialclimbing area.Most of the activity in the Darrans region the pastseason was centred on the sport climbing crags of theCleddau Valley: Chasm, Babylon and Little Babylon.These crags are drawing a new generation of climbers tothe Darrans, and are helping to popularise the Darrans asa diverse climbing destination with massive potential forhard free climbing, both on the valley crags and ‘up high’.Little Babylon in particular has been the talk of thesport climbing community and in this case you shouldbelieve the hype. Little Babylon is unquestionably thejewell in the crown of New Zealand sport climbing, featuringperfect rock, a unique montane forest ambienceand an all-round user-friendliness that makes it a funplace to hang out. Discovered by Paul Rogers and KesterBrown the crag has since had enough energy to power aSaturn V rocket poured into it and the result is a brace oftop quality sport routes from grades 24–33.The trio of Richard Thomson, Richard Turner andDave Vass continue to be responsible for the most noteworthyremote climbs of the season. On a single trip inlate February the team flew into Turners Bivvy, walkedto the Turners Eyrie bivouac and made an excursion outto the isolated and barely known peak Ngai Tahu, wherethey climbed a new 10-pitch route (500m) on the previouslyunclimbed (and barely seen) north face. Runnersand belays were reportedly scarce. Ngai On All Nightwas graded (iv, 21) (the Roman numeral representing acommitment grade [i–vi] that is currently being adoptedin New Zealand). With time on their hands the trio alsocompleted their long term project on the south face ofMakere. Previous attempts to climb the striking arêteline directly have all ended at a difficult and committingstretch of climbing. This time the arête was gained viaa traverse from the left, bypassing the direct start. TheHornley Arête is graded iii, 21 (350m)—and a direct startawaits someone bold enough.Matt Quirke and Mark Watson based themselves atPhil’s Biv (Moraine Creek) for a week in January, climbinga new 13-pitch route (650m) ground-up on the northface of Marian over two days. Electric Earth is only thethird line on this massive face and turned out to be easierclimbing than the pair expected. With the second carryinga drill, the pair placed a bolt at each belay to facilitateeasy descent and to open up access to the swathesof unclimbed clean rock on the face. Graded iii, 19, theroute features interesting, technical crux pitches interspersedwith easier, scrambling sections. The whole linecan be abseiled on bolts from the summit ridge.Murray Ball and Nick Cradock also visited the valleyin January, climbing a new beginners slab route on theGreat White slabs. Nothing Ventured Nothing Gained has16

Bruce Dowrick on a Little Babylon project. Derek Thatcher.17

New Zealand Alpine Club Annual Report 2008The Hornley Arête, south face ofMakere. Dave Vass.four pitches at 14, 16, 16, 16. They also climbed a new twopitchroute nearby.Closer to Homer Hut Derek Thatcher and JamieVinton-Boot returned to an incomplete project from theprevious year on the Mates Little Brother. The four pitchline (140m), named Revelations, has pitches of 27, 26, 25and 20.On the left side of the Mates Little Brother NickCradock, with Murray Ball and Glen Einham establishedWhere’s My Epirb? (18, 21, 21, 21) with a mixture of boltsand natural pro.Late in the season Martin Wilson and Hugh Barnardflew into a lake-side camp on the granite ridge betweenthe southern Llawrenny Peak and Terror Peak (1786m),climbing a six pitch route, War on Terror, on TerrorPeak, with a crux of 21. The pair also climbed two twopitchroutes on the perfect granite slabs rising from thelake at their camping spot.Bruce Dowrick and Martin Wilson have togetheropened up a new wall with significant potential formulti-pitch routes, just across the fiord from the MilfordAirport—watch this space for some significant routes inthe future. Dubbed the Airport Wall the pair have fixedover 500m of rope on the route.Winter was marked not with climbing success, butwith tragedy, when Te Anau climber Hamish MacDonaldwas killed after an abseil anchor failure while he andclimbing partner Stephen Skelton were descending froman attempt on Cul de Sac on Mt Crosscut. Earlier inthe season the pair had climbed a new winter route inMacpherson Cirque. Midnight Cowboy takes a spur outof the cirque, beside Talbots Ladder.QueenstownWinter in the Queenstown/Wakatipu region saw a fewnew routes climbed and a greater focus on the technical.The mixed climbing boom has taken a firmer grip inthis area than anywhere else in the country, with manysingle pitch and short multi-pitch mixed routes beingestablished.On the south-west buttress of Double Cone(Remarkables), Aaron Ford and Rupert Gardiner18

climbed the eight pitch Ikon (m6, 350m). The route wasclimbed onsight, with natural pro. Reportedly the gear isgood and the rock very solid, giving confidence for thedry tool moves.The pair also established The Gambler (m7) on theBoarder Crag at Lake Alta. In the Alta Cirque is a cragcalled Terminator, here Sally and Aaron Ford and RupertGardiner climbed a new line called Cold November Rain(m3, wi3, 80m). Off the beaten track Dave Bolger andGlen Aspin climbed a new line on Major Peak in theRichardson Mountains. South Taranaki (wi3, 60m) wasan epic to get to in deep snow. The ice in this area can beseen from the road, and more potential exists.At Wye Creek Aaron Ford climbed a new mixed lineleft of last season’s Rebirth of Cool at around m7. Also atWye, Kester Brown and Jono Clarke bolted a two-pitchroute. They climbed the first pitch at around m7 and thesecond is an open project still (m9ish). This past winterMatt Quirke repeated Kester Brown’s Wye Creek mixedtest piece Northern Exposure (m11) in four tries over twodays.There is currently a lot of activity taking place on theschist crags of the South Branch of Wye Creek–withmulti-pitch rock routes of up to 200 metres being established.The Queenstown Climbing Club is currentlypublishing a high-quality new guidebook to the region,Queenstown Rock, Ice and Mixed, produced by GuillaumeCharton will be available from October via the nzac.WanakaControversy erupted in late summer as word spreadthat Wanaka mountain guide Marty Beare had placedapproximately 20 bolts on the North West Ridge of MtAspiring—a classic, traditional alpine route that was firstclimbed nearly 100 years ago. The bolts were placed tofacilitate commercial guiding on the route.To-date there has been very little in the way of retroboltingof traditional routes in New Zealand and theaction was met with condemnation from most in theclimbing community, although reportedly some novicessaid that they liked the presence of the bolts. It wasTony Burnell climbing at South Wye,Queenstown. Guillaume Charton.19

New Zealand Alpine Club Annual Report 2008not long before the bolts were hammered in (they wereoverdrilled in the first place as attempted removal wasexpected by Beare when he placed them). When interviewedby The Climber magazine, Beare claimed that ‘Inever assumed they would last’. It’s a shame that an otherwiseunaltered and natural climbing resource had to bepermanently scarred for the sake of an experiment wherethe outcome was already anticipated.On the rock, word of a excellent new crag has beenemerging: Al Cap is the name and photos reveal a beautifulwall of black and white streaked schist, developedmostly by Jon Sedon and Scott Standen the crag has abunch of routes from grades 24–30.Barron Saddle – Mt BrewsterIn the five years since the new edition of the BarronSaddle – Mt Brewster guide was published over 70 newalpine climbs have been done in the region. This is a significantnumber, and is indicative of the short history ofmountaineering many of the peaks in this area have.The past year has been a little quieter than others, butthere are a few new routes worthy of mention.In the South Huxley Valley Tony Clarke and HadleySlade-Jones climbed a new route on the south-west face ofPeak 2090m. Mostly rock, the line goes at 16-17 overall.In the west branch of the South Temple Valley PaulHersey and Mat Woods completed the first ascent ofThe Fend (grade 3) on the south face of Peak 2124m. Thisneglected peak had been awaiting an ascent for a longtime. The route follows a narrow snow-filled chute.Three months later Paul was back with Danny Baille tocomplete a route further right on the south face of PakekePeak (2237m), Chess Geeks (grade 3+) is a 400–500m rockroute. The line follows good quality rock for eight pitches(and some simulclimbing) with a rock crux of 14.On the west face of the Dasler Pinnacles AndrewRennie climbed a mixed winter route. It was around wi4at the start, with a really tough last two pitches (grade 5overall).Aoraki Mt Cook and WestlandAs with the trend of the past few years, both the winterand summer seasons at Cook have been quiet comparedwith the activity in the Barron Saddle–Mt BrewsterRegion, The Darrans, or the Westland Névés. Still, thereare three new routes to report from the east side of theMain Divide. A 90 metre waterfall route was climbed inGorilla Stream (Liebig Range) by Graham Zimmermannand Mark Kendrick. They named it the Monk’s Spunk(wi5). The east face of Mt Footstool was climbed byGreg Abrahams, Euan Boyd, Steve Farrand and FlorianL’Hostis. The line, named Requiem for a Dream, climbssnow and ice gullies left of the main couloir.From a camp in the Bonney Glacier Steve Dowall andTom Wilson climbed a new rock route on the west faceof Mt Hamilton (3025m). The climb dog-legs up a face ofmostly good rock with a crux around grade 15.West of the Divide, where there is greater scope foraccessible, technical and shorter routes, more climbingwas taking place. Winter is the season for activity andKester Brown and Jono Clarke kicked the season off witha free ascent of Allan Uren’s mixed test piece The Vision.20

They did, however, tackle the crux via a slight variation.Reports indicate that the climbing was still run-out andtesting at any rate.On a pre-Changabang training trip Craig Jefferies andKester Brown climbed a short route on the south-westside of The Buttress (pt 2776m), on the Abel JanzoonGlacier. The route, Son of a Witch, was about five pitcheslong and graded wi3/4.September saw the strong team of Matt Quirke andMike Madden climb the most notable routes of winterwith two new lines climbed on the south face of ConwayPeak. Visually Impaired climbs a thin ice ribbon immediatelyright of Moonshine Buttress. The crux is a short,narrow chimney followed by a few metres of overhangingice—with sparse protection. A pitch further up had littleto-noprotection also, making the route a bold undertaking.The descent became a serious affair and the pair hadto work hard to find anchors. The route has been gradediv, 5, 7 pitches. The second line Poor Visibility (gradediii, ai3, 6 pitches) featured better protection and featuredan interesting mixed section at half-height. The route wasrapped in good v-threads.In October Mike Peat and Tom Wilson climbedCleavage, near earlier line Mixed Blood, on the south faceof Matenga. The line was 200m long and has crux pitchesof wi3.Central Southern AlpsThe Central Southern Alps (from Mt Cook north toArthur’s Pass) have seen some significant climbs over thepast year and it’s great to see a new generation of climbersreturning to peaks that have been unfashionable inrecent years.Guy McKinnon pulled off the climb of the year withhis first winter ascent (solo) last July of the Ramsay Faceof Mt Whitcombe—a face that could quite fairly beclaimbed as one of the last great problems in Canterburymountaineering. Guy’s was the first winter ascent of thisface, and it is thought to have only been climbed twicebefore (in summer). Guy attempted it twice in 2006, butnever got the right combination of psyche and conditionsuntil winter 2007, when everything fell into place for anGuy McKinnon on the summit ofMt Whitcombe after the first winterascent (solo) of Leviathan on theRamsay Face. Guy McKinnon.21

New Zealand Alpine Club Annual Report 2008Derek Thatcher attempting thesecond ascent of Angel of Pain (32),Castle Hill. Daniel Jenkins.ascent of the 1500 metre route. Guy hasn’t provided anoverall grade for the route, but described cruxes of WI4in the middle of the face, during his six hour ascent. Henamed the route Leviathan.Teaming up with young Christchurch climber JamieVinton-Boot in the summer, Guy climbed a high qualityrock route, Tears of Allah, on the north face of Newton’sWest Peak (Garden of Allah) in April 2008. The face rises400 metres above the Garden of Allah ice field, and comprisesscrambling, and six roped pitches up to grade 21.Also during the 2007 summer, Rob Frost and SimonMills made the first ascent of Mt Isabel’s north-west ridgefrom Harper Rock bivvy. The peak was a significant,remote trans-alpine objective and featured a mix of rockclimbing up to grade 14.CanterburyIssue 62 of The Climber reported some significant newson the rock climbing front, with Derek Thatcher makingthe second ascent of Angel of Pain, sixteen years afterEric Talmadge’s first ascent. The route has repelled allsuitors over the years and for Derek it was a protractedeffort—taking approximately 28 weekends of effort overtwo years. The second significant tick was Derek’s ascentof Kaz’s Project at the The Cave, graded at 33, this wasthe hardest route in the country for a few months, untilDerek sent his Little Babylon project Colossus, which hehas given the same grade.The Castle Hill basin has seen lots of news on the boulderingfront—watch out for the report in this year’s NewZealand Alpine Journal.North IslandA huge amount of enthusiasm has been poured in toa new limestone crag that has been developed near TeKuiti. Mangaokewa has had over 40 routes establishedby a variety of people including Matt Natti, Tom Johns,Ryan von Haeseley and Dan Head. The crag featureslayered limestone in a similar vein to Paynes Ford and abig range of grades. The NZAC contibuted $500 towardsthe cost of bolts for this exciting development in NorthIsland climbing.Mark Watson22

New Zealanders OverseasIt’s been a busy time for New Zealand climbers overseasduring the past year, prompted in part by the on-goingsupport of the nzac Expedition Fund but also by thebi-annual injection of funding from the sparc HillaryExpedition Grants.sparc gave funds to three overseas, mountain orientatedexpeditions in 2007.In September 2007 Brian Alder, Marty Beare, AdamDarragh, Craig Jefferies and Kester Brown made a boldattempt at the West Ridge and north face of Changabangin the Indian Gharwhal. Jefferies and Brown cameclose to completing the North Face before being forceddown by spindrift. The other three made an initialattempt on the West Ridge before retreating in a stormwhich dumped ‘a huge amount of snow,’ burying theirAdvanced Base Camp and forcing Beare and Darraghto survive a night in the open. This was Alder’s secondattempt on Changabang—he also tried the route in 2002.Pat Deavoll and Lydia Bradey were awarded a sparcgrant to make an attempt on Beka Brakkai Chhok, anunclimbed 7000m peak in the Hunza region of NorthernPakistan. Arriving at base camp in June ’07, the pairreached a high point of 6000m before running low onresources and conceding defeat. They went on to makethe first ascent of a smaller peak which they namedWahine (5980m). Deavoll returned to Beka BrakkaiChhok in June 2008 with Brit Malcolm Bass and againfailed after spending 13 days on the mountain, seven ofthem holed up in a storm at 6000m.The third mountain orientated SPARC grant went toSean Waters and Jo Kippax, who battled enormous oddsto make a remote traverse of the Patagonian Ice Plateau.However, there were plenty of other New Zealandersheading abroad to climb without the support of a sparcgrant. Paul and Shelley Hersey, Pat Deavoll and BruceNorman (Scotland) headed for the Gangotri Glacier in theIndian Garwhal in September to attempt the South-Westand East Ridges respectively, of Karchakund. The samestorm that hit the Changabang team thwarted attempts onKarchakund, but Deavoll and Norman went on to makea first ascent of a 6400m mountain in the remote upperreaches of the glacier which they named Miandi Peak.Christchurch climber Penny Goddard made the thirdKiwi female ascent of Everest via the North Ridge inMay 2007, climbing with a team of internationals, threeof them Filipina women making a first ascent for theircountry.Guy McKinnon and Yvonne Cook traversed MtHunter (Alaska) via the Thunder Glacier and the WestRidge in a spell of rare good weather and conditions.Eric Sagers, Russell Millington and the perennialColin Monteath made a month long winter traverse ofthe Chador Canyon and the mountains of Zanksar inNorthern India in temperatures as low as -35C.Equally, if not colder, Graham Charles and MarcusWaters, traversed the Greenland Icecap from east to west23

New Zealand Alpine Club Annual Report 200824Stupa, Hugh Chaffey-Millar. Acceptance, Alpine General. NZAC Photographic Competition 2008.

in September 2007.Two Kiwi parties headed for Antarctica, utilisingAustralian boat, Australis to access the AntacticPeninsula. In February 2007 a large team headed southled by Sandy Sandblom and Darryl Thompson. Over severalweeks the team ticked off a good number of peaks,the only negative being Keith Murray falling in a crevassefrom which he took several hours to extract. The experiencesobered the team somewhat and they ‘adjusted theirthinking on glacier travel.’In February 2008 Chris Byrch and Marc Scaiffe visitedmany of the areas the previous team had covered. Aftera warm summer they found crevasses very open makingfor difficult glacier travel. They also skied on thePatagonian Ice Plateau.Also in Patagonia were Tim Billington and MattFarrell, who made a winter attempt on the Supercanaletaroute on Fitzroy.Kiwis seem to be becoming increasingly aware of othergrants and awards available to make the road easier forexpeditions trying to finance on the New Zealand dollar,such as the Shipton Tilman and Polartec Awards, and theMount Everest Foundation and British MountaineeringCouncil grants.Fortunately sparc are again making the HillaryExpedition grants available for 2009. If New Zealand isever going to close the 20 year gap and produce climberson par with other climbing nations, it’s important theseopportunities are utilised.Pat DeavollCraig Jefferies and Kester Brown on the north face of Changabang. Brian Alder.25

New Zealand Alpine Club Annual Report 2008Treasurer’s ReportA change in balance date from the end of February to30 June has resulted in a 16 month period for the Club’sresults. The decision to change the balance date waslargely determined to better align the Club’s activitieswith the reporting period. It also allows better timing forpreparing information for the annual report and obtainingaudit clearance. This year we have published the 12month period to 29 February 2008 and the 16 monthperiod to 30 June 2008. The February period allows directcomparison with the previous year, while the 16 monthperiod includes income and expenses from activitiesthat have occurred twice in that period e.g. Banff FilmFestival, Hut income and expenses, and five quarterlysparc grants.Another major change from previous reporting periodsis that administration costs have been apportioned acrossthe other cost centres to better reflect the costs involvedin servicing these activities. This was determined by ccm,and as this is the first year recognising the apportionmentit has been calculated as an estimate of administrationcosts, including staff time, spent on these activities. In thecurrent year national office have implemented timesheetsto more accurately determine the staff time allocations.The operating deficit of $80,399 for the 12 months to29 February 2008 was greater than the budgeted loss of$43,000. Reduced income and increased maintenancecosts associated with the Aspiring Huts agreement, lowerpublications sales, a write-down at 29 February of publicationstock on hand to realistic values, and a doublepayment of uiaa subscriptions due to timing issues, haveall contributed to this. On the flip-side, some savingshave been made on postage costs—for the 2008 year allpublications postage has been recognised within publicationsexpenditure. The 16 month deficit of $14,258 is animproved position with gains made over the four monthperiod due to the timing of activities as explained above,and good base lodge income with minimal expense overthe same four months.This summer we completed the re-roofing of the UnwinLodge Warden’s Quarters, and the Main Building commonroom. This has effectively finished stage one of theUnwin redevelopment project which has been fundedfrom Club Hut Reserves set aside for hut maintenanceand improvement. Excess funds from hut accommodationfor the period is added to the Club Hut Reserve whichhas increased over the 16 month period, even after capitalexpenses totalling $71,000 for the Unwin re-roofing havebeen allocated from this reserve. Donations and interestto the Club Hut Fund of $33,600 have been instrumentalin this positive movement. Future development of Unwinwould rely upon funds allocated from this reserve.In summary, while a deficit has been reported, cashflowhas been well managed throughout the year, and theClub remains in a sound position for the current year.Fundraising activities remain crucial for hut redevelopmentprojects.Gillian Crombie26

Statement of Financial PositionAs at 30 June 2008New Zealand Alpine Club IncorporatedStatement of Financial Position as at 30 June 2008Note Jun-08 Feb-08 2006/2007FUNDS AND RESERVESClub Insurance Reserve -Expedition Fund 14017 12716 12,105Unexpended Bequests -Club Hut Fund 131369 157832 103,340Aoraki Mt Cook Hut Fund 966 826 3,996Westland Hut Fund 28820 24909 35,322Aspiring Hut Fund 20094 31528 49,019Home of Mountaineering Fund -Future Club Projects Fund -DOW Hall Publications Fund 5751 5643 5,380Rockclimbing Fund 2657 2780 1,370Total Club Funds 203,674 236,233 210,533Hut Revaluation Reserve 704,000 704,000 704,000Opening Accumulated Funds 420,170 526,270 488,825Fund Movements 32,559 -25,701 74,840Current Year Earnings 66,139 -80,399 (37,396)Closing Accumulated Funds 518,868 420,170 526,270TOTAL FUNDS & RESERVES 1,426,543 1,360,404 1,440,802Represented by:NET ASSETS NoteCurrent AssetsCash at Bank 204606 201233 190,949Investments -Debtors & Accruals 60569 29249 32,643Stock at Cost 85484 87851 100,144350,659 318,333 323,736Less Current LiabilitiesSundry Creditors 28061 11657 11,029GST Payable 3 3968 8802 9,194PAYE Control 4439 3058 2,88836,468 23,517 23,111Net Working Capital 314,191 294,816 300,625Fixed AssetsHuts, Lodges and Buildings 6 1224054 1180175 1,264,525Sundry Assets 6 40803 42960 48,0381,264,857 1,223,135 1,312,563Less Term LiabilitiesHome of Mountaineering Member Loans 23000 23000 23,000Canterbury Community Trust Loan 129504 134547 149,386152,504 157,547 172,386TOTAL NET ASSETS 1,426,543 1,360,404 1,440,80227

New Zealand Alpine Club Annual Report 2008Statement of Financial PerformanceNew Zealand Alpine Club IncorporatedFor Year Ended 30 June 2008Statement of Financial Performance for Year Ended 30 June 2008OPERATING INCOMENote TOTAL 07/08 Jun-08 Feb-08 2006/2007Members IncomeSubscriptions 253,912 63799 190,113 191,487Section Levy 28,480 7474 21,006 21,296282,392 71,273 211,119 212,783PublicationsClimber 109055 36745 72310 80,129Journal 3854 505 3349 3,031Club Publications 89070 21884 67186 68,100General Guidebook Publications 20967 4042 16925 41,724222946 63,176 159,770 192,984AccommodationBase Lodges 140852 45137 95715 88,140Aoraki Mt Cook Alpine Huts 9710 6458 3252 17,049Westland Alpine Huts 28867 6843 22024 20,326Aspiring Alpine Huts 110398 47456 62942 71,466Backcountry Huts 1656 502 1154 939291483 106,396 185,087 197,920Club ActivitiesNational Grants 4 62500 12500 50,000 50,000Travel Insurance 87844 24970 62874 42,656Expedition Fund 8375 3849 4526 5,205Rockclimbing Fund 2190 650 1540 765Annual Climbing Camp 5189 0 5189 1,920Banff Film Festival 38917 20278 18639 23,323National and Section Instruction 178 0 178 3,234Rockclimbing General 7822 4000 3822 423Other National Events 9513 8748 765 515Other Donations, Grants and Bequests 34265 4510 29755 19,194256793 79,505 177,288 147,235AdministrationPublications Postage Recovered 7904 1764 6140 6,550Investment Income 212 0 212 2,673Interest 13058 3872 9186 6,321Sundry 0 0 0 18721174 5,636 15,538 15,731TOTAL OPERATING INCOME 1,074,788 325,986 748,802 766,65328

New Zealand Alpine Club IncorporatedStatement of Financial Performance for Year Ended 30 June 2008OPERATING EXPENDITURENote TOTAL 07/08 Jun-08 Feb-08 2006/2007PublicationsClimber 102,207 35,402 66,805 103,234Journal 26,779 349 26,430 38,883Club Publications 53,200 10,848 42,352 24,072General Guidebook Publications 30,449 4,435 26,014 55,469National Office admin cost 99,372 11,169 88,203 -312,007 62,203 249,804 221,658AccommodationGeneral Costs 15 0 15 -Base Lodges 74,291 7,646 66,645 59,742Aoraki Mt Cook Alpine Huts 13,075 6,458 6,617 16,950Westland Alpine Huts 37,896 3,733 34,163 5,377Aspiring Alpine Huts 135,185 53,755 81,430 67,301Backcountry Huts 2,042 159 1,883 1,381Depreciation Buildings 6 95,276 23,596 71,680 69,451National Office admin cost 40,118 10,162 29,956 -397,898 105,509 292,389 220,202Club ActivitiesSection Levies 22,344 1,865 20,479 21,148Committee Expenses 20,304 3,659 16,645 14,976National Instruction 11,508 0 11,508 3,744Section Instruction 8,561 6,730 1,831 4,940Expedition Fund Grants 7,300 2,800 4,500 8,950Recreation Advocacy 507 168 339 1,340Annual Climbing Camp 4,126 1,973 2,153 2,040Banff Film Festival 23,327 2,425 20,902 25,000Photo Competition 2,983 395 2,588 1,178Travel Insurance 78,894 22,128 56,766 37,789FMC Subscription 16,000 8,000 8,000 8,018UIAA Subscription 9,389 0 9,389 3,778Sport Climbing Federation 0 0 0 4,624Women Climbing Grant 0 0 0 950Rockclimbing 6,618 2,977 3,641 2,412Rockclimbing Fund Grants 996 800 196 567Bouldering Competition 5,087 1,270 3,817 2,418Membership and Promotion 0 0 0 -General National Events 7,968 358 7,610 1,253National Library 2,332 689 1,643 499Home of Mountaineering 1,080 0 1,080 8,365Other Grants and Activities 0 0 -National Office admin cost - Activities 68,564 16,353 52,211 -343,551 83,211 260,340 153,989AdministrationSalaries 199,417 37,642 161,775 104,004Postage 16,492 3,881 12,611 40,366Standing Charges - Rent, Insurance, Power 11,162 941 10,221 6,745Depreciation - Office Equipment 6 9,509 2,157 7,352 8,234Telephone and Tolls 4,966 1,389 3,577 5,937Printing and Stationery 8,310 739 7,571 9,647Audit and Bank Fees 9,981 2,450 7,531 8,662Computer 2,977 1,638 1,339 3,260Mortgage Interest Charges 5,610 1,330 4,280 4,718General 3,995 843 3,152 4,336Home of Mountaineering Depreciation Expense 16,892 4,222 12,670 12,290National Office admin cost - Subscriptions 45,663 10,621 35,042 -less National Office admin costs apportioned -253,717 -48,305 -205,412 -81,257 19,548 61,709 208,199TOTAL OPERATING EXPENDITURE 1,089,050 259,850 829,200 804,048OPERATING RESULT (14,259) 66,139 (80,399) (37,396)29

New Zealand Alpine Club Annual Report 2008Notes to the Annual AccountsAs at 30 June 20081) Constitution and Activities.The New Zealand Alpine Club (Inc) was established in1891 to ‘encourage mountaineering, rock climbing andallied activities in and the enjoyment and conservation ofmountain and rock climbing regions and bring togetherthose interested in mountaineering’.The Club provides services to members as either partof their membership entitlement or on a fee payingbasis. Membership services include the receipt of theNew Zealand Alpine Journal, four copies of The Climber,membership to fmc, reduced rates for guides, club huts& climbing walls, subsidised instruction courses, climbingcamps, various competitions, supports for overseasexpeditions and access to the club library and archives.The club owns and operates 17 mountain huts for itsmembers, and publishes many climbing guides.There have been no changes in the nature of the Club’sactivities for the period ended 30 June 2008.2) Statement of Accounting Policies.General Accounting PoliciesThe following general accounting policies have beenadopted in the preparation of the financial statements.The measurement base is that of historical cost. Relianceis placed on the fact that the Club is a going concern.Accrual accounting is used to match expenses and revenues.Particular Accounting PoliciesThe following is a summary of the significant policiesadopted by the Club in the preparation of the financialstatements.Accounts ReceivableAccounts receivable are stated at their estimated net realisablevalue.Fixed AssetsClub base huts with a government valuation available arerecorded at current valuation. All other fixed assets arerecorded at cost, less accumulated depreciation.DepreciationDepreciation has been charged on a straight line basis atthe following rates.Club Huts 5%Office Equipment 10%Fixtures & Fittings 10%Electrical Items 33%Computer Equipment 40%Library BooksNot DepreciatedInvestmentsInvestments are recorded at cost.Donated Goods & ServicesThe work of the Club is dependent on the substantialvoluntary services of many members. As these servicesare generally not purchased by the Club and because of30

the difficulty of determining their fair value, donatedgoods and services are not recognised.Changes in Accounting PoliciesThere have been no changes to accounting policy thisyear.3) Goods and Services Tax.All figures are exclusive of Goods and Services Tax.4) GrantsThe Club gratefully acknowledges the support of Sportand Recreation New Zealand (sparc). For the currentfinanical year funding of $50,000 was recevied, and thislevel has been confirmed for the 2008/2009 financial year.5) Fixed AssetsTable displayed overleaf.6) Related Party Transactions.There were no material transactions during the yearwith related parties, other than normal employeecompensation.7) Contingent LiabilityThe Club is unaware of any contingent liabilities thatmay have been undertaken in the normal course of itsactivities.8) CommitmentsThe Club has no material commitments as at30 June 2008.It’s Alright in the End, Toby Bucek. Acceptance, Rock Climbing. NZACPhotographic Competition 2008.31

New Zealand Alpine Club Annual Report 20085) Fixed AssetsFixed AssetsOpening Total ValueOriginal Opening CostTotal RevaluationsTotal Opening Depreciation ValueAdditions, Disposals and RevaluationsNew Additions Months DepreciationRateMethodDepreciationTotal MovementClosing Total ValueName$ $ $ $ $ $ $Land and CommericalArthur's Pass Lodge Land 24,000 11,000 13,000 24,000 0% 0 0 24,000Home of Mountaineering - Land 51,786 51,786 51,786 0% 0 0 51,786Home of Mountaineering - Building 241,089 253,379 253,379 5% (16,892) (16,892) 224,197Base Buildings, Lodges, and HutsAspiring Hut 29,500 70,000 50,000 120,000 5% S/L (8,000) (8,000) 21,500Arthur's Pass Lodge 50,124 17,003 46,000 63,003 5% S/L (4,200) (4,200) 45,924Porter Lodge 44,832 75,835 75,000 150,835 5% S/L (10,056) (10,056) 34,776Homer Hut 136,874 108,803 45,000 153,803 5% S/L (10,254) (10,254) 126,620Ruapehu Hut 37,740 28,707 34,500 63,207 5% S/L (4,214) (4,214) 33,526Unwin Lodge 328,024 65,848 344,000 409,848 71,695 1 5% S/L (27,024) 44,671 372,695Unwin Wardens Quarters 126,033 60,034 85,000 145,034 5% S/L (9,669) (9,669) 116,364Unwin Bunkrooms 7,200 9,000 9,000 5% S/L (600) (600) 6,600Unwin Other Buildings 2,000 2,500 2,500 5% S/L (167) (167) 1,833Unwin Furniture & Fittings 1,722 2,426 2,426 10% S/L (323) (323) 1,399Alpine HutsCentennial Hut 35,514 94,347 94,347 5% S/L (6,290) (6,290) 29,224Pioneer Hut 44,603 61,598 61,598 5% S/L (4,107) (4,107) 40,496Colin Todd Hut 0 0 5% S/L 0 0 0French Ridge Hut 89,944 122,709 122,709 5% S/L (8,181) (8,181) 81,763De La Beche Hut 0 14,368 14,368 5% S/L 0 0 0Murchison Hut 4,903 21,820 21,820 5% S/L (1,455) (1,455) 3,448Backcountry HutsEsquilant Biv 6,742 8,972 8,972 5% S/L (598) (598) 6,144Whangaehu Hut 1,897 2,081 2,081 5% S/L (139) (139) 1,758Godley Hut 0 5% S/L 0 0 0Cascade Hut 0 5% S/L 0 0 0Elcho Hut 0 5% S/L 0 0 0TOTAL LAND & BUILDINGS 1,264,527 1,070,716 704,000 1,774,716 71,695 (112,167) (40,472) 1,224,055Sundry AssetsLibrary Books 30,000 30,000 30,000 0% S/L 0 0 30,000Library Shelving 6,766 7,382 7,382 10% S/L (984) (984) 5,782Library Security Doors 0 1,050 12 10% S/L (105) 945 945Shelving and Desks 1,939 1,140 1,140 10% S/L (152) (152) 1,787HOM Table & Chairs 855 924 924 10% S/L (123) (123) 732HP Laptop 2,188 3,647 3,647 40% S/L (1,945) (1,945) 243Computer Mac (G5) 1,079 5,401 5,401 40% S/L (1,079) (1,079) 0Data Projector 1,890 3,150 3,150 40% S/L (1,680) (1,680) 210Polycom Soundstation 936 1,560 1,560 40% S/L (832) (832) 104Sonic Firewall and Hub 516 860 860 40% S/L (459) (459) 57Computer Monitor 21" 0 2,080 2,080 40% S/L 0 0 0Telephone PABX 1,868 3,113 3,113 40% S/L (1,660) (1,660) 208Photocopier 0 2,500 2,500 33% S/L 0 0 0Computer Software 0 2,000 2,000 40% S/L 0 0 0Computer Mac (G4) 0 4,535 4,535 40% S/L 0 0 0Computer PC (Admin Asst) 0 2,363 2,363 40% S/L 0 0 0Computer PC (Brio 410) 0 2,895 2,895 40% S/L 0 0 0Windows Server 0 1,481 1,481 40% S/L 0 0 0HP LaserJet 4000 Printer 0 3,339 3,339 40% S/L 0 0 0Scanner 0 2,404 2,404 40% S/L 0 0 0Monitor (Publications) 444 12 40% S/L (178) 266 266Scanner (Publications) 781 12 40% S/L (312) 469 469Backup System 0 2,407 2,407 40% S/L 0 0 0TOTAL SUNDRY ASSETS 48,037 83,181 0 83,181 2,275 (9,509) (7,234) 40,8031,312,564 1,153,897 704,000 1,857,897 73,970 (121,677) (47,707) 1,264,85732

Financial GraphsWhere Does the Money Come From?Where does the money come from?Travel Insurance8%Other8%Donations & Grants4%Subscriptions26%SPARC Grant6%Alpine Huts14%Climber & Journal11%Base & Backcountry HutsGeneral Publications13%Where Does the Money Go? 10%Where does the money go?Subscriptions Admin4%Activities Admin6%National OfficeAdministration1%Depreciation11%Section Levies2%Climber & Journal12%General Publications8%Activities12%Publications Admin9%Travel Insurance7%AccommodationAdmin4%Alpine Huts17%Base &Backcountry Huts7%33

New Zealand Alpine Club Annual Report 2008Club financial income trendsClub Finanical Income TrendsClub financial expenditure trendsClub Finanical Expenditure Trends250,000300,000200,000250,000150,000100,00020042005200620072008200,000150,000100,0002004200520062007200850,00050,00000Members IncomePublicationsAccommodationClub ActivitiesAdministrationPublicationsAccommodationClub ActivitiesAdministration34

Auditor’s ReportTo the members of New Zealand Alpine Club IncorporatedI have audited the financial statements for the 16 months ended 30June 2008. The financial statements provide information about the pastfinancial performance and position of the New Zealand Alpine ClubIncorporated for the 16 months ended 30 June 2008. This information isstated in accordance with the accounting policies set out hereto.Committee’s responsibilitiesThe Committee is responsible for the preparation of financial statementin accordance with Generally Accepted Accounting Practice, whichfairly reflects the results of operations and the financial position of theNew Zealand Alpine Club Incorporated as at 30 June 2008.Auditor’s ResponsibilitiesIt is my responsibility to express an independent opinion on the financialstatements presented and report my opinion to you;Basis of OpinionAn audit includes examining, on a test basis, evidence relevant to theamounts and disclosures in the financial statements.It also included assessing:- the significant estimates and judgements made by the group in thepreparation of the financial statements, and- whether the accounting policies are appropriate to the group’s circumstances,consistently applied and adequately disclosed.I have conducted my audit in accordance with Generally AcceptedAuditing Standards in New Zealand except that my work was limited asexplained below. I planned and performed my audit so as to obtain allthe information and explanations, which I considered necessary.I obtained sufficient evidence to give reasonable assurance that thefinancial report is free from material misstatements, whether causedby fraud or error. In forming my opinion, I also evaluated the overalladequacy of the presentation of information in the financial statements.Other than in my capacity as auditor, I have no relationship with orfinancial interest in the New Zealand Alpine Club Incorporated.Qualified OpinionIn common with other organisations of a similar nature, control overincome, excluding grants, prior to being recorded, is limited and thereare no practical audit procedures to determine the effect of this limitedcontrol. In this respect alone, I have not obtained all the informationand explanations that I have required.In my opinion, except for adjustments that might have been foundto be necessary had I been able to obtain sufficient evidence concerningincome, excluding grants, the Statement of Financial Performance fairlyreflects the results of activities for the 16 months ended 30 June 2008.In my opinion, the Statement of Financial Position fairly reflects thefinancial position of the New Zealand Alpine Club Incorporated as at 30June 2008.My audit report was completed on 16 September 2008, and my qualifiedopinion is expressed as at that date.Pauline Noonan, Bachelor of Commerce and Management35

New Zealand Alpine Club Annual Report 2008Annual General Meeting2008Saturday 18 October, 3pm at the YMCAConference room, Hereford Street,Christchurch.Agenda:1. Apologies2. Proxies3. Confirmation of the minutes of the 2007 agm4. Obituaries5. Presentation of the President’s Report6. Summary and Questions from other items in theAnnual Report7. Presentation of the Financial Report8. Election of Club Officers:• Honorary Secretary• Honorary Treasurer• Publications Subcommittee Convener• Accommodation Subcommittee Convener• Executive Subcommittee Convener (if required)9. Appointment of Auditor10. NZAC Volunteer of the Year Award11. Unwin Project Presentation11. General BusinessMt Cook Alpine Lilies, Mary Hobbs. Alpine Nature, Acceptance,NZAC Photographic Competition 2008.36

Minutes of the 2007 Annual General MeetingMinutes of the 2007 Annual General Meeting ofthe New Zealand Alpine Club held on Saturday 26May at 3 p.m. in the William Sutton Room, ArtsCentre, Christchurch.AttendanceThe President, Judy Reid, presided over a meetingof 32 members from throughout New Zealand.ApologiesApologies were received from Hilary and GordonHasell, James Broadbent, Dave Bamford, RobBrown, Jay Piggott, Geoff Spearpoint, John Cocks,Richard Pearson, Gillian Crombie.It was moved: ‘That the apologies be receivedand accepted.’ Vonnie Crawford/ Grant Piper.CarriedIntroductionOllie Clifton introduced himself to those presentand gave a brief run down of his time with theClub. He is impressed by the amount of volunteerinput, passion and skill that goes into running theClub, and also by the professionalism of his fellowstaff. He acknowledged his predecessor, RichardWesley, for his ongoing assistance in handing overthe reins of Executive Officer.Judy Reid acknowledged the work of RossCullen, who is standing down as convenorof Publications, for the professional and personaltouch he brought to the position. She alsoacknowledged Richard Knott for his recent work atRuapehu Hut, Ron McLeod for his work at HomerHut, Lindsay Smith for his work at Cascade Hutand Nick Shearer for his work at Elcho Hut.ProxiesTwenty nine proxies were received from SouthCanterbury and allocated to Ian Rogers. Eightproxies were received from Wellington and allocatedto Garth London. Three proxies were allocatedto Judy Reid, two to Philip Tree and one toPhil Doole.Confirmation of MinutesIt was moved: ‘That the minutes of the 2006 AGMof the Club be adopted as a true and accuraterecord.’ Geoff Gabites /Richard Knott. CarriedThere were no matters arising from the minutes.President’s ReportJudy Reid commented briefly on her report, especiallynoting that:i. More information is now available on thefinances associated with Club huts and this shouldenable us to be more aware of the state of thefinances in future.ii. A lot of time has been spent on RulesRevision during the year.iii. Volunteers keep the Club afloat and specialthanks are due to all those people, especially thosewithin the Sections.iv. Climbing goes on regardless.It was moved: ‘That the President’s Report beaccepted.’ JamesWright/Lindsay Smith. CarriedObituariesA minutes silence was held for the following membersand past members who had died during theyear: M Sullivan, M Inoue, N Creedman, R Priorand Noel Elvines.Convenor Reports8.1 Accommodation ReportGarth London made a special presentation on theClub huts and in particular noted the following.i. A lot of work has been done in improvingthe quality of the financial information relating tohuts.ii. An overview of the income and expenditurefor all categories of huts showed that Unwin isour biggest earner, that the small expenditure onWestland huts is the result of deferred maintenance,that there is a capacity issue in the Westlandhuts, and that there is a huge compliance issuewith fee payment for the back country huts.iii. Over the next five years there is an expectedapproximate $40 000 deficit in the huts budget,excluding Ollie’s time.Garth London identified the main issues asbeing:i. Excess of expenditure over income.ii. Deferred maintenance amounting to about$500 000.iii. Compliance issues, although he notedthat it is good under the Aspiring, Mt Cook andWestland agreements.iv. That management systems for huts needto be of a professional standard and aligned toDepartment of Conservation (doc) standards.v. Costs are high and are increasing.37

New Zealand Alpine Club Annual Report 2008Options to address the financial situationinclude:i. Decrease the operating expenditure.ii. Continue to defer maintenance.iii. Sell huts or investigate options with doc Butit was noted that the huts are not really a saleableitem and also that this is not really an option asone of the main reasons people join the Club is forthe huts.iv. Increase hut fees.v. Partially subsidise huts with subscriptions.vi. Increase compliance.vii. Increase occupancy.viii. Increase volunteer contribution.ix. Seek donations and community grants.x. Investigate increasing the alpine hut fees withdoc.xi. Fund from events such as Banff.xii. Use accumulated funds from sections.In conclusion, Garth London considered thatincreasing the base hut fees was the simplest option.He suggested that if members paid $15, incomewould increase by $15 000. If all non-members,including guests of members, paid $25 and groupspaid $20, income would increase by about $11 000.In comparison an increase in subscriptions by $5would increase income by about $15 000 p.a. andBanff could contribute about $15 000.Bill Beaven expressed concern that the Homeof Mountaineering and Arthurs Pass hut werethe only places where the Club owned land. Hewas also concerned that not sufficient marketingwas being done, especially for the quieter monthsat Unwin Lodge. Garth London replied thatproblems with backpackers at Unwin arose whenUnwin was advertised as often there were no bedsleft for members. He also noted that the Club doesnot have a concession to provide the public withaccommodation at Mt Cook and therefore stoodon the toes of other accommodation providers.He also advised the meeting that the Club has aleasehold at Porter Lodge and is working towards aformal concession at Unwin.James Wright suggested that (an) annual passfor non-members be considered. He also notedthat because we do not own land at Unwin, theClub is probably not eligible for a mortgage.It was agreed that more investigation on nonmemberrates and school group rates is needed,but keeping in mind that the differential betweenmembers and non-members’ rates must be kept tomaintain an advantage for members.8.2 Other ReportsJudy Reid asked those present for commentsabout other NZAC activities.In response to a question asking why we arespending more money on the Journal when weare not getting more income from it, Ross Cullenadvised that the Journal is to be smaller this year,but that the issue of colour vs black and whiteneeds to be discussed with members.Another member advised that he joined theClub for the huts not the Journal so suggested thatnot all members may want to receive the Journal.However Ross Cullen pointed out that if we reducethe number of Journals produced we do not get aproportionate decrease in costs.Nancy Cawley noted that veterans get free subscriptionsbut suggested some of them may still bewilling to pay. Ollie Clifton advised that the Clubdoes send out a membership renewal form to allveteran members, which gives them a reminderabout donations.Judy Reid thanked all the convenors, especiallyRoss Cullen who is the outgoing Publicationsconvenor.Financial Reporti. Ollie Clifton explained the financial statementsand noted in particular the following:• Income from subscriptions has increased significantly.• There is a large apparent increase in the‘Climber’ expenditure because this year’s figuresinclude all costs whereas last year’s figures did not.• Income from guidebooks includes incomefrom Club publications as well as from non-Clubpublications.• There was a marked decrease in income fromgeneral national events because a national speakertour was not held.• Staff expenditure has increased because of salaryincreases.• While the Aspiring hut fund is shown in thestatement of financial position, it should be notedthat while they are our funds, they are held by doc.• NZAC gave $50 000 towards Plateau Hut inreturn for substantial member benefits. This is notrecorded in finances.• An effort will be made to reduce stock levels ofguidebooks.ii. Phil Doole expressed concern that the waythe accounts were presented made it difficult38

to track capital expenditure. Judy Reid agreedwith this and advised that she would make surethe issue was addressed at the ccm. While it wasagreed that all the necessary information is in theaccounts, there needs to be much more explanation.iii. It was moved: ‘ That the financial statementsbe received.’ Alan McLauchlin/Garth London.CarriedRules RevisionThe proposed rule changes were put to the 2007AGM.It was moved:‘That the Rules in the form of the final draft setout in the Appendix to the Annual Report (excludingthe italicised comments and references toprevious Rules) be adopted in place of the existingRules of the Club.’ Lindsay Smith/Nick ShearerThis motion was then put aside until after thefollowing amendment.It was moved:‘That the text of the Rules referred to in theabove resolution be amended in the followingrespects:Rule 11.f Substitute ‘in addition to’ for ‘otherthan.’Rule 11f will now read‘The Club Committee may specify tasks orresponsibilities for the standing committees inaddition to those specified in these Rules.’Rule 15: Substitute paragraph (d) with the followingand add a new paragraph (e) as follows:(d) ‘Section representatives shall ascertaintheir sections’ views on significant matters to bediscussed at the Club Committee meeting andconvey those views to the meeting, and report onthe meeting to their sections; and shall at all othertimes act as a liaison between their sections andNational Office’.(e) Section representatives, as members of theClub Committee, shall act in a manner which theybelieve is in the best interests of the Club.’Rule 23: Substitute with the following;‘The Club’s financial year shall, subject toobtaining any approval required, run from the firstday of July to the last day of the following June,commencing on the first day of July 2008 or thenext practicable year after that. Until that commencementdate the Club’s financial year shallcontinue to run from the first day of March tothe last day of the following February, adjusted asnecessary to enable the transition to the changedfinancial year. ‘Rule 29a to be replaced with:a ‘The Financial Subcommittee may, subject toany directives, policies, strategies, plans and budgetsadopted by the Club Committee, invest any ofthe Club’s funds for such term as it may think fitand, in doing so, it shall act prudently to:….’ Therest of 29a,b,c and d to remain the same.Rule 31 Insert ‘or rock climbing’ after ‘mountaineering’.Rule 31 will now read ‘The ClubCommittee in its discretion and upon such termsas it sees fit, shall have the power to provide assistanceto members in distress or otherwise requiringassistance, in connection with mountaineeringor rock climbing activities in New Zealand oroverseas, provided that no part of the income andother funds of the Club is used or is available tobe used for the private pecuniary profit of anymember.’Rule 32 should now read:32. Execution of Contractsa. Contracts and other enforceable obligationsin writing shall be executed by the Club:i. by affixing the common seal of the Clubto the document pursuant to a resolution ofthe Club Committee in the presence of theHonorary Secretary and two members of the ClubCommittee, all of whom shall sign the documentto which the seal is affixed; orii. where the document is not required to beexecuted under common seal, by the ExecutiveOfficer signing on behalf of the Club pursuant toauthorisations and delegations approved by theClub Committee.b. The common seal of the Club shall be heldin the National Office.Rule 36 should now read:36. Liquidationa. Provided all its liabilities have been discharged,the Club may be put into liquidation ifthe Club, at a general meeting of members, passesa resolution appointing a liquidator, and the resolutionis confirmed at a subsequent general meetingcalled for that purpose and held not earlierthan 30 days after the date on which the resolutionto be confirmed was passed and the provisions ofthe Incorporated Societies Act 1908 shall apply tosuch resolutions and the liquidation of the Club.b After being put into liquidation, the funds andproperty of the Club shall be paid or transferred39

New Zealand Alpine Club Annual Report 2008to an incorporated society or societies which haveobjects similar to those of the Club, as set out inthe resolution referred to in Rule 36a.c No resolution to put the Club into liquidationshall be valid unless it determines to which incorporatedsocieties the Club’s funds and property areto be paid or transferred.’John Nankervis/Lindsay Smith. CarriedThe original resolution of Lindsay Smith andNick Shearer was then put and carried.Geoff Gabites suggested that all of the informationin the Annual Report could be sent out viaemail instead of as a paper copy. Judy Reid felt thiswould need consultation with the membership butGeoff said it could be chosen by indicating on theapplication form. Phil Doole considered that Rules19 and 25 allow for email. Nancy Cawley suggestedthe Annual Report could be a cheaper and simplerpublication. More consideration is to be given tothis matter.Election of OfficersIt was noted that under the new Rules, theExecutive subcommittee convenor is the personwho ensures the paid staff do what the executivewant them to do. The Executive convenor iselected at the AGM.The following nominations for office bearerswere received:Honorary Secretary - Jocelyn Douglas (JudyReid/Nancy Cawley)Honorary Treasurer - Gillian Crombie (JudyReid/Ross Cullen)Publications Convenor - Rob Brown (RossCullen/Geoff Gabites)Accommodation Convenor - Garth London(Judy Reid/Allan McLauchlin)Executive Subcommittee Convenor - GeoffGabites (Jocelyn Douglas/Ian Rogers)It was moved: ‘That the nominations as listedabove be accepted.’ CarriedIt was moved that: ‘Pauline Noonan be auditorof the Club.’ Judy Reid/Ross Cullen. CarriedJudy Reid noted that the President is notelected at the AGM but is elected by the CCM.The President is elected for two years and has theultimate monitoring role over the CCM. Judy Reidthen introduced Phil Doole as the new President.General Businessi. Alan MacLauchlan passed a vote of thanks forJudy Reid’s work during her two years as Presidentof the Club. Phil Doole elaborated on this. In particularhe said she is an avid rock climber, has beenon two overseas trips, and has had roles on severalsubcommittees. He noted that her corporate governanceexperience has been invaluable.ii. Judy Reid thanked NZAC for giving her agreat few years of active life.iii. James Wright asked what Phil Doole’s aspirationsfor the Club were. Phil replied he will belistening to the membership and his mission willbe for NZAC to be the premier climbing club inNew Zealand and also to be proactive in gettingmore people involved.The meeting closed at 5.10 p.m.40

Proxy FormIf you are a member of the Club and are unable to attend the Annual GeneralMeeting you are still able to have your vote heard by giving another member theability to use your vote. This is called a Proxy Vote and simply requires you nominatesomebody else that is at the meeting to have your vote as well. This is often thechairperson of the meeting.Club Rules Concerning Proxy VotesRule 21b: Any member unable to attend a general meeting may vote by proxy,written notice of which must be received by the national office by the day before themeeting.Rule 21c: A proxy vote must nominate another club member attending the meetingto act on the person’s behalf.proxy vote formFull Name . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Membership Number ..............................................Section...........................................................Name of Appointed Proxy ..........................................This information needs to be posted, faxed or emailed to the national office by theday before the meeting.41

New Zealand Alpine Club Annual Report 2008Appendix: New Zealand Alpine Club Incorporated RulesName1. The name of the Club shall be the NewZealand Alpine Club (Incorporated).Objects2. a. The objects of the Club are to encouragemountaineering, rock climbing and allied activitiesand the enjoyment and conservation of mountainand rock climbing regions; and to bring togetherthose interested in climbing.b. The Club aims to provide services for climbers,protect the interests and safety of climbers, andpromote climbing activities.MEMBERSHIP3. Classes and Entitlementa. The Club shall consist of life, honorary andsubscribing Members, all of whom are entitled toattend and vote at general meetings and take partin all Club activities.b. Subscribing Members shall be issued witha current Club membership card on payment oftheir annual Club subscription.4. Applications for Membershipa. The Club shall have a standard form to becompleted for membership application.b. The completed form and the accompanyingpayment for the annual subscription shall beforwarded to the National Office for processingat which point the applicant shall be deemed aMember of the Club.5. Life and Honorary Membersa. Upon the recommendation of a committeeof the President and not less than three pastPresidents convened by the President, the ClubCommittee may elect to life membership anymember who has made an outstanding contributionto mountaineering or rock climbing or to theClub; and to honorary membership any persondistinguished in mountaineering or rock climbingor related activities.b. Life and honorary members shall be exemptfrom the payment of subscriptions but shall beissued with current Club membership cards andshall enjoy all rights of membership.6. ResignationsAny Member may resign from the Club by givingthe National Office written or email notice.7. ExpulsionAfter first giving the person an opportunity ofbeing heard, the Club Committee may reprimand,suspend for any period, or expel from the Club,any Member who in the Club Committee’s judgmenthas wilfully infringed these Rules or anyRegulation made thereunder or is guilty of conductrendering that person unfit to be in the Club.SECTIONS8. Formation of sectionsa. Geographically based Sections may be set upby the Club Committee, which shall have powerto approve additional Sections or alter or disbandexisting Sections.b. A Member who does not reside in NewZealand or Australia shall be deemed to be anoverseas Member unless electing in writing toremain a Member of a section.c. Each Section shall be managed by a SectionCommittee consisting of a Chairperson, ViceChairperson, Honorary Secretary and/or HonoraryTreasurer and a Committee of not less than three,elected at the Annual General Meeting of theSection.9. Section Rules and Votinga. Sections shall hold Annual General Meetingsat least one calendar month before the Club’sAnnual General Meeting, for the purpose of electingsection officers. Annual reports and financialstatements shall also be presented at sectionAnnual General Meetings, and sent to NationalOffice as soon as possible thereafter.b. Sections may make their own rules, whichshall not be inconsistent with these Rules.c. Members shall have the right to vote at meetingsof the Section to which they belong.d. Section officers and committee membersmust be section Members.MANAGEMENT10. Club Committeea. The power of overall management, directionand policy making for the Club shall be vested inthe Club Committee.b. The Club Committee shall comprise thePresident, Immediate Past President (for the yearimmediately following his/her last year of officeas President), President Elect (once appointed),Honorary Secretary, Honorary Treasurer, convenersof standing subcommittees and section42

epresentatives. Club Committee meetings shallbe chaired by the President, or in his/her absenceby the President-Elect, or the Immediate PastPresident, or such other person as the meetingdecides. The Chairperson shall have an original aswell as a casting vote.c. The Club Committee shall meet face to faceat least twice a year, and may also meet as requiredby means of telephone or video conferencing.e. Twelve members of the Club Committee shallform a quorum.f. The agenda and papers for Club Committeemeetings shall be sent to section representatives atleast one calendar month before the meeting date.11. Subcommittees and Convenersa. There shall be four standing subcommitteesof the Club Committee: Finance, Executive,Accommodation and Publications. The Convenerof the Finance Subcommittee shall be theHonorary Treasurer. The Conveners of the otherthree standing subcommittees shall be electedofficers of the Club, and ex officio members of theClub Committee.b. The Finance Subcommittee shall oversee theClub’s investments and financial position; ensurethat Club Committee members receive timely,comprehensive and clear financial statements andprojections at least on a quarterly basis; ensure theClub’s compliance with all taxation requirementsand any other legislation relating to financial matters;and advise the other subcommittees and theExecutive Officer. The Finance Subcommitteeshall, in addition to the Convener, be the Presidentand three other Club Members appointed by theClub Committee on the recommendation of theHonorary Treasurer.c. The Executive Subcommittee shall overseethe work of Club’s Executive Officer; ensure thatthe National Office as a whole acts within theserules and the directives, policies, strategies, plansand budgets adopted by the Club Committee,and ensure the Club’s compliance with all legalrequirements relating to employment and workplacesafety. The Executive Subcommittee shall,in addition to the Convener, be the President, theImmediate Past President or the President-Elect,the Honorary Treasurer, the Honorary Secretaryand two other Club Members appointed by theClub Committee on the recommendation of theExecutive Subcommittee Convener.d. The Accommodation Subcommittee shalloversee the management of the Club’s capitalassets, and ensure that their integrity and valueto the Club are enhanced by adequate short andlong term plans for maintenance and repair;and plan for the construction of new buildings.With the Finance Subcommittee, theAccommodation Subcommittee shall develop longterm financial strategies as part of these plans. TheAccommodation Subcommittee shall, in additionto the Convener, be representatives of any sectionswhich have buildings undergoing major worksin their areas, and other Club Members (up to atotal of seven) appointed by the Club Committeeon the recommendation of the AccommodationSubcommittee Convener.e. The Publications Subcommittee shalloversee the Club’s publications, and ensure thetimely production of quality books, guidebooks,magazines and journals relating to climbing. ThePublications Subcommittee shall, in addition tothe Convener, be four Club Members appointedby the Club Committee on the recommendation ofthe Publications Subcommittee Convener.f. The Club Committee may specify tasks orresponsibilities for the standing subcommittees inaddition to those specified in these rules.g. The Club Committee may set up other subcommitteesfor specified purposes, and appointconveners and members for them. These convenersshall as far as possible be section representatives,and shall not otherwise be ex officio membersof the Club Committee.h. Conveners may co-opt other members totheir subcommittees as required.i. Subcommittees may advise and make recommendationsto the Club Committee within theirareas of responsibility, and shall also advise theExecutive Officer as required, but cannot makedecisions which bind the Club outside of thedirectives, policies, strategies, plans and budgetsadopted by the Club Committee.j. Conveners of standing and other subcommitteesmay meet together as convened by thePresident to discuss and formulate recommendationsto the Club Committee about the overallactivities of the Club and the priority to be givento these activities, and the short and longer termfinancial implications of their recommendations.OFFICERS12. Presidenta. The Club shall have a President who shallserve for a two year term commencing immediatelyafter the Annual General Meeting and endingat the close of the Annual General Meeting two43

New Zealand Alpine Club Annual Report 2008years later.b. Should the office of President fall vacant theClub Committee shall appoint the President ElectPresident for a term expiring at the close of thethird Annual General Meeting after the appointment.If there is no President Elect the ClubCommittee shall appoint as President one of theVice Presidents for a term expiring at the close ofthe third Annual General Meeting, or such shorterterm as it may determine.c. The President shall be a member ex officio ofall Section Committees of the Club.d. The President shall ensure that the Clubfulfils the Objects in Rule 2 and acts within theseRules and the directives, policies, strategies, plansand budgets adopted by the Club Committee.13. President Elect and Immediate Past Presidenta. For the year prior to the termination of aPresident’s term of office, the Club shall have aPresident-Elect, who shall become the Presidentat the end of that year. For the year following thetermination of a President’s term of office, he/shewill be Immediate Past President.b. The President-Elect and the ImmediatePast President shall ex officio be members of theCommittee of the Section to which they belong.14. Vice PresidentsThe Club shall have two Vice-Presidents, onefor the North Island and one for the South Island,with special responsibilities for assisting and actingon behalf of the President as requested, maintainingcontact and cooperation between sections intheir areas, and supporting sections in need ofassistance.15. Section Representativesa. Each section shall have one representative onthe Club Committee.b. Section representatives must belong to thesection they represent, and shall ex officio bemembers of their section committees.c. Section representatives shall have one or morevotes, in accordance with the following formula:Up to 200 section members1 vote200 and up to 400 section members 2 votes400 or more members 3 votesd. Section representatives shall ascertain theirsections’ views on significant matters to be discussedat the Club Committee Meeting and conveythose views to the Meeting, and report on themeeting to their sections; and shall, at all othertimes, act as liaison between their sections and theNational Office.e. Section representatives as members of theClub Committee shall act in a manner which theybelieve is in the best interests of the Club.16. Election and Appointment of Officersa. The President-Elect shall be elected at theClub Committee meeting held in conjunction withthe Annual General Meeting one year prior to endof the President’s term of office.b. The Honorary Secretary, the HonoraryTreasurer and the Executive, Accommodation andPublications Conveners shall be elected for theensuing year at the Annual General Meeting, andmay be re-elected annually, for a maximum periodof five years.c. Any Member may nominate a candidate forthe positions in 16.b by sending, with the candidate’sprior consent, a nomination to the NationalOffice at least one calendar month prior to theMeeting at which the election is to take place, butno Member may be nominated for or elected tomore than one of these positions.d. The Club Committee may fill until the nextAnnual General Meeting a vacancy occurring forany of the positions in 16.b.e. Section representatives shall be elected bytheir sections, at the section Annual GeneralMeeting. The Section Committee may fill until thenext section Annual General Meeting a vacancyoccurring in this position. Section representativesshall hold office for a minimum of two and amaximum of five years.f. Vice-presidents shall be appointed by theClub Committee on the recommendation of thePresident, and must be section representatives atthe time of their appointmentg. Conveners of subcommittees that are notstanding subcommittees shall be appointed by theClub Committee, and shall as far as possible besection representatives at the time of their appointment,but will not otherwise be members of theClub Committee.h. All officers under this Rule must be ClubMembers when nominated and while holdingoffice.17. The Executive Officer and National Officea. The Executive Subcommittee may, afterconsultation with the Club Committee, appointan Executive Officer to be responsible, under theExecutive Subcommittee’s supervision, for the dayto day operation of the Club within these rules andthe directives, policies, strategies, plans and budgetsadopted by the Club Committee.44

. The Executive Subcommittee shall, subject toconsultation with the Club Committee, developand maintain a schedule of duties, delegations andperformance criteria for the Executive Officer.c. The Executive Subcommittee shall reviewthe performance of the Executive Officer at leastannually, and shall, subject to consultation withthe Club Committee, make any salary adjustmentor take any other action (including disciplinaryaction) that may be necessary arising from thisreview, or any other performance-related matter orwork misconduct.d. The Executive Officer shall review the performanceof National Office staff at least annually andshall ,subject to consultation with the ExecutiveSubcommittee, have the authority to make anysalary adjustment within the year’s budget, or takeany other action (including disciplinary action)which may be necessary arising from these reviews,or any other performance-related matter or workmisconduct.18. General meetingsa. The Club shall hold an Annual GeneralMeeting as soon as possible after the end of itsfinancial year for the election of officers for theensuing year, the presentation of the annual reportand financial statements and other business.b. The Club Committee may at any time call aGeneral Meeting of the Club.c. A General Meeting shall be called upon arequisition to the National Office signed by 25Members specifying the resolutions to be movedat the meeting requisitioned. Notices of the meetingshall be posted within 21 days of the NationalOffice receiving the requisition. The GeneralMeeting shall be held within 60 days of the receiptof the requisition.19. General Meeting Notice and Quoruma. At least one calendar month’s notice of aGeneral Meeting (including an Annual GeneralMeeting) shall be sent by mail, fax or email toevery Member stating the time and place, and thebusiness to be transacted at, the meeting.b. Three Members present at a General Meetingmay elect a Chairperson and adjourn the meetingbut no business shall be transacted unless 25Members are present.20. General Meeting Chairpersona. At all General Meetings of the Club thechair shall be taken by the President or, in thePresident’s absence by the President-Elect or byone of the Vice Presidents. If within 15 minutes ofthe time the meeting was notified to begin neitherthe President, the President-Elect, nor any of theVice Presidents are present, the meeting shall electa chairperson from Members present.b. The Chairperson shall have an original as wellas a casting vote.21. Voting and Proxiesa. Voting at a general meeting shall be by ashow of hands or, if either the Chairperson thinksit necessary or it is requested from the floor, by asecret ballot.b. Any Member unable to attend a general meetingmay vote by proxy, written notice of whichmust be received in the National Office by post orfax by the day before the meeting.c. A proxy vote must nominate another ClubMember attending the meeting to act on that person’sbehalf.22. Postal Votinga. On receiving a written requisition for a postalballot signed by 25 Members and identifyingthe issue to be voted on at least 21 days before aGeneral Meeting, National Office shall immediatelysend out ballot papers to all Members.b. Ballot papers sent to Members shall clearlyindicate the question to be voted on, the mannerof voting and the date by which votes must bereceived by the National Office. Votes may be sentby post or fax.c. The Club Committee shall appoint 3Members to be scrutineers, and at the votingdeadline the National Office shall hand the ballotpapers to the scrutineers.d. The validity of any vote shall be in the absolutediscretion of the scrutineers and they shallcount the votes and report the result to the ClubCommittee in time for the general meeting.FINANCIAL23. Financial YearThe Club’s financial year shall, subject toobtaining any approval required, run from the firstday of July to the last day of the following June,commencing on the first day of July 2008 or thenext practicable year after that. Until that commencementdate the Club’s financial year shallcontinue to run from the first day of March tothe last day of the following February, adjusted asnecessary to enable the transition to the changedfinancial year.24. AuditorThe Club’s annual financial statements shall besubject to audit by a member of the New ZealandInstitute of Chartered Accountants elected at the45

New Zealand Alpine Club Annual Report 2008Annual General meeting whose report shall beincluded in the annual report.25. Financial Statementsa. Copies of the Club’s annual financial statementsshall be included with the annual reportsent to Members with the notice of the AnnualGeneral Meeting. If the statements are unauditedwhen sent the auditor’s report shall be presented atthe Annual General Meeting.b. Accounts shall be prepared in accordancewith New Zealand Institute of CharteredAccountants standards from time to time.26. Subscriptionsa. The Club Committee shall in each financialyear fix the annual subscription rates for Members,due and payable at the start of the next subscriptionyear for each Member.b. A Member whose subscription is not paid 2months after the start of the subscription year forthat Member shall be deemed to have resigned atthe end of the previous subscription year.c. The Club Committee may fix reduced subscriptionsfor the following Members:i. full-time primary, secondary or tertiary studentswho can produce evidence of theirstudent status;ii. those under 25 years of age;iii. seniors over 65 years of age;iv. veterans who have been Members of the Clubfor more than 35 consecutive years.d. Subscriptions may be waived for veteranswho have been Members for more than 50 consecutiveyears, without loss of their membershiprights.e. Overseas Members’ subscriptions may beincreased to include an extra postage charge.f.. Members who are part of the same family,and who reside at the same address, may pay agroup subscription and receive a single copy ofthe New Zealand Alpine Journal and other Clubpublications. When choosing the family option,the primary Member in the family shall pay theappropriate subscription fixed under this rule.Other family members may pay half the appropriatesubscription fixed under this rule. Club correspondenceand publications will be addressed tothe primary Member.g. The Club Committee may in appropriatecircumstances refund in whole or in part the subscriptionof any Member.27. Section Levya. In order to finance Section activities the ClubCommittee shall in each financial year fix theannual Section levy for Members.b. The annual Section levy shall be uniformacross all Sections and shall form part of, and bedue for payment at the same time, as the ClubSubscription.c. The National Office on receipt of theMembers’ subscription shall forward this levy tothe Sections on a regular basis.d. Section Committees may utilise or refund anypart of this levy as their finances allow.28. Club Funds and Bank Accountsa. The Club Committee shall control all Clubfunds, except those held by Sections in their ownright, and shall open or authorise the opening ofsuch bank accounts as it deems necessary.b. All the Club’s funds, except those held bySections in their own right, shall be paid into theClub’s bank accounts, and shall be accessible onlyby authorised signatories following procedures setdown by the Finance Subcommittee.29. Investmentsa. The Finance Subcommittee may, subject toany directives, policies, strategies, plans and budgetsadopted by the Club Committee, invest any ofthe Club’s funds for such terms as it may think fitand, in doing so, it shall act prudently to:i. optimise investment returns while balancingrisk and return considerations;ii. ensure investments are liquid;iii. preserve capital invested and, where possible,achieve capital growth.b. The Finance Subcommittee shall furnishactivity reports on any investments and reservefunds held to the Club Committee meetings.d. A statement detailing investments and reservefunds held shall be included in the notes to thefinancial statements.30. Borrowing PowersThe Club Committee may borrow for and in thename of the Club such sums and upon such termsas it deems necessary and may give as security forthe repayment of the sums borrowed and interestthereon such security as it deems appropriate.31. Assistance to MembersThe Club Committee in its discretion and uponsuch terms as it sees fit shall have the power to provideassistance to Members in distress or otherwiserequiring such assistance, in connection with mountaineeringor rock climbing activities in New Zealandor overseas, provided that no part of the income andother funds of the Club is used or available to beused for the private pecuniary profit of any Member.46

GENERAL32. Execution of Contractsa, Contracts and other enforceable obligationsin writing shall be executed by the Club:i. by affixing the common seal of the Clubto the document pursuant to a resolution ofthe Club Committee in the presence of theHonorary Secretary and two members of the ClubCommittee, all of whom shall sign the documentto which the seal is affixed; orii. where the document is not required to beexecuted under common seal, by the ExecutiveOfficer signing on behalf of the Club pursuant toauthorisations and delegations approved by theClub Committee.b. The common seal of the Club shall be held inthe National Office.33. Minutesa. The Honorary Secretary shall record the minutesof General and Club Committee meetings,but in his/her absence the meeting shall appoint aMember present as a minute secretary.b. The Conveners of subcommittees shall ensurethat minutes of their meetings are kept.c. Minutes of General Meetings shall be sentto all Club Members for confirmation at the nextGeneral meeting. Minutes of other meetings listedabove shall be sent to respective committee andsubcommittee members for confirmation at theirnext meetings. Subcommittee minutes shall also besent to all members of the Club Committee.34. Noticea. Where notice under these rules is sent bypost, service shall be deemed to have been effectedon the day after the date of posting.b. Notice periods specified in these Rulesexclude the day on which the notice is served ordeemed to be served, and the day of the meeting.35. Rule Changesa. Any Member or Section desiring to changethe Club’s Rules shall submit in writing theproposed rule change to the National Office forconsideration at the next meeting of the ClubCommittee.b. The National Office, following the meetingof the Club Committee, shall send the proposaltogether with the Club Committee’s commentsand/or recommendations on it to Sections.c. At the discretion of the Club Committee orupon a requisition to the National Office signedby 25 Members, a postal vote of Members shall beheld to decide upon the proposed rule change.d. If a postal vote is not required the proposedrule change shall then be included in the businessto be transacted at the next Annual GeneralMeeting, or at a Special General Meeting, andnotice of the proposed rule change given accordingly.e. No rule may be made, altered or deletedexcept by a majority of two thirds of the votes castin a postal vote or of Members present or representedby proxy at a General Meeting.f. No rule alteration, deletion or addition to therules shall have the effect of altering the amateursports promotion status of the Club.36. Liquidationa. Provided all its liabilities have been dischargedthe Club may be put into liquidation if theClub, at a general meeting of Members, passes aresolution appointing a liquidator, and the resolutionis confirmed at a subsequent general meetingcalled for that purpose and held not earlier than30 days after the date on which the resolution tobe confirmed was passed and the provisions of theIncorporated Societies Act 1908 shall apply to suchresolutions and the liquidation of the Club.b. After being put into liquidation the funds andproperty of the Club shall be paid or transferredto an incorporated society or societies which haveobjects similar to those of the Club, as set out inthe resolution referred to in Rule 36.a.c. No resolution to put the Club into liquidationshall be valid unless it determines to which incorporatedsocieties the Club’s funds and property areto be paid or transferred.26 May 2007.Back cover: Cloud formation overLake Pukaki, Aoraki Mt Cook.Shaun Barnett. Acceptance. NZACPhotographic Competition 2008.47