Rock Wren Sightings - New Zealand Alpine Club

MakorakoMakorako is the highest peak in the Kaimanawa’sand is rarely climbed due to it’sutter remoteness.This peak had been calling my nameever since I first gazed longingly uponher after walking up to the ‘nearby’ (amere 11 hour day) Thunderbolt peak twoyears ago. She is such a prominent andenticing peak that I simply had to haveher. Since then I have had other fleetingglimpses of her from time to time. Shehad teased me, taunted me, and captiwords and images byMarcus Baivated me with her beauty. But above all,she had entranced me, and I knew thatone day she would be mine.There are a number of ways of approachingthis peak. The shortest and‘easiest’ way there involves climbing 3mountain ranges including a crossing ofthe Rangitikei River on the way. With around trip of 57km and a total ascent of awhopping 4400m it’s normally done as a4 or 5 day walk. This is the route I took,which I will describe below. However,Waitomo Bouldering CompetitionThis Weekend!The first competition of the 2011 NationalBouldering Series is this weekend.Saturday 5th February at Waitomo.So pack that picnic, drag out your boulderingmat and dust off those rock shoes and getalong to what promises to be a great day.Terrific prizes for all and the chance to be onyour way towards being the nextNational Bouldering Champion.Registration starts at 9am.Climbing starts at 10am sharp.See www.mbs.org.nz for more detailsWantedA new editor is required for putting together theCNI monthly newsletter. If interested pleasecontact Paul McCullagh paulm@vodafone.net.nzthis does entail crossing private land, forwhich permission must be obtained first.Another option is approaching from theeast which is not as hilly, but is further.If you’re not too worried about climbingthis in good style, you could evenfly into Boyd airstrip for a good headstart. However, from what I’ve heard, theMangimingi Saddle section is currentlyextremely difficult to get through, plusyou’re still having to cross private landthis way as well.One other option, which doesn’t involveaccess issues, is to approach viaThunderbolt peak and then up Ecologystream. I haven’t heard any news aboutthis route, so if anyone would like to givethis a go I would be most interested tohear how you got on.I had originally planned on attemptingthis as a two day walk with Craig, a fellowpeakbagger - who was perhaps evenmore obsessed than I was in caressingthis lovely young maidens voluptuouscurves. On that trip however we endedup missing a turn after Junction Top andhitting an impenetrable wall of bush, withthe river still a further 300 vertical metresbelow us (we made the classic mistake offollowing the track...). We later met someold timers who had climbed it 3 timesover the years and gave us some valuablebeta on the route through. WhenCNI NewsBouldering @ BrycesBryces Cafe at Wharepapa South,Tuesdays and Thursdays from 4.30pm.$5 entry - first visit free.A great little wall with loads of problemsto suit all levels.Phone: 07 872 2533Check this Out!It’s a short film featuring an Alpine Clubtrip to Mt Aspiring Hut and onto FrenchRidge. Very cool!http://www.nzonscreen.com/title/prelude-to-aspiring-1949Wharepapa Crag ClosurePopular Wharepapa Rock, morecommonly known as CastleRockis closed until further notice. It isanticipated the crag will reopen in thenext couple of weeks, once the newsignage has been installed informingcrag users of their responsibilitiesand a new sign-in and paymentsystem has been implemented.New signage is also being installed atFroggatt Edge outlining access termsand conditions.2

they heard we were wanting to do it in 2days they said that it was not possible.Not needing any further encouragement,a new challenge was immediately born - Idecided there and then that I now had todo it in one day. I returned this time andknocked off the round trip solo in 19.5hours...After only managing 2 hours sleep, Iset off from Umukarikari carpark with analpine start of 3:15am on Boxing Day.The walk in to Waipakihi hut only took me3.5 hours despite getting lost twice on theway. The first time was amongst somewindfall which always seems so muchtrickier in the dark. The second time wasafter emerging above the bushline at4:30am to be greeted by thick clag. Theheadlamp only produced a totally uselesswall of white in front of me, so I ended uptussock bashing in the darkness for quitea while in between stumbling upon theoccasional marker more by good fortunethan anything else. I eventually climbedabove the cloud and was up on top of thefirst ranges at Umukarikari summit justbefore sunrise. Makorako was beckoningnow, but still such a looong way away.After dropping down to Waipakihi hut fora second breakfast, I continued on up thetrack to Junction Top. It was a nice feelingto already be on top of the 2nd range,and yet it was still only 8:00am - so farso good. I followed the signpost pointingdown the ridge to the Rangitikei River.Don’t make the mistake of following thistrack all the way as we did the first time -you must take the left-hand spur part waydown. I didn’t see any sign of a track turningoff at this point, but it picks up againshortly afterwards.Fortunately my information was correct,and I was very relieved to find a recentlycut track at the bushline which took meall the way down to the stream whichruns below Ignimbrite Saddle. I followedthis for about 200m to the RangitikeiRiver,which I reached at 9:00am. There isa small campsite clearing about 50mdown river of here just inside the bush ifyou would like to stay a night. You cansee a cairn and yellow tape across theother side of the river at this point, whichis the start of a recently cut track thatleads up the spur on other side. I tookthis track up and then followed the ridgelinearound to the right across the topsto Te More which I reached at 10:45am.I was now on the 3rd set of ranges andI could see my route ahead with theridgeline turning sharp left again towardsthe now obvious Makorako peak. I foundtravel along these tops a bit slower dueto a slightly more scrubby nature to themand even a couple of very short bushbash sections.It was a long slog up to Peak 1699, butthe welcoming view of my mistress winkingat me from there was a fantastic andmuch anticipated sight at 12:30pm. Onefinal 30 minute summit push from thereand she was mine. A very satisfying summit.The views stretch forever in everydirection, and you feel as though you’restanding on top of the world. And a veryreal feeling of isolation - you are definitelyon your own out here! Now just the smalltask of returning…The route ahead from Te MoreGPS trail and elevation profilePoised for the final summit push.I finally got back to the carpark at10:45pm, and it wasn‘t long afterwardsthat I had to pull over in the car to throwup on the side of the road. I was verypleased to have apparently finally foundmy limit - maybe now I‘d be satisfied withwhat I‘d achieved and won‘t have to keepdoing any more of these pointlessmissions! A bit disappointed though tofind the rest of the family all sick in bedwhen I got home. Bugger, maybe that’sthe real reason why I was feeling a littlequeasy all day after all.Prior to leaving, I had gained permissionfor access through Junction Top and onto Makorako via Air Charter Taupo whohad been operating in this area for thelast 20 years. I was lucky - unbeknown tome at the time, it since turns out that AirCharter Taupo’s lease expired only a fewdays after my summit, on 31st December2010 and the situation in regardsto access is now uncertain. I’ve spokento DOC and they are still in negotiationwith East Taupo Lands Trust concerningaccess through here. Unfortunately theyare unable to give me any indication ofany possible outcomes or time framesat this stage, so it is best to treat accessas being closed for the time being until aresolution is, hopefully, reached soon.3

National OfficeCongratulations - 6 monthmembership extension winnerThe December winner of our free6-month membership extension isCanterbury/Westland Section memberDerek Thatcher. CongratulationsDerek, we value your continued supportof our clubJanuary’s 6 month memberhip extensionwinner is Warren Smith, also aCanterbury.Westland Section member.Congratulations Warren!Members are reminded that this is anongoing prize offer and the Februaryrenewals are coming up. To be in withthe chance to win this prize, pleaseget your renewals paid within the firsttwo weeks of February.NZAC Hut BookingsBookings for Arthur’s Pass, Ruapehuand Porter Lodge are handled throughthe National Office in Christchurch.These huts all have a keypad andthe office holds the codes for these.Please DO NOT contact section memberslooking for the key codes.The office is manned Monday toFriday until 5pm. Call Margaret inthe first instance for bookings +64(0)3 377 7595 or email margaret@alpineclub.org.nz if you don’t requirean instant reply.New Supply of Bolt HangersMetolius stainless steel hangers10mm, are now back in stock.$6.50 each for non-members or $5.00for members plus p&p. To order:http/alpineclub.org.nz/product/hanger-10mmPakistan Flood Appeal Let’s do our bit to help!The New Zealand Alpine Club received an appeal fro assistance from the AlpineClub of Pakistan (via UIAA) and in response we have set up a link to receive donationstowards flood affected areas in Pakistan.The Pakistan Alpine Club’s President, Nazir Sabir, is calling on the assistance of allmountaineering clubs across the globe to help with the unprecedented relief efforst.“In Gilgit and Baltistan hundreds have lost their lives, bridges have been damaged,and the KKH remains closed to traffic. There is an acute shortage of food, medicine,fuel and everything else.”We are now calling on NZAC members to support this cause by making donationstowards disaster relief, which the NZAC will pass on to major aid agencies workingin Pakistan and the Alpine Club of Pakistan.Many NZAC members have climbed in Pakistan and became friends with theguides, porters and drivers who looked after them. Your valuable contribution will goa long way towards helping flood victims in this time of need.To make a donation go to:http://alpineclub.org.nz/product/pakistan-flood-appealFMC Photo CompetitionThe 2011 FMC Photo Competition is now open. Entries close on 17 May (note: thisis earlier than the original date in November FMC Bulletin). The winner will be announcedat the 80th Conference/AGM in June.Entry details are available at:http://www.fmc.org.nz/services-to-clubs/photo-competition/For SaleClimbing Shoes,Boreal semi ridged sole Size 10 1/2 (45) worn approximately 3 times. $50Contact: Peter on 03 355 8333Gear HireIce Axe/Crampons/Helmets:$30 all 3 items per w’endor $15 each per w’endHarness/Carabiner/Figure 8 belay/Helmet: $30 all 3 items per w’endor $15 each per w’endTransceivers/Hammers/SnowShovels: $15 each per w’endCall Dennis Sanders on 07 856 6754CNI Members receive 30% discounton all Hire GearNewsletterIs there something you’d like tosee in this newsletter?We need ongoing stories aboutyour adventures in the greatoutdoors be it kayaking, mountainbiking, tramping, climbing.All ideas will be considered and allarticles will be published.paulm@vodafone.net.nzCommitte Members Contact DetailsPaul McCullagh Chairman/Section Rep. 021 872 613 paulm@vodafone.net.nzMarcus Bai Treasurer/Committee 07 839 3149 bai@xtra.co.nzDennis Sanders Gear Hire/Whangaehue Hut 07 856 6754 smsanders@xtra.co.nzCommittee/SnowCraft Coord.David Addison Banff Coordinator/Committee 07 853 9349 david.addison@thermalchemistry.co.nzCraig Hoskings Secretary/Committee 027 312 1006 craigh@waikato.ac.nzKevin Hammond Committee 027 480 9580 kevinh@winaggs.co.nz4