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InbalInbal Jerusalem MagazineSpring-Summer 2012

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Inbal Jerusalem MagazineSpring-Summer 2012Letter from the GMJoanne OdesEDITOR IN CHIEFDavid E. KaplanEDITORPnina GoldbergASSISTANT EDITORPUBLISHERAd.Lib Unlimited1507 Avenue MBrooklyn, NY 11230tel: 718-382-4200 fax: 718-645-1985email: ruth@adlibunlimited.comISRAEL OFFICEEl-Or Ltd.34 Yitzhak Sadeh St. Tel Aviv 67212tel: 972-3-537-0771 fax: 972-3-537-3627email: israelor@netvision.net.ilKety KAtavKety KatavART DIRECTORBat Chen NachmanyGRAPHICSLuda StekolILLUSTRATORDaniel WechsbergPRODUCTION DIRECTOROn The CoverCharming & Trendy.Jerusalem’s German Colony.(page 18)All rights reserved to Ad.Lib Unlimited.Reproduction in whole or in part of anymaterial in this publication is expresslyprohibited without the written permission ofAd. Lib Unlimited. The views, comments andopinions expressed in this publication are notnecessarily those of Ad Lib Unlimited or itsaffiliates and/or the Inbal Jeruslem Hotel andshall not in any way be held liable for anyerrors, inaccuracies or omissions regardingany of the material contained herein. Alladvertisements published herein are the soleresponsibility of the advertisers and the Hoteland the publisher accepts no responsibility fortheir content. 2012. All rights reserved.Dear Friends,It is my pleasure to welcome you to the Inbal Jerusalem Hotel and wish youa pleasant stay with us. You are visiting after a cold, wet and briefly snowywinter – always welcome - but you are now here in spring, an ideal time totour. Our wildflowers are in full bloom carpeting colorful swathes across thecountry. We recommend a walk in the Gilboa, famed for its wild irises noless than its biblical history. To learn more about this area read our article inthis issue titled: ‘A Walk on the Wild Side’.If you would prefer something still green but more urban and very muchcloser to the Inbal, consider either a day or night stroll through the nearbycosmopolitan and quant German Colony, replete with restaurants, coffeeshops, boutiques and late nineteenth century architecture.It is not only the wildflowers that are blooming. In recent years, so hasIsraeli’s movie industry which is going through a period of a renaissancewhich you too can read about in this issue. While have yet to win thecoveted Oscar, our filmmakers are striving for excellence as do we at theInbal as we begin a multi-million dollar refurbishment to our entrance, patio,bathrooms and much, much more.From flower to flour we have also included an illuminating article aboutbread – its history in Israel, its variety and its varying meanings and usagesin today’s parlance. Adding extra ‘flavor’ to the article, our Executive Chef,Moti Buchbut, is pleased to share with you one of his special bread recipes.We have also welcomed some new staff to our team, and in this issue youwill meet Sandra, our new Guest Relations Manager.We hope you enjoy your stay here in Israel and look forward to welcomingyou back soon.Sincerely,Bruno de SchuyterGeneral ManagerInbal Jerusalem Hotelwww.inbalhotel.com

Table of Contents8CultureThe Big PictureReutersKety Katav18TourismJerusalem’s German Colony26NatureA Walk on the Wild SideHerzl Center, Jerusalem34ZionismMeet Herzl On Mount Herzl38FoodOur Daily Bread44In at the InbalInbal Jerusalem Magazine

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CultureBy David E. KaplanThe Big PictureIsrael’s Blossomingfilm industryReutersBest at Berlin. Israeli director Joseph Cedar won the Silver Bear for Best Director at the 57th international Berlin film festival forhis film ‘Beaufort ‘. It was Israel’s first-ever Best Director Award at the Berlin Film Festival.The inference in the title of Israel’s movie entry at thisyear’s 2012 Oscars, ‘Footnote’, stood in sharp contrast tothe elevated global status of Israeli movies. This film’ssuccess - on the contrary - is a clear indication how far theIsraeli movie industry has emerged.While budgets for local movies have consistentlyover the decades been pitifully paltry, this hasnot prevented Israel surging ahead as a surprisingpowerhouse in the foreign film industry.While ‘Footnote’ lost out this year for an AcademyAward to the Iranian entry,‘Separation’ for Best ForeignLanguage Film, Israelis canfeel proud that it not onlymade it to the top five,but is Israel’s fourth suchnomination in the past fiveyears. Tally the score andIsrael stands alone as havingreceived more nominationsduring that period than anyother country.True, Israeli filmmakers havenot returned home with themuch-coveted gold-platedstatue hence the frequentlament:AND......ACTION! Cameras rolling in a scene from‘Infiltration’ filmed in Jerusalem with the directorDover Kashashvili (second left) and First AssistantDirector Dawn Leuchter (center, with light mauvecap).Spring-Summer 20128“Always a bridesmaid, never a bride”.Nevertheless, there is more to be proud of than to pineover as the industry’s trajectory in recent years hasbeen nothing less than “a remarkable renaissance” asexpressed by the Los Angeles Times.A Question ofTasteThe darling today atinternational film festivals,Israeli movies have come along way from the ‘Bourekas’films - the cheap comicmelodramas of the sixtiesand seventies. The term wassupposedly coined by theIsraeli film director BoazDavidson, the creator ofseveral such films, as a playon-words,after the Italianmade ‘Spaghetti Westerns’.

Ran MendelsonStiff Competition. The tension at the Oscars in the Foreign Film category, was no less than in Israel’s entry, Footnote wherethe father and son antagonists are played by Lior Ashkenazi, the son (left) and Shlomo Bar Aba, the father (right).Spring-Summer 20129

CultureJust as the ‘Bang bang, shoot ’em up’ sub-genre wasnamed after a mainstay dish in the country of filming -Italy - so the Israeli ‘cheapies’ were named after a localpopular stuffed pastry.A common theme of the ‘Bourekas’ movies was theconflict between Mizrahi and Ashkenazi Jews - thehero usually Mizrahi, and almost always poor, shrewd,and street smart, who comes into conflict with theinstitutions of the state or figures of Ashkenazi originthe subject of conflict, focused on family conflict - twoprofessors of the Talmud, a father and son, dueling foracademic prestige and a coveted national prize. Theconflict was cerebral - a battle of egos -compounded bythe intimacy of the protagonists.Cedar, who immigrated to Israel from New York withhis parents when he was six, frequently draws on hispersonal religious observance to imbue his movies withauthentic Jewish themes. “When you see a ChineseCourtesy United King FilmsWar Zone. Scene from the 2007 war movie ‘Beaufort’, about an IDF unit stationed at the Beaufort post in Southern Lebanonshortly before the Israeli withdrawal in 2000. Apart from Joseph Cedar taking the Silver Bear for directing at the BerlinInternational Film Festival, the film was also nominated for an Academy Award for Best Foreign Language Film.- mostly portrayed as rich, conceited, arrogant and coldhearted.Bourekas films were an amalgam of melodrama,comedy and slapstick.What was refreshing about ‘Footnote’ was that it hadnothing to do with Israel’s conflict with the Arabworld, nor the ethnic conflict within Israeli society thatcharacterized the earlier periods of Israeli cinema.The previous three Israeli films prior to ‘Footnote’ thatmade it to the Oscar shortlist, all dealt with the country’stroubled relations with its Arab neighbors. Both‘Beaufort’, nominated in 2008, and ‘Waltz with Bashir’,nominated the following year, explored the traumaticexperiences of Israeli soldiers in Lebanon. The next bighope was ‘Ajami’ nominated in 2010, which depictedArab-Jewish tensions in a violence-ridden neighborhoodof Tel Aviv’s southern port suburb of Jaffa.‘Footnote’ on the other hand, while still addressingfilm, you often feel it is rooted in some kind of Chinesetradition,” he told the LA Times. “The Talmud is ourprimary text, our tradition. It’s something I want to dealwith if I am making movies in Israel.”The Big BreakEmbarrassed by the “Bourekas films” with its obsessionwith ethnic stereotypes, a group of Israeli moviemakersestablished in 1979 the “Israeli Fund to EncourageQuality Films.”It failed, and the industry continued to flounder for afurther two decades as filmmakers remained dependanton the support of public funds, which remained paltryat best. When Hagai Levi and Ori Sivan - both wouldemerge as key figures in a new generation of filmmakers- graduated in 1990 from Tel Aviv University’s FilmSpring-Summer 201210

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CultureSchool, the future looked bleak. “The Israeli industrywas a desert,” says Levi. “There was only one state-runtelevision channel and it was very poor. We were thefirst class to grow up in the industry.”The situation was to deteriorate even further.In 1995, the government cut public funding for cinemain half. This translated into producing only five films ayear. Depression set in, reflected in the revelation thatonly 0.3 percent of Israeli moviegoers were purchasingtickets to see Hebrew-language cinema. “In otherwords,” recalled Katriel Schory, Executive Director ofthe Israel Fund, “36,000 tickets out of 10 million.”The industry had hit an all-time low.The enfolding ‘fight back’ drama now took on the scriptof ‘an all-action movie’.The national film body changed their fund’s name, tothe Israel Film Fund, and in 2000 it appealed to theKnesset (Israeli parliament) for nothing less than the“salvation” of Israeli cinema. The Knesset responded likethe cavalry arriving in the nick of time in a Hollywoodwestern, boosting the budget to $10 million a year forinvestment in feature films. Furthermore, the Knessetmandated that “young filmmakers” must be affordedthe opportunity to make a name for themselves.It worked!This changed scenario gave Joseph Cedar, the Israelidirector of the Oscar-nominated films ‘Footnote’ and‘Beaufort,’ his first big break. Fresh out of film school,the Israel Film Fund supported his first feature, ‘Time ofFavor’, which débuted in 2000.“We didn’t know him, but he had enthusiasm. There wassomething about his passion,” said Schory. “We took achance.”It was a chance that paid off handsomely.The boost in public funding snowballed with investmentsin Israeli cinema coming from European and Canadianproducers increasing the number of films Israel puts outannually from five to nearly twenty.A New DawnIsrael’s television industry has also blossomed in recentyears. After cable channels and a commercial TV stationbroke the monopoly and monotony of a lone state-runchannel in the early 90s, there was a sudden interestfor new TV content, spurring competition and creativityamong local screenwriters. One person who returned toIsrael from New York to be a part of this new trend wasDawn Leuchter, a graduate of New York’s prestigiousSchool of Visual Arts where the film she produced forher thesis went on to take top prize at a film festival.This led to her working in New York for seven years asa First Assistant Director for a number of independentfilms, a position she now holds when on productionin Israel. The first set she worked on when returningto Israel in 2009 was Dover Kashashvili’s HitganvutYechidim (‘Infiltration’), “which did not make it abroad,but was a big hit locally winning the Israel Film Center’sKazablanWhen Bourekas is a Rare DishAlthough categorized as a Bourekas film, because ofits content and stereotypical characters, the 1974 movieadaptation of the runaway hit musical, Kazablan,directed by the legendary Menahem Golan, stands headand shoulders above the rest. It proved an internationalsuccess and made the young Jerusalem-born singer,Milner Moshe, The National Photo CollectionYehoram Gaon, not only an overnight singing sensation,but also a figure of solidarity and pride for people ofSephardic origin.Described as a Jewish adaptation of ‘Romeo and Juliet’,and the musical version of ‘West Side Story’, the plotinvolved a man and woman who fall in love acrossdifferent cultures - Kazablan the Sephardic Jew fromMorocco in love with Rachel, an Ashkenazi Jew fromEurope. While the two lovers share religion, theircontrasting cultures and ethnicities fuel communityscandal and a bitter family feud.The movie transcends time and is still watched enthusiasticallytoday.Director and producer of ‘Kazablan’, Menahem Golan is alsobest known for his 1977 film Operation Thunderbolt aboutthe successful Israeli raid on Entebbe airport also starringYehoram Gaon. Golan, together with his cousin Yoram Globus,produced many Hollywood action movies starring the likes ofSylvester’s Stallone, Charles Bronson and Chuck Norris, and isremembered too for the 1978 cult movie, Eskimo Limon (LemonPopsicle) which spawned a number of sequels.Spring-Summer 201212

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CultureDistribution Award at the 2010 Jerusalem Film Festival.”Set in the early 1950s, the story follows the lives ofconscripts in a three-month boot camp. Rather thanpreparing for war against a foreign foe, the battle hereis of young men at the bottom end of the social ladderwho dream of ascending to the top. The characters -Ashkenazim, new immigrants from North Africa andEurope, holocaust survivors, secular and religious men –find themselves on the extreme margins of society, andtheir battle is for personal survival, status and identity.Dawn’s next set as First Assistant Director was on the hitseries Hatufim, which won the Best Drama series by theIsraeli Academy for Television in 2010. The acclaimed‘Homeland’ series in the States hailed as “one of the bestshows to hit the small screen” is based on Hatufim. TheIsraeli series traces what happens when two soldiers in theIsrael Defense Forces return after being held captive bySyria for seventeenyears. The Americanversion featuresClaire Danes as aCIA officer whotracks a US Marine(actor DamienLewis) who shesuspects has beenturned into a spyafter being held asa prisoner by al-Qaida.This is not the firstIsraeli TV show tobe snapped up byHollywood.HBO bought ‘InTreatment’ (BeTipulin Hebrew), whichArt director & illustrator: David Polonskywent on to win numerous industry awards.The Israelitelevision drama revolves around the personal andprofessional life of an Israeli psychologist, ReuvenDagan - played by Assi Dayan, son of the famed MosheDayan - who treats patients at his clinic five days a weekand then seeks psychological treatment for himself.Hagai Levi, the co-creator of the original show, is one ofthe executive producers on the American versionFollowing the American adaptation which premiered inJanuary 28, 2008 starring Gabriel Byrne as Dr. Paul Weston,the equivalent character to Reuven Dagan, the serieshas caught on throughout Europe with HBO producinglocal versions in Poland, Hungary, the Czech Republic,Slovakia, Romania and Moldovia with Hagai Levi servingas executive producer. It has also been adapted by othernetworks in Serbia, Slovenia and the Netherlands.As the saying goes, “there is no better form of flattery thanimitation” and this series – BeTipul - is a shining example.Spring-Summer 201214Tables TurnedWhile Israel had been mostly at the receiving end ofAmerican cultural imports in the live television genre -particularly reality shows like ‘Survivor’, ‘Amazing Race’,‘The Bachelor’, ‘American Idol’, and more recently ‘TheVoice’, to name but a few - it’s no longer all one waytraffic.In December 2011, NBC’s ‘Who’s Still Standing?’ whichhas contestants dropping through the floor, made itsAmerican debut as the first Israeli quiz show to find itsway to the States.“Who’s Still Standing?” has been sold to thirteencountries including Spain, Hungary and France sinceLisa Shiloach-Uzrad created the show in 2010 with AmitStretiner. The duo are also the creative team behind “TheFrame”, a reality show hybrid of “Big Brother” and “TheAmazing Race” thathas sold in thirtycountries and isdue to make its wayto the CW Networkin the United Statesin 2012. “TheFrame”, developedspecifically forinternationalaudiences, featureseight coupleswho live in smallrooms around theclock for all to see.Confronting dailychallenges, theaudience votes offthe least popularcouple. “You seelots of reality shows where you take people out of theirnatural environment and put them into a fantasy land. Inthis case we said, what can be more intense than beingclosed in with your partner for six to eight weeks in avery small space?” Shiloach-Uzrad said.Twenty years after Israeli television broke away from itsone channel model of mostly news, and British or USdrama imports, young local producers are making theirmark internationally.Elsewhere, apart from Showtime’s criticallyacclaimedpsychological thriller “Homeland” whichhas its creative roots in Israel, HBO is making a USversion of Israeli crime drama “The Naked Truth”.“We have to work with low budgets. This means youreally have to find smart and creative solutions to makethings work,” said Shiloach-Uzrad.“With scripted shows, you have to lean on high qualitywriting and good acting and great characters becauseRevisiting a Dark Past. The eerie and ominous opening scene from the2008 animated documentary film ‘Waltz with Bashir’, written and directedby Ari Forman.

Art director & illustrator: David PolonskySeeking Truth. ‘Waltz with Bashir’ depicts the director Ari Forman (seen here) in search of his lost memories from the 1982 LebanonWar. The film won a Golden Globe Award for Best Foreign Language Film, a NSFC Award for Best Film, a César Award for BestForeign Film and was nominated for an Academy Award for Best Foreign Language Film.Spring-Summer 201215

CultureReutersRed Carpet. Israeli director Amos Gitai (center) with Israeli Palestinian actresses Hiam Abbass (left) and Hanna Laslo the starsof Free Zone arriving at the 58th Cannes Film Festival in 2005. Nominated for the Palme d’Or, the honors went to Laslo who wonthe Best Actress Award.there is no money for Hollywood special effects or carchases to cover up for weak plots,” she said.Yes Cannes DoIf 1995 was the low point in Israel’s movie industry- only 0.3 percent of Israeli moviegoers purchasedtickets to see Hebrew-language movies - how thingshad changed by 2005, when Israeli actress Hanna Laslostepped onstage at the Cannes Film Festival to acceptthe Best Actress award for her performance in AmosGitai’s ‘Free Zone’. She won against the likes of JulietteBinoche, Julie Delpy and Sharon Stone.Her triumph reflected no less a triumph for the receptionof Israeli movies both at home and abroad. Apart from themany prizes Israeli films had won at international festivals,well over a million Israelis purchased tickets to see locallymade films that year - a far cry from a decade earlier!Although ‘Free Zone’ was the first time one of Gitai’sfilms had won a major award at Cannes, it was thefourth time his movies – ‘Kadosh’ (1999), ‘Kippur’ (2000)and ‘Kedma’ (2002) - had been shown in the maincompetition at the festival. Aside from Cannes, his 2004‘Promised Land’ - a look at prostitution in Israel - took atop prize at the 2004 Venice Film Festival. Between 1999and 2011 seven of his films were entered in the CannesFilm Festival for the Golden Palm Award as well as theVenice Film Festival for the Golden Lion award.‘Free Zone’ also stared Jerusalem-born and HebrewUniversity graduate Natalie Portman who won theOscar for Best Actress in Black Swan in 2011.Gitai, who has made over forty films, includingSpring-Summer 201216documentaries, feature films and shorts, customarilydelves into history while exploring questions of identity. In“Kippur,” he drew on his own memories of combat in theYom Kippur War. In ‘Kedma’ he examined the conflictsfaced by Holocaust survivors who arrived in Palestineillegally by boat, while ‘Kadosh’ was a portrait of two ultra-Orthodox sisters who felt alienated in their community.Gitai poignantly articulates why Israel is such a specialcountry in which to make movies.“Israel in my mind is like a kind of open archeologicalsite of human destinies, and in some ways cinema hasthe capacity sometimes to trace the origin of the projectand the contradictions, the way they would reemerge inthe present,” he said.This being said, Gitai’s most recent film ‘Roses à crédit’(2010) was shot entirely in France, where neither Israelnor the Shoah (Holocaust) was ever mentioned. After acareer of twenty years making films that explore Israelihistory, politics, culture and memory, ‘Roses à crédit’was a bold new adventure for Gitai. The film appears asthe work of a master moving in a new artistic directionshaking off parochial constraints.In a sense, it represents the evolving Israel of the newmillennium – of a nation on a treadmill constantlyexploring new ideas and changing landscapes.This brings us back to the long walk on Hollywood’s redcarpet and the elusive Oscar!Despite the too many close calls at the Academy Awardsover recent years, it is only a question of time when Israelwill finally find itself elevated from bridesmaid to bride.When it happens, a hearty “mazeltov” will be heardthroughout the Jewish world.

Kety KatavDown Memory Lane. Side streets immersed in history,exude charm and trendy lifestyles.Spring-Summer 201219

TourismChurch built in 1927 and decorated with Armenianceramic tiles. Some of the old Templer homes stillhave biblical inscriptions in German on their lintels.Interwoven with the architecture is the exuberant andcolorful variety of trees, flowers, hedges and creepersinviting the wondering visitor to follow one street afteranother. Even the street names tell a story adding to theGerman Colony’s mystique.StreetwiseMany of the side streets are named after Gentilesupporters of Zionism and the Jewish people. Apartfrom the French author Émile Zola, CzechoslovakianPresident Tomas Masaryk, and South African PrimeMinister Jan Smuts, a number of the streets are namedafter Britons, such as the Liberal Prime Minister DavidLloyd George, British Labour Party leader JosiahWedgewood, Colonel John Henry Patterson, commanderof the Jewish Legion in World War I and the pro-ZionistBritish general, Wyndham Deeds. Walking these streetsand piecing together why these particular personalitiesof the past were so honored to have streets named afterthem, offers the curious visitor a history lesson on thehistory of modern Israel.Corrine Devar is an English-speaking resident and anestate agent in the German Colony and neighboringBaka for over 25 years. Baka, nestled between the oldrailroad track of the German Colony - today a newlyopened railway park, where the main pedestrian pathfollows the original track and well worth a visit - andDerech Hebron, “has merged both physically andatmospherically with the German Colony,” says Devar.Situated up until 1948 on the border between JordanheldJerusalem and Israel, Baka today, like the GermanColony, is also well-known for its quant cafés and leafylanes.Hebrew is only one of many languages you hear today inthis area – the most common could even be English. Asa metaphor of the area’s rich cosmopolitan atmosphere,Devar refers to an impressive residential developmentthat she had been selling ever since it was built twentyyears previously on Lloyd George Street. A complexwith majestic arches and internal garden walkways, itruns from Derech Beit Lechem (Bethlehem Road) inBaka to Emek Refaim in the German Colony. “Thereare residents here from the UK, USA, Canada, Holland,Denmark, France and of course, Israelis.” She jokinglyKety KatavMeticulously Restored. This 1877 Templer house on RehovEmek Refaim is today the new offices of the philanthropicfoundation Keren Bracha.Cultural Landmark. The Smadar Theater founded in 1928continues to pack in the arty crowd.refers to the complex as the “United Nations”. Wherein the early days, overseas people used to purchaseproperty as holiday residences, “today most buy tosettle here. It’s such a wonderful area, well located andhas everything to offer.” Devar says many of her clientstoday are children of earlier clients and “looks forwardto selling to their grandchildren.”Residents today include bankers, investment consultants,international lawyers, those in hi-tech and industry andmany in academia and the arts.Culture Oasis“The area,” says Devar, “prides itself as being a culturalhub and it comes as no surprise that top writers andjournalists chose to live here.”Preserving its cultural heritage did not come without afight as typified in the ‘Save the Smadar’ campaign. After80 years as a place of entertainment, the famed andiconic Art Deco style Smadar Theater on Lloyd GeorgeSpring-Summer 201220

TourismStreet was destined to make way for another luxuryresidential complex. Given the theater’s mythologicalplace in the City’s cultural history, signatures andshekels counter-attacked in an epic battle worthy of amovie to grace it’s screen. A favorite theater for localswith its art-house cinema atmosphere, café and quantlocation, the Smadar also boasted being the only theaterin Jerusalem where patrons could bring in beer from thebar, along with a carton of popcorn. Given the villagelikeatmosphere of suburban Jerusalem, patrons alwaystended to know someone else in the theater.The Jerusalem Post, a writer of books and a senior fellowat the Institute of Security Studies at Tel Aviv University(TAU) – lives in nearby Talpiot but finds the atmosphereof the German Colony so “cerebrally in-spiring”, thathe chose to rent an office on Emek Refaim in 2010 towrite his latest book. “A friend of mine’s secretary in hiscompany’s office overlooking the popular muni-cipalpool, took maternity leave, so I rented the space andgave birth to my book.” The result “which took less thannine months” was ‘The Anatomy of Israel’s Survival’.Hirsch’s latest offspring won the National Jewish BookKety KatavSidewalk Café. To relax, dine, socialize and work, the restaurants and cafés of the German Colony are a constant hive of activity.Embedded into local culture no less than thecharacteristic rock of this hilly and holy city, the Smadarnot surprisingly appears in one of Yehuda Amichai’spoems, ‘Tichye Reviit’. The Smadar was a symbol ofpluralism in Jerusalem and was the first theater to stayopen on Shabbat, offering a Sabbath alternative forsecular Jerusalemites.And so the Smadar Theater – first used by the Britishsoldiers during the Mandate period before opening tothe general public in 1935 as the ‘Orient’ – survived.It stands as a landmark, not only architecturally but astestimony to the power of the people to preserve culturalicons. “It screens mostly arty movies,” says Devar “butadding to its attraction are its café and bar situated in itslobby.” It’s well worth a visit whether to take in a movie,admire the architecture or enjoy a cup of coffee at itspopular café.Numbering amongst the many local residential literati isSaul Singer, an American-Israel journalist and author whoco-wrote with Dan Senor, the international bestseller,Start-Up Nation: The Story of Israel’s Economic Miracle.On the other hand, Hirsch Goodman, a former editor ofThe Jerusalem Report, a regular op-ed correspondent forAward in the history category for 2011.Goodman says he used to enjoy walking to and fromwork each day. “It’s such an exquisite area, full of oldworldcharm, character and color; so many different typesof people, languages and what a choice of restaurantsand cafés to satiate the body other than the mind.” Thenet result, says Goodman, “I had way too much coffee.”GenesisClearly the first residents of the German Colony wouldhardly have approved of today’s vibrant, cosmopolitanatmosphere. The Templers, who settled in the areain 1873, were Christians who had broken away fromthe Protestant church and encouraged their membersto settle in the Holy Land to prepare for Messianicsalvation. Their homes, built in a style to which theywere accustomed to in Germany - farmhouses of one ortwo stories, with slanted roofs, shuttered window andbuilt of stone rather than wood and bricks - ran alongtwo parallel streets that would become Emek Rafaimand Bethlehem Road. Their wait for the Messiah cameto an abrupt end during the World War II, when theSpring-Summer 201222

Kety KatavMagical & Majestic. Jerusalem stone-walled homes, covered inlush flora abound throughout the ‘Moshava’s’ streets and lanes.Spring-Summer 201223

TourismDave KaplanDave KaplanWalk the Line. Passing this beautiful home, where stone and nature mesh in a tapestry of visual serenity, one arrives at the new Railwayscenic pedestrian path.British Mandatory government deported the Templersto Australia. As Germans, they were considered enemycitizens, all the more so because they made little effortto disguise their Nazi sympathies.The next residents were Christian Arabs attracted byits location between Bethlehem and the developingneighborhoods of Katamon, Talbiya and Baka, populatedby some of Jerusalem’s wealthiest Arabs. Like the Templerstheir residency too came to a climatic end through war.However, the upheaval of 1948 was not an existentialstrife a world away but an eruption on their doorstep.In the wake of the fierce battles during Israel’s War ofIndependence, the Arab residents of the German Colonyand Baka fled, abandoning their homes. These abodeswere soon taken over by Jews “exiled from the OldCity,” says local resident Dennis Diamond. “It was in away a population exchange. A large percentage of thesepeople were Sepharadim of generational Jerusalemitesand they established in the German Colony an echocommunity of their life in the Old City. Over the ensuingyears, the area attracted young Israeli families as thehousing was affordable. The population was mixedand interesting and when I arrived in the mid-seventiesthere was this sense of continuity as most of theoriginal residents from 1948 were still living here. It waswonderful being part of this community – exuding anambiance of romanticism and familiarity - characteristicsthat endure to this day.”Diamond, originally from Johannesburg and one of theearlier pioneers of English-speakers to this area hasmade a significant contribution through his involvementSpring-Summer 201224in project management and interior design in preservingthe architectural legacy of the area. He recalls how in theearly days “I was so agitated about changing features ina building that had been doing fine for nearly a centurybefore I came along.” For this reason, he reveals witha smile, “In my own home, we lived for many winterswith drafty wooden windows because I could not bringmyself to change them.”Anyway, continues Diamond, “From the late 1980s,architects designed with greater sensitivity whenmodernizing old buildings.” He credits Jerusalem’sillustrious former mayor, Teddy Kolek for “this newdirection.”Preserving the PastThe eighties in Jerusalem, says Diamond, were plaguedwith a huge spate of high-rise building out of sync withthe character of the city. “Teddy assembled a team ofinternational people – all lovers of Jerusalem – who heinspired in the physical tapestry of the city and who in turnadvised him to appoint an international team of architectsand urban developers to monitor future building. Theywere not necessarily Jewish, but all prominent in theirfield and whose advice he solicited and heeded. Theyhad no authority but exercised influence because Teddylistened. The new trend was soon apparent when forexample the design for the then new Hyatt Hotel -planned as a multi-storied tower complex – was sentback to the drawing board. The end result instead was alayered structure on the side of the mountain in a typical

The key to your financial securityBank of Jerusalemבלומנקרנץ ושות'‏ Park, (right) where the original train track from the 1890s is now aYerushalmi or Middle Eastern style. Similarly, the originalgrandiose plans for the Inbal Hotel was modified creatingthe poignantly sensitive structure you have today, inkeeping with Jerusalem’s landscape.”The new mindset impacted on the German Colony’sstructural future. “Preservation laws were enforced andso when homes were renovated from the 1980s, theydid not lose their character; most certainly the ones Iwas involved in. My approach to modernizing was tointerfere minimally.”Diamond believes that what generally transpired was“that the more sensitive new architects joined forceswith the stronger old guard of the profession who hadwanted to preserve more strongly the character of thecity. The result is that new developments are emulatingthe style of the old German Colony buildings thus inkeeping with the neighborhood’s architectural legacy.”All in all, says Diamond, “it’s been very excitingarchitecturally to live in this neighborhood.”Diamond says he is moved when he looks out fromhis balcony and sees tourists standing below on thepavement, staring up at his double-storied home. “Thetour groups are forever stopping below with their guidesgesticulating towards my property then the adjacentone and followed by homes across the street. Once thepreserve of mainly locals, today the German Colonyattracts tourists in their multitudes daily”You too may want to join a tour or walk in the GermanColony at your own leisure. It would be well worth avisit. Who knows? You may even be inspired thereafterto read the poetry of Yehuda Amichai!Spring-Summer 201225Bank of Jerusalem invites you to enjoyfinancial stability and peace of mind…Enjoy the highest standards of private banking,with an unparalleled level of personal andprofessional service.Our renovated branch on Keren Hayesod streethouses a long history of superlative banking toour overseas clients, providing comprehensivesolutions to all their financial needs.At the Bank of Jerusalem we continue to serveour satisfied clients and provide consultationon a broad spectrum of savings and depositplans, global capital markets and real estatefinancing.Now is the time to take a new look atyour investments in Israel and abroad, andconsult with our team of dedicated bankingprofessionals.18 Keren Hayesod Street, Jerusalem | Tel: 972-76-8095030Email: bankjer@bankjerusalem.com | www.bankjerusalem.com

NatureBy Solly SteeleA Walk onthe Wild SideMark Neyman, The National Photo CollectionRed Carpet. Come spring and wild flowers adorn the Gilboa.The Big Walk. All ages participate in the annual walk heldeach March.Every spring, wildflowers carpet the green mountainrange of the Gilboa in a swath of purple, violet, red, pink,white and yellow. It is no wonder that more and moreoverseas visitors are joining local Israelis to explore thismajestic mountain range rich in flora as it is in ancientbiblical history.pectacular!” was the way Mark Reichenberg from“SKfar Saba described the view as he disembarkedoff the bus to start the eleven kilometer walk from the topof Mt. Gilboa to the finish at Ma’ayan Harod. Stretchingout his left arm, Mark points towards Mt. Tabor – the siteof the battle between Barak and the army of Jabin duringthe leadership period of Deborah, the only woman tobecome a Judge in ancient Israel - and then moving hishand across to the right, he animatedly exclaims, “Seekids, you can see the snow on Mount Hermon.”From the heat of an ancient battle, to the chilly peaks ofa faraway mount, a colorful tapestry of past and presentmesh in visual harmony.The Reichenberg family was amongst some 12,000participants who could chose the 5 kilometer ‘family’track, the 11 kilometer ‘regular’ route, or the 20 kilometer‘international’ track organized each year by the IsraelSports for All Association. “Last year we had over 500foreigners, many of them who came in groups fromGermany, Holland, Belgium and quite a number fromthe Far East,” says Hagay Herzel, Chairman of IsraelSport for All Association. Asked what is special aboutthe Gilboa Big Walk, Hagay began panting as if he hadjust completed the walk in a rush to get the words out.“Firstly, let me say that this walk is quite unique in thatit is no less a cultural activity than a sports event. Thisis what our overseas participants say every year. Why?Because when they walk elsewhere in the world, theymainly come across professional walkers or at leastvery serious walkers. Here their walk not only connectsthem to the land of Israel but the people of Israel.They discover not only new sights but insights intoour Israeli way of life – notably how we are such afamily-orientated society.” It is this characteristic saysHagay “which illuminates the Gilboa walk no less thanthe glare of the sun upon our colorful wildflowers.” Hewas right. Families of three generations were walkingtogether – grandparents, children and grandchildren,Spring-Summer 201226

Abir SultanNahum Budin, PhotoStock-Israel.comA Sight to Behold. A view from the Gilboa of the green Jezreel valley below.Spring-Summer 201227

NatureHistory & Beauty go Hand in HandLying in the north of Israel, separating the Harodand Jezreel valleys and souring 1600 feet towards theheavens, Israelis flock here every year from Februaryto April to see the array of colorful wildflowers, inparticular, the famed purplish Gilboa Iris (Iris Haynei).Equally alluring to many is the attraction to ‘walk’through the pages of the Bible which depicts Mt. Gilboaas a place of tragedy and triumph. Many a visitor willpack into their rucksacks alongside their picnic hamper,a small copy of the Old Testament. It will serve as theirspiritual GPS, and they will read relevant passages atspecific locations where events in the Bible dramaticallyunfolded over 3000 years ago.Many stories from the Prophets occurred at or aroundGilboa. Afterthe battle of Ai,Joshua built analtar on Mt. Eival(near Gilboa)and read theTorah to theIsraelites (Joshua8:30-38). Later,Gideon set up acamp on the baseof the Gilboa atEin Harod, toprepare for thebattle againstthe Midianites(Judges 7:1-25).And here lies aninteresting story:Gideon had beeninstructed byG-d to cut hisarmy into a smallforce of 300 men,to prove that aThe famed Gilboa irisesvictory wouldsignify divine intervention rather than superiority innumbers. Whittling his forces down to a level seeminglyacceptable to the Almighty while still retaining a crediblefighting force was tricky. The first cut came voluntary –after all, faced with a choice, many preferred to skipthe battle. This hardly upset Gideon as it still left himwith too many in his ranks. So he devised a plan: Heinstructed his men to drink from the waters of Harod:those who went face down to drink neglected to keepan eye out and hence were vulnerable to a surpriseattack. The few who thought to drink from their handsdisplayed caution. Only 300 men passed the test and thebattle that followed was won.Not so lucky was King Saul and his sons (Samuel I:31)who were slain on Mt Gilboa. While David cursed Mt.Gilboa, appealing to the Almighty to deprive it of rainso it may remain barren for all time (Samuel II 1:21),The Jewish National Fund had other ideas. Nevertheless,there still remain some sections fiercely resistant tomodern technology.The curse of David and modern science wrestle to thisday!Modern TimesThe man creditedwith the reemergenceofJewish settlementin the Gilboa aftera hiatus of some3000 years, isYehoshua Hankin,later known as the“Redeemer of theValley”. As earlyas 1891 he begannegotiating forland – many ofthe deals fallingthrough – until1909 when the firstparcel of land waspurchased and wasused to establishin 1911, MoshavMerhavia, the firstsettlement in thevalley. Hankinis buried on Mt.Gilboa overlookingthe land that he liberated. Moshav Kfar Yehoshua is namedafter him and serves as a living memorial to his exploits.Merhavia which in Hebrew means “Great Enlargement -G-d”, is derived from the Book of Psalms 118:5:“Out of my distress I called upon the LORD: the LORDanswered me and set me free in a large place.”This resonates with the history of Jewish emigration atthe time who “the LORD set free” from the persecutionof Europe to reclaim the land of their forefathers.History and beauty – as always in Israel – go hand inhand.Spring-Summer 201228

Nature“and many great-grand children,” quips Hagay. “Thisyou hardly see at organized walks abroad where entirefamilies walk together in such numbers.”Also, adds Hagay proudly, “We cater for those of specialneeds both children and adults,” and this too was evidentas the writer observed people of varying ages andhandicaps ready to start the spectacular descent downinto the valley below – an inviting green patchwork offertile farmland.This March celebrated the 46th International Gilboacertificate, badge and an energy bar. My wife Philipawill be participating in her twentieth walk.” This year,Benny says, “we have included in the short route a newgroup category of participants – kindergarten kids withtheir parents.” Hagay’s observation about Israeli societyand nature truly shapes up on the Gilboa.While most walkers carry rucksacks with liquids andsnacks, “there are many, particularly those fromoverseas who pack in a bible. Hagar relates during onewalk receiving a call on his cellphone from a walkerNir Ben-Yosef, PhotoStock-Israel.comRural Tranquility. A colorful patchwork of the Gilboa countryside.Big Walk, “the oldest organized walk in the country,”says Benny Segal, who Inbal Magazine interviewedbefore the event. Benny is a member of Kibbutz Jezreellying in the shadow of the Gilboa and is also the CityEngineer for the Gilboa region. Benny has been one ofthe organizers of the Big Walk for over twenty years andis in charge of organizing the buses from the public carpark at Ma’ayan Harod to transport the participants tothe top of the mountain. “I see them again when theyarrive at the bottom where each participant receives afrom South Korea. “Oy veh! I thought my Christianfriend was in trouble. Not at all – he was ecstatic. Hehad reached the last five kilometers of the walk throughthe forest of Mediterranean pine, and had come acrossthe monument to King Saul. He said he was holdinghis bible and reading passages from Samuel. He keptrepeating “I cannot believe it, I cannot believe it.” Hewas mesmerized by standing at the spot where it isbelieved that 3000 years before, Saul, the first King ofIsrael and his sons, died fighting the Philistines.”Spring-Summer 201230

The Wrath of DavidThe monument made up of white stones appeared tothe writer as an ancient drinking vessel. It was here thatHagay’s South Korean friend read the passage:“And it came to pass on the morrow, when the Philistinescame to strip the slain, that they found Saul and histhree sons fallen in mount Gilboa.” (Samuel I 38:8).One of those fallen sons was Jonathan, the best friendof David who followed Saul as king. Despite the falloutbetween David and King Saul, David lamented theirOver the years, some have taken this curse literally, asthe reason for the baldness of sections of Mt. Gilboa.However, in more recent times, the Jewish NationalFund (KKL-JNF) has planted thousands of trees thathave greatly changed the topography of the mountain,although some bare spots still remain. Benny confirmsthat “even with today’s modern technology, nothing willgrow in these tough resistant spots.” The long arm ofDavid’s wrath persists through the millennia.Despite the ancient connection of war to the Gilboa,passing in a poem he composed, whose words - manybelieve - resonate to this day.“The pride of Israel is slain upon thy heights.How are the heroes fallen!Ye mountains of Gilboa!Let there be no dew and no rain upon you,Nor fields for first-fruit offerings;For there the shields of the heroes were tarnished,And the shield of Saul as though he had not beenanointed with oil.” Samuel II 1:21“the modern Gilboa is a symbol today of peace and coexistence,”says Hagay. “It is so wonderful is to see thehuge number of Israeli Arabs who participate walkingalongside their Jewish fellow citizens - totally relaxed -as if a fact of nature.” The Yezreel Valley has proved tobe the most peaceful area in Israel. “Not one stone wasthrown in this area during the intifadas,” says BennySegal, who praises, “my boss”, Danny Atar, the Chairmanof the Gilboa Regional Council, “Who has made it apillar of his policy of fostering good inter-communitySpring-Summer 201231

Naturerelations. And it has paid off handsomely.” Last year,says Hagay, “together with the Regional Council, weinvited the Palestinian Authority for an event in theGilboa. It was a great success for future co-operation.Our motto is - Let’s walk together and work together.”End Of The TrailThe Gilboa Big Walk ends at the Spring of Harod whichflows from Gideon’s Cave. This is the place whereGideon gathered his men before fighting the Midianites.Judges 7:1 describes how, “Gideon, and all the peopleCharles Wingate, a British intelligence officer who wassympathetic to the Jewish people fighting for a nationalhomeland.Wingate organized special night brigades composed oflocal Jewish settlers, who operated from his headquartersat Kibbutz Ein Harod.Soaked in history, and sweating with perspiration,thousands of walkers from all over Israel and abroadmake their way to the green lawns of Ma’ayan Harod.The atmosphere is one of a carnival with music anddancing and the smell of barbeques.Many of the young participants were wearing theIsrael Sport for All AssociationFamily Affair. Walking the Gilboa attracts whole families from grandchildren to grandparents.that were with him, rose up early, and pitched besidethe well of Harod, so that most of the Midianites wereon the north side of them, by the hill of Moreh, in thevalley.” It was here that Gideon administered the ‘watertest’ (see box) as a way of choosing the warriors for thecoming battle (Judges 7:4-7).Today it is a nature reserve with the second largest poolin Israel, sprawling lawns, a picnic area, shaded bytowering eucalyptus trees. Aside from Gideon’s Cave,visitors can view the remains of an ancient aqueduct,a memorial to soldiers who died fighting on Mt. Gilboaand the home of Yehoshua Hankin, the “Redeemer ofthe Valley” (see box) which is today a museum and alookout to the valley. The tombs of Hankin and his wifeOlga are located here as well.The Harod Spring also served as one the first trainingbases for the Palmach (special strike force) under Ordeuniforms of their youth movements. The writer hadheard them earlier, singing inspiring songs from theirmovement as they descended the serpentine pathsdown the Gilboa. Following the arrival of the lastwalkers crossing the finish line and collecting theirmedals and certificates, Hagay Herzel takes to the stageand welcomes everyone. Clearly he is so proud that thisannual event has emerged so popular attracting eachyear more and more overseas visitors.For visitors to Israel who enjoy natural beauty coupledwith a hunger not only for local cuisine but local history– from ancient to the present - why not set aside a dayand ‘Take a hike’.You will not regret it.For information about walking tours and sights contact Ma’ayanHarod information center 3639 from inside Israel or emailmoked@npa.org.ilSpring-Summer 201232

ZionismBy David E. KaplanMeet Herzl OnMount HerzlThe issues of the past are as freshtoday as they may be tomorrowHerzl Center, JerusalemFinally at Rest. “I gave my heart’s blood for my people”, saidHerzl the day before he died of heart failure.A visit to most museums is usually a journey into the past.Not so with the Herzl Center, an experiential museum forZionist education on Mt. Herzl in Jerusalem. “The fundamentalmessage of this museum concerns no less the future than thepast,” explains Dr. David Breakstone, Vice Chairman of theWorld Zionist Organization (WZO) who headed the steeringcommittee that originally established the museum as well asits driving force in steering this evolving education center innew directions today.Opened in 2005, the museum attracts over 100,000visitors a year, many of them school children andarmy conscripts, who attend seminars and workshops.“It is not only the facts of the past that are importantbut the values underlying Herzl’s vision that need tobe grappled with, particularly by those in leadershippositions and future generations,” explains Breakstone.“We present Herzl not only as a towering historicalpersonality that contributed so much to the Zionistenterprise over a century ago,” explains Breakstone,“but also as a visionary whose ideas on Zionism are noless compelling, engaging and challenging today. Whilevisitors will leave the museum proud of what has beenachieved, one realizes there is still much work that stillneeds to be accomplished.”Zionism is an unfinished journey; a long way still to goSpring-Summer 201234Caricature of Herzl. Learning how to sketch the great Zionistpersonalities.for Israel to emerge as “a light unto the nations.”For Herzl, Zionism was never only about “the yearningfor a parcel of promised land legally acquired for ourweary people,” he wrote, “but also the yearning forethical and spiritual fulfillment.” These are the veryissues that are firmly addressed on a tour of the museum.During the tour, the visitor accompanies Theodor Herzlalong the major milestones of his life, accompanied by aconstant dialogue with the world then, and as it is today.Audio-visual screens present pictures from Herzl’s life,interwoven with documents and original photos.“Herzl loved the theatre and of course writing,” explainsShlomit Sattler, Coordinator of Overseas Groups,Culture and Special Events. “The museum honors thesepursuits,” continues Sattler, “by using theater to tell hispersonal story, present his vision, reflect on his values,

Herzl Center, JerusalemSpring-Summer 201235Meet Jabo. Join a walking tour of Mt. Herzl and you will meet- or if you prefer argue - with one of the finest orators of the20th century, Revisionist Zionist leader Ze’ev ‘Jabo’ Jabotinsky.

Zionismexplore his legacy and ponder Israel’s future.” A tour ofthe museum is more intellectual than physical; no lesscerebral than visual.Beyond Beard & BalconyA movie is shown throughout the tour which beginswith a noted Israeli director casting a promising youngactor, to play the part of Herzl. The actor is brash andarrogant - ‘a know-it-all’ - who admits however toknowing nothing about Herzl. “What’s the big deal, hethinks. “What more do I need to play Herzl other than abeard and a balcony!”The director makes it clear that if he wants to fill Herzl’sshoes, he needs to dig deep into the character; not to besatisfied with “beard and balcony” superficiality.During the film we jointhe actor on his journey.Slowly he is exposedto Herzl’s world, to thesocial milieu of his era, hisinnermost feelings, the forceof his principles and thedetermination with whichhe acted. We, along withthe actor, gain an intimateview of the visionary ofthe Jewish state, and areprivy to the fascinatingdialogue between “the realHerzl” from the past and the“fictional Herzl” of today.As if in a time machine, weare transported back to abygone era where settingschange from the cafes ofVienna to the anti-Semitic unruly mobs in the streetsof Paris at the time of the Dreyfus trial. We participatein the drama of the first Zionist Congress convened byHerzl in 1897, sitting as a delegate in a replica of the hallin the Casino Hotel in Zurich.We follow Herzl and listen in on his negations with theTurkish Sultan in Constantinople, Lord Chamberlain inLondon and the German Kaiser during both their visitsto Palestine. Visitors feel Herzl’s frustrations and admirehis perseverance as they join him in his study while hereflects on the unfolding saga of a national homeland inthe making.With the benefit of hindsight, we partake in the raucousdebate over the ‘Uganda Proposal’ that Herzl broughtbefore the 6th Zionist Congress and suffer his anguishas his health declines under the strain of his exhaustiveefforts against all odds.As the curtain draws to a close we confront the realitiesof Israel today against the backdrop of Herzl’s vision.Spring-Summer 201236Mount’ing Issues“After visiting the Museum, we want people at stay onthe mountain,” says Sattler. One of the many excitingprojects for children is a walking tour of Mt. Herzl.Actors take the part of famous personalities such asDavid Wolffson, Golda Meir, Ze’ev Jabotinsky, HanahShenesh and David Ben Gurion - many of whom areburied on Mt. Herzl - and who “make the cemeterycome alive,” says Breakstone. The past fuses with thepresent, and “Zionism is placed squarely on the table asa viable, living and evolving philosophy.”Educational as well as entertaining are the ‘ZionistComics’ workshops, “where children learn about thevarious Zionist leaders by learning how to draw themin caricature. “I have to tell you,” says Sattler, “WhileIt’s All An Act. On the walking tour you meet a coach teaching an Israeli athlete before she representsand Golda Meir in her kitchen where she is baking while at the same time speaking about the future ofprimarily for kids, their parents love this workshop.”Families leave with more than physical drawings butinsights into the personalities they have drawn. Inexpressing themselves artistically, they are free toliterally and figuratively draw their own conclusions.The Writing Is On The WallBreakstone is most excited by the soon to open ‘SmartWall’ – an interactive exploration wall, which comprisesseveral large screens – “A bit like a giant iPad” – whereparticipants are able to follow up on issues raised in themuseum but at their own pace.All the issues are what Herzl himself raised in his writingsand which the partipant can then engage in relation towhat is happening today?Breakstone presents an example:“Published in 1902, Herzl in his utopian novel Altneuland(Old New Land) describes a shabbat (Sabbath) in anHerzl Center, Jerusalem

imaginary Israel set in 1923, where he envisages howthe shops are all closed, cars come to a halt and peoplewending their way through the Old City to a varietyof different synagogues. Using this as a backdrop,participants, after viewing five short video interviews ofIsraelis today - from orthodox Haredi, through the variousstreams of judaisnm to the totally secular unobservant – areasked whether they agree or disagree with the alternatediverse presentations. In this way, people interact withthe wall that helps them personally determine the destinyof the Israel of tomorrow. So whether it’s the Shabbat,environment, socio-economic issues, the peace processand Jewish-Arab relations - all issues that Herzl appliedhis mind to over a century before - people are free torelate to them in today’s context and envision as Herzldid, what an Israel will be like in the future.”Israel at the 2012 Olympics all about Israel’s founding fathers (left),the Jewish State.Last Curtain CallAs the curtain drew to a close of what the writer felt wasquite a theatrical tour, I recalled an interesting aside fromDr. Moti Freedman, the Herzl Museum’s first curator thatHerzl at one time resided in the same street at SigmundFreud. There is no evidence that they ever met, but itdoes raise an interesting question:What would the renowned psychoanalyst havediagnosed of his equally illustrious neighbor, beset bydreams and visions?“A Jewish state! Is he crazy?”Within fifty years, Herzl’s ‘fantasy was a reality.In the visionary’s words:“If you will it, it shall not remain a dream.”The museum is located at theentrance of Mt. Herzl, Herzl Blvd.www.herzl.org.il, tel. 02-632-1515Spring-Summer 201237

Janpietruszka, Dreamstime.com3Get a Loaf of This. How better to start the day!Spring-Summer 201239

FoodBrauner Teddy, The National Photo CollectionFamine in the Fifties. Loaves of bread being prepared in aJerusalem bakery for the city’s hungry population.With the increase in the local Jewish population, theBerman family moved to Mea Shearim, building a houseand bakery side by side. Not only was it the largestbakery in Palestine but also in the entire Middle East. Itwas no wonder that it was a major tourist attraction atthe time.No loafing aboutWith the siege of Jerusalem in 1948, flour and gasolinerationing led to shortages and even starvation.Due to its proximity to the Jordanian border, andsince it was the main supply source for the besiegedpopulation, the bakery became the target of numerousbombing attempts. Despite this, the bakery never ceasedproduction, and the residents of Jerusalem received adaily supply of bread.Today Berman’s Bakery is located in the growing andthriving commercial center of Gival Shaul, and when in2001 it acquired Vadash Bakery in Ramat Hasharon andthe Lechem HaAretz Bakery, a bakery specializing inhealth bread and special cookies, it became the secondlargest bakery in the country, producing 3000 freshloaves every hour, much of which is transported acrossthe country in over sixty trucks – a far cry from themules and horses over 100 years ago.‘Anchored’ in history, it all began with a vision from awindow in the Old City!Well-BreadModern Israelis of all religious and ethnic backgroundlove bread, and eat a large variety of it. This is nevermore evident than on Friday mornings when Israelis,irrespective of their degree in religiosity, cram intobakeries selecting their different size and shape of theirSabbath bread, known as Challah. Made with eggs,this Jewish Sabbath‐and‐holiday bread is immersed infolklore and tradition and is loaded with symbolism asmuch as it is with ingredients. On festive occasions ablessing is said over two loaves, symbolizing the twoportions of the manna that was distributed on Fridaysto the children of Israel during their Exodus from Egypt.The breads are covered on the table by a decorativechallah cover, representing the dew that collected onthe manna in the morning. Poppy and sesame seedssprinkled on the bread also symbolize the manna thatfell from heaven.Challah is made in various sizes and shapes, all of whichhave a meaning. Braided ones, which may have three,four, or six strands, are the most common, and becausethey look like arms intertwined, symbolize love. Threebraids symbolize truth, peace, and justice. Twelve humpsfrom two small or one large braided bread, recalls themiracle of the twelve loaves for the twelve tribes ofIsrael. Round loaves, “where there is no beginning andno end,” are baked for Rosh Hashanah to symbolizecontinuity, while ladder shaped ones served at the mealBerman’s Bounty. Workers placing challot - the traditionalShabbat (Sabbath) bread - into a baking oven in the early1980s at Berman’s Bakery in Jerusalem.Rimon baruch, The National Photo CollectionSpring-Summer 201240

FoodBit of a Grind. Shomron boutique bakery owner, Les Saidel, scooping outorganic whole wheat grains to drop into a wheat grinder.Picnic Basket. All that’s waiting are the olives, cheeseand wine.before the fast of Yom Kippur, reminds Jews that Goddecides who will ascend and descend the ladder of life.Sweet challahs with honey or raisins are baked duringthe festive season to bring joy and happiness.The Sabbath and festival breads of the Yemenite Jewshave become popular in Israel and can be bought frozenin supermarkets. Jachnun is thinly rolled dough, brushedwith oil and baked overnight at a low heat. It is traditionallyserved with a crushed tomato dip, hard boiled eggs andskhug (Middle East hot sauce). Malawach is a thin circleof dough toasted in a frying pan, while Kubaneh is ayeast dough baked overnight and traditionally served onShabbat mornings. Lahoh is spongy, pancake-like breadmade of fermented flour and water and fried in a pan.Jews from Ethiopia make a similar yeast-risen flatbreadcalled Injera from millet flour.And of course, the most common bread is Pita, createdby steam, which puffs up the dough. In both Israeli andPalestinian cuisine, it is the custom to eat almost anythingwith pita, from falafel, lamb or chicken shwarma, kebab,omelets, shakshouka (eggs and tomatoes) and mostcommon, hummus and salads.Revisiting the pastAway from the giants of bread manufactures in Israel, area number of boutique bakeries who pride themselvesin baking mainly health breads. One such is SaidelsBakery located in the Samarian country village of GinotShomron. Nestled in the shade of weeping willows, withthe tranquil trickle of a babbling brook to delight thesenses, this family bakery is run by husband and wifeteam, Les and Sheryl Saidel and grandmother PhyllisSaidel. Modeled on the time-honored family “villagebakery”, Saidels is a far cry from the high volume,industrialized operations of modern bakeries.Les, a student of world renowned pastry chef Michel Suas(San Francisco Baking Institute) and “an artisan breadbaker” with 30 years of baking experience, laments that“our global health is declining and the food we put inour mouths has a lot to do with it.” He refers back toan age where there “were no major bakery chains andno E-something chemical list. Bread was baked in alocal village by the baker from scratch.” Furthermorehe continues, “The mills of the time could not grind theflour too fine so it retained all the components of thewheat grain, including the wheat germ. This was realbread.” All this Saidels proudly emulates. “We mill thewhole wheat flour ourselves and use it immediately inthe bread dough so no refrigeration of wheat germ isnecessary and the wheat germ has no time to go rancid.”As Saidels bake their bread and sell it fresh out of theoven, there is no need for “stabilizers, preservatives anddough enhancers. We are artisan bakers and when wesay 100% whole wheat that is exactly what it is – directfrom nature, organically grown and no tampering.”Their masonry oven was was built by Les himselfaccording to strict guidelines and is one of only twosuch ovens in the entire Middle East. Constructed withcentury old bricks imported from Belgium and with itsShakespearean Tudor facade, “our oven is not only thetool of our trade, it is a wonder to behold and attractstourists and baking enthusiasts from all over the country.”Les says he finds it enriching watching “the flames lickSpring-Summer 201242

the brick interior of our oven, in the knowledge that ourancestors baked this way and that we are continuingtheir fine tradition”Start the day,the Israeli wayThis means enjoying a hearty, healthy breakfast andat the Inbal, this includes enjoying all their homemadebreads. “Yes, we bake it all - including the pitot, rolls andbaguettes, offering white, brown and whole-wheat aswell as gluten-free,” says Executive Chef Moti Buchbut.“With our gluten free bread, which I bake using alternateflours to wheat - rice, Tapioca and cornflower - youwill not taste the difference from the regular bread.” Itis no surprise that “our Israeli breakfast is so popularwith overseas visitors who are not only looking fora substantial way to begin the day but a healthy oneand our breads are an important part of this culinaryexperience.”In the sixties, ‘bread’ was hippy slang for ‘money’. Asfood, the doughy stuff has long been considered “thestaff of life” and in Isaiah 55:10 we read:“For as the rain cometh down, and the snow fromheaven, and returneth not thither, but watereth theearth, and maketh it bring forth and bud, that it maygive seed to the sower, and bread to the eater.”Bon Appétit.Herb & OlivebreadBy Chef Moti BuchbutExecutive Chef ofthe Inbal Jerusalem HotelIngredients1 ½ tablespoons of dry yeast2/3 cup of warm water2½ cups of warmer water, notboiling (warmer than lukewarm)3 ½ cups of white flour3 ¼ cups of whole grain flour2 ½ tablespoons of olive oil3 even tablespoons of sugar3 tablespoons of finely choppedfresh chives or 2 tablespoons ofdried chives1 ¼ teaspoons of dry oregano1 ¼ teaspoons of dry thyme2 ¼ teaspoons of salt2/3 cup of chopped or sliced in ringsof black pitted olivesPreparationMix the yeast in 2/3 cup of warmwater.Stir the mixture from time to timeand let it ferment for a few minutes.Mix in a bowl: white flour, oil, sugar,chives, oregano, thyme & salt.Pour the 2 ½ cups of warm waterinto the bowl.Mix with an electric mixer on lowspeed until the mixture is smooth.Add the melted yeast and keepEd Isaacs, Dreamstime.comstirring on low speed and graduallyincrease the speed of the wholemixture for approximately 4 minutes.After 4 minutes, pour the whole grainflour and chopped olives into thebowl.Fold the dough with a wooden spoonIt is normal for the dough to be alittle sticky and wetOil the sides of a bowl, pour thedough, brush it with a little oil onthe top so that it is enveloped andcover it with saran wrap. Place in awarm place until the dough rises toapproximately twice its size.Oil your hands well and divide thedough in two (it is sticky, but the oil helps)drizzle a few drops of olive oil on topof each loaf. Spread with your fingers.Level the dough to one surface.Spread on each loaf about a spoon ofwhite or whole grain flour to coverthe top surface.Cover each baking pan with saranwrap and leave to rise again for about45 minutes – 1 ½ hours (depends onthe room temp).Unwrap and let the leaven rise afew centimeters over the pan edges(about ¼ hour).Bake in the oven until the loaveshave a crispy tanned surface (about½ hour).Take out carefully from the oven.Pass a knife around the side walls ofthe pan to release the loaf. Carefullytake out.Spring-Summer 201243

In at the InbalStrengthening BondsHaim ZachHand in Hand. Seen celebrating at the Inbal at a cocktail party for the CanadianForeign Minister, John Baird (third from the left), is the event’s host, David Koschitzky,chairman of the Canadian center for Israel and Jewish affairs, Danny Ayalon, IsraeliDeputy Foreign Minister, Yuval Steinitz, Israeli Minister of Finance, Benny Begin, amember of the Knesset, Uzi Landau, Israeli Minister of National Infrastructure andPaul Hunt, Canadian Ambassador to Israel.Haim ZachForeign Minister feels at Home. John Baird,Canadian FM (above) seen here with SandraHaziza, the Inbal’s Guest’s Relations Manager(left) and (right) with Ilan Brenner, the Inbal’sEAM Sales and Marketing Manager.Haim ZachHaim ZachStriking the Right Cord. Magnificent harprecital resonates at this special eventcelebrating friendship and shared values.Spring-Summer 201244

To Israel With LoveHaim ZachHaim ZachHaim ZachUnconditional Love.Israeli Prime Minister,Benjamin (Bibi)Netanyahu (left) spoke ofthe immense appreciationIsrael feels for AmericanChristian supportHaim ZachLed by Pastor John Hagee, a delegation of his ministriesrecently visited Israel, a country whom they love andsupport unreservedly. Staying at the Inbal, one of themany reasons they support Israel is that “while all othernations were created by an act of men, Israel alone wascreated by an act of God!”The Pastor & the PM. John Hagee and Bibi share theplatform.Music to their Ears. An enthralled audience enjoysinspiring speeches and uplifting music.Stirring Stuff. Internationally acclaimed Israel cantorand stage performer Dudu Fisher wowed a packedhouse at the Inbal Ball room.Spring-Summer 201245

In at the InbalStar-struck in JerusalemThe stars of “Heroes”, “Melrose Place”,“Shameless” and “One Tree Hill”, spenta week at the Inbal Hotel, as part of theiraction-packed journey across Israel, whichwas sponsored by America’s Voices in Israel,El Al and the Israel Ministry of Information &Diaspora. Rabbi Irwin Katsof, the ExecutiveDirector of America’s Voices in Israel,escorted the stars to many of Israel’s mostinspiring historical, religious and culturalattractions.Star Gazing.Yuli Edelstein ,Israel’s Minister ofInformation andDiaspora (thirdfrom the left), onthe balcony of theExecutive Lounge with(l-r) Austin Nichols,Mary Lynn Rajskub,Greg Grunberg, JustinChatwin and ShaunCipos.Looking Cool. Justin Chadwick starof the hit TV series ‘Shameless’ (left)is seen here with Inbal’s GeneralManager, Bruno de Schuyter.Haim ZachHaim ZachHaim ZachImpressive. Engaging the media at a Press Conference at the Inbal are Justin Chatwin (“Shameless”), Mary Lynn Rajskub (“24”),Austin Nichols (“One Tree Hill”), Greg Grunberg (“Heroes”) and Shaun Sipos (“Melrose Place”). Said Nichols: “Many people arescared to come to this part of the world. It’s a fear based on ignorance. All of us are going to love telling our friends and familyabout our various experiences, including this hotel, where everyone took really good care of us.”Spring-Summer 201246

Proud to be PreferredIn February, the Inbal JerusalemHotel was welcomed into theinternationally renowned PreferredHotels & Resorts luxury collectionthat defines the benchmark of luxuryand service in the global hotelindustry.Leading the Pack. Mayor Nir Barkatwelcomes Bruno de Schuyter GeneralManager of Inbal, being the first hotel inIsrael to be welcomed into the PreferredHotels & Resorts luxury collection.Looking on is Saurabh Rai Bhatnagar,the Regional Director of South Asia andIlanit Melchior, Tourism Director in theJerusalem Municipality.Haim ZachHaim ZachShield of Excellence. Jerusalem Mayor Nir Barkat and the General Manager of Inbal, Bruno de Schuyter (thirdand second left), proudly hold together the ‘Preferred’ shield bestowed upon the Inbal, flanked from l-r BrijBhushan Chachra, Director of Revenue Account Management for India, Middle East & Africa, Inbal’s EAM Salesand Marketing Manager Ilan Brenner, Ananya Narayan, Senior Vice President of Global Strategy, Saurabh RaiBhatnagar, Regional Director of South Asia, Ilanit Melchior ,Tourism Director Jerusalem Municipality, JoseVentura, Vice President of Asia, Pacific, Middle East and Africa, Business Development.Spring-Summer 201247

In at the InbalPotpourriHaim ZachA Runaway Success. JerusalemMayor, Nir Barkat (third left)and Bruno de Schuyter GeneralManager of Inbal (secondleft) are seen welcoming tothe Inbal some of the overseasparticipants for Jerusalem’s 2ndInternational marathon.Of the over 15,000 runners whoran the spectacularly beautifulbut physically tough course,1,500 came from 50 differentcountries.From Cockpits to Cocktails. Inbal Executive Chef Moti Buchbut,and Bruno de Schuyter General Manager of the Inbal andMoshe Segev, El Al’s Head Chef at a special cocktail partyat the Inbal for El Al Sales representatives from around theworld.Haim ZachBroadcasting the Real Story From Israel. ‘America’s Voice in Israel’ brought out in March a delegation of the Executive Leadershipof the National Association of Evangelicals to Israel where they toured the country and met with politicians, business leaders aswell as those in the fields of religion, science and culture. Accompanied by some of their wives, seen here with Rabbi Irwin Katsof,the Executive Director of America’s Voices in Israel (third from the left) and Sandra Haziza, Inbal’s GRM (second from the right),are Leith Anderson, President of National Evangelical Association, George O. Wood, General Superintendent, Assemblies of God,Galen Carey, NAE Vice President, Lee Roy Taylor, Chairman of the NAE Board, Pastor John K. Jenkins, a Leading African AmericanPastor, Jim Tolle, a pastor of the largest evangelical Spanish-speaking congregations in the United States.Spring-Summer 201248

Haim Zach“Hello, I’m Sandra Haziza.”Big Hero, Big Screen. Award winning Directorand Producer Ari Daniel Pinchot was in Israelrecently for the premier screening of his newmovie “Follow-me”, a docu-drama on the life ofYoni Netanyahu, the late brother of Israel’s PrimeMinister who was killed leading the successfulIsraeli commando raid to free the hostages atEntebbe airport in 1976. Pinchot and his familyare seen here with Joanne Odes, Inbal’s Revenue &Reservations Manager.Meet the members of the Inbal family who are committed toproviding you, our valued guest, the personalized service youhave come to expect from an Inbal experience. Starting in thisissue, we begin by introducing Sandra Haziza, Inbal’s GuestRelations Manager.Sandra joined the Inbal as the Hotel’s GRM at the beginning of2012 having worked for 30 years in the tourist industry in bothIsrael and the USA. Having lived in France and Spain beforeshe was 18 - the age she immigrated to Israel - Sandra speaksEnglish, Spanish, French and Hebrew fluently and “fairly strongin Italian and Portuguese.” Her love affair with languages hashelped her no less than her guests. “I am able to communicatewith so many different people from so many different countriesand cultures – a huge plus in the tourist industry.”Her position as GRM involves “taking care of VIPs and the manyforeign delegations, which at the Inbal, we have throughout theyear.” From world leaders and foreign dignitaries to those inshowbiz, the Inbal attracts them all.Sandra has the experience.During her seven years as the Concierge at the Ritz Carlton inNew York - “a port-a-call for the TV and Hollywood crowd” -she met “The Seinfeld cast regularly, Rod Steward, Prince, SamSheppard and Denzel Washington, one of my favorite actors.”Subsequently, she worked as Chief Concierge at the King DavidHotel, Jerusalem followed by holding multiple positions at theDavid Citadel Hotel, Jerusalem. It was here that she recallsher most memorable meeting with Romanian-born Jewish-American writer, Nobel Laureate, and Holocaust survivor ElieWiesel. “We spoke in French, nothing about the hotel. It wasa philosophical conversation about life and the art of beinghappy. We ended by him promising to send me his latest book.Two weeks later, after Rosh Hashana, it arrived with a personalinscription wishing me good luck for the future and to continuebeing happy.”We too wish Sandra “good Luck” as one the newest memberwho is so “happy” to be part of the Inbal team.She looks forward to meeting you and wishing you a happy stayin Israel and the Inbal.Spring-Summer 201249

In at the InbalA Sneak PeakNew lighting illuminating the exquisite architecture.Future balconies on some of the rooms facing the Old City.The ‘New’ InbalJerusalem Hotel!The Inbal Jerusalem Hotel hasembarked on an exciting, multimilliondollar facelift that will not onlyupgrade the service to our discerningclientele, but will also transform thebuilding into an architectural marvelthat enhances the vision of famedIsraeli architect Ya’akov Rechter, whodesigned the original structure back inthe 1970’s, then known as the LarommeHotel.Spearheading this new exciting project,architect Michael Schwartz is relishingthe challenged of conceptually fusingRechter’s original design with theaesthetic and contemporary vision ofthe Inbal Hotel’s owners, while retainingthe building’s inherent sensitivity toJerusalem’s unique ambience.A renowned architect in the luxuryhotel industry, Schwartz is particularlyexcited by his new commission becauseof his long-term “love affair” with theInbal hotel, seduced by “its specialfamilial atmosphere.”Raising the bar, guests can look forwardto a range of superlative benefits fromthe renovated property. Once therenovations are complete, we will bein the best position to offer our valuedguests that perfect blend of luxury,comfort, and personalized service thatsets the Inbal Hotel apart from all otherhotels in Jerusalem.Thrilled by all these excitingdevelopments, we have decided toprovide our constantly growing loyalclientele, a tantalizing sneak peek ofthe activities as seen through the eyesof Michael Schwartz.Vision of the new courtyard.Spring-Summer 201250