View As PDF - Wine Country This Week

WINE COUNTRY THIS WEEK | WINE COUNTRY NEWSWinemaker Profile: Rutherford Hill WineryMARISA TAYLOR HUFFAKERby Diana GreenwoodRutherford Hill Winery is affectionatelycalled the “king” of Merlot but there’s a“queen” behind the scenes working withthose lush, purple-black grapes. WinemakerMarisa Taylor Huffaker tips her crown toMerlot, the fruit grown in the regionsurrounding the winery, grapes bursting withflavor from vines nurtured by deep volcanicsoil and afternoon sun that lingers on the hill.Marisa knows the varietal well. About 75% ofproduction at Rutherford Hill is aimed atMerlot, a wine that is dense and voluptuouson the nose, and the aromas in the cellarremind Marisa of childhood dinners whereMerlot sparkled in crystal glasses when familymembers gathered.Marisa Taylor Huffaker grew up runningthrough the vineyards of Santa Rosa inSonoma County. Her godfather was a vineyardmanager and Marisa visited often,trailing along, pruning, picking, tasting thegrapes, and marveling at the process fromvine to the glass. “Wine was a part of the dailytable landscape at dinner,” said Marisa.“Growing up in wine country, it was thenorm. It was only later when I was searchingfor a career that I realized how familiar andmemory-invoking the aroma of a winery wasto me. It was like coming home.”Marisa enrolled in Santa Rosa JuniorCollege and by the age of 25 was making herown wine, using Pinot Noir from Carneros.She graduated from the University of California,Davis, first with a B.S. in Chemistryand then an M.S. in Food Science/Enology.With her two degrees, Marisa had the solidfoundation needed to excel at top quality,artisan winemaking. A self-described “labrat,” Marisa has a passion for the analyticaldetail needed for monitoring yeast cultures,barrels, fermentation, blending and ultimately,bottling.After honing her skills in the lab at PiperSonoma and J Winery, Marisa became anenologist at S. Anderson Vineyard inwww.WineCountryThisWeek.comYountville, where she learned to makeCabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and sparklingwine. Her natural curiosity led Marisa towork abroad for the harvest of 1999 at theColognole Winery in Rufina, Italy, where sheimmersed herself in winemaking and learnedto vinify Sangiovese. In Italy, Marisa spokesome Italian in order to share her passion forwine and learned the importance of communicationfrom vineyard to cellar to bottle,something she stresses today at RutherfordHill.Although Rutherford Hill Winery isprimarily a red wine house, Marisa burstswith enthusiasm when talking aboutChardonnay, especially as sultry summer daysapproach and people fire up the grills. “OurChardonnay is a wine to love,” she said. “It’scrisp and fruit forward with just the rightamount of spice and richness from the barrelfermentation. The barrel influence supportsthe bright fruit of the Chardonnay.”Another warm weather wine to love is the2009 Sauvignon Blanc, which will be availableJune 1st. In the past this wine wasoffered only at the winery, but this year asmall bottling of 800 cases will be released fordistribution. Marisa says the Sauvignon Blancis “bright, crisp fruit with aromatics of lime,melon and orange blossom, the perfectaccompaniment to summer.”Marisa is one of the busiest winemakers inthe Napa Valley in one of the prettiest locations.The unpretentious winery perches atthe peak of Rutherford Hill Road, just offSilverado Trail, where the view from the oakstuddedpicnic grove extends as far as the eyecan see and glorious colors in the valley arethe backdrop to the wine in your glass. Nowonder, then, that a few months ago thewinery was selected by Bravo to host itsEmmy and James Beard Award-winning TopChef Season Six finale shows. After 12episodes filmed in Las Vegas, the show’sexciting conclusion shifted to California winecountry where the final four “chef’testants”faced off in a series of challenges that decidedthe next new Top Chef. Marisa had an opportunityto work with the film crew, setting upwine tasting in the mile-long wine caves andshe attended the “Harvest Party Challenge.”A new brand called Quickfire stemmedfrom the partnership with the No. 1 foodshow on cable TV and Marisa, along withRutherford Hill Winery owner, AnthonyTerlato, now crafts two elegant and balancedwines under the label. Named for the show’sexciting Quickfire Challenge, where “chef’testants”compete in fast-paced culinary trials,Quickfire Chardonnay and QuickfireCabernet Sauvignon take on the ultimatechallenge – to offer versatility that complementsa wide range of food styles.When Marisa has a few moments of downtime she loves to spend time gardening orplaying with her year-old son at her home inSonoma County. She enjoys quilting and likewinemaking, the meticulous detail andcombination of method with art suits herpersonality.Marisa Taylor Huffaker, the “queen”behind the scenes, and the wines of RutherfordHill will fill you with joy when you visit.Located at 200 Rutherford Hill Road, tastingis available daily from 10-5. For additionalinformation visit the web at www.rutherfordhill.comor call (707) 963-1871.27