HOW WE SLEEP UP THERESoundly. A day of wall climbing is a greatinsomnia cure. Of course the climber’s harnessstays on all night, and he remains connected tothe anchor by a loose section of rope. Rolling outof the rigid portaledge would be more difficultthan rolling out of a hammock; gravity tends tokeep the occupant(s) in the center of the bed. Yes,sleepwalking would be a dangerous tendency upthere–as dozens of people have reminded <strong>me</strong>.HOW WE DON’ T BATHE UP THEREPre-moistened towelettes are the definitivehygiene solution. Bathing does happen on thewalls, but only by a select group of highlyadapted mutants—or a party that climbed muchfaster than expected.PITCH 26pitons I over-drove in fear. Weasel got torelax in the belay seat most of the daywhile I milked the leads. I got a cheerfulperson to converse with. She got agrouchy drill sergeant to gently remindher how to keep her technique in top form.We climbed no more than ten hoursper day—in June, when the light gracesthe Sierra for 17 hours a day. We typicallyset up the portaledge by 6pm, and didn’t shove off the nextmorning until nine or ten. We sat, flaccid and motionless forhours in the silent wake of that gigantic stone, blissfullyconjoined. We partied with the swallows, the bats,peregrine falcons, frogs, crows, hummingbirds, bees, andwe thanked them for having us. We gorged on hideous<strong>can</strong>ned pasta, Trader Joe’s products and the most expensivePowerAde in California, courtesy of the Village Store(damn the oso that punctured half our water bottles...). Wegawked at the evolving topography around us—massive,bizarre feature upon feature framing our vertical horizon,neighboring formations eventually submitting to our superiorposition. We ingested the intoxicating elixir of simpleexistence—life cleansed of earthly frivolity, duty and ofother human life. We answered only to the sun, the windAND OF COURSE, HOW WEPOO UP THEREIn earlier ti<strong>me</strong>s, climbers “went” into paper<strong>bag</strong>s which were chucked off the cliff andretrieved later. Increased wall traffic—andenviron<strong>me</strong>ntal awareness—has now mandatedpack-everything-out protocol. The generallyacceptedstandard today is to insert the usedpaper <strong>bag</strong>s into a storage device constructedfrom plastic plumbing pipe.
and the circuitous weaknessushering us upward.By belay 26, fifteen daysout, we were in completethroes of the Zone. Our mindsand bodies had nudgedcloser to that of the consummatewall dweller, and asYvon Chouinard had saidabout the route’s first ascent,nothing was strange aboutour vertical world. We triednot to ponder the new lifeawaiting us on that aliensurface people called “the ground”, for we knew that thesinister plane would eventually lead to us footprints,blacktop, voicemail and social integration. On a belaystance the size of a short surfboard, I inventoried oursupplies and confir<strong>me</strong>d we had a surplus. We gouged onour brakes like a dog heading for the vet; it was ti<strong>me</strong> fora full day off.This is the end, my only friendI always get a senti<strong>me</strong>ntal feeling near the end of alengthy climb. After the stint of ti<strong>me</strong> I usually spend on abig one, the route seems like an old friend. And wholikes goodbyes? No matter how near the top I get, I wantjust one more bivouac. One more night to stir in my bed,seemingly at ho<strong>me</strong>, only to realize in a sudden rush thatthe ground is thousands of feet below <strong>me</strong>. One moremorning to awakenassured that my life, nowmy wife’s life too, will belived fully that day. Tosecure anothercomponent of what we<strong>can</strong> happily look back on,in agree<strong>me</strong>nt that we didthe right thing.The East Ledgesdescent should be apretty good buddy of mineby now, too. Just for funI still get a tiny bit lostevery ti<strong>me</strong> (hey, go easywith those cairns, people).I wouldn’t have consideredsaddling my preciousWAY FINDINGAs expansive as the face of El Cap is, it’s notexactly wilderness. Published guide books havedocu<strong>me</strong>nted almost every El Cap climbing route.Over ti<strong>me</strong>, new routes are added and existingroutes evolve due to repetitive ascent traffic andnatural exfoliation—pieces of the formation falloff with notable regularly. Climbing guide bookauthors’ work is never truly complete, but workin-progress.As one might guess, producing anup-to-date, comprehensive guide book for a bigwall <strong>me</strong>cca like Yosemite is a formidableundertaking.HeartLedgesrappels100' 75.10or C14.5ropes togroundmany .6-3"5.10d or C15.13aor C2belay hereif using50m ropes68110'9100'5.11or C1110' 5120' 45.10aor C1many .6-3"many.6-3"1 and 2 linkwith 60m rope.4-1.5"10135' 3belay here if using50m ropes190' 115.8.6-2"Heart Ledges5.12b or C1+many .6-3"Magic Mushroom.5-2"5.12Rmany or C2.5-4.5"5.11b or C1many.5-3".6-3.5"5.11c or C15.9 or C15.9 or C11.6-2"MammothTerraces2155'bivy 4+Magic Mushroom5.12b or C1great ledge140' 13.5-3"C1 or 5.12bnuts1412 190'move haul<strong>bag</strong>s hereGray LedgesOK bivy for 2.5-2"link 14 & 15w/ 60m rope135.8.5-1"good ledge100'C2 or 5.12+15 100'5.13 or C2C1 or 5.11c5.45.8 flareor C2++5.11d or C1TurningPointroute goes ham<strong>me</strong>rlessat C2 until Pitch 235.10 squeezeor C1+C11' x 3'ledge160' 17belay takes.6-2"ho lowShieldcamhooks.5-4.5"p16 110'130' 23C122 165'many .6-2",especia ly 1"21 110'5.12 or C11-4.5"many.5-2".4-1.5"belaytakes .6-1"60' 185.9 or C1few .5- 1.5"5.13 var.130' 24A1 or C3C2 manysma l nutsA2 or C3 (1st crux)The Shaft(free var.)pendulum right toarrows and thin nutsbelay takes.75-2"The Shaft (free var.)70' 26120' 191' x 4' ledge5.11bor C1.5-3"thin nutsreachTriple Direct2' x 10' ledgeOK bivy for 2C4F or A2(2nd crux).4-2" The Shaftfrom belay move (free var.)left out bulge5.6.5-3"belay takes2-3.5".4-1.5"31 110'25 120'5.7friction/tensiontraverseC2shuttle gear,don't haulpPITCH 26A2 loosefind tree orsling rock hornfor last anchorC23rdC3+ or A2(3rd crux)80' 29few cams.4-.75"150' 2830many .5- 1.5",many nuts C2pC4 or A2' 3332 90'90'belaytakes .6-2.5"arrows, angles.5-1.5"belaytakes.5-1.5"belaytakes 1-4"leave <strong>bag</strong>sat and haulfrom rim30© SUPERTOPO.COMA Moby Dick,Center is thebetter start5.9+squeezeA5.9.75-3"110' 204.5" move5.10 orC1 move100' 275.10C1195.7many.5-2"