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Music of the Waswahili of Lamu, Kenya

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The lamu waterfront, a zeJe procession underwayopposite coast <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island and rests near <strong>the</strong> mouth<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> lamu bay.lamu has never been an isolated community. Althoughit is not easily reached by land even today, it has alwaysbeen accessible by sea, ei<strong>the</strong>r from <strong>the</strong> north or <strong>the</strong>south, depending on which way <strong>the</strong> monsoon winds areblowing. The town has a rich history <strong>of</strong> conflict andalliance with neighboring towns, especially Pate.The Pate Chronicle, an indigenous description <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>traditions and events in <strong>the</strong> history <strong>of</strong> Pate, which wasreduced to writing at <strong>the</strong> turn <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> twentieth century,is full <strong>of</strong> references to political, economic and religiousdisputes with <strong>the</strong> inhabitants <strong>of</strong> lamu (Werner:1915).lamu's history, <strong>the</strong>n, indicates a pattern in which <strong>the</strong>town sought both religious and commercial independencefrom its neighbors, but was never able t<strong>of</strong>ully achieve ei<strong>the</strong>r. Today it is still a mixture <strong>of</strong> a desirefor independence and friendly relations with o<strong>the</strong>rpolitical bodies, so long as <strong>the</strong> interaction resultsin advantage to <strong>the</strong> leading families <strong>of</strong> lamu.Most residents <strong>of</strong> lamu today describe <strong>the</strong> townas divided into two halves-Mkomani to <strong>the</strong> north andLangoni to <strong>the</strong> south (see Map II). The nor<strong>the</strong>rn portionis characterized as <strong>the</strong> place <strong>of</strong> stone houses, whereold established families reside, while <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn issaid to be <strong>the</strong> place where wageni, i.e., visitors, livein mud-walled, thatched-ro<strong>of</strong> houses.Persons from old, established families are proneto emphaSize <strong>the</strong> names <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> two locations, to pointout wageni on <strong>the</strong> streets and to call attention towhere people live, whereas more recent settlers in<strong>the</strong> community pay less attention to <strong>the</strong> division.When <strong>the</strong>y speak <strong>of</strong> it at all, it is with a resentful tone<strong>of</strong> voice and a suggestion <strong>of</strong> defiance <strong>of</strong> an obsoletedistinction.Today, although <strong>the</strong> names <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> divisions <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>to\',ll1 are widely used and <strong>the</strong> social distinctions <strong>the</strong>yimply are !mown to nearly everyone living in lamu, <strong>the</strong>political structure that was once contained within <strong>the</strong>mhas been elaborated and modified. The existence <strong>of</strong>a modern, independent <strong>Kenya</strong> has brought a newdimension to lamu's political structure, which hasbeen partially assimilated into <strong>the</strong> old didemic arrangement,and which has partially changed to meet <strong>the</strong> neworder. A town council still exists, but instead <strong>of</strong> itsmembership consisting <strong>of</strong> leaders <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> dominantfamilies, <strong>the</strong> wangwana, <strong>the</strong> positions are held byelected representatives, some <strong>of</strong> whom represent <strong>the</strong>interest <strong>of</strong> recent immigrants to <strong>the</strong> town or <strong>of</strong> recentlyenfranchised servant classes. Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> prestigiouswazee, <strong>the</strong> leaders <strong>of</strong> important families, still exerciseinfluence upon <strong>the</strong> decision-making processes, but<strong>the</strong>y do so through behind-<strong>the</strong>-scenes pressure uponrelatives or allies from o<strong>the</strong>r families.The political organization <strong>of</strong> lamu is closely intertwinedwith <strong>the</strong> religiOUS organization, which exercisesgreat influence on every aspect <strong>of</strong> lamu society. "Islamhas an order <strong>of</strong> clergy but no priesthood" (Trimingham1962:37). The role <strong>of</strong> leadership in each local mosque3

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