16 17FROM GENOA TO MONEGLIA<strong>FAI</strong> GUIDES YOUAROUND SOME OF THEMAJOR TOURIST RESORTSON THE EASTERN RIVIERABOGLIASCORECCOCAMOGLIPORTOFINOSANTA MARGHERITARAPALLOLAVAGNABogliascoReccoCittà di Recco Medaglia d’Oro al Valore CivileCAMOGLIPORTOFINOBOGLIASCORECCOSANTA MARGHERITARAPALLOLAVAGNAMunicipality of BogliascoCulture OfficeTel. +39 010 3747222protocollo@comune.bogliasco.ge.itwww.comune.bogliasco.ge.itTHE TOWNThe nearest town east of Genoa, bound by<strong>Liguria</strong>'s last two remaining level-crossings,winds lazily for about a kilometre, clutchedtightly between the mountains and the sea,into which it drops, here in gently-slopingbeaches, there in mighty cliffs and rockyinlets that can be reached along old muletracks,to witness unforgettable sunsets andviews.This seafaring village, an amphitheatre ofcolourful houses, a stream, the Romanbridge, form an uplifting frame for visitorsseeking quality bakeries and restaurants, orone of the numerous sports facilities up onthe hill to play football or tennis.PLACES TO VISITThe CastleThis historic lookout tower against Saracenraids can be reached along the seafrontpromenade that starts from the broadsquare in front of the 18th century church,with its typical black and white mosaic of seapebbles.La BicoccaAn enchanting art deco style villa perchedhigh above the sea.CAMOGLIPORTOFINOBOGLIASCORECCOSANTA MARGHERITARAPALLOMunicipality of ReccoCulture OfficeTel. +39 0185 7291285cultura@comune.recco.ge.itwww.comune.recco.ge.itLAVAGNATHE TOWNLying on the banks of the stream that sharesits name, Recco stands as evidence of a veryancient history: a funerary urn testifies to itspagan origins; around 670 BC it was listedamongst the places crossed by the consularRoman road; around AD 1100 it becamepart of the Republic of Genoa, and between1943 and 1944 it was completely destroyedby 127 Allied bombings. In 1993, on the50th anniversary of the wartime devastation,the city received the Gold Medal for CivilMerit in memory of the victims.Nowadays, Recco has become a modernresidential town, proud of its cultural,religious and gastronomic traditions,conscious of the benefits that itsgeographical position, with access to the seaand to the Apennines, has always brought itin terms of tourism and trade.PLACES TO VISITSaint Roch's ChurchOriginally dedicated to Saint Terentian, it waschanged to Roch, the patron saint of pilgrimsat the time of the black plague in the 15thand 16th century. It now houses a permanentexhibition of nativity scenes, displaying 1,500different examples from all around the globe.FEASTS AND FESTIVALSRecco gastronomic eveningsRecco's cuisine has earned it the title ofGastronomic Capital of <strong>Liguria</strong>, which initself has become an attraction for tourists."Serate Gastronomiche Recchesi" [Reccogastronomic evenings] is a big event,supported by the Recco Gastronomicaconsortium, and involves the presentation ofsumptuous menus of typical <strong>Liguria</strong>n fare bythe seven best-known local restaurants: atriumph of taste, flavour and tradition, averitable hymn to the elevation of the localculinary culture.Fire festivalIn honour of the town's patron saint, OurLady of Suffrage, the festival (7-8September) is amongst the best-known inall of Italy, due to its grand scale: inSeptember each year, the sevenneighbourhoods of Recco throw down avirtual chall<strong>eng</strong>e to each other in the form ofa sparkling explosion of fireworks, with thehelp of Italy's greatest master fireworkmakers.
18 19CamogliCAMOGLIPORTOFINOMunicipality of CamogliCulture OfficeTel. 0185 72901camogli.cultura@libero.itwww.comune.camogli.ge.itBOGLIASCORECCOSANTA MARGHERITARAPALLOLAVAGNATHE TOWNSheltered to the east by the Portofinopromontory, surrounded by the green of theolive and maritime pine trees and by thedeep blue of the sea, the town of Camogli isone of <strong>Liguria</strong>'s main tourist resorts, quitecapable of holding its own alongside Italy'smajor coastal cities when it comes to history,culture and natural heritage. Touristactivities have gradually come to replacetraditional seafaring work, but theappearance of the historic town hasremained the same, clustered around theport, the parish church, the Dragone castleand the seafront promenade.Situated at the centre of the naturalamphitheatre formed by Monte di Portofino,at the end of the Golfo Paradiso, it issheltered from the cold north winds andfrom the humidity of the sirocco, and enjoysa mild climate, especially ideal for winterstays.HISTORYRecent archaeological digs in the area of the hillknown as “Castellaro” have uncoveredevidence of a human settlement here as farback as the 12th century BC. The name of thetown first appears as “Villa Camuli” in amedieval text dated to between 1018 and1045. Over the centuries, this typical maritimevillage followed the fortunes of the nearbyrepublic of Genoa. From the first half of theeighteenth century until the early years of the19th, the vessels of the people of Camoglitravelled the l<strong>eng</strong>th and breadth of theMediterranean sea and ventured out across theocean, earning the town the epithet “City of athousand white sailing ships”. The vast wealthgained from these voyages brought affluence tothe town, leading the authorities to undertakean architectural transformation of Camogli,giving it the appearance we still see today.Bearing witness to its seafaring tradition are theNautical Institute, the only home for retiredseamen in Italy, and the Maritime Museum.ENVIRONMENT AND NATURECamogli attracts considerable interest fromtourists, thanks to its natural beauty, andparticularly since both the PortofinoRegional Natural Park and the PortofinoProtected Marine Area extend into itsterritory, working for the conservation ofMediterranean biodiversity. There is anabundance of footpaths offering walkers avast choice of itineraries all over themountain area. The extraordinary beauty ofthe scenery to be found underwater is themain attraction for the thousands of diverswho come to these waters each year.ART AND CHURCHESCamogli has a number of religious buildings ofconsiderable importance: the Basilica of OurLady of the Assumption in Piazza Colombo,with its distinctive courtyard, laid using the“risseu” technique of white and grey stonescollected from the beach and skilfullyarranged to form images and geometricaldesigns; the Oratory of Saint Prosperus andSaint Catherine; the Olivetan BenedictineMonastery of Saint Prosperus; the Chapel ofSaint Ann; and the Sanctuary of Our Lady ofthe Woods, which houses a collection ofsailors' ex votos from the 16th and 17thcenturies. In the outlying hamlets, someparticularly old and beautiful places of worshipinclude the “Millenaria” church, theRomanesque church of St. Nicholas and theAbbey of St. Fruttuoso.FOODThose who appreciate good food will bespoilt for choice amongst the variousrestaurants with their authentic, traditionalcuisine. The main specialities are typical<strong>Liguria</strong>n dishes prepared with greatsimplicity using local produce: trofie,pansoti, fish dishes, stuffed dishes andvegetable pies. Snacklovers can enjoy atypical focaccia with its simple, naturalseasoning, or a tasty bite out in the warmsunshine.FEASTS AND TRADITIONSThe most famous traditional feast in Camogliis held on the second weekend of May, andis dedicated to the martyr Saint Fortunato,here considered to be the patron saint offishermen. On the Saturday evening, thedistinctive ark of the saint is carried inprocession, after which the twoneighbourhoods light bonfires and aspectacular firework display is given. On theSunday a fish-fry is held, a big gastronomicevent, with crowds gathered around a 4-metre wide frying pan with a sixmetre handlethat serves as a chimney for the fire below.In August the equally redolent Stella Marisfestival takes place, beginning with a paradeof decorated boats, and ending late in theevening with the gulf lit up by thousands ofcoloured candles floating out to sea.THE SURROUNDING AREACamogli is a starting point for trips andexcursions to the outlying hamlets of: Ruta,a magnificent natural amphitheatre;Portofino Vetta, from where you can enjoybreathtaking views of <strong>Liguria</strong> from Tinoisland to Capo Mele; and San Rocco, apanoramic locality perched high above thesea, from where you can walk down to PuntaChiappa, which can also be reached byboat, using the service that runs betweenCamogli and San Fruttuoso.