The Proteus Framebuilding Book - Proteus Bicycles

Recommendations

Info

and bend the dropout to correct the problem. In the end, you musthave the wheel centered between the stays and the string measurementsmust be the same. To braze the assembly in place, start bybrazing the seat stay attachment. Then, braze the stays into thebottom bracket. Braze the outside portion of each stay last. Thetechnique should be the same as brazing the main tubes into the bottombracket. Let the frame cool. Take the wheel out and check thestring measurements. Not only should the string measurements be thesame, but the dropouts should be the same distance apart as the axle.Bend the stays so that they meet those requirements. Insert a hubbetween the dropouts so that they will remain the right distance apart,Now you are ready to put in your bridges. Choose the style bridgeyou want from the drawing in Fig. 8. The construction of each styleSimple heavy gaugeReinforced light gaugeTube over bridgeTube over bridgeCurved bridge may use anyof above add-ons
is self evident. To make the bridge, you must first decide whereyou want to put it . Onmost racing frames , measure36mm from thecenter of the dropout to the center of the bridge, where the brakebridge intersects the seatstay. For touring frames 37mm should do.Measure the distance between the stays at that point and add 1/2".This is the length you should cut your bridge tubing. Use a largeround file and miter the bridge a little at a time checking to seewhen it fits in the proper position. Once this is done put whateveradditional fittings you are going to use on the bridge in place.For example, you might braze a washer onto the bridge now. Drill a1/4" hole for the brake to m.ount in. If you are making a track bike,you will still need a small vent hole in the bridge. Braze the bridgein place m.aking sure that it is not crooked. This is done by heatingthe intersection of the brake bridge and seat stay, about half wayaround the bridge. Apply braze material and then do the other half.Finish by brazing the bridge to the other seat stay. Next, you mustbraze the chainstay bridge. It is done the same way as the brakebridge except that it only gets a vent hole. Also, it is a differentdistance from the dropout. The way to find this distance is to putthe wheel into the frame that you are going to use when you finallyequip the frame. As you put it in, notice how far towards the bottombracket the wheel goes. This is where you put the chainstay bridge.If you are going to use fenders your bridge should be another 1/2"closer to the bottom bracket. Now heat the outsides of the seatstaysand chainstays opposite the bridges, just enough to turn the metalslightly red. This should relieve some stress from the stays. Leteverything cool. Proceed with a string test to make sure everythingis straight. This is called tracking the stays and does not mean43
Page 1: 7PROTEUS DESIGN INC.THE PROTEUSFRAM
Page 5: I would like to thank the following
Page 9: Painting''Metal Preparation 77Apply
Page 12 and 13: Just get ones with metric, or Engli
Page 14 and 15: ,It is not necessary to use differe
Page 16 and 17: .frame more responsive and less ene
Page 18 and 19: The other consideration, clearance,
Page 20 and 21: Thisthe axle center to the ground.
Page 22 and 23: connecting the center of the bottom
Page 24 and 25: Roadgauge of tubing. Most sets avai
Page 26 and 27: efore any damage will occur. So eve
Page 28: The first miter you will work on is
Page 31 and 32: the bottom bracket shell and hold t
Page 33: Preparing the LugsThe next step is
Page 36 and 37: CenterlineFig. 3If possible, use so
Page 38 and 39: area where the clamp was. Turn the
Page 40 and 41: .8the frame will have cooled enough
Page 42 and 43: .touch anything. You don't have to
Page 44 and 45: kept in mind. First, the style of j
Page 46 and 47: The dropout may be able to swing a
Page 48 and 49: Using the scribe marks as a guide,
Page 50 and 51: Gently remove the wheel. Don't worr
Page 54: that you are ruining your frame. Th
Page 58: .Use a small round file for this. T
Page 61 and 62: crushed. At this point the end shou
Page 63 and 64: especially true with silver, which
Page 65 and 66: emain in the right place and you ca
Page 68 and 69: .is much easier to work on them whe
Page 71 and 72: the board. (See Fig. 5B.)Lay the st
Page 73 and 74: Fixing the 2" x 4" axle assembly to
Page 75 and 76: Correct blade angle ,. WrongangleFi
Page 77 and 78: the right and left measurements are
Page 79 and 80: ItLots of points, you may want to s
Page 81 and 82: the lugs and fork crown. For final
Page 83 and 84: PointsNext, using a curved or large
Page 85 and 86: frame. Two popular styles are domed
Page 87 and 88: IPaintingrub your fingers over all
Page 90 and 91: .necessary to use small pieces of s
Page 92 and 93: Fig 2
Page 94 and 95: .wascomplete.Applying the PrimerA p
Page 96 and 97: .ofthink it'd be clean. Chances are
Page 98 and 99: a similar method. At- this point it
Page 100 and 101: To..only exposed a few tiny spots o
Page 102 and 103:
Peoplepaint to give a bright, shiny
Page 104 and 105:
OneAcrylic.and the frame can be bui
Page 106 and 107:
the frame members apart. The diffic
Page 108 and 109:
\bottom bracket or the seat tube ou
Page 110 and 111:
Seat & Chain Stays 4 piecesFork Col
Page 112:
Proteus Design framebuilders are pr
show all

The Proteus Framebuilding Book - Proteus Bicycles

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

Delete template?

Save as template?