Givinga centerboarda liftStory and photosby Andy SchellMy boat is a 1966Allied Seabreezeyawl named Arcturus.The early boats (Arcturusis hull number 56) werereferred to as the ‘bronzeboats’ — in part because theyfeatured a hefty 400-poundbronze centerboard. I eventuallydecided the centerboardlift mechanism needed to bemodified to keep the bronzemonster under control.The centerboard liftingmechanism was solidly builtbut was too complex. A shackleattached a 7x19 wire to theboard, about one third of itslength aft from the hinge pin.The cable turned over a fourinchwire sheave in the keel,and continued inside a smallbronze tube under the cabinsole. Aft, a second bronzesheavebox was positionedunder the engine, wherebythe cable turned upwards,continuing through anotherbronze pipe, until it exited inthe portside cockpit locker andwas wound around a bronzeworm-gear winch, operatedfrom the cockpit. This setupneeded updating and I decidedto simplify its design and createsomething more serviceable.My modification was a bigdeparture from original, andtook five or six drawings beforeI was completely happy with it.I envisioned a liftingarrangement that requiredno sheaves and that could beserviced at sea — simply a linegoing straight to the boardthrough the bottom of thekeel. I thought I could accomplishthis by replacing the lidof the keel sheavebox witha stainless steel plate, ontowhich a stainless pipe wouldbe welded. The pipe wouldspan the cabin interior fromthe keel to the coachroof, andthe cable would run inside it,exiting on deck level and ledto a normal cockpit winch.A sailor, friend and worldrenownedsculptor, RodneyCarroll, has a large workshopin an old warehouse in Baltimoreand invited me up touse it. He could also help withthe welds, with which I hadno experience. Carroll and I46www.oceannavigator.com
spent some enlightening daysin his studio drawing and redrawingmy ideas.Choosing the pipeThe pipe idea quickly gainedsteam. I ordered a length of316 stainless steel pipe, 1.5-inch inside diameter (ID),schedule 40, which gave a wallthickness of about 3/16-inch.We sized the pipe on aesthetics— since it would run in thecenter of my cabin, it had to bea nice handhold and look proportionalto the rest of the interior.It also serves as a mountfor a centerline drop-leaf table.The 1.5-inch ID gives about1.66-inch outside diameter,which suits just fine and feelssolid in your hand.From Carroll’s large supplyof scrap metal, I found a 3/16-inch stainless plate that I couldcut out for the new lid to thekeel sheavebox (which had previouslybeen fiberglass, about6x8 inches). I used the old lidas a template and cut the newone with Carroll’s band saw.Once inside the sheavebox,it was obvious that the originaldesign had some serious flaws.The wire ran over a standardwire sheave, only just largeenough for the wire diameter.This arrangement worked finewith constant tension on thewire — but release this tension,and the cable could easily jumpoff and jam between the sheaveand the walls of the box. Alight grounding with the boarddown could easily do this, andsince the sheavebox is below thewaterline, the only fix involveda haulout.I soon realized that we’dneed at least one sheave tomake my idea work — as theboard begins lowering fromhorizontal, the attachmentpoint moves forward in an arcas the board swings down, sothere would have to be somethingto deflect the line alongits path and prevent it fromtouching the sides of the pipe.Using the old bronze bracketthat the original wire sheavewas attached to, I had a friendturn a new, custom, jumpproofsheave from a solidchunk of bronze. It resemblesan anchor-roller sheave —narrow in the middle, toaccept the cable (which is nowDyneema), and wide at theedges, with a deep vee shape.The sheave is nearly as wideas the bracket, and there is noway for the line to jump off.Furthermore, the sheave isonly about one inch in diameter(versus the old one’s fourinches), leaving space behindit to fish through a new cable,should it break.Correct positioningThe next challenge was toposition the pipe in the correctlocation on the steel plate fora fair lead. The cable wouldbe turning forward now overthe new sheave, and I neededto position the pipe exactlyover the hole in the keel. Thisway, I hoped, if the cable wereto break at sea, I could dropa weighted messenger linedown through the pipe and itwould travel right out throughthe bottom of the boat. All itwould take is a quick swimto re-attach it to the board. Iended up using a clear pieceof acrylic as a template lidand using only my eye, drewa small circle where the pipewould be welded. I transferredthe circle onto the steel, cutit out on a band saw to adiameter just large enough toaccept the pipe and we wentfrom there.The pipe’s design evolved aswell. I decided against bringingthe cable onto the deck andto a winch — the challenge ofkeeping this exit watertight wasmultiplied by the fact that theLeft, Andy Schellinspects thecenterboard ofhis yawl Arcturus.Below left, Arcturusunder sail. Below,the completed pipeand worm gear liftcrank installed onthe boat.www.oceannavigator.com OCTOBER <strong>2011</strong> OCEAN NAVIGATOR 47