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A Diester to Protect Hair from Color Fade and ... - Alluredbooks.com

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424<br />

Chapter 35 Gao et al.<br />

shampoo showed 91.42% tryp<strong>to</strong>phan protection. The addition of the<br />

diester <strong>to</strong> the shampoo improved the protection against degradation<br />

of amino acids in the hair fiber. The tryp<strong>to</strong>phan degradation testing<br />

was not performed on the conditioner series; however, researchers<br />

anticipate similar results would be seen.<br />

Figure 35.7. Change in tryp<strong>to</strong>phan intensity after UV exposure <strong>and</strong> treatment with diester<br />

shampoo<br />

Testing UVB <strong>Protect</strong>ion with Tensile Strength<br />

Fibers showing a decrease in stress-<strong>to</strong>-break forces after UV exposure<br />

have undergone a loss in mechanical strength primarily due <strong>to</strong><br />

the breaking of disulfide bonds inside the hair cortex. A <strong>com</strong>parison<br />

of the tensile strength of virgin brown hair treated with the diester<br />

shampoo was made <strong>to</strong> hair similarly treated with the control rinseoff<br />

product. Note that disulfide bonds inside the cortex have been<br />

broken in the tresses treated with the control shampoo, while tresses<br />

treated with the diester have no disulfide bond breakage (see Figure<br />

35.8). The diester shampoo protected the hair <strong>from</strong> UVB damage<br />

<strong>and</strong> preserved the hair’s natural strength.<br />

Using the same methodology, virgin brown hair tresses were<br />

treated with the control <strong>and</strong> diester conditioner, respectively, for<br />

tensile strength measurements. The diester conditioner also provided<br />

protection against damage <strong>to</strong> the fiber (see Figure 35.9).

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