A Diester to Protect Hair from Color Fade and ... - Alluredbooks.com

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416 Chapter 35 Gao et al. The effects of UVB radiation on hair also can be severe, resulting in the breakdown of disulfide bonds both inside the hair fiber and on the surface of the cuticle. 3 Such disruptions to the disulfide linkages of the hair fiber can have a major impact on hair’s mechanical properties, resulting in the loss of tensile strength and an increase in porosity and irregularities on the hair surface. To protect hair from UV damage, UV filters deposited on the hair surface absorb incident UV light. As noted, since both UVA and UVB radiation cause severe and perceivable damage, broadspectrum UV absorbers provide the best protection from fading and sun damage. In addition to broad spectrum coverage, deposition and absorption onto the hair surface are crucial factors to consider when designing materials for rinse-off systems. Figure 35.1. absorption spectrum of the diester solution In the present chapter, the authors introduce a quaternized diester a designed to provide broad-spectrum protection to hair in rinse-off systems. An absorption spectrum of the diester solution (20.0 mg/L active in SDA-40), shown in Figure 35.1, ranges from the UVB region (280–320 nm) to the UVA region (320–400 nm). The absorption peak, located at 310 nm, falls within the UVA region, thus researchers concluded the material should provide efficacious a Chromaveil (INCI: Quaternium-95 (and) propanediol) is a product of Croda Inc.
417 A Diester to Protect Hair from Color Fade and Sun Damage color protection for dyed hair. Additional studies (data not shown) examined the material’s stability after five days of UV exposure, showing no change in absorbance or net weight for the diester. Thus, further studies were warranted to examine its ability to protect hair fibers from cuticle damage and reduced tensile strength resulting from degradation of tryptophan and proteins on the hair surface and inside the hair fiber. The ability of the diester to protect hair from colorfade in the presence of UV radiation also was examined. Materials and Methods Various protocols were used to evaluate the diester’s ability to protect hair fibers from UV damage. Bleached European brown hair tresses were dyed with either a commercially available medium brown hair color or medium auburn color for 30 min following the instructions provided in color kits. For testing of UVB damage, virgin dark brown hair was used. Some tresses were treated with control and diester-containing shampoos and conditioners (see Formulas 1 and 2). A subset of treated tresses were then irradiated b for 3 hr on each side, totaling 6 hr-equivalent to one day of UV exposure 4 -with UV radiation (200–400 nm) at 50 W/m 1 using a quartz inner filter and type “s” borosilicate outer filter. At the start of the study and at intervals equivalent to every five days of UV exposuree.g., after every 30 hrs-tresses were treated again with control and diester-containing shampoos and conditioners. Irradiated tresses were exposed to the total equivalent of 15 days of UV exposure. Test conditions were maintained at 40°C and 65% relative humidity. Different types of tresses were compared, including those that were dyed and not exposed to treatment or UV exposure; dyed and treated with the control shampoos and conditioners and exposed to UV; and dyed and treated with shampoos and conditioners containing the diester and exposed to UV. Comparative color loss was determined both objectively and subjectively. The total color loss (∆E) was calculated by assessing the changes in L*, a*, b* readings b the atlas Ci300+ Xenon Weather-Ometer is a product of atlas Material testing Solutions, International hair Importers
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A Diester to Protect Hair from Color Fade and ... - Alluredbooks.com

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