Viva Brighton September 2015 Issue #31
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John Helmer<br />
Ibsen and me<br />
Illustration by Joda, jonydaga.weebly.com<br />
‘Is this your first visit to Grimstad?’ Tall and<br />
twenty-something, Cedrik is our guide for the<br />
Ibsen tour that my family has allowed me to<br />
inflict on them. The playwright lived in this little<br />
harbour town when he was young, and wrote his<br />
first play here.<br />
‘I’ve never been to Norway before,’ I tell him,<br />
‘but my great-grandfather was born in Grimstad.’<br />
‘Oh yes, I know about the Helmers.’<br />
I do a double take.<br />
‘There were only 800 people in Grimstad at the<br />
time,’ explains Cedrik who, it turns out, is a bit<br />
of a local historian. He is keen to share what he<br />
knows, and since we modern Helmers are the<br />
only people who have signed up for the tour, the<br />
rest of it takes on a bit of a theme.<br />
‘… So this is where Ibsen lived – in a<br />
house owned by one of your relatives.<br />
He was an apothecary, but always away<br />
at sea ...’ These were useful absences.<br />
The role of apothecary in those<br />
days involved dispensing wine and<br />
spirits, and my relative’s long sea<br />
trips allowed Ibsen, his assistant,<br />
to turn the place into party central<br />
for bohemian youth. Everyone<br />
back to Henrik’s. I picture a crowd<br />
of whacked-out hipsters (one of<br />
whom, it transpires, was a further<br />
relative) in velvet jackets, slooshing<br />
back the pharmaceutical hooch.<br />
Ibsen also liked to go at it during the<br />
day, getting high on his own supply<br />
as he neglected the business and<br />
cracked on with what was to<br />
be the first in a long line of world-class gloomy<br />
dramas.<br />
Cedrik lets us into the house, which is being restored.<br />
There’s not much to see. I look across the<br />
street to the doll’s house of a place we’re staying<br />
at, called Café Ibsen. ‘Do you think he actually<br />
went there?’ I ask.<br />
‘Certainly not: it didn’t serve alcohol.’<br />
I’ve always known there was some sort of Ibsen<br />
connection, but the stories were vague. Besides<br />
which, all family history projects are to some<br />
extent self-aggrandising, and about as interesting<br />
to listen to as other people’s dreams. ‘Even people<br />
in the same family aren’t interested in them,’<br />
quips son Freddy when I try to tell him later<br />
about ours. ‘—There: comedy gold; put that in<br />
your column.’<br />
So he never hears the last bit of the story.<br />
I’ve brought a book to Grimstad, a town ledger<br />
from 1897 that has come down through the family.<br />
Cedrik’s eyes grow round when I pull it out<br />
of my IKEA backpack. There is a chapter headed<br />
‘Helmer’, and though the text is in Norwegian,<br />
you can clearly see the name Henrik Ibsen in one<br />
of the footnotes. ‘What’s that all about?’<br />
Cedrik translates. The footnote concerns a third<br />
relative, whose story might or might not have inspired<br />
a famous poem of Ibsen’s called Terje Vigen.<br />
He was arrested by the British Navy for breaking<br />
the blockade of Grimstad during the Napoleonic<br />
wars – rowing to Denmark and back for supplies.<br />
They banged him up in Reading Gaol.<br />
Drug landlord … Pisshead … Jailbird: what a<br />
heritage.<br />
I feel suitably aggrandised.<br />
....31....