Photos Courtesy of Dev and Chuck Stern 84 Wine Dine & Travel Summer/Fall <strong>2015</strong>
enda-style bed in commanding dark mahogany, with 12-foot high windows letting in jungle sounds to lull you to sleep. Get the idea of how rock stars live now? We unpacked and finished our drinks on our veranda serenaded by water splashing into pools and hidden fishponds. Beyond, one of the hacienda’s many stone paths disappeared into a carefully attended jungle of native trees. We didn’t leave the grounds for three days and two nights. The hacienda offers various excursions for its guests. But when the epicures went off on an exploratory day trip to the markets of Merida, we stayed behind. We weren’t going anywhere How many chances do you get to live like a rock star? The Hacienda Petac story began long before the rock star era. After the conquest of Mexico, Spain needed a way to control and exploit the vast new territories. So the crown granted huge tracts of land to Spanish nobles. These tracts, organized around haciendas, became centers of farming and manufacturing and the basis of a far-flung feudal system. From the late 1600s to the mid 1900s, Petac and the other haciendas were symbols of wealth and status. Mexico’s version of southern plantations. And, like plantations, in the early days haciendas adhered to a strict racial caste system. The “haciendados,” or landowners, were the masters, the “indigenos,” mostly Maya, were the workers. The economics of the hacienda system changed in the 19th century and Petac changed with it. Originally designed for cattle ranching and farming, Petac, like many Yucatacan haciendas, began producing henequen -- later called sisal because it was shipped from the colonial port of Sisal. Shredding the pulpy leaves of the henequen, a type of agave plant, creates fibers for rope and twine. Mechanized shredders, introduced in the late 19th century, created an unprecedented boom. Sisal was “green gold.” Haciendas maintained huge fields of agave and hundreds of workers. Along with its “casa de maquinas” (machinery house) and 50-foot chimney for its power plant, haciendas often included a school, a church, stables, an infirmary, servants’ quarters, a granary, and a company store. The boom didn’t last. New processes for making rope and twine appeared after World War II. Eventually the sisal industry collapsed and, one by one, most of the haciendas were abandoned. But there’s a happy ending. In the 1990s, Mexican banker Robert Hernandez began restoring the derelict haciendas to Opposite: The Hacienda Petac before and after restoration. Above :The hacienda main building veranda and kitchen. Wine Dine & Travel Summer/Fall <strong>2015</strong> 85