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WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE SUMMER FALL 2015 HD.pdf

This issue features Washington State wines, from Seattle to Walla. Join Ron and Mary James on a tasty adventure in northwest wine country.

This issue features Washington State wines, from Seattle to Walla. Join Ron and Mary James on a tasty adventure in northwest wine country.

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enda-style bed in commanding dark mahogany,<br />

with 12-foot high windows letting<br />

in jungle sounds to lull you to sleep.<br />

Get the idea of how rock stars live now?<br />

We unpacked and finished our drinks on<br />

our veranda serenaded by water splashing<br />

into pools and hidden fishponds.<br />

Beyond, one of the hacienda’s many<br />

stone paths disappeared into a carefully<br />

attended jungle of native trees.<br />

We didn’t leave the grounds for three<br />

days and two nights. The hacienda offers<br />

various excursions for its guests.<br />

But when the epicures went off on an<br />

exploratory day trip to the markets of<br />

Merida, we stayed behind. We weren’t<br />

going anywhere How many chances do<br />

you get to live like a rock star?<br />

The Hacienda Petac story began long before<br />

the rock star era. After the conquest<br />

of Mexico, Spain needed a way to control<br />

and exploit the vast new territories.<br />

So the crown granted huge tracts of land<br />

to Spanish nobles. These tracts, organized<br />

around haciendas, became centers<br />

of farming and manufacturing and the<br />

basis of a far-flung feudal system.<br />

From the late 1600s to the mid 1900s,<br />

Petac and the other haciendas were<br />

symbols of wealth and status. Mexico’s<br />

version of southern plantations. And,<br />

like plantations, in the early days haciendas<br />

adhered to a strict racial caste<br />

system. The “haciendados,” or landowners,<br />

were the masters, the “indigenos,”<br />

mostly Maya, were the workers.<br />

The economics of the hacienda system<br />

changed in the 19th century and Petac<br />

changed with it. Originally designed<br />

for cattle ranching and farming, Petac,<br />

like many Yucatacan haciendas, began<br />

producing henequen -- later called sisal<br />

because it was shipped from the colonial<br />

port of Sisal. Shredding the pulpy leaves<br />

of the henequen, a type of agave plant,<br />

creates fibers for rope and twine.<br />

Mechanized shredders, introduced in<br />

the late 19th century, created an unprecedented<br />

boom. Sisal was “green<br />

gold.” Haciendas maintained huge<br />

fields of agave and hundreds of workers.<br />

Along with its “casa de maquinas” (machinery<br />

house) and 50-foot chimney for<br />

its power plant, haciendas often included<br />

a school, a church, stables, an infirmary,<br />

servants’ quarters, a granary, and<br />

a company store.<br />

The boom didn’t last. New processes for<br />

making rope and twine appeared after<br />

World War II. Eventually the sisal industry<br />

collapsed and, one by one, most of<br />

the haciendas were abandoned.<br />

But there’s a happy ending. In the 1990s,<br />

Mexican banker Robert Hernandez began<br />

restoring the derelict haciendas to<br />

Opposite: The Hacienda Petac before and after<br />

restoration. Above :The hacienda main building<br />

veranda and kitchen.<br />

Wine Dine & Travel Summer/Fall <strong>2015</strong> 85

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