DELHI

Issue 06 | December 2011
T R A V E L M A G
e x p l o r i n g
DELHI

Welcome to
Delhi… Or is it
Dihli, Daidala,
Dilli or Dhila?
What is in a name?
A lot if it is a matter of identity and history.
Leading to the toponymy of the city being
full of mythological and historical theories.
Earlier travellers to India including
the two Greek travellers Nearchus and
Megasthenese, Fah Hian and the great Chinese traveler Hiuen Tsiang, who
visited India in 5th century A.D., never mentioned a city which may have
been Delhi, but they did refer to other important ones in north India. Greek
geographer Ptolemy mentions Dilli, which he called Daidala, which may have
been established around 57 B.C. in the area between the present day Qutab
Minar complex and Tughlaqabad Fort by King Delu of Kanauj. But there is
as yet no archaeological or historical evidence of the existence of either this
city or the king.
The pillar at the Qutab is (mythically) believed to pre-date the foundation
of Delhi, and may have been brought from Bihar by the city’s founding king
Anang Pal. According to legend, a Hindu priest advised the king to plant it in
the ground so that it could rest on the head of the snake king; and as long as
that holds steady, the king’s rule will do so likewise. After putting the pillar in,
the king was not sure if it had been done correctly and ordered the pillar to
be uprooted. Finding its base covered with blood from the snake king’s head,
Anang Pal had it put back hurriedly lest he invoke any curses. But it could
never be stable like before. In Hindi, the pillar was said to be dihli meaning
loose. This name of the city may thus have been derived from the word dihli.
Some historians believe Delhi was occupied around A.D. 300 before being
abandoned for reasons unknown; what is for sure is that the Tomar king
Anang Pal decided to move here and make it his capital in 1052.
The great Arab traveller and adventurer from Tangier, referred to the city as
Dihli in the 14th century. Some other writings have spelt it Delle.
Whatever its name, and whatever its failings, there is no doubt Delhi is a
delightful place. Go explore. The journey will never finish.
contents
Delhi Special:
08 Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque:
When history changed forever
09 Qutab Minar: Still looking for answers
11 The Iron Pillar: Go figure its
dimensions
12 Razia Sultan: Will the queen rise from
her grave
13 Sultan Garhi: Surreal show in the
basement tomb
14 HAUZ KHAS: Back to School
16 Humayan’s Tomb: For husband, with
love
19 A Walk Down MEHRAULI VILLAGE
22 JAISALMER, rajasthan The city in the
fort, and beyond
29 THAILAND, The Festival of Lanterns,
Lights and Floats in Chiang Mai
41 Hotel Reviews
> River Tern Lodge - Bhadra Wildlife
Sanctuary, Karnataka
> Shaam-e-Sarhad Village Resort,
- Hodka, Gujarat
46 Stuff
> Kunzum Travel Pix
> Sketch Feature - Jim Corbett National
Park
> Book Review: Into Thin Air
> The Handwritten Travelogue
team kunzum
CTO (Chief Travelling Officer): Ajay Jain
- He also hogs the driver’s seat
CEO (Chief Editorial Officer): Anubhuti Rana
- Prefers being on the passenger seat on the highways
CSO (Chief Social Officer): Shruti Sharma
- Found on Facebook, Twitter, Kunzum Travel Café or
trekking in the wild
CDO (Chief Design Officer): Faizan Patel
- Also Chief Desk Officer, that’s where he is stuck when
others travel
*Unless mentioned, all articles and photographs in this issue are by Ajay Jain
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kunzum travel mag
(Previous Issues)
Missed the earlier issues of the Kunzum Travel Mag? No problem.
Download the same at http://kunzum.com/mag.
This is what we have covered:
Issue 1, July 2011
RAJASTHAN / RANTHAMBHORE:
> Looking the tiger in the eye
NAGALAND: Misty Mountain Top
The re-discovery of NEPAL
LADAKH: At the top of the world
HIMACHAL PRADESH / LAHAUL SPITI
> Kaza: Paradise is Here
> Tabo, the Village of Cavemen and Lamas
DELHI
> Mehrauli Archaeological Park: Bet no one tells you this
one
> Hazrat Nizamuddin’s Dargah: Qawwalis,
Fairs, Prayers, Shopping – It all happens here
BOOKS: > 5 books to read about the 1996 Everest disaster
GUJARAT
> Rani ki Vav in Patan: A Stepwell or a Work of Art?
> The Sun Temple at Modhera
JORDAN
> Dead Sea: Try sinking in it, you cannot!
HOTEL REVIEWS
> Swaswara in Gokarna, Karnataka - Perfect to uplift your
body, mind and soul
> Banasura Island Retreat, Wayanad Kerala - What a
perfect setting for a resort
> Banjara Camps and Retreat, Sangla, Himachal Pradesh
- Cannot Admire it Enough
> Gir Birding Lodge, Sasan Gir, Gujarat - They know the
jungle!
Issue 2, aUGUST 2011
Assam:
> Manas National Park: The Games Elephants Play
Arunachal Pradesh:
> Hello Ladies…of Arunachal Pradesh
Himachal Pradesh
Maharashtra:
> The Matheran Light Railway: Go for a Joyride
Uttarakhand
> Kunzum Route K14
Delhi
> If it’s Ramadan, you must be in Matia Mahal
> Walk on the Northern Ridge: History in One Sweep
Rajasthan
> Kuldhara, Jaisalmer: When the Paliwals Vanished into
the Night
> Bera: Welcome to Leopard Country - It is Wild and Free
HOTEL REVIEWS
> Banjara Retreat, Shoja
> The Almond Villa, Srinagar
> Rann Riders, Dasada, Rann of Kutch
> Devra Homestay, Udaipur
Stuff
> Sketch Feature - Singapore
> Photography: Don’t let the Camera go Dead on you
> Book Review: Journey to the Center of the Earth

Issue 3, SEPTEMBER 2011 Issue 4, OCTOBER 2011
A Journey to Kashmir, on Kunzum Route K11
Delhi
> Join the annual Dussehra Procession
Safdarjung’s Tomb
Tamil Nadu: The Niligiri Mountain Railway - A Toy Train
you must Ride
Rajasthan
Jodhpur: Food, Bazaars, History - It all Happens Here
Hotel Reviews
> Castle Bera, Bera, Rajasthan Rain Country Resorts
> Wayanad, Kerala
>The Blackbuck Lodge, Velavadar, Gujarat
> Banjara Orchard Retreat, Thanedar, Himachal Pradesh
Stuff
> Travel Bites: Don’t be Jet-Lagged this Holiday Season
> Sketch Feature - Malaysia
> Book Review: River Dog
Postcards from Gujarat
Himachal Pradesh
Thanedar: The birthplace of apples in India
Rajasthan
Mount Abu: A quiet oasis in a desert state
Delhi
Chor Minar: Making an example of thieves
Khooni Darwaza: The gate with a bloody history
Kinari Bazaar: Where colours change with seasons
Jordan
Wadi Rum: A vast, echoing and God-like desert
Hotel Reviews
> Wild Grass Lodge, Kaziranga, Assam
> Soulitude, Ramgarh, Uttarakhand
Stuff
> The Wanderer’s Palate: Elai Adai
> Travel Bites
> Sketch Feature - Kanha National Park
> Book Review: Being a Scot
> The Handwritten Travelogue
Issue 5, november 2011
Bikaner, Rajasthan:
Enchanting camel fair and lots more
Thanedar: The birthplace of apples in India
Photo Feature: Hitting a Wall
Delhi
Purana Qila (Old Fort): Where emperors take fatal tumbles
Khair-ul-Manazil Mosque: A gift from the nanny
Hotel Reviews
> Iora, The Retreat - Kaziranga, Assam
> Fish Tail Lodge - Pokhara, Nepal
Stuff
> The Wanderer’s Palate: A chick for every season
> Sketch Feature - Switzerland
> Book Review: Three Men in a Boat
> The Handwritten Travelogue

DELHI
Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque
When history changed forever…
The Delhi we know today had its foundations laid in A.D.
1191-92 when Mohammed Ghori of Ghazni in centraleast
Afghanistan defeated Prithviraj Chauhan, the last
Hindu monarch to rule Delhi. He entrusted Qutbuddin Aibak,
his slave general, as administrator of this newly acquired
territory. And the first task he set out to do was building the
Quwwat-ul-Islam, or the Might of Islam, mosque. It stands
next to the Qutab Minar.
Qutbuddin did not have any designers and architects with
him, nor did he have enough financial resources to build
the mosque. He proceeded to demolish 27 Jain and Hindu
temples and build the mosque using its materials on the same
site. He employed Hindu masons from Lal Kot to carry out
the task at hand. With little knowledge of Islamic styles, these
workers made structures very different from what one saw
in the following centuries in India. They built arches without
keystones, which collapsed subsequently. Qutbuddin also
wanted texts from the Koran in Arabic to be engraved, but the
workers could only manage to carve beautiful plants growing
up the arch and put Arabic texts in between the leaves.
In fact, the rear part of the mosque with pillars may have been
a part of an original Hindu temple; this is known as Prithviraj
Chauhan’s Chaunsath Khamba or 64-pillared hall. The pillars
used from Hindu temples had images of humans and animals,
banned in Islam. These were defaced leaving only the rest of
the bodies still to be seen. The mosque does not even have a
dome, unlike those made later. It was either never made, or
it collapsed.
Iltutmish, who succeeded Qutbuddin, made expansions to
the mosque by adding six more arches – some of which are
still existing in their original form. Expert workers from Ghor
and Persia had come over by this time, their work distinctly
standing out from the earlier one. Instead of flowers and
plants, they made geometrical figures like circles and triangles.
Alauddin Khilji decided to expand the mosque further by
adding more arches. For over a hundred years, this mosque
was the Jama Masjid or the main mosque for the royals of
Delhi. Eventually, Firozshah built a new one in the city of
Firozabad in 1360. Alauddin also added a gateway to the
mosque, called the Alai Darwaza, made of sandstone and
8

marble. By this time, the problem of arches and domes had
also been solved.
Overall, the construction took place without any proper plans
in the Qutab complex and went on from the 12th to the 19th
centuries. After Timur took Delhi in 1398, the mosque fell into
a state of disrepair till the British took it upon themselves to
repair the arches in the mid-19th century.
When you stand at the mosque and face the Mehrab or the
Qutab Minar
Still Looking for Answers
western wall facing Mecca, you cannot but feel a historical
chill run up your spine. In 1192, 27 Jain and Hindu temples
were demolished to make a mosque – and the first formal
outpost of Islam was established in India. The country would
never be the same again – socially and politically. Exactly
800 years later, in 1992, the right wing Bhartiya Janta Party
demolished the Babri Masjid (mosque) in Ayodhya in North
India to make a Hindu temple – and the history of modern
India changed forever.
Pisa in Italy has its Leaning Tower, Paris its Eiffel Tower and
Delhi its Qutab Minar – the branding of these cities are all
linked to their most famous landmarks. But none have as
much history and intrigue as Delhi’s minaret.
For starters, no one knows for sure why this was built. Did
the king seek pleasure at its sight? Was it built to give a call
to prayer? From 234 feet high (a climb of 378 steps), the
highest single tower in the world, the mullahs (priests) are
unlikely to be audible at the ground level. In all likelihood it
may have been built as a Tower of Victory. Allow a stretch
of the imagination, and maybe Qutbuddin Aibak was only
too pleased to be elevated from a slave to a king and this
was his way of celebrating the moment. There is another
thought going around: it was built in the memory of Sufi
saint Qutbuddin Kaki whose mazaar (shrine) is nearby; the
name of the minaret is on account of the saint rather than
the king. If nothing else, it certainly served as a good watch
tower for the Khilji and Tughlaq kings, who could monitor
the progress of the wild Mongol hordes on their way to
invade Delhi.
Then there are theories about who built the Minar. Hindus
believe the first storey was actually built by the last Hindu
King of Delhi, Prithviraj Chauhan. Why? For his wife and
daughter to enjoy views of the river Yamuna in the evenings.
Evidently, the river used to flow much closer to this area
than its current position. But no historian or archaeologist
has stuck his neck out yet to support this claim. Fortunately,
neither have any Hindu fundamentalists. Until we know
any better, the credit for the first floor clearly rests with
Qutbuddin Aibak, and the next two floors by his successor
Iltutmish.
The minaret has reportedly been struck by lightening thrice
in its history, and two earthquakes caused further damages
besides giving the minaret a slight tilt to one side. Firoz
Shah had to repair the top two floors and even added a
little pavilion at the top. These two floors are distinguished
by their smooth white marble finish. It underwent further
View of the Qutab Minar through the arches of
Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque
repairs under Sikander Lodi in 1505. After further damages
in 1794, British Major Smith decided to replace the cupola
at the top with a new one. The Governor General Sir Henry
Hardinge did not approve of it and had it removed in 1848.
This structure now stands on the ground in one corner and
referred to as ‘Smith’s folly.’
One has grown up listening to theories about the Qutab
having two more floors that came down when a plane
crashed into it. However, an accident of that nature would
have been recorded as it could only have happened in the
modern era. And , in all probability then, not just two, but
9

the whole structure would have collapsed like the Twin
Towers in New York.
After a stampede killed many school children in 1981,
visitors are no longer allowed to climb the Qutab Minar – a
pity really, denying one a 360 degree view of the city. The
structure had gained infamy with its top floor being used
as a diving board for those wanting to fast forward their
move to the next life. A thought here: the Minar was built
with sloping roofs to give it a strong foundation – anyone
jumping off the top floor is likely to crash against the walls
and not the ground first.
Allaudin Khilji’s unfinished tower of victory
Alauddin Khilji’s Follies and Contributions
Alauddin Khilji did his bit to add to the Qutab Minar
complex in the early 14th century. He made a madarsa or
a place of learning for students to learn Arabic and study
the Koran. According to one report he is buried next to this
madarsa but one is not sure.
His folly was trying to build a Tower of Victory to
commemorate his victories in the Deccan region of south
India. He wanted it to be twice the height of the Qutab
Minar. He died soon after starting work on it. The tower,
called Alai Minar, stands close to the Qutab Minar with
only the lower floor partially complete. The structure was
found to be too perpendicular to be stable. And the political
turmoil following Alauddin’s death when five kings came to
power over a decade meant such works could never have
priority. Both the expansion work on the mosque and this
minaret were left incomplete forever.
Where do Iltutmish and Qutbuddin rest in
peace?
Illtutmish had the foresight to plan his own tomb, and made
one of red stone in the Qutab Minar complex. Surprisingly
it has no dome; it probably had a timber covering which
got worn away with time. The local architects were still
not knowledgeable about making domes at that stage.
It is one of the oldest Muslim tombs in India. The only
identifiable one before this is of his eldest son, Nasiruddin
Mohammed, who died before him in 1228-9. His tomb,
known at Sultan Garhi, is located in the present day Vasant
Kunj area of south Delhi.
10

The Iron Pillar
Go figure its dimensions
The wonders around Qutab Minar (itself a wonder) never
cease. Take the case of the Iron Pillar located in the
Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque compound.
Dating back to the 4th century A.D., the pillar bears an
inscription whose interpretation says it was erected to
honour Hindu God Vishnu by a certain King Chandra (could
possibly be King Chandragupta II, A.D. 375 – 413). These
facts may not be confirmed, but the pillar’s Superman
features are.
It stands 7.3 meters tall, one meter below the ground; it
is 48 centimetres wide at the foot, tapering to 29 cms at
the top (you need to figure out how to measure the top
yourself!). And, it should weigh about 6.5 tonnes – again
lift it to prove us wrong. If these dimensions are not in
place, somebody has tampered with our pillar!
And there is more: the pillar is 98 percent wrought
iron and has stood 1,600 years without rusting or
decomposing. Those old guys really knew their stuff! And
was it thick-skinned. When Nadir Shah attacked Delhi, his
workers could not uproot it as snakes are believed to have
surrounded the pillar to form a protective barrier. Cannon
shots could leave little more than marks on the surface –
these might have been fired either by Nadir Shah’s army
or the Marathas. The pillar also survived earthquakes that
damaged other structures in the complex.
There was a time when you were allowed to go right up
to the pillar and put your arms around it – a fence keeps
people at bay now. The only known exception in recent
times was for Bollywood superstar Amitabh Bachchan
while shooting for the film Cheeni Kum.
Watch the flick to know if his arms managed to hug the
pillar fully.
The Iron Pillar in the Qutab Minar complex
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11

Razia Sultan
Will the Queen rise from her real grave?
Only two women have ‘ruled’ India from Delhi. The first
was Razia Sultan who ruled from A.D. 1236 – 1240 as
the chosen heir to her father Shamsuddin Iltutmish;
she was preferred over her brothers. And the other was
democratically elected Indira Gandhi, the prime minister
for multiple terms between the 1960s and the 1980s.
What did they have in common? Both met violent deaths.
The Queen was killed in battlefield when her own nobles
and brother Bahram Shah rebelled against her. Indira
Gandhi too was the victim of an inside job when she was
assassinated on 31 October 1984 by her own bodyguards
at her own residence. Indira Gandhi’s memorial is at her
former residence, 1 Safdarjung Road in New Delhi.
What happened to Razia Sultan?
Officially, she is buried deep in the bylanes of Bulbuli Khana
in old Delhi. The unpretentious site has two simple graves,
one supposedly of her sister Saziya. No one is sure which is
whose. But the uncertainty does not end here. Her burial
sites are also (unofficially) claimed to be in Siwan near
Kaithal in Haryana, in Tonk in Rajasthan and at the mosque
next to the Rajon ki Baoli in Mehrauli Archaeological Park
in south Delhi.
If you solve the mystery, tell us. Digging graves at midnight
may not be a good idea though.
Getting there: Take the Metro to Chawri Bazaar. From here, walk till the end of Sitaram Bazaar and ask for Bulbuli Khana
starting alongside a mosque. Enter the lane, and take the first left; at the next fork, turn right and keep walking till the dead end.
Alternately, you can walk from Turkman Gate and reach the same place.
12

Sultan garhi
Step out on an empty stomach
The entrance to the Sultan Garhi.
The basement with the graves where the devout come calling on Thursdays at Sultan Garhi (Inset)
Surreal show in the basement tomb
The Sultan Garhi tomb is known to be the oldest
surviving resting place for anyone in Delhi. The
basement with three graves is usually dark and
damp, and you have to watch your step, and head, when
you go in. Little stirs inside except on Thursdays.
It is the day when both Muslims and Hindus converge
here all day to offer their prayers to Nasiru’d-Din Baba,
and the underground turns all surreal. Hundreds of lamps
and candles are lit by devotees, creating a smoky lighted
wonder within. It is jostling time with scores cramping the
space at any given time - but it will not disturb your senses.
The sight will keep you transfixed, even moving you in a
way. Faith does have a certain kind of an energy to it.
Surprisingly, the tomb is not dedicated to a holy man but
to a prince who would have been emperor, or sultan.
Nasiru’d-Din Mahmud was the heir-apparent to the throne
after his father Sultan Iltutmish but met an untimely death
around 1231 A.D. Nasiru’d-Din was the brother of Razia
Sultan, the first and only woman monarch to rule from
Delhi. Tragically, all siblings met with untimely or violent
deaths.
Thursdays are a day for prayers and feasting. The welloff
serve free meals around mid-day, and a small flea
market comes up in the surrounding area. People from
neighbouring areas come in a festive mood. Located
in south Delhi’s Vasant Kunj area, it is off the main
thoroughfare in a forested area. You can see it from the
road, but chances are you will ignore it. Don’t. Venture in,
and spend some time with yourself on any day. You will not
be able to stop yourself from wondering about the man
who lies buried since nearly forever, and the times that
were. Even as airplanes whiz by above you to and from the
city’s airport nearby.
Travel Tip: Sultan Garhi is located opposite Sector C, Pocket 9 in south Delhi’s Vasant Kunj.
9

The assembly hall, or Majlis Khana
Hauz Khas
Back to School
As far as oases go, Hauz Khas is tough to beat. A green
lung, away from the noise and dust of the city, with
historical structures to boot and a water body to calm
the soul – all in the heart of south Delhi.
The opening credit should go to Alauddin Khilji (1296 – 1316)
who built a private reservoir when making the new city of Siri
in the early 14th century – the name means special (Khas) tank
(Hauz), made specifically for royal use. He called this reservoir
Hauz-i-Alai, and it had a capacity of about 800 million litres.
The following act starred Firoz Shah Tughlaq (1351 – 1388)
who set up a Madrasa (an educational institution) called
Madrasa-e-Feroz Shahi – and established Delhi as a great seat
of learning. And the present day authorities deserve a pat on
the back for landscaping the area to make for fun outings.
The Madrasa served as a university of its time. The teachings
included Arabic, the Koran, Muslim Theology, Philosophy and
Law. It attracted scholars from as far as Central Asia to study
and teach. Persian was studied by nobles but usually through
private tutors. Citizens pursuing commercial professionals
went to their own schools where they were taught in their
vernacular languages like Hindi and Urdu.
When you explore the buildings, allow your imagination to go
back in time and visualize students pursuing academics in the
many chambers of the Madrasa. The buildings were said to
have been covered with white plaster at the time, and painted
in bright colours with golden domes. A large hall, a majlis
khana, was used as an assembly hall. Firoz Shah decided to
build his own tomb at the intersection of the two wings of
Metro: Green Park (a 20-30 minute walk from there or a quick rickshaw ride)
14

The tomb of Feroz Shah
the Madrasa. In the garden outside are chhatris, or domes
supported by pillars open on the sides. At one time there
were unidentifiable graves here, probably of the teachers, but
these have been flattened – in all likelihood by people who
used these for shelter over the centuries.
Be careful, don’t take a tumble from the edge of the
monuments. It is a steep fall – and don’t think you will go
Splaaaash! The water tank is some distance away and you will
only hear Craaaack!!
Chhatris in the gardens
26
9

Humayun’s Tomb
Humayun’s Tomb
For Husband, With Love!
The fifth Mughal emperor Shahjahan may be a hero
to every romantic for building the Taj Mahal in the
memory of his wife Mumtaz Mahal, but did you know
the inspiration came from his great grandmother Hamida
Banu Begum?
Wife of second Mughal emperor Humayun, she built the
Humayun’s Tomb in the loving memory of her late husband.
Some sources also credit the building to Humayun’s senior
widow, Bega Begum, also known as Haji Begum (because
she performed the Haj). Persian architect Mirak Mirza
Ghiyas ensured the final resting place befitted the status of
the deceased. And when Shahjahan started work on the Taj
Mahal, he came knocking on the doors of Humayun’s Tomb
for design ideas. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage
Site in 1993.
It was built in 1565, nine years after Humayun tumbled
down his library steps and died. The site was selected for its
proximity to the Nizamuddin Dargah, the mausoleum of the
Sufi saint Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya. The whole area was thus
believed to be blessed and, if one is buried here too, it was
seen as a shortcut to heaven. It also explains why you see so
many tombs in this area including the ones at Lodi Gardens.
The Mughals were much richer than the earlier rulers
of Delhi, and this is reflected in the use of higher quality
sandstone and marble. A lot of effort and money went in the
carved texts and inlay work on marble walls, as also the jaali
or trellis work in red sandstone. The dome is a full dome; it
is a full semicircle while all previous ones in Delhi were half
semicircles. The building also stands on a large platform,
giving it an even more imposing look.
Besides Humayun, his wife and some subsequent Mughal
royalty are buried here. All are unmarked, but one of these is
of Dara Shikoh, eldest son of Shahjahan, who was murdered
by his brother Aurangzeb to usurp the throne. Although he
now rests in peace (we hope!), Humayun’s reign was marked
16

The mosque and tomb of Isa Khan Niyasi
by a lot of strife! He came to power in 1530 after the death of
his father Babur but lost his throne to Sher Shah or Sher Khan
(no, not the one from ‘Jungle Book’!) in 1539. After spending
15 years in exile, he did get his kingdom back in 1555 but died
a year later!
Mughals loved to build gardens, and they did so wherever
they went (including the famous Mughal Gardens of Srinagar
in Kashmir). It is the case here too. These are interlaced
with water channels to keep the gardens green and fresh.
Roses had been planted to bloom in the day, while jasmines
flowered at night. There were fruit trees like pomegranates
and flowering ones like Gulmohar and Amaltas. This planning
ensured beautiful sights all year round, 24 hours a day.
The river Yamuna used to form the North-Eastern wall of
the complex but has since changed course, replaced by a
motorable road with a railway line not too far behind. When
you enter the complex, you will notice an octagonal enclosure;
it is a mosque and tomb of Isa Khan Niyasi, one of the nobles
of Sher Shah. It predates the Humayun’s Tomb, built in 1547
during the noble’s lifetime. Until the early 20th century, an
entire village was settled within the enclosure.
To the right is another archway leading to what is known
as the Arab Serai (Serai means Rest House). It was built in
1560-61 by Hamida Banu Begum for either the 300 Arabs
she brought back with her from Mecca, or Persian artisans
working on the tomb. Travellers on the Grand Trunk Road
later used it for night halts. In another version, it was known
as Jahangir Mandi (meaning market place); the recesses were
used as stalls. The enclosure has many unmarked graves too.
The tomb is a solemn place, but Humayun’s life was far from
it. Humayun has been described by some historians as a bit of
a libertine who spent months on end feasting on wine, opium
and poetry, or playing dice on the ‘carpet of mirth’ in court.
He was known to be extremely superstitious, managing his
kingdom’s administration astrologically; he would always step
into a room left foot first.
If you want to follow in his footsteps, place the left foot first
when you enter the mausoleum. You may also pack a little
picnic ‘feast’ but don’t expect to be served by any courtesans.
Nor will you be allowed to consume any wine in public spaces.
A game of dice without gambling is fine, but opium is a no-no.
The sight of the monument is enough to give you a high.
17

The Mughal Dynasty
The Mughals came to power in India when Zahiruddin Muhammad, affectionately known as ‘Babur’, came from Central
Asia in 1526 and defeated Ibrahim Lodi in the first battle of Panipat. Subsequent lineage who ruled the empire went as:
Nasiruddin Humayun (1530-1540 and 1555-1556), Jalaluddin Muhammad Akbar --- also known as Akbar the Great --- (1556-
16050, Muhammad Salim Jahangir (1605-1627), Muhammad Shahjahan (1628-1658) and Muhammad Aurangzeb Bahadur
Alamgir (1658-1707). The rule of Aurangzeb is known as the beginning of the end of Mughal rule – all subsequent rulers only
brought upon further decline till the British took over.
Restoring the past
Between 2000 and 2003, The Aga Khan Trust for Culture funded and collaborated with the Archaeological Survey of India
(ASI) in implementing a project to revitalize the 30 acre garden surrounding the Humayun’s Tomb. This included repairs
of 3-km long water channels, restoring 3.5 km of pathway edging, removing earth in excess of 3,000 truckloads, handchiselling
4 km of sandstone, planting 2,500 plants favoured by the Mughals, restoring 25,000 sq metres of pathways and
introducing an exhaustive rainwater harvesting system. Besides this, other minor structures have been restored, historical
wells discovered and desilted and wheelchair access and a site interpretation centre provided.
Additional Facts about the Tomb
• The mausoleum stands on a platform of 12,000 sq metres and reaches a height of 47 metres.
• The tomb within it has over 100 graves earning it the nickname ‘Dormitory of the Mughals.’
• Built of rubble masonry, it is the first structure in the country to use such high quantities of red sandstone and marble.
• The small canopies on the terrace were initially covered with glazed blue tiles.
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A Walk Down Mehrauli Village
In the beginning Delhi was Mehrauli. When new cities like
Jahanpanah, Siri and other subsequent ones came up, this
became the old city. When Shahjahanabad was built, that
was the new Delhi and Mehrauli was not even regarded a
part of Delhi – it was like another town or village that people
‘travelled’ to. And when today’s central Delhi and later south
Delhi were developed, Shahjahanabad became old Delhi and
Mehrauli again became a part of New Delhi.
Are you confused?
A walk in the village takes you back centuries, where residents
live like they would in an urban village – with parts being
taken over for some of the finest restaurants and boutiques
in the city. While the latter may be well known, a peek into
the lesser known historical remains is highly recommended.
Adham Khan’s Tomb or Bhoolbhulaiyan
Adham Khan was a favoured noble of Mughal Emperor
Akbar, and son of his foster mother Maham Anaga.
Adham Khan committed the folly of murdering another of
Akbar’s favourites, Atgah Khan, and was awarded the death
penalty. This tomb was built in Adham Khan’s memory by
his mother. It is by far the largest structure in the village,
Adham Khan’s Tomb or Bhoolbhulaiyana
and cannot be missed opposite the bus terminal. It is also
known as Bhoolbhulaiyan because of a maze on its upper
corridor along the dome – it is supposedly easy to get lost
in it. Unfortunately, it is now closed to visitors. According
to the ASI caretaker, there is a tunnel running from here all
the way to Agra!
19

Gandhak ki Baoli
Turn left into the narrow lane leading to the bazaars
of Mehrauli, and you will come to a step-well called
Gandhak ki Baoli. It is said to have been built during the
reign of Iltutmish. Five storeys deep, it got its name from
the strong smell (gandh) of sulphur emanating from it.
Sadly enough, it has gone dry now.
Gandhak ki Baoli
Zafar Mahal – the mosque in the background is the
Shrine of Khwaja Qutubuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki. The royal
graves in the palace are in a marble enclosure –with a
vacant spot for the grave of Bahadur Shah Zafar II
Hijron ka Khanqah
This is one of the most interesting places in Mehrauli,
one many residents themselves are not aware of. It is a
graveyard for eunuchs (known as hijras). It is in the middle
of the Mehrauli bazaar, and you can easily miss its small
entrance. There are about 50 white graves, all of eunuchs,
one standing out from the rest. According to the caretaker
Naushad, this one is believed to be of the adopted sister
(not a eunuch) of Qutubuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki. Some
versions date this graveyard back to the Lodi period of the
15th century. No fresh burials are made here anymore. But
it has a western prayer wall, or Mehrab, that is used for
prayers on special occasions. The place is maintained by
Naushad and another caretaker; they take up odd jobs to
support themselves and rely on donations for the upkeep.
You can go anytime as long as one of the two is around;
they live within the compound.
Zafar Mahal
Much of a ruin, this was originally built by Akbar II who
reigned from 1806 to 1837 with major additions
by Bahadur Shah Zafar II, the last in the line of Mughal
emperors. The three storeyed building is crumbling, and
you can go up only because of reinforcements by the ASI.
But still be careful – you never know what might give way
sending you into nothingness below. A marble enclosure
within the complex has the graves of some Mughal
emperors like Bahadur Shah I (son of Aurangzeb, who ruled
from 1707 – 1712), Shah Alam (ruled from 1759-1806) and
Akbar Shah II (1806 – 1837). An empty space between the
graves of the first two has been earmarked for Bahadur
Shah II, who died in exile in Rangoon and rests in peace
there.
Hijron ka Khanqah
20

Jahaz Mahal
Jahaz Mahal
This pavilion is built on the banks of the Hauz-i-Shamsi,
or water reservoir. One is not sure of the origins, but it
may have been built around the 15th century in the Lodi
period. It could have served as a serai or a rest house for
travellers, or as a retreat for the later Mughal emperors.
It is also the venue of the annual Phoolwalon ki Sair, the
procession of florists held around October. The reservoir
itself may have been built around 1230 A.D. by Iltutmish.
Unfortunately, it requires cleaning up and a conservation
effort to restore it to its original pristine state. And a
commitment by residents not to throw garbage or wash
clothes in it. Across the road, through some slums is
another place called the Jharna meaning waterfall. It was
built within some Mughal Gardens around 1700, and water
from the reservoir would flow into it. This water would be
used to run fountains, and to further channelize it for use
of residents.
Mehrauli village is clearly a case of being a rich place going
to seed – but it is still worth the obstacle course created by
high density living and poor maintenance.
Shrine of Khwaja Qutubuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki
Many an emperor and other nobles preferred to be buried in the area as it was the khanqah or blessed area of the Sufi
saint and mystic, Qutubuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki, who came from Iran and died in 1235 A.D. His shrine adjoins the Zafar
Mahal, and is one of the more revered destinations for the devout.
21

Rajasthan
The Jaisalmer Fort
Jaisalmer
The city in the fort, and beyond
This is a city that has always lived in a fort -
and continues to do so even today. The fort may
be the main attraction, but Jaisalmer has much
more to offer on its platter.
22

First, the fort itself
It is tough to distinguish between the historical and the
present in the fort - time lies intertwined here. Built in
1156 by Bhati ruler Rawal Jaisal on the Trikuta Hill, it is also
known as Sonar Qila or Golden Fort because of the use of
yellow sandstone which takes on a honey-gold hue in the
setting sun. It has a perimeter of 5 kms (3 miles), rising
76 metres above the surrounding countryside and marked
by 99 bastions. Jaisalmer fell along an important ancient
trading route, doing business with Persia, Arabia, Egypt and
other African countries. With the rise of Bombay during
the British rule, all trade moved away leaving Jaisalmer
isolated. The economy is driven by tourism now.
Within the milieu / ramparts of the fort are beautiful
Jain temples, old havelis or mansions, a palace museum,
restaurants, hotels and shops. The Jain temples are
particularly noteworthy because of their fine carvings,
with each temple boasting its own unique design.
Atop the wall along the entrance gates, you will see
rounded stones which were meant to be thrown at
advancing enemies; this gives a feeling of war-readiness
even today. The central courtyard within the fort is called
Dusshera Chowk, and the royalty celebrated the Hindu
festival of Dusshera here till 1974 after which it was shifted
The Gadsisar Lake
outside the fort. Women would watch the proceedings
from behind the stone-meshed windows.
A visit to the palace and museum gives you an insight into
the times gone by. Most notable are the exhibits of arms
and the throne. You get beautiful views of the city and
beyond from the upper floors; a sun clock on the terrace
tells you the time if you know how to interpret the same.
The chambers used by the kings and queens give you a
peek into their personal lifestyles.
The fort with a view of the city beyond
21

Palace and museum building within the fort
A beautifully sculptured ceiling with the Jain temples
24

Beyond the Fort
Walk around town and you will see many havelis
(mansions), some going back centuries, built by rich
businessmen. Most continue to be inhabited but are
welcoming of visitors. Some of the better known ones are
Salimji ki Haveli, Patwon ki Haveli and Nathmalji ki Haveli;
these are best accessed by foot or on cycle rickshaws.
Two other spots not to be missed are the Vyas Chhatris and
the Gadsisar Lake. The latter was built by Maharaja Gadsi
Singh in 1367 to serve as a water reservoir for the entire
fort. Its banks are dotted with temples and shrines; it also
attracts migratory birds during the winters. Away from the
hustle and bustle of the town, it is a calm oasis where one
can spend hours - on the edge of the water or in a boat.
The Vyas Chhatris are the cenotaph of Sage Vyas who
wrote the Hindu epic Mahabharata. This is the place to go
for stunning views of the setting sun, and also to see the
Jaisalmer fort glow in the evening light.
The Gadsisar Lake
The Vyas Chhatris
The Jain Temples
Sun setting over the Vyas Chhatris
25

Kuldhara
Kuldhara was once a bustling town inhabited by the Paliwal
Brahmins, a rich business and agricultural community
since 1291 A.D. And then suddenly, one night in 1825, all
the residents of Kuldhara and 83 nearby villages vanished
into the dark. Lock, stock and barrel, leaving their houses
behind - an architectural wonder worth visiting.
Read about Kuldhara in the August 2011 issue of the
Kunzum Travel Mag. Download the same at http://kunzum.
com/docs/kunzum-mag-aug11.pdf
A view of the village
Setting sun over the Sam Dunes
Sam Dunes
These come highly recommended but don’t go with very
great expectations lest you come back disappointed. The
Sam (pronounced ‘some’) Dunes, located 45 kilometers
(28 miles) from Jaisalmer, do not live up to the imagery of
the Arabian or Saharan deserts, but make for an enjoyable
evening out. A one-hour long camel safari starts at the
parking lot, but ends within 10 minutes - the rest of the
time is to be spent on the dunes enjoying the views of the
beautiful sunsets and getting yourself entertained by local
artists. You can go for a short visit, or stay at the dozens of
camps along the road to Sam.
26

Food
If in Rajasthan, food can never be out of the mind. As
usual, I was out looking for traditional cuisine - eventually
got some authentic stuff at an eatery outside the fort. A
family run place, they cooked in the kitchen and served in
the modified living room. When I requested to go easy on
the pure oil at its fatty best (baati or flour dumpling eaten
as a bread are usually served after soaking them in oil) the
grandfather got upset over the very idea! Sorry grandpa,
cannot roam around with an oily belly!
The Bhatia Market is so named as most shopkeepers come
with the family name Bhatia. I ordered Indian sweets at
Dhanaraj Ranmal Bhatia - the proprietor is the seventh
generation running this business. Wow! They serve
common sweets like petha, kalakand, peda, different
kinds of ladoos including some they claim as their own
recipes: Ghotua (made from besan, mawa and kesar) and
Panchdhari (made from moong daal, mawa, maida, pure
oil and sugar). Delicious and fatty!
Samosas for sale at Dhanaraj Ranmal Bhatia eatery
High on Bhaang in Rajasthan,
without being a nuisance
When in Jaisalmer, do pay a visit to Doctor Bhaang. For a
different kind of a high.
Everyone knows where to find his ‘clinic.’ Prepared from
the leaves and buds of the female cannabis plant, Bhaang
can be taken in many different ways. It is commonly added
to drinks like Thandai, or snacks like pakoras and Indian
sweets and is consumed during festive occasions especially
on Holi. Addicts take these in the form of a paste rolled
into the shape of a ball.
The Government auctions rights to set up vends to sell
Bhaang. Doctor Bhaang, real name Chander Prakash Vyas
but known popularly as Babu, is the third generation of
a family holding these rights since the early 1970s. You
can have Bhaang in many forms at his shop: in chocolates,
cookies, sweets, buttermilk and juices. The dosage comes
in ‘baby’ and strong portions; the former is for those just
starting out. Or for Japanese and Koreans because they
have small eyes, and they will not return if they can’t
handle it says the ‘doctor.’
Doctor Bhang (in front), real name Chander Prakash
Vyas, with his father in the background
Does Bhaang have any merits too? Oh yes, says my host.
In his own words: “It has full power, no shower, no toilet
for 24 hours. It is best for long journeys, desert tours and
27

camel safaris; instead of bobbing up and down, a camel
ride will feel like a flying carpet. It elevates moods, even
causing mild euphoria. Itstimulates the appetite, and even
serves as a mild aphrodisiac.” Babu’s doped out grandfather
looked only middle aged, Bhaang being the secret of his
‘youth’ - he has not been to a doctor for 45 years. Bhaang
could put apples out of favour.
Babu’s warning: Avoid Bhaang in places like Varanasi and
Pushkar where it is adulterated with Dhatura, a kind of LSD,
and can cause blindness. Babu does not sell raw Bhaang,
but Girdhari Lal in Bikaner readily does: 100 grams powder
for Rs. 100 (US$ 2) or as a moist, rolled up ball for Rs. 10.
I saw a local popping a few of the latter with water. Don’t
such people become a public nuisance? No, said Girdhari
Lal. On the contrary, Bhaang calms the mind and makes it
stable. It helps focus, reason why manylawyers and judges
consume this regularly. It is effective if you want to sit for
hours meditating to Lord Shiva. Unlike someone under
the influence of alcohol, a high on Bhaang means you will
sit peacefully in one corner and not wake up in a drain.
Bhaang is cool to have; after all, it has the ‘blessings’ of
Bhole Shankar, or Lord Shiva, as many a ‘high’ sadhus in
holy cities will testify.
Girdhari Lal’s mortar stone with its
depression after 50 years of use
Washing the Bhang down with water
Jaislamer: Travel Tips
• Weather: Mild winters and very hot summers.
• Best time to go: October to February.
• Best Reached: By road. Or take a flight to Jodhpur and by road from there.
• Recommended Stay: At least 2 days.
• Combine trip with: Bikaner and Jodhpur
28

Thailand
A dragon signifying Thai-Chinese friendship during the Loi Krathong Festival
A Festival of Lanterns, Lights and Floats in Chiang Mai
If you are in love, or want to make any wishes for your future life,
head to Chiang Mai a few days before the full moon night of the 12th
lunar month - usually falling in November. And participate in one
of the most beautiful of festivals of lanterns, lights and floats.
The Yi Peng festival is usually a four day affair, starting two
days before the full moon night. With many more days
of events and festivities. These are days when the whole
town is decorated with lanterns, lights, flowers and other
decorations. Schedules and events vary every year, but the
first day is usually marked with a lantern and floats contest
parade going through the old city from Thapae Gate to the
Pantip Plaza.
The skies come alive with hundreds and thousands of hot
air balloons going into the sky. Called khome loy, these
are usually made of saa paper (hand-made from mulberry
tree). Its light texture lends itself to going up easily with
the hot air generated from an oil lamp lit at its base. For
the romantic at heart, it is a time to promise a life of
happiness with their loved ones. Others make personal
wishes, see it as their troubles floating away into the skies
or connecting with the Buddha and seeking His blessings.
Of course, come morning, and you will see these deflated
balloons all over town.
The festival is also marked by music performances, theatre,
beauty pageants, fireworks and lantern and balloon
exhibitions. You will see lantern decorations and gigantic
lit installations all over town.
The full moon night is marked by the Loi Krathong festival.
On this day, people in Chiang Mai gather along the Ping
river to release Krathongs into the water. A Krathong is a
small vessel made of a folded banana leaf attached to a
slice of banana stalk. These are decorated with flowers,
candles and joss sticks - releasing these in the water means
you let your troubles float away. Loi means ‘to drift.’ Those
in love reaffirm their feelings to one another. It can be
29

quite a sight seeing thousands of these bringing the river
alive in a different way. This festival is also celebrated in
other regions of Thailand.
These festivals have been celebrated for time immemorial,
with different theories about their history. These may have
originated from Buddhist festivities in the past, or inspired
from the Hindu festival of lights, Diwali. In both cases, the
linkages to India are strong, where both these religions
originated.
Head to Chiang Mai anytime, but especially so during
these festivals. Plan in advance - hotels and flights can be a
problem with the rush of visitors.
Hot air lanters
(Khome Loy)
being released in
Chiang Mai
Fire dancer
during a parade
during the Yi
Peng festival

A float during a
parade
during the
Yi Peng festival
in
Chiang Mai
Dancer at a
parade
during the
Yi Peng festival
A couple in a
parade during the
Yi Peng festival

Dancers at a
parade during the
Yi Peng festival
Dancers at a
parade during the
Yi Peng festival
Image from a parade during
the Yi Peng festival

Decorations in Chiang Mai
during the Loi Krathong
Festival . The statue of 4 lions
is depicted from the Ashoka
Pillars from India
A couple in a parade during
the Yi Peng festival

Decorations in
Chiang Mai during
the Loi Krathong
festival
Metro: Qutab Minar
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Decide your own route, or take one of our
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But we all need mentors to make it happen. The Kunzum Media Lab can play that
role. With our unique approach to teaching you the art of photography.
And we don’t stop at just teaching you to be a good photographer. We show you
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Camp Pinewood Trails is set in the heart of
Himachal Pradesh and 30 minutes drive from a
small town Kandaghat on the Chail Road, Camp
Pinewood Trails is surrounded by lush cedar
forests. It offers unlimited options for hikes
along meandering hilly trek routes. A short trek
above the camp is yet another rejuvenating
experience with magnificent views to greet
you. Softer options are a quiet relaxing stroll
around the campsite and cosy naps under the
sun. Whatever you choose its bound to be
memorable and invigorating.
Location: Situated in the valley at Sadhupul, 12
kms away from Kandaghat on the Kandaghat-
Chail road, 17 kms before Chail in Himachal
Pradesh. Its well laid-out, safe, healthy and
easily accessible.
• AccommodAtion And fAcilities:
We have a Cluster of Fifteen 12’ x 12’ size, sturdy
tents with ground bedding and sleeping bags,
Bathing/washing and toilet facilities (Western),
and an open dining space.
Activities:
• Adventure Activities: Rappelling, Commando
Net, Burma Bridge, Flying Fox, Tyrolean
Traverse, Bridge slithering, Double rope bridge.
• Games: Volleyball, Badminton, Carom, and
Chess.
• trekking
• Bird watching
• Bonfire with loads of games, singing and
interactive fun.
Address: 110, Aamrpali Apartments, Plot no-56, I.P. Extension, Patpar Ganj, Delhi -110092
Mobile: 9811213026/9873411989
Email: jeffrey@pinewoodtrails.com, alex@pinewoodtrails.com
Website: http://pinewoodtrails.com/contactus.html

A Division of AsiAn ADventures
T: +91-11-44128785, M: +91-9811704651, E: wildindiatours@vsnl.com, W: www.asianadventures.net

We travel.
And come back with stories and images.
And we put all these great holiday ideas as the
t r a v e l l i s t
t r a v e l l i s t
ajay jain
1-25
t r a v e l l i s t
ajay jain
1-25
t r a v e l l i s t
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t r a v e l l i s t
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The Kunzum Travel List is a compilation of great holiday ideas for you to choose
from. From all across India, Nepal and the rest of the subcontinent. Holidays
you will cherish, and remember for a lifetime. Something you will share with
others and evoke envy - prompting friends to ask you more so they too can
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42

HOTEL REVIEW
River Tern Lodge,
Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, Karnataka
When Government owned enterprises set up hotels, they
usually take up the best spots for themselves. And usually
go on to make a mess of it. Not Jungle Lodges, with their
property River Tern Lodge at the Bhadra Tiger Reserve and
Wildlife Sanctuary in Karnataka.
The setting first: you will rarely see a better one. Located in
the Chikmagalur district, all coffee country, you are also in
wild country. The cottages in the lodge are all perched on
the edges of hills, overlooking the Bhadra reservoir in the
river by the same name. The lodge gets its name from the
thousands of River Tern birds who congregate on an island
in the river during season. Along with many other birds,
they add to the landscape with the water body, forests
and the Babubudangiri mountain range stretching into the
horizon.
Other than the crackling of birds, the only sounds to be
heard are those of thunder and rain - the intensity varying
with the time of the year. You can sit in your balcony for
hours, or even days, on end - the setting is no less than
mesmerizing. This is where you can compose songs, write
books, paint, photograph - your creative juices will flow
even if you are not an expert. And you will want to reflect
upon life, and naturally feel uplifted.
The sanctuary is home to elephants, tigers, leopards, wild
dogs, palm civet, stripe-necked mongoose, sloth bear,
sambar, spotted deer and other animals. Jungle and river
safaris are a part of the package when you book. Other
activities include sailing, kayaking, water cycle, water
trampoline and water see-saw. The property has 24
cottages, all well maintained and furnished. Meals, both
southern and northern Indian cuisines, are served in a
semi-open rounded gazebo - the chef does a good job on
the whole.
Check in, and forget the world beyond.
41

42

Contact
Jungle Lodges & Resorts Ltd.,
Ground Floor, West Entrance,
Khanija Bhavan, Race Course
Road, Bangalore-560 001
Tel: +91.80.40554055
Web: http://junglelodges.com
43

HOTEL REVIEW
Shaam-e-Sarhad Village Resort,
Hodka, Gujarat
If you want to explore the Rann of Kutch region, you are
best advised to stay in Hodka village. At the Shaam-e-
Sarhad (Sunset at the Border) Village Resort, located in the
middle of a quiet desert country.
Owned and managed by the local residents of Hodka, it is
a charming place where you can actually get a feel of much
of what is authentically traditional in the region. Designed
in local mud architectural style, and exquisitely handcrafted
with mirror work, textiles and other local crafts,
the resort is the perfect gateway to the rich and diverse
heritage of the region.
The experience of staying in Kachchhi mud huts, called
bhungas, with mud walls, mud floor, a mud bed and a
sloping thatch roof is tough to match. Bhungas are circular
in design, with lounge chairs in private open spaces.
There are options of tents too. Rooms are all en-suite,
comfortable, clean and simple.
Sit by a bonfire at night, with the sky in full starry glow,
and listen to Kachchhi folk music rendered in reedy voices
- and your soul will feel it has been touched by magic. The
hospitality by locals comes from their hearts; the hosts are
ever smiling and welcoming. Meals include a Kachchhi
buffet dinner of bajara ni roti with ghee and gud, followed
by Khichdi-kadhi besides other dishes. Gujarati cuisine is
also served for lunch and dinner. Breakfast in Indian or
Continental. Only vegetarian food is served, and Gujarat
enforces a policy of alcohol prohibition.
Hodka serves a great base for exploring the villages and
windswept lands of northern Kachchh. Local bhomiyas
(guides) will take you around the Hodka artists village,
introduce you to residents and acquaint you with their
way of living, crafts and traditions. Their crafts include
embroideries, leather works, lacquer work , weaving
and block printing. You can also sign up for workshops in
embroidery and leather work.
44

Check out the region’s animals and birds including
flamingos, pelicans, nilgai, foxes, wild ass (rarely) and the
evasive leopard. You can go for a bird watching excursion
to the wetlands of Chhari Dhandh, or plan a day trip to
Dholavira, India’s largest archaeological site belonging to
the renowned Indus Valley (Harappan) Civilization. Visit
the impressive Lakhpat fort, an important trading port at
one time. Take a dip in the Narayan Sarovar, one of the
five holiest lakes for Hindus. Just a mile further from here
is Koteshwar, the western most motorable point of India
on the Arabian sea. In the evening, go to Kala Dungar to
witness the daily ritual of offering sweetened rice to foxes.
And do take time out to do nothing at the resort.
Travel Tips
• Resort is open only from October to March.
• Getting there: Nearest railhead and airport is at Bhuj, 65 kms (40 miles) away
• Website: http://hodka.in
• Email: hodka.in@gmail.com
• Tel: +91.9099908049, +91.2803.296222
• Tariffs: Rs. 2,800 - 4,800
• Address: Shaam-e-Sarhad Village Resort, Endogenous Tourism Project, Hodka Village, Banni, Bhuj (Kachchh), Gujarat 370 510
• Office in Bhuj: Shaam E Sarhad Village Resort, c/o Q A S A B, 173/5-B, “SATYAM SHIVAM SUNDARAM”, Jalaram Society, Hospital
Road, Bhuj (Kachchh), Gujarat, 370 001
45

kunzum Travel Pix
We start a new series this month where we post some interesting
snapshots from our travels. Enjoy!
1
kunzum.com
by Ajay Jain
Buyers and sellers negotiating at the early morning vegetables and fruits market
in the Dal Lake in Srinagar, Kashmir in India. This daily market seems to have been
around forever.
2
kunzum.com
by Ajay Jain
The Matheran Toy Train has been in service since March 22, 1907 and runs from Neral in the
foothills of the Western Ghats in Maharashtra in India to the popular hill town of Matheran,
located at 803.45 metres (2,636 feet).The 20 kms (12.4 miles) journey takes about two hours.

3
kunzum.com
by Ajay Jain
If you are in Jodhpur in Rajasthan, India , you must have the Mirchi Vadas - big green chilies
dipped in gram flour and deep fried. Order at ‘Shahi Samosa’ shop near the Clock Tower; also try
their samosas, bread pakoras, badi pyaza ki kachor and mogar ki kachori.
4
kunzum.com
by Ajay Jain
A hidden wonder of India: The Kiramchi temples, 8 kms (5 miles) from Udhampur in the
state of Jammu and Kashmir in India. The temples are believed to have been built in the
8th-9th centuries A.D.

5
kunzum.com
by Ajay Jain
Komic near Kaza in Lahaul Spiti, Himachal Pradesh in India is probably the highest village
in the world at 4,587 metres (15,049 feet). And its Buddhist monastery hosts an annual
festival around October, and is a not-to-be-missed gem of an event.
6
kunzum.com
by Ajay Jain
A 3-year old Tiger cub cooling off in a water pool in Ranthambhore National Park in
Rajasthan, India. His mother and sibling are off to hunt for food; he can’t hunt yet. The
best time to go Tiger spotting is during peak summers.

Viswaprasad Raju is a Hyderabad-based advertising professional, and is also a random sketchcrawler, a weekly cartoonist and an occasional
travel writer. He collects cheap souvenirs like coasters and dreams of expensive holiday breaks to a National Park (any state) or anywhere in
Europe (any country). Presently he is working on a screenplay for a feature film.
Connect with him at viswaprasadraju@gmail.com or find him at
http://facebook.com/viswaprasadraju and http://hyderabadadvtg.blogspot.com.

BOOK REVIEW
INTO
THIN AIR
The book that exposed Mount Everest
By Nimish Dubey
For most people, ascending Mount
Everest, the tallest mountain on earth,
remains the ultimate travel fantasy. For
years, Everest had been most travellers’
holy grail, notwithstanding the risks
involved (many people died in their
attempts to conquer the peak). A major
accident in May 1996 that claimed the
lives of eight climbers did shock many but
was initially considered part of the hazard
of climbing. Until Jon Krakauer’s Into Thin
Air hit the stands later that year.By far the
highest selling book on mountaineering,
Into Thin Air blew the top off the
mountaineering guide business, showing
how trained mountaineers acted as
“guides” to take totally inexperienced
people on to the top of the world. For a
massive fee, of course.
The problem with this arrangement was
that the guides sometimes actually put
money before safety in an attempt to
ensure that more “clients” reached the
peak. And that is exactly what happened
on May 10, 1996, when a number of
climbing teams were trying to ascend
Everest on the same day. Two of these
were headed by a couple of the most
experienced moutaineers in the world,
Scott Fischer and Rob Hall. Krakauer
himself was part of one of those teams,
covering the climb for Outside magazine.
As schedules clashed, teams chose to
ignore warnings about the weather,
focussing instead on getting to the peak
and getting photographed there. Little
did they know many would not return. A
fierce storm hit Everest even as the teams
were on their way down and as most
of the climbers were not experienced,
panic set in. Fischer and Hall tried to get
a grip on matters but were helpless in a
zone where there was nothing one could
against the fury of nature, in conditions of
near zero visibility, sub zero temperatures
and winds that literally blew people off
the mountain. By the time things cleared,
there were no fewer than eight climbers
dead and one missing. Among the dead
were Fischer and Hall – team leaders who
had paid the ultimate price for putting
their clients’ interests above safety.
All this in itself would have been enough
to make a gripping work, but Krakauer
makes it even better with his narrative
skills. One of the problems with books
about mountains has been the fact that
they have been written by people who
are better at wielding ice axes than
pens. The prose has inevitably suffered
as a consequence – even Sir Edmund
Hillary’s account of conquering Everest
for the first time is a relatively tame read,
exciting only for the event it covers rather
than the narration. Krakauer, however,
is a different kettle of fish, being a
thoroughbred journalist in his own right.
And it shows. You actually feel the chill
seep into your veins as he describes
conditions on the mountain and I defy you
to stop reading his account of when the
storm hits the stranded mountaineers,
many of whom are shocked at seeing
their all expenses paid trip to Everest
turn into a funeral march. This is no
objective, cold analysis of a tragic event
by a bystander but a full blooded account
of what happened on one of the saddest
days in mountaineering history, by a
person who saw it all unfold in front of
his horrified eyes.
The last moments of Fischer and Hall,
the valiant attempts of the sherpas to
save people, the controversial efforts
of Anatoli Boukreev (whom Krakauer
criticised so much that he himself wrote
a book on the entire episode – yes, we
will review that one too), the miraculous
escape of Beck Weathers who had
actually been left for dead but managed
to make it back to safety somehow – all
form an integral of what I must confess
has got to be one of the travel classics of
our time, right alongside Apsley Cherry-
Garrard’s The Worst Journey in the World.
Buy it. Read it. Everest will no longer have
the same appeal for you again.
It may be the highest mountain in the
world. It is also the world’s highest
graveyard.
50

PHEW!
Finally a place for travellers to meet.
In the real world - not on social media.
To simply bum around. Exchange travel stories. Make travel plans.
Read up & buy travel books. Post travelogues, images & videos. pick up
photographic art. Even write books.
Over coffee and cookies. And free Wi-Fi. Only at the
T r a v e l C a f e
address: T-49, GF, Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi 110 016, India
telephone: +91.11.2651 3949 | +91.9650 702 777 |
website: http://kunzum.com/travelcafe | mail@kunzum.com
Open Tuesday - Sunday, 11:00 a.m. - 7:30 p.m. (Mondays Closed)
53

T r a v e l C a f e
When travellers come calling at the Kunzum Travel Cafe, they often leave a note
behind for us. Here are some from the wall. Come over for coffee, and write one too.

The Handwritten Travelogue
We love to hear travel stories from our guests when they visit the Kunzum Travel Cafe
in New Delhi. Better still, we like them to write the same in our scrapbook for others to
read - like what you see here. Do you have one to share too? We are waiting...

The stunning Common Rosefinch (Carpodacus erythrinus) is a breeding visitor to Sikkim and
Arunachal Pradesh and can be seen on mulberry trees © Rajat Bhargava/WWF-india
You don’t like ugly paan stains; neither does nature
The Green Hiker Campaign is a part of WWF's initiative to conserve Himalayan high altitude
wetlands. The Ministry of Tourism, Government of India is a partner to the campaign.
greenhiker@wwfindia.net www.wwfindia.org/greenhiker

PEEP PEEP DON’T SLEEP
A book on funny road signs and advertisements with captions
and commentary by Ajay Jain
If you thought road signs are only meant to guide and inform, think again.
The ones on Indian highways are in a zone of their own. They shower you with words of wisdom,
keep your mind sharp as you unravel their cryptic messages, tickle your imagination, amuse you and
entertain you. In public interest, they lend a hand to Alcoholics Anonymous. Since journeys are meant
to be a pleasure, they remind you to ‘Smile Please.’
The entertainment for the traveler does not stop at this. There are the limitless public notices, outdoor
advertisements and storefront signs with their own idiosyncrasies and eccentricities. Who needs comic
strips in this country?
Ajay Jain drove thousands of miles to put together this collection of signs. With a bit of witty commentary
thrown in, this book will be a journey unlike any other you may have undertaken. Resulting in you
letting out a ‘Peep Peep’ of delight.
For more on the book, sample chapters and to order visit
www.peeppeepdontsleep.com
Available as a Paperback, as a PDF and for the iPad and Kindle
36

Postcards from Ladakh
A Pictorial Travelogue by Ajay Jain
Postcards from Ladakh is a collection of frames - picture postcards, if you will
- frozen circa 2009, when the author drove for over 10,000 kms (6,000 miles)
across the remote and fascinating region of Ladakh in the Indian Himalayas.
Neither guidebook nor encyclopedia, it is intended to give you a flavour of this
high altitude cold desert.
You will also meet a few Ladakhis in these pages. And see the land they live in, the
faith they live by, the hope they live on…Each of them will spontaneously greet
you with a cheerful Julley and invite you to be part of their culture and society.
No Ladakhi is a stranger. We just haven’t had the time to meet them all...
For more on the book, sample chapters and to order visit
www.kunzum.com/postcardsfromladakh
Available as a Paperback, as a PDF and for the iPad and Kindle

A picture may be worth a thousand words
But the Kunzum PhotoTalkies are a journey in themselves
What are PhotoTalkies?
Simply put, these are photo essays - only
packing a bigger punch . With more images and
supporting text than an essay you would see in
a newspaper or a magazine. Current versions
have been designed as a PDF - to be viewed on
any device supporting this format. But it is best
seen on an iPad.
And these are all FREE! Looks like it is the season of
freebies from Kunzum.
http://kunzum.com/phototalkies

Since 2007, Kunzum has served as an important guide for travellers planning journeys
in India and the subcontinent - and some international destinations too.
INTRODUCTIONS FIRST…
Kunzum is a high altitude pass in the Lahaul Spiti region of Himachal Pradesh in India.
And the inspiration behind the brand that is all about memorable travel experiences.
Our journey started in 2007 as a travel blog by writer and photographer, Ajay Jain. And
we have crossed many milestones - literally and figuratively - since then.
KUNZUM.COM
An independent, objective and one of the most trusted online travel information websites
in India. A unique style of writing, peppered with anecdotes and illustrated with high
quality photographs and videos, have won the site a fan following of tens of thousands of
travellers. More at http://kunzum.com.
THE KUNZUM TRAVEL MAG
A u n i q u e p r o d u c t , i t i s a m o n t h l y e - m a g a v a i l a b l e a s a P D F, f o r t h e i P a d a n d
K i n d l e , a n d f o r o n l i n e r e a d i n g w i t h f l i p p i n g p a g e s o n I s s u u . c o m . S u b s c r i p t i o n i s
F R E E a t h t t p : / / k u n z u m . c o m / m a g .
PUBLISHING
We p u b l i s h e n g a g i n g a n d q u a l i t y t r a v e l b o o k s a n d g u i d e s i n b o t h t r a d i t i o n a l
f o r m a t s a s w e l l a s e - b o o k s ( f o r t h e i P a d , A m a z o n ’s K i n d l e , o t h e r m o b i l e r e a d e r s
a n d a l l c o m p u t e r s ) . M o r e a t h t t p : / / k u n z u m . c o m / b o o k s .
CURATOR OF COLLECTIBLE PHOTOGRAPHIC ART
Available for your walls at home, office or resort and also as stock imagery
for publishing and promotional materials. All printed on archival paper to last
generations. The prints are also on display at the Kunzum Travel Café. Check the
collection at http://kunzumgallery.com.
KUNZUM TRAVEL CAFÉ
Another unique offering from Kunzum - a bricks and mortar place for the travel-minded to
come together as a community, a sort of Face-to-Facebook network. Located in Hauz Khas
Village in New Delhi, guests can hang around, read travel books, use free Wi-Fi, participate
in events, exchange stories, enjoy music, buy photographic art, post travelogues and make
travel plans. They can even order tea, coffee and cookies - and pay what they like. More at
http://kunzum.com/travelcafe.
CONTACT US
Ajay Jain | ajay@ajayjain.com | +91.99100 44476
Shruti Sharma | shruti@kunzum.com | +91.98119 84545
LINKS
Online
http://kunzum.com
F a c e b o o k
h t t p : / / f a c e b o o k . c o m / k u n z u m
T w i t t e r
h t t p : / / t w i t t e r . c o m / k u n z u m
Y o u T u b e
h t t p : / / y o u t u b e . c o m / k u n z u m
V i m e o
h t t p : / / v i m e o . c o m / k u n z u m

ABOUT AJAY JAIN
Ajay Jain is a full time writer, journalist
and photographer based in New Delhi in
India. He is not limited in his medium of
expression, equally comfortable writing for
newspapers and magazines, as well as his
own books and blogs.
Starting his writing career in 2001, he has
been covering business, technology and
youth affairs before deciding to focus wholly
on travel writing. He pursues his passion by
being on the road as much as he can.
He has written three books, the latest
being Postcards from Ladakh (http://www.
kunzum.com/postcardsfromladakh), a
pictorial travelogue on Ladakh. His first,
Let’s Connect: Using LinkedIn to Get
Ahead at Work, is a management book on
professional networking using the world’s
most popular professional networking site
LinkedIn.com. It was published in early
2008. His other book, and his first travel
book, Peep Peep Don’t Sleep (http://www.
peeppeepdontsleep.com), is a collection of
funny road signs and advertisements.
Contact
Email: ajay@ajayjain.com
Mobile: +91.99100 44476
LINKS
Facebook
http://facebook.com/ajayjain9
T witter
http://twitter.com/ajayjain
LinkedIn
http://www.linkedin.com/in/
ajayjain9
H e h a s w o r k e d f o r a n d w r i t t e n c o l u m n s
f o r n a t i o n a l p u b l i c a t i o n s i n I n d i a
i n c l u d i n g T h e H i n d u s t a n T i m e s , M i n t ,
Fi n a n c i a l E x p r e s s , I n d i a n M a n a g e m e n t
( B u s i n e s s S t a n d a r d ) , O u t l o o k B u s i n e s s ,
D e c c a n H e r a l d , M u m b a i M i r r o r ( T i m e s
o f I n d i a ) , D i s c o v e r I n d i a , S w a g a t , A s i a n
A g e a n d R e d i f f. c o m . H e h a s a l s o e d i t e d a
y o u t h n e w s p a p e r, T h e C a m p u s Pa p e r.
Pr i o r t o t a k i n g u p w r i t i n g, h e h a s w o r k e d
i n t h e I n f o r m a t i o n Te c h n o l o g y a n d S p o r t s
M a n a g e m e n t s e c t o r s . H e h o l d s d e g r e e s
M e c h a n i c a l E n g i n e e r i n g ( D e l h i C o l l e g e
o f E n g i n e e r i n g, 1 9 9 2 ) , M a n a g e m e n t
( Fo r e S c h o o l o f M a n a g e m e n t , 1 9 9 4 ) a n d
J o u r n a l i s m ( C a r d i f f U n i v e r s i t y, U K , 2 0 0 2 ) .
H i s s c h o o l i n g w a s a t S t . C o l u m b a’s S c h o o l
i n N e w D e l h i .