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First, the fort itself<br />

It is tough to distinguish between the historical and the<br />

present in the fort - time lies intertwined here. Built in<br />

1156 by Bhati ruler Rawal Jaisal on the Trikuta Hill, it is also<br />

known as Sonar Qila or Golden Fort because of the use of<br />

yellow sandstone which takes on a honey-gold hue in the<br />

setting sun. It has a perimeter of 5 kms (3 miles), rising<br />

76 metres above the surrounding countryside and marked<br />

by 99 bastions. Jaisalmer fell along an important ancient<br />

trading route, doing business with Persia, Arabia, Egypt and<br />

other African countries. With the rise of Bombay during<br />

the British rule, all trade moved away leaving Jaisalmer<br />

isolated. The economy is driven by tourism now.<br />

Within the milieu / ramparts of the fort are beautiful<br />

Jain temples, old havelis or mansions, a palace museum,<br />

restaurants, hotels and shops. The Jain temples are<br />

particularly noteworthy because of their fine carvings,<br />

with each temple boasting its own unique design.<br />

Atop the wall along the entrance gates, you will see<br />

rounded stones which were meant to be thrown at<br />

advancing enemies; this gives a feeling of war-readiness<br />

even today. The central courtyard within the fort is called<br />

Dusshera Chowk, and the royalty celebrated the Hindu<br />

festival of Dusshera here till 1974 after which it was shifted<br />

The Gadsisar Lake<br />

outside the fort. Women would watch the proceedings<br />

from behind the stone-meshed windows.<br />

A visit to the palace and museum gives you an insight into<br />

the times gone by. Most notable are the exhibits of arms<br />

and the throne. You get beautiful views of the city and<br />

beyond from the upper floors; a sun clock on the terrace<br />

tells you the time if you know how to interpret the same.<br />

The chambers used by the kings and queens give you a<br />

peek into their personal lifestyles.<br />

The fort with a view of the city beyond<br />

21

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