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Time to plant<br />

By Jonathan van Wiltenburg<br />

Wiggling currants!<br />

Over the past year I have had people<br />

asking about a particular nasty little<br />

pest that affects their currant shrubs year<br />

after year. The common complaint is a<br />

small rice sized maggot found squirming<br />

around in the berry. It is quite gross,<br />

and usually renders the berries fit for the<br />

birds.<br />

I thought I would get to the bottom of<br />

it and give some solutions to combat this<br />

particular pest.<br />

The pest is a little yellow fly (Euphranta<br />

canadensis) commonly known as the<br />

currant fruit fly. It infects currants (red,<br />

black, or white) and also gooseberries<br />

and is found throughout North America.<br />

The fly itself is about the size of a small<br />

housefly and it lays a single egg under<br />

the skin of a developing berry. The bad<br />

news for us is that each female can lay<br />

over 150 eggs, and each egg is deposited<br />

on its own single berry. However, not<br />

Priorities for April<br />

• April is the time for lawn maintenance.<br />

Take advantage of the moist spring weather<br />

and get all the seeding, aerating, or topdressing<br />

finished before the sun is here.<br />

• If you have not already done so, begin<br />

turning over the garden. Mix in your old<br />

compost from last year. Try not to compact<br />

the newly turned over soil. Amend further<br />

with lime, manure, or mulch if necessary.<br />

• Spilt up and move your perennials.<br />

• Feed your fruit trees, berries, and other<br />

trees and shrubs. Don’t go overboard. Be<br />

sure to use an appropriate fertilizer for the<br />

particular species. Use compost or an organic<br />

fertilizer if you can manage it.<br />

• In you have not done so, prune back your<br />

and hydrangeas, buddleja, fuchsia, Russian<br />

sage, and other plants that flower on present<br />

year wood. Also prune the shrubs that have<br />

already finished flowering; winter jasmine,<br />

forsythia, witch-hazel, kerria, heather, etc.<br />

• Set out your cleaned mason bee houses<br />

all of the injected eggs<br />

will survive. Many of<br />

the berries will drop<br />

prematurely due to<br />

the injection by the female.<br />

As the fly larvae<br />

mature they will drill<br />

a small breathing hole<br />

into the skin of the<br />

fruit. This is the signature<br />

that will tell<br />

you have a problem.<br />

(Look for a small dark<br />

spot on the skin of the<br />

berry). Once fully mature, the larvae<br />

leave the berry and fall to the ground<br />

(sometimes the whole berry falls to the<br />

ground instead), where they bury themselves<br />

into the soil around the base of<br />

the currant bush. Here they overwinter<br />

as pupae until the following spring<br />

ASAP. Keep an eye out for the hard little<br />

workers as they pollinate your fruit trees<br />

and berries.<br />

• Sow your vegetable and flower seed. Vegetables<br />

such as greens and others you want<br />

to eat all season long sow a little bit of seed<br />

more often. Aim for every three weeks.<br />

Sow other crops such as squash, lettuce,<br />

beets, spinach, greens, carrots, parsnips,<br />

chard, celery, early potatoes, leek, onion,<br />

and summer flowering annuals.<br />

• Don’t get too eager! Hold off on planting<br />

anything outside that cannot handle a potential<br />

frost or could be affected by cool<br />

nights. Beans, tomatoes, squash, peppers,<br />

eggplant, are the classic heat lovers. Unless<br />

you have sufficient insulation such as<br />

cold frames or cloches, keep them sheltered<br />

until early May.<br />

• Harvest your early crop of rhubarb and<br />

possibly your asparagus. Continue this for<br />

the next six or so weeks.<br />

Click on mother-nature.ca for<br />

coupons, sales and tips!<br />

when they will emerge as adult flies<br />

ready to complete the cycle once again.<br />

How do you get rid of them?<br />

Because the larvae are encased in the fruit,<br />

they are hard to control. Currently the best<br />

way to knock back the populations are to<br />

disrupt the life cycle of the pest.<br />

One of the suggested methods is to place<br />

a sheet of plastic or cloth on the ground<br />

to catch the larvae before they squirm<br />

into the ground to overwinter. Check on<br />

this sheet daily and dispose of larvae and<br />

berries. Do not put them in the compost!<br />

Rather, put them in a bucket with some<br />

soapy water. Alternatively, others suggest<br />

that if you have chickens to pen a few of<br />

them up around the base of the current<br />

bush and have them peck and scratch.<br />

To prevent new infestation on uninfected<br />

bushes, cover your bushes with<br />

floating row cover from April until late<br />

June when the female flies are busy laying.<br />

This will provide a barrier of entry<br />

and protect the newly forming berries<br />

from infection.<br />

Jonathan van Wiltenburg has a degree in<br />

horticulture and runs Eden Horticulture Services.<br />

You can reach him atedenhort@gmail.com.<br />

Have you<br />

found Waldo yet?<br />

Check the web for<br />

details, then come<br />

down to the store to<br />

find him and win!<br />

Scan this with your smart phone<br />

Get the app at mobiletag.com<br />

Who knows better than Mother Nature?<br />

7050 Duncan Street 604 485-9878<br />

42 • www.PRLiving.ca

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