Whole Zine

© Philip Kuntz
Leavens loves the park's unique formations, the most
recognizable being Monkey Face on the back side, or north
end of the park. Leavens describes the glorious dichotomy
of being exposed while climbing Monkey Face and then the
shelter climbers feel when they finally reach the Monkey's
“mouth.” Climbers can rest here before stepping back out
of the mouth and into total exposure again. “I have fond
memories of that,” Leavens says.
Generally, the climbing conditions are unbeatable yearround
with typically dry and sunny weather. It can get cold in
the winter months, but soaking rainfall is rare. One drawback
in the middle of the summer is that the high desert heat can
be oppressive.
Sue Sullivan, a former resident of Eugene who now lives in
Bend, says Smith Rock has an unparalleled variety in climbing
accessible to the novice and to the really experienced
climber. “It's a beautiful spot.”
Sullivan, a long-time member of the Obsidians, too, has
done both traditional climbing and sport climbing. Beginning
climbers would benefit from taking a class, or from having a
guide for the climb, she counsels. Nelson also recommends
that beginners take a class, or seek mentorship through
more experienced climbers. Some of the several climbing
guides that instruct in Smith Rock include Chockstone
Climbing Guides , Smith Rock Climbing Guides, and Smith
Rock Climbing School. And don't think that gym climbing
is enough preparation for outdoor rock climbing, he adds,
because it's not: “It's a different world,” he warns.
hiking highpoints
Smith Rock State Park also serves as a destination for hikers
what with an impressive selection of trails bringing the rugged
canyon terrain into perspective. It's a “beautiful
place to hike along the trails with great views from the trails,”
says Sullivan, who finds it “interesting to watch other climbers”
as she hikes.
Brian Hamiltion, another Eugene Mountain Rescue and
Obsidian member, absolutely loves to hike at Smith Rock.
On one Obsidian trip to the park, he and fellow hikers took
Misery Ridge Trail right by Monkey Face. “The west side of
Misery Ridge goes right past it,” he explains. For hikers on the
way back down (or up) there's stair stepping and switch backs
along Misery Ridge. Emergency stations, complete with
stretchers, for injured climbers are visible, too.
Another favorite hike, Hamilton says, is along the River
Trail, adjacent to the Crooked River. Here wildlife is easy
to see and hikers are close to climbers. “You can see how
they're doing it,” he explains, recalling last summer watching
training leaders instructing on how to set anchors into
the rock. He recommends people consult hiking guides,
for example, renowned Oregon hiker and Eugene resident
William Sullivan, author of several books on hiking in Oregon.
Sullivan includes hiking routes at Smith Rock at his website
oregonhiking.com.
And the weather? “When it's miserable here in Eugene in
the spring and the fall, it's guaranteed great weather there
for hiking,” Hamilton adds, cautioning that no matter what
time of year, “take plenty of water.”
Local climbers and Smith Rock enthusiasts also travel annually
to the Smith Rock Spring Thing, a volunteer work-party
that usu- ally attracts more than 200 people along with parks
staff for trail maintenance and projects. Once Lane County
residents leave Smith Rock to head home, Hamilton recommends
stopping at the Terrebonne Depot for a burger or
some other sustenance at the refurbished old railroad depot.
Serving lunch and dinner, the restaurant focuses on seasonal
and local flavors in its New American cuisine. Of course, the
same can be said for Smith Rock State Park. “I feel fortunate
to have it in my backyard” Nelson says.
pro Tip
Grab a bite at Terrebonne Depot, one of
the region's best kept secrets.
getting there
Directions
From Eugene, take Highway 126 east
toward Bend; stay on Highway 126 where
it merges with U.S. Highway 20; take
Highway 126 through Sisters to Redmond;
in Redmond, Highway 126 doubles as
SW Highland Avenue; turn left from SW
Highland Avenue onto U.S. Highway 97;
take U.S. Highway 97 into Terrebonne,
turn right onto B Avenue/NE Smith Rock
Way; turn left onto NE 17th Street; turn
right onto Lambert Road/NE Wilcox
Street; turn left onto NE Crooked River
Drive/Wallenberg Road; Smith Rock State
Park is on the left, 9241 NE Crooked River
Drive in Terrebonne. Total drive time:
about 3 hours.
what you'll need
Rock climbing
With several thousand routes up the
rock faces — more than 1,000 of them
bolted — climbers should understand their
own limitations; use “clean” techniques
and equipment such as chocks and
camming devices. Fixed bolts should be
used in areas with permanent anchors.
Several Bend area rock climbing guides go
to Smith Rock. The University of Oregon’s
Outdoor Program occasionally plans trips;
call 541-346-4365.
Trails
Trails at Smith Rock are available for
hiking, mountain cycling and horseback
riding where posted and are of varying
degrees of difficulty. For example, a loop
for hikers along River Trail and Misery
Ridge Trail is about 3 miles with a 900 feet
elevation gain.
« Sisters
Metolius River
Deschuttes River
Lake Billy
Chinook
The Cove
Palisades
State Park
Culver
Crooked River
Peter Skene Ogden
State Scenic Viewpoint
126
Horseback Riding
Where Posted
Mountain Biking
Where Posted
Tent Camping Only
First come, first serve
basis only
To Warm Springs
Metolius
Redmond
Bend
«
«
97
26
Smith Rock
State Park
Terrebonne
Key
97
Madras
26
Prineville »
Prineville »
Town
Point of
Interest
Road
River
N
Pets OK.
Leash Law
Strictly Enforced
$ Day Use Fee $5
Hikers pause to take in the scenery
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