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Surrey Homes | SH21 | July 2016 | Interiors supplement inside

The lifestyle magazine for Surrey - Interiors Supplement, Fabulous Fashion, Delicious Dishes

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Cut above<br />

the rest<br />

Jo Arnell on the pleasure of growing your own cut flowers<br />

Imagine floating serenely down rows of beautiful blooms,<br />

pausing every now and then to pick some perfect buds on<br />

long sturdy stems – then filling the house with delicately<br />

arranged vases of flowers. Just the thought of growing your<br />

own cut flowers is a gorgeous and ecologically sound thing<br />

to do (thinking uses very little carbon), but the reality is<br />

slightly less dreamy. Growing cut flowers requires space, time<br />

and effort, if you want to get a good – and varied crop.<br />

Where to grow them<br />

A sheltered, sunny position is ideal, as blooms need<br />

protection from the wind and weather. Some flowers flourish<br />

in the shade, but most will do better in full sun – and with<br />

access to water if possible. The number of flowers you need<br />

will be an important factor when you’re deciding where to<br />

grow your flowers. Annuals, some roses and repeat-flowering<br />

plants with many blooms can easily be grown in existing<br />

flower borders – they respond well to picking, so it’s just early<br />

dead-heading. In reality you might not want to deplete your<br />

borders, so it can be worth finding a separate space. A corner<br />

of the veg patch can work well, and dahlias, sunflowers and<br />

sweet peas will appreciate the rich, well-cultivated soil.<br />

It makes sense to grow cut flowers in rows, as you would<br />

any other crop, as this will make weeding, picking, and<br />

general maintenance easier. My cutting garden has narrow<br />

beds – about a metre wide, but they’re quite long, with small<br />

paths in-between. If you choose to have grass paths, ensure<br />

that you can get the mower down them...<br />

How to grow them<br />

Soil preparation, as with the production of any other crop,<br />

is key. Clear perennial weeds and apply some organic matter<br />

(well-rotted manure/spent mushroom compost) to improve<br />

soil structure and fertility. Budget will dictate whether you<br />

start with good-sized plants that will crop in the first year,<br />

or whether you take the cheaper, longer, but ultimately<br />

more satisfying route of growing from seeds and cuttings.<br />

Once established, clumps of perennials can be divided and<br />

replanted, shrubs can be layered, or propagated from cuttings,<br />

and you will learn which annuals and biennials enjoy your<br />

conditions and happily self-sow – saving you time and effort.<br />

A general purpose fertiliser raked in at the start of the season<br />

will keep the plants fed and a mulch applied in spring will<br />

also release nutrients, retain moisture and help prevent weeds.<br />

Watch out for aphids and other pests and try to catch them<br />

early before they infest your plants. A potassium-rich feed in<br />

mid/late spring will encourage flowering and the ripening of<br />

fruit. This will be especially useful for those plants that flower<br />

repeatedly and will keep them going for longer.<br />

What to grow<br />

Much of this will be down to personal taste and you will have<br />

a good idea of the flowers you simply must include – and<br />

probably a hate list too, but don’t forget to think about the<br />

overall structure of your bouquets and arrangements. Flower<br />

arranging is similar in principle to border design. Colour<br />

schemes are important, but shapes are also key. Aim for a mix<br />

of plants that will allow you to design an effective bouquet of<br />

flowers for as long as you need. Think about shapes; spikes,<br />

larger focal points, foliage as structure and background, and<br />

fillers to soften and act as a foil or buffer in between blooms.<br />

Perennials and bulbs<br />

Grow peonies and dahlias for impact, majestic spires of<br />

delphiniums, verbascums and lupins, with Gypsophilla or<br />

Alchemilla as fillers and Melianthus for foliage interest. Bulbs<br />

are great for spring colour, but remember that you only<br />

get one stem per bulb. Peonies won’t appreciate too much<br />

hacking either, but if you cut lupins and delphiniums right<br />

to the ground after flowering/picking, they should put on<br />

another show in the autumn.<br />

Annuals and biennials<br />

Some of these will self-sow if they like you, but be prepared<br />

to grow a new batch from seed each year. Sweet peas,<br />

Cerinthe major, Bupleurum griffithii, sunflowers, Amni <br />

110 www.wealdentimes.co.uk

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