JB Life Summer Vol. 3

LOCAL FOOD
It may sound hard to suggest a dish that combines tofu, a
central component of the vegetarian world, with stewed
meat, but my challenge is to try it because it might certainly
prove worth it for you. Hwashim sundubu jjigae combines
sundubu (soft tofu), ground meat or seafood, gochujang paste,
and various kinds of spices in a delicious and fulfilling soup.
The “sundubu jigae town,” in the Hwashim area of Wanju, was
responsible for perfecting this already very promising and loved
dish.
Now, tofu is far from being a strange element in Korean food.
It’s present in side dishes, usually in its white or brown glory,
but it’s also commonly added to soup recipes. What makes sundubu
jjigae special is the fact that the tofu present in it is not
pressed, so the water that usually is drained out actually stays
inside, making the tofu moist, soft, and more prone to blend with
the other elements of the stew.
Ideally, a trip to Hwashim, part of Wanju’s Soyang district,
would bring you to the original incarnation of the Hwashim Sundubu
restaurant, part of a quaint sunbudu village along the road
toward Tapsa and Jinan. However, a sister Hwashim Sundubu
in Junghwasandong, not far from downtown Jeonju, is a viable
alternative to try the stew because it holds the tradition along
with ingredients brought directly from the same region where
the dish originated. The same is true for branches in Iksan and
Samnye. While some of these branches perhaps won’t provide
a cozy countryside atmosphere like the original (and won’t bring
you the pleasure of the trip outside of urban limits), any location
most certainly will convince you with the taste of the dish itself.
The tofu offerings from Hwashim and from the sister restaurants
vary slightly, with the tofu stew containing ground beef in
some spots but shellfish, shrimp, or even mushrooms at others.
You could add to the meal a tofu pajeon (Korean pancake with
vegetables) or perhaps dotorimuk, a locally popular brown acorn
jelly slathered in soy sauce. While the latter requires a fine use
of chopsticks to transport to your mouth, its earthy flavor and
unique texture are a great accompaniment to the spice of the base
sundubu jjigae dish. No matter your side dish choices, everything
won’t cost you more than 15,000 won if you are alone and even
less if you are enjoying your time with good people. Yes, it’s one
more of those Korean experiences that incentivizes sharing (in
fact, some branches of Hwashim offer sets mostly for groups of
four), so share this with others and taste sundubu jjigae, be it in
the countryside or conveniently close to home in an affordable
and good restaurant. Of course, as dessert, don’t miss the chance
to taste tofu ice cream, drinks, or especially the Hwashim tofu
donuts. The donuts in particular are a hit with costumers and are
constantly being served up fresh in batches of 3 to eat in or to go.
If you prefer going to the source for the true, raw experience
of sundubu jjigae, you can always go to the town of Hwashim
to taste the dish in all its glory. One way is to take the special
bus to Tapsa temple that passes by Jeonju’s train station; if you
know the minimal Korean to ask the driver, he can easily drop
you in the “sundubu village.” Otherwise, go to one of the sister
restaurants or use private transportation with someone who already
knows the surroundings, ensuring yourself a delicious and
frustration-free trip.
- By FELIPE FIRMINO GOMES
By FELIPE FIRMINO GOMES
Jeonbuk Life Contributing Writer
Cham bungeojim is a dish born in Hwasan, in Wanju,
and it’s one of the most characteristic dishes in
that area. It’s composed of freshwater fish (typically
carp, usually served inside a type of metal pan), leafy vegetables
(similar to spicier types of kimchi) and several types of
side dishes (radish leaf and acorn tofu are common accompaniments).
The presentation itself is certainly something to behold. The
fish is big (around 30 centimeters usually) and the spices used
on the outside, combined with the broth inside the pan, make for
a very visual experience. At this point, with your food staring
back at you, you will probably think to yourself, “This might be
a bigger challenge than I was anticipating,” but this is also part
of the package. The fish is kept mostly intact so you can take
your time enjoying all its parts in whichever order you prefer.
The fish itself is very flavorful and unique. There is something
special about the way it is salted: radish leaves are added
to it to accentuate the features (and you can also eat those
leaves, if you don’t mind the fact that they will be also drenched
in heavy spices). If you like to savor the different parts of any
fish, prepare to be surprised even then. It wouldn’t be hard to
find clumps of small fish eggs inside at least one of the usually
two fish served in the portion. It certainly adds an unexpected
element, and a type of flavor and texture that will leave you
wondering about how it was prepared. The fish is loaded with
spices and condiments that act differently in each part of the
fish: the more tender parts tend to suck in more of those, which
grants a stronger and more pronounced flavor.
The dish will cost you around 15,000 won for a serving that
is really plentiful for two people. Personally, I recommend it
as a dinner dish accompanied by makgeolli or soju. And save
some space in your stomach for a treat in the end. It’s normal
for a restaurant to cap off the experience by preparing you some
nurungji, or scorched rice drink, a very old Korean recipe that
consists basically of adding hot water to the remaining rice inside
a pan. After a while, the rice gets a moist consistency, very
pleasant after what can be considered a quite substantial meal.
This dish was created in the same county where the sundubu
jjigae formula was perfected (Wanju), and it would be safe to
assume all the ingredients to not only be very natural in their
composition, but also come from local crops. Even though it
might be a little hard to get to Hwasan, the small town where
the dish comes from, local options can be found for very decent
prices. In the Jeonju neighborhood of Ajungli, very close
to the now-defunct Ajungli train station, a very handy alternative
is present. The Jeonju restaurant – very plainly named
Hwasan Cham Bungeochim, offers a very similar experience
to the source. The tradition of ingredients, preparation method
and serving are kept close to what they are in Hwasan, near
the Gyeongcheon Reservoir, where many restaurants offering
the original dish lie. Still, if you feel like adventuring, three of
the most famous and original cham bungeojim experiences can
be found around the reservoir in Hwasan: Hwasan Shikdang,
Sansujang Garden, and Yaksu Garden are three representative
restaurants. And keep in mind -- It is said that this dish is best
experienced with scenery as a side dish, so taking a trip to eat it
at the reservoir in Hwasan is definitely preferred.
20 Jeonbuk Life 21