JB Life Summer Vol. 3

WORLDVIEW
what looked at first glance like a row of about 10 cigarettes,
fanning out all around the rictus grin. Upon closer
inspection, I realized that they were rolled up 10,000
won bills (the highest paper money here at the time). My
boss explained that this was a ritual to give blessing to
the car—and his business. His friends had put the bills
in the pig’s lips and shared a shot of soju with him each
time. He invited me to come along while he finished off
the thing by throwing the pig’s head in a nearby lake. I
politely passed, a bit taken aback by the scene, and at the
prospect of getting into his car.
She explained the shrine, the candles, the gorgeous
calligraphy tapestries that looked like they
were written in ancient Valyrian . . . then turned
our attention to the opposite wall: a bookshelf.
“My strength is astrology,” she said. I was surprised,
because it didn’t come up that much in my
research. She wanted my birthdate, and even the
time of day if I could provide it. She used a large
book to find the positions of the planets the day I
was born.
Korean Shamanism, or Muism, has had a long and
hard history. Suppressed and even persecuted by Buddhists
in the 6th century, it was called “backward” by the
Confucians since the 15th century. Then Japan occupied,
and tried to replace it with Shintoism. Then protestant
missionaries extensively used media to turn the people
away from “worship of gods.” Then came dictator Park
Chung-hee, using the words of missionaries, but not the
spirit. He wanted to cleanse the country for economic
growth. Many seers were dragged into the street to watch
their homes go up in flames. (This is the same spirit that
later cleansed the street urchins into concentration camps
ahead of the 88 Olymics).
Only recently have we become aware that culture and
tourism are key to economic growth. Now, shamanism is
celebrated in Korea as a source of folk culture, albeit with
the value placed on colorful ceremonies, glossy photos,
and tourists’ currency.
Then she pegged me—from my birthday alone,
she described my personality, (which isn’t very
typical), my likes, dislikes, strengths, weaknesses…
I mean she nailed it, with truly unnerving accuracy. I found myself wondering if
she had done research on me, but she couldn’t have had time. She couldn’t pull it out
of me, because of the communication barrier and my attempted poker-face. Then she
asked for my wife’s birthday... and said things about our relationship that nobody knew.
Some of it I hadn’t even considered, until I heard it. It was pretty amazing. She was
pastoral, helpful, kind... did I mention unnerving?
Jeollabuk-do’s economic growth is very closely linked with culture, tourism, and the celebration
of the old ways. Korea’s traditional culture is so colorful largely because of deep shamanistic
roots. Whatever value you place on the unseen, the “old gods” are very present in Korea, wielding
a powerful influence, yesterday, today, and tomorrow.
LEFT (top): A modern-day mudang checks the charts to determine fortune.
LEFT (middle): A shamanistic altar. The top shelf, above the offerings, is
said to be left vacant for spirits of the dead. LEFT (bottom): Prayer beads
are one of the many symbols that tend to overlap between Buddhism and
shamanism. ABOVE: Bujeok, blessings written in an ancient language and
meant to be hung above doors for protection.
[Photos by ANJEE DISANTO]
30 Jeonbuk Life 31