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The wine guide<br />
Can there be any grape as Italian as Sangiovese?<br />
As well as being Italy’s most planted variety,<br />
it also forms the backbone of arguably the<br />
country’s greatest wines. Simply put, understand<br />
Sangiovese and you understand Italian wines.<br />
Advertorial<br />
Despite being quite the chameleon, the best<br />
expressions of Sangiovese most definitely are to<br />
be found in Tuscany. Having spent most of my<br />
childhood in the southern hills of the region, for<br />
me it can be difficult sometimes to think of wine<br />
without thinking of Sangiovese.<br />
Tuscany is the grape’s ancestral home – where<br />
the earliest specimens were bred at some point<br />
in the 18th century. And it was here where two<br />
historic figures – Bettino Ricasoli and Clemente<br />
Santi – propelled Sangiovese to the forefront of<br />
the Italian wine landscape for good.<br />
The former began blending Sangiovese with<br />
other grapes within the Tuscan sub-region<br />
of Chianti, which stretches from Florence in<br />
the north to Siena in the south. Ricasoli used<br />
Canaiolo Nero and Malvasia Bianca to create<br />
his famous Chianti Blend, although the list of<br />
permitted grapes has since expanded.<br />
Today, wines labelled Chianti can come from<br />
just about anywhere in Tuscany. So as a helpful<br />
guideline, look out for wines from Chianti<br />
Classico. It tends to be more reliable and<br />
comprises the original zone of production.<br />
Meanwhile, following in the footsteps of the<br />
family now known as Biondi-Santi, a separate<br />
tradition in the more southerly Tuscan village<br />
Jack Suckling explains why<br />
Sangiovese is Italian wine<br />
of Montalcino favours the use of 100 per cent<br />
Sangiovese. Brunello di Montalcino wines can be<br />
very expensive due to scant availability and cult<br />
status, though a savvy tip is to opt for Rosso di<br />
Montalcino, which are aged for only one year (as<br />
opposed to five) and can be real bargains.<br />
At Vinarius we proudly have both main schools<br />
of Sangiovese winemaking represented. Our<br />
Brunello is expectedly rich with ripe fruit, while the<br />
Chianti is also typically delicious while focussing<br />
more on herbs and sour cherries. Come in and try<br />
them for yourselves at Vinarius any time.<br />
Jack Suckling is wine adviser and Italian wine<br />
specialist at Vinarius.<br />
Vinarius is a wine merchant and enoteca located at<br />
536 Roman Road, London, E3. vinarius.london<br />
LOVEEAST SEPTEMBER <strong>2016</strong> 37
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