A KERALAN LOVE LETTER Words by Andrew Youngson Whether looking to unwind on the beach under swaying palm trees, delve into the richly dense jungles and plantations, or glide on the open backwaters, Kerala can provide just what you’re looking for – as Andrew Youngson, over two family holidays, has discovered. Kerala holds a special place in my heart. When thinking of India, many holidaymakers are understandably drawn to the buzz of the cities, the spirituality of the Ganges, or the majesty of the Taj Mahal. But for me, the jewel of India is Kerala, the southwestern state where the pace can be a little slower, sure, but the vibrancy of its people, places and things is no less vivid. In the purest sense of the word, it’s one of the richest lands I have been to; rich in the luscious greenery of its landmarks, its powerfully flavoursome cuisine, and generous-spirited people. I’ve visited Kerala twice in the past four years, most recently in a beautifully lazy weeklong vacation in the beach town of Kovalam, and previously in 2012 when my family and I embarked upon a two-week whistle-stop tour of its many delights and attractions (more on this later). During our quiet family break in early May this year, we were ensconced within Sugerma Villa; a handsome three-storey house complete with four en-suite bedrooms, marble flooring throughout, generous veranda and large circular swimming pool. While only one mile from the palm treelined water front resorts and restaurants of Kovalam beach, and less than 10 miles from Thiruvananthapuram International Airport, the villa felt far from the bustle. Nestled deep in the wooded thickets of Venganoor village, the main signs of life outside Sugerma were the occasional passing tuktuk taxis, the joyful cries of cricket-playing youths, and the intermittent loudspeaker-projected prayers of a nearby temple festival. By day we read, we dozed, we swam, we sunbathed. We also took it in turns to venture out into the local markets – vegetable, fish, and super – to select our meals for the day. Guided by Shibu, the villa’s multi-talented chef (and tuktuk driver!), our shopping expeditions were an experience all in themselves; an opportunity to learn up close about local industry, delicacies and Keralan cooking. Malayalam is the official language in Kerala, but levels of English are high, meaning we had little trouble in buying groceries or household necessities. Home cooking too made for a cheap dining option, with ingredients for a nine-person meal costing around 2,200 rupees (about £25). In the early-evening, when the heat of the daytime sun was subsiding and the thrum of the cicadas began to rise, we would take quiet strolls outside the villa. Our wanders offered a chance to explore the agricultural activities around us, to catch glimpses of the feathered wildlife in the trees and among the reeds, and exchange smiles and pleasantries with our Keralan neighbours – my two-year-old nephew being a particular favourite among the locals. 28 | TRAVEL EXPLORER | <strong>AUTUMN</strong> / <strong>WINTER</strong> <strong>2016</strong>
<strong>AUTUMN</strong> / <strong>WINTER</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | TRAVEL EXPLORER | 29