Tokyo Weekender August 2016
Far from the Madding Crowd Secret Diving Spots, an Organic Farm, a Mountain Onsen, and Other Dreamy Getaways Also: Rediscovered Photos from WWII, Change the Way You Watch TV, Summer Drinks, and a Rio Sports Roundup
Far from the Madding Crowd Secret Diving Spots, an Organic Farm, a Mountain Onsen, and Other Dreamy Getaways
Also: Rediscovered Photos from WWII, Change the Way You Watch TV, Summer Drinks, and a Rio Sports Roundup
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GETAWAY GUIDE: CHIBA<br />
THE WILD BEACH<br />
While most people heading to<br />
a beach in Chiba will be aiming<br />
for Onjuku’s long stretch,<br />
you can borrow bicycles from<br />
Brown’s Field and cycle down<br />
to Izumiura Bay in about 20<br />
minutes. Perhaps not ideal for<br />
sunbathing, the beach is often<br />
windy, but this gives it a wild<br />
element with crashing waves<br />
not often seen near <strong>Tokyo</strong>. Cycle<br />
through narrow back roads<br />
and discover exquisitely kept<br />
traditional homes, many of<br />
which have their own private<br />
rice paddies. Keep going, with<br />
the ocean on your right-hand<br />
side, and look for signs leading<br />
you up a steep hill to Taito<br />
Saki lighthouse. From here,<br />
you can take in a bird’s-eye<br />
view of the coastline, with the<br />
60 km-long Kujukuri beach – a<br />
surf hotspot – on your left.<br />
YOU’LL NEVER SEE THIS MANY<br />
STARS FROM YOUR TOKYO BALCONY<br />
THE LUXURY RYOKAN<br />
If you’d like your farm stay to be<br />
a little more chic yet still traditional,<br />
then turn your attention<br />
to Jiji no Ie. In 2013, Brown and<br />
Nakajima opened this six-bedroom<br />
guesthouse that’s just a<br />
short walk from the farm, and offers<br />
tatami flooring, sliding shoji<br />
doors, and a bathhouse in the garden<br />
that you use privately with<br />
your partner or family. Contrasting<br />
beautifully with the old-fashioned<br />
elements is a contemporary<br />
styled dining area featuring<br />
one large wooden table, where<br />
Nakajima serves up gourmet<br />
cuisine that’s mostly vegan but<br />
sometimes includes local fish and<br />
cheese. Enjoy a 10-course tasting<br />
menu accompanied by unfiltered<br />
sake and organic coffee.<br />
Jiji no Ie costs ¥15,000 per night<br />
per person, including breakfast<br />
and dinner.<br />
THE STARRY SKY<br />
Surrounded by trees and rice paddies, Brown’s<br />
Field farm is two acres of glorious nothingness.<br />
You can spend ages just sitting on the wooden<br />
deck of the farm’s Rice Terrace Café (left) watching<br />
the two kid goats either basking in the sun or<br />
balancing precariously on top of various perches.<br />
Head across the green grass towards the woody<br />
area at the bottom of the garden and enjoy an<br />
outdoor foot massage or just an afternoon reading<br />
in a hammock. Find the path through the bamboo<br />
trees, out on to the road, and make your way past<br />
a variety of interesting scarecrows down to Isumi<br />
river for a waterside stroll. End your evening looking<br />
up towards the sky, because you’ll never see<br />
this many stars from your balcony in <strong>Tokyo</strong>.<br />
For more information about Brown’s Field farm<br />
visit brownsfield-jp.com<br />
TOKYO WEEKENDER | AUGUST <strong>2016</strong> | 23