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Tokyo Weekender August 2016

Far from the Madding Crowd Secret Diving Spots, an Organic Farm, a Mountain Onsen, and Other Dreamy Getaways Also: Rediscovered Photos from WWII, Change the Way You Watch TV, Summer Drinks, and a Rio Sports Roundup

Far from the Madding Crowd Secret Diving Spots, an Organic Farm, a Mountain Onsen, and Other Dreamy Getaways

Also: Rediscovered Photos from WWII, Change the Way You Watch TV, Summer Drinks, and a Rio Sports Roundup

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GETAWAY GUIDE: CHIBA<br />

THE WILD BEACH<br />

While most people heading to<br />

a beach in Chiba will be aiming<br />

for Onjuku’s long stretch,<br />

you can borrow bicycles from<br />

Brown’s Field and cycle down<br />

to Izumiura Bay in about 20<br />

minutes. Perhaps not ideal for<br />

sunbathing, the beach is often<br />

windy, but this gives it a wild<br />

element with crashing waves<br />

not often seen near <strong>Tokyo</strong>. Cycle<br />

through narrow back roads<br />

and discover exquisitely kept<br />

traditional homes, many of<br />

which have their own private<br />

rice paddies. Keep going, with<br />

the ocean on your right-hand<br />

side, and look for signs leading<br />

you up a steep hill to Taito<br />

Saki lighthouse. From here,<br />

you can take in a bird’s-eye<br />

view of the coastline, with the<br />

60 km-long Kujukuri beach – a<br />

surf hotspot – on your left.<br />

YOU’LL NEVER SEE THIS MANY<br />

STARS FROM YOUR TOKYO BALCONY<br />

THE LUXURY RYOKAN<br />

If you’d like your farm stay to be<br />

a little more chic yet still traditional,<br />

then turn your attention<br />

to Jiji no Ie. In 2013, Brown and<br />

Nakajima opened this six-bedroom<br />

guesthouse that’s just a<br />

short walk from the farm, and offers<br />

tatami flooring, sliding shoji<br />

doors, and a bathhouse in the garden<br />

that you use privately with<br />

your partner or family. Contrasting<br />

beautifully with the old-fashioned<br />

elements is a contemporary<br />

styled dining area featuring<br />

one large wooden table, where<br />

Nakajima serves up gourmet<br />

cuisine that’s mostly vegan but<br />

sometimes includes local fish and<br />

cheese. Enjoy a 10-course tasting<br />

menu accompanied by unfiltered<br />

sake and organic coffee.<br />

Jiji no Ie costs ¥15,000 per night<br />

per person, including breakfast<br />

and dinner.<br />

THE STARRY SKY<br />

Surrounded by trees and rice paddies, Brown’s<br />

Field farm is two acres of glorious nothingness.<br />

You can spend ages just sitting on the wooden<br />

deck of the farm’s Rice Terrace Café (left) watching<br />

the two kid goats either basking in the sun or<br />

balancing precariously on top of various perches.<br />

Head across the green grass towards the woody<br />

area at the bottom of the garden and enjoy an<br />

outdoor foot massage or just an afternoon reading<br />

in a hammock. Find the path through the bamboo<br />

trees, out on to the road, and make your way past<br />

a variety of interesting scarecrows down to Isumi<br />

river for a waterside stroll. End your evening looking<br />

up towards the sky, because you’ll never see<br />

this many stars from your balcony in <strong>Tokyo</strong>.<br />

For more information about Brown’s Field farm<br />

visit brownsfield-jp.com<br />

TOKYO WEEKENDER | AUGUST <strong>2016</strong> | 23

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