22 SCIENCE & TECH RACHEL CHIN / THE UNDERGROUND FIGHTING FRIZZ www. the-underground.ca NOVEMBER 3 - NOVEMBER 30, 2016 VOLUME 36, ISSUE <strong>03</strong>
SCIENCE & HEALTH 23 Sarah Siddiqi, Contributor People with who are looking to deflect the weather from altering their hairstyles are no strangers to detangling serums, antifrizz sprays, and leave-in conditioners. They can spend up to two hours trying to control their hair, only to realize that the minute they step out the front door, they will be greeted by their arch-nemesis: frizz. In order to combat frizz, it is important to understand why it happens. In other words, what is the science behind frizzy hair, and how can it be prevented? Understanding the science behind frizzy hair is the first step to successfully taming it. When the air is humid, there are high levels of hydrogen present. Keratin, a protein in human hair, has a chemical reaction with the hydrogen in the air. The protein and water molecules in the hair form bonds with the airborne hydrogen, causing hair to curl and become frizzy. Hair is porous, so it readily absorbs moisture. This is why, the quantity of moisture the hair absorbs is indicative of the weather. Aliya Shafi, a second-year student says, “My hair becomes most frizzy when the weather is very humid or windy.” Shafi describes her hair as straight and black; not coarse, nor thin, and fairly silky. Lakshmijaa Asokan, a first-year student, says that her hair becomes most frizzy “When it’s humid outside, or when it’s raining.” Asokan describes her hair as curly/wavy and short, although she often straightens her hair. This indicates that a multitude of people experience problems with frizz, despite the texture of their hair. Keratin in the hair is negatively charged, whereas shampoos also contain negative charges; and therefore, the repulsion of like charges result in frizz. The hair is comprised of several layers, and also contains sulfur atoms, which contribute to the strength of the hair. The sulfate bonds do not contribute to frizzy hair, however, the hydrogen bonds are responsible for the temporary shape of the hair. When hair becomes wet these hydrogen bonds break, and slowly reform as the hair dries. If hair becomes too dry, due to chemical or heat damage, it forms more hydrogen bonds with the keratin. The hair kinks and swells until it eventually disrupts the cuticle; as this occurs all over the head, hair becomes curly and frizzy. The shape of the hair cuticle determines hair type. People with very silky straight hair have a round cuticle, those with wavy hair have slightly less rounded cuticles, and individuals with curly hair have an oval or elliptical-shaped cuticle. As the cuticle shape is disrupted, the hair starts to curl and become frizzy. Although there are several reasons why frizz occurs, there are many products available to help fight it. Shafi suggests using “Lots of conditioner, hair oil -- like Moroccan oil, and use a baby oil mask occasionally.” Asokan recommends “Argan oil, anti-frizz creams, or curling mousse to enhance and tame curly hair.” When deciding which conditioner to use, it is important to look for two things: amino silicones and cationic surfactants. Amino silicones allow silicone to stick to the hair, and this helps to fight damage while conditioning the hair. Cationic surfactants are positively charged, and neutralize any static in the hair. When these two ingredients are combined, they add weight to the hair, protecting the hair from damage and frizz. Shampoo also contributes to static in the hair, and so to reduce frizz, sulfate and alcohol-free shampoos can be used. Shampoos that contain sulfates cause hair to become dry which causes the strands to absorb more moisture from the air. Alcohol causes the hair cuticle to swell which therefore contributes to frizz. Some sulfate and alcohol-free shampoos to try include, Macadamia Oil by Marc Anthony, as well as Evercrème and EverStyle by L’Oréal. Using these products will help to prevent further damage caused by frizz. It is important to understand the science behind frizzy hair, so that it can be more effectively treated. Although the effects of frizz cannot be completely eliminated, there are products available to help reduce their prominence. By using specific products like a hair mask and reducing exposure to straighteners/ curling irons, you can prevent the damage that leads to frizz. www. the-underground.ca NOVEMBER 3 - NOVEMBER 30, 2016 VOLUME 36, ISSUE <strong>03</strong>