Issue 03

SCIENCE & HEALTH
23
Sarah Siddiqi,
Contributor
People with who are looking to deflect
the weather from altering their hairstyles
are no strangers to detangling serums, antifrizz
sprays, and leave-in conditioners. They
can spend up to two hours trying to control their
hair, only to realize that the minute they step
out the front door, they will be greeted by their
arch-nemesis: frizz. In order to combat frizz, it
is important to understand why it happens. In
other words, what is the science behind frizzy
hair, and how can it be prevented?
Understanding the science behind
frizzy hair is the first step to successfully taming
it. When the air is humid, there are high levels of
hydrogen present. Keratin, a protein in human
hair, has a chemical reaction with the hydrogen
in the air. The protein and water molecules in
the hair form bonds with the airborne hydrogen,
causing hair to curl and become frizzy.
Hair is porous, so it readily absorbs
moisture. This is why, the quantity of moisture
the hair absorbs is indicative of the weather.
Aliya Shafi, a second-year student says, “My
hair becomes most frizzy when the weather is
very humid or windy.” Shafi describes her hair
as straight and black; not coarse, nor thin, and
fairly silky.
Lakshmijaa Asokan, a first-year student,
says that her hair becomes most frizzy
“When it’s humid outside, or when it’s raining.”
Asokan describes her hair as curly/wavy and
short, although she often straightens her hair.
This indicates that a multitude of people experience
problems with frizz, despite the texture
of their hair. Keratin in the hair is negatively
charged, whereas shampoos also contain negative
charges; and therefore, the repulsion of
like charges result in frizz.
The hair is comprised of several layers,
and also contains sulfur atoms, which contribute
to the strength of the hair. The sulfate
bonds do not contribute to frizzy hair, however,
the hydrogen bonds are responsible for the temporary
shape of the hair. When hair becomes
wet these hydrogen bonds break, and slowly
reform as the hair dries. If hair becomes too dry,
due to chemical or heat damage, it forms more
hydrogen bonds with the keratin. The hair kinks
and swells until it eventually disrupts the cuticle;
as this occurs all over the head, hair becomes
curly and frizzy. The shape of the hair cuticle
determines hair type. People with very silky
straight hair have a round cuticle, those with
wavy hair have slightly less rounded cuticles,
and individuals with curly hair have an oval or
elliptical-shaped cuticle. As the cuticle shape
is disrupted, the hair starts to curl and become
frizzy.
Although there are several reasons
why frizz occurs, there are many products available
to help fight it. Shafi suggests using “Lots
of conditioner, hair oil -- like Moroccan oil, and
use a baby oil mask occasionally.” Asokan recommends
“Argan oil, anti-frizz creams, or curling
mousse to enhance and tame curly hair.”
When deciding which conditioner to use, it is
important to look for two things: amino silicones
and cationic surfactants. Amino silicones allow
silicone to stick to the hair, and this helps to fight
damage while conditioning the hair. Cationic
surfactants are positively charged, and neutralize
any static in the hair. When these two ingredients
are combined, they add weight to the
hair, protecting the hair from damage and frizz.
Shampoo also contributes to static
in the hair, and so to reduce frizz, sulfate and
alcohol-free shampoos can be used. Shampoos
that contain sulfates cause hair to become
dry which causes the strands to absorb more
moisture from the air. Alcohol causes the hair
cuticle to swell which therefore contributes to
frizz. Some sulfate and alcohol-free shampoos
to try include, Macadamia Oil by Marc Anthony,
as well as Evercrème and EverStyle by L’Oréal.
Using these products will help to prevent further
damage caused by frizz.
It is important to understand the science
behind frizzy hair, so that it can be more
effectively treated. Although the effects of frizz
cannot be completely eliminated, there are
products available to help reduce their prominence.
By using specific products like a hair
mask and reducing exposure to straighteners/
curling irons, you can prevent the damage that
leads to frizz.
www. the-underground.ca NOVEMBER 3 - NOVEMBER 30, 2016
VOLUME 36, ISSUE 03