JB Life January 2017

GLOBAL FOOD
left the country for about 12 years, and when
I came back, people are all about killing
“I your tongue with hotness! It’s all about crazy
spice. Crazy tteokbokki, crazy buldakbokkumyeon.
It’s a trend. Then they expect that from Mexican food.
Mexican food isn’t about that - it’s about flavor.”
This is one of the many opinions offered up by Julie
Chu, a former student of Johnson and Wales in Miami,
who spent the last 10 years living and working in World
Class resorts such as Fisher Island and The Mandarin
Oriental in Florida and Washington. Cooking for the
likes of Michelle Obama, Robert DeNiro, and Steven
Spielberg, Julie clearly loved her stay in the U.S but
knew it was time to return to her hometown of Jeonju.
20
By DEAN CRAWFORD
Jeonbuk Life Contributing Writer
In doing so, she brought with her a desire to produce not
only great food, but a change in the perception of who
cooks it.
“If you are a man, you are a yosengnam (sexy man
that cooks food), but if you’re a woman who cooks, you
are a jubang imo [kitchen aunt]. I’m pretty educated, I
have a professional background, I take pride in knowing
a lot about cuisine, but what happens is people think
“Oh, she’s female, maybe she just works and cleans in
the kitchen.” No I’m sorry, I’m the chef, I’m the owner,
I create my own recipes, and I want to change your mind
that a woman can be a great chef as well.”
She backs up this statement by painstakingly focusing
on her food. Popular dishes such as the carnitas and
enchiladas are braised for hours while the sauce is reduced,
the meat shredded and the process started again
to create dishes that are full of flavor with a lovely after
taste. This shouldn’t come as a surprise as Julie says she
wants her food to hit you like “a punch in your face!”
She wants her flavors bold, but also authentic.
“The Koreans might say, ‘Hey it’s not spicy enough. I
thought this was Mexican food? I want it flaming hot!’
I’m thinking to myself, “Mexican food is not as spicy
as you think, it’s all about the flavor.” Hotness is not a
flavour. It’s the cumin, the oregano, cilantro, chili powder
- it’s not just jalapeños. Hot is a feeling, so you have
to be really careful because it will cover all the delicate
flavors of your food. My carnitas taco probably has 20-
30 ingredients that the majority of people wouldn’t be
able to tell - but I will know!”
But Julie doesn’t stop there. She is a perfectionist who
focuses on every aspect of her food, not just the flavor
profiles. “I wouldn’t say it’s a science, but I also put a lot
of thought into my textures. So I will put pickled onions
in my pork carnitas, which not only gives color and flavor,
but adds texture. The carnitas are soft and fall apart,
so what happens is I put pickled onions in there, which
is different from pico de gallo because tomato can be
mushy as well. That’s why I put corn salsa in there also,
because it pops. Then, with pickled onions on top, it’s
crunchy. So I put a lot a lot of thought into the balance
of the flavor and texture.”
Briefing her designers to provide a “modern vintage”
feel, the restaurant is chic, yet the long bar is adorned
with traditional Mexican colors in the form of peppers
and bottles. I particularly liked that the bar looks onto
the kitchen, so I could watch the chefs at work whilst enjoying
a cocktail. And judging by her sumptuous food,
I have no doubt Tacocina will have the culinary impact
on the city that Julie desires. I urge you to give her place
a try. It’s not only Julie’s food that will make a big impression,
but also the venue itself, which she sees as an
extension of her own personality.
“What I’m trying to do is make good old Mexican
food that I used to eat all the time, but with good ingredients
with a lot of touches from a real chef. I want
people to think it’s a fun place to be. Come over and feel
at home. Come and hang out. Koreans and foreigners - I
just want people to mingle. Mi casa es su casa!”
Julie’s new home is open 7 days a week from 12pm
to 1am.
BOTTOM LEFT: Julie (right) and her staff perfect
flavors in the Tacocina kitchen. ABOVE: Tacocina’s
enchilada. BELOW: Tacos, an essential order.
[Photos by DEAN CRAWFORD]
Jeonbuk Life 21