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JB Life January 2017

Volume 5 (January 2017) of JB Life, a publication of the Jeollabuk-do Center for International Affairs. Enjoy!

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Lee Min Hyeok (we’re Lees all around the table, but<br />

not related), who has come along for an interview<br />

about their work, the construction of traditional Korean<br />

hanoks.<br />

We sip our tea on the balcony, watching and waiting<br />

patiently for the specks of white in the trees<br />

around the reservoir to spread their heron wings and<br />

dive into the water. You can’t help but wonder if it<br />

looks as beautiful and graceful from the perspective<br />

of the fish, who are about to become a side dish.<br />

But perhaps the fish have accepted the flow of nature<br />

better than us.<br />

Their work sounds grueling as much as fascinating.<br />

I am enchanted by the description of removing<br />

an ancient rooftop for repairs, but maybe less<br />

so by the choking dust resulting from twenty tons<br />

of mud that has been drying for five hundred years.<br />

This is no exaggeration, it turns out. Forty thousand<br />

pounds of mud is quite standard for the construction<br />

of a hanok roof. I ask more about old materials, expecting,<br />

I think, a similar strain of what I’ve heard<br />

from home of carpenters digging carefully for old,<br />

hand-fashioned colonial nails at destruction sites,<br />

24<br />

much higher in quality and durability than our modern,<br />

machine-produced versions. It takes a while<br />

and a few drawings and phone translations for me to<br />

understand what they are trying to explain about ancient<br />

Korean “nails,” though, which turn out to often<br />

be tight collections of dried reeds. Massive beams<br />

of hard wood that take five strong men to move into<br />

place are held there, for hundreds of years, by tough<br />

little twigs.<br />

BK gestures to the hills sloping all around us and<br />

reminds me that during the war the country was<br />

stripped of trees. I had heard that the Arbor Day tradition<br />

of replanting was waning, as there are about<br />

as many trees as there is room for between the growing<br />

skeletal, ever-taller apartment building invasion<br />

of the landscape. What I hadn’t thought of was what<br />

this means for the age of the overall Korean forest.<br />

There are plenty of forty or fifty-year-old trees,<br />

which is fairly young in tree years. So for hanoks,<br />

stronger, old-growth wood is imported from North<br />

America.<br />

I ask BK if it seems sad to him that the trees aren’t<br />

actually Korean trees. Somehow, I had the impres-<br />

sion that, after a cold waterfall shower in the morning,<br />

the hanok builders would turn around and hug<br />

the nearest tree, patriotically. Not exactly. Traditionalism,<br />

and even Korean pride, aren’t always exactly<br />

what you would expect.<br />

It seems a shame to me, at first, considering the<br />

patriotism the trees might feel. But then I remember<br />

my first flight across the States to the Pacific Northwest,<br />

the ugly brown squares cut out of the beautiful<br />

deep green mountains of old-growth forest. “Kimberly<br />

Clark,” said the woman next to me in disgust.<br />

“It all gets chopped down for toilet paper.” If the<br />

majestic, kind, and furry Douglas firs must come<br />

down, I am much more heartened to see them loved<br />

into a beautiful, harmonious hanok far away than<br />

to become local toilet paper. Globalization can be<br />

bittersweet.<br />

“Too-strict rules make us lose culture,” says BK,<br />

poignantly. He tells me about the struggles of building<br />

projects with hard and fast rules about the tools<br />

that can be used. It does seem to make sense that<br />

the original tools would need to be used to create<br />

an authentic structure. He shows me a picture in his<br />

phone of a terrifically old beam revealed in a recent<br />

restoration project. In front is a fresh, light, probably<br />

North American beam, glided into place next to<br />

an older one that is still strong, but dark with age.<br />

Instead of the pettable, smooth furriness of newly<br />

cut wood, the old beam bears proudly the shine of<br />

thousands of painstaking grooves that were left by<br />

someone who must have spent days shaping it by<br />

hand hundreds of years ago.<br />

It’s hard to say if all Korean traditional builders<br />

would feel the same. Patriotism is strong in Korea,<br />

of course. BK has lived and worked in other<br />

countries, embraced other cultures warmly. Perhaps<br />

he can see from the perspective of the bird and the<br />

fish, and perhaps knows exactly how they can build<br />

their nest.<br />

PHOTOS: [Previous and current pages]<br />

Hanok projects by Byoungkyoung<br />

Lee and his crew. [Photos courtesy of<br />

BYOUNGKYOUNG LEE]<br />

Jeonbuk <strong>Life</strong> 25

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