1915-07-01 Marmon 41, Info Book, 1534-B wm

BOOK NUMBER 1534-B
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41110111111116- — •
INFORMATION BOOK
for Care and
Operation of
Marmon "41"
Motor Cars
Covering Series Commencing July, 1915
A COPY OF THIS BOOK IS SUPPLIED
WITH EACH NEW 1916 MARMON "41"
IF LOST, A DUPLICATE COPY WILL
BE MAILED ON RECEIPT OF
Price 25c
WHEN ORDERING SPECIFY BOOK NUMBER 1534-B
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Nordyke & Marmon Company
Established 1851
INDIANAPOLIS, INDIANA
CORNELIUS PRINTING COMPANY, INDIANAPOLIS

1916 Marmon "41" Body Types
Four Passenger Car
Two Passenger
Speedster
Seven Passenger
Touring Car
Three Passenger
Roadster
Contents
Getting Ready and Learning to Operate 5
Lubrication—Detailed Information 9
Suggestions for Driving 12
General Detailed Directions 16
How to Detect Faults 65
Index 70
Warranty
"THIS IS TO CERTIFY THAT we, Nordyke & Marmon Company, of
Indianapolis, Indiana, warrant each new motor vehicle manufactured by us,
whether passenger car or commercial vehicle, against defects in material and
workmanship under normal use and service, our obligation under this warranty
being limited to making good at our factory any part or parts thereof
which shall within three months after delivery of such vehicle to the original
purchaser be returned to us with transportation charges prepaid, and which
our examination shall disclose to our satisfaction to have been thus defective;
this warranty being expressly in lieu of all other warranties expressed or
implied and of all other obligations or liabilities on our part, and we neither
assume nor authorize any other person to assume for us any other liability in
connection with the sale of our vehicles.
"This warranty shall not apply to any vehicle which shall have been repaired
or altered outside of our factory in any way so as, in our judgment, to
affect its stability or reliability, nor which has been subject to misuse, negligence
or accident; nor to any commercial :vehicle made by us which shall
have been operated at a speed exceeding the factory rated speed or loaded beyond
the factory rated load capacity.
"We make no warranty whatever in respect to tires, rims, ignition apparatus,
horns or other signaling devices, starting devices, generators, batteries,
windshields, speedometers or other trade accessories, inasmuch as they
are usually warranted separately by their respective manufacturers."
NORD= & MARMON CO.,
Indianapolis, Indiana, U. S. A.
The above is the standard form of warranty for motor vehicles adopted by
National Automobile Chamber of Commerce, Inc.
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Marmon Dealers' Service Policy
In Effect Among Marmon Dealers
First—It is our intention to give each and every purchaser of a Marmon
car fair and business-like treatment. Should any customer not receive such
treatment, we ask in good faith to be so advised.
Second—We will make all necessary adjustments and repairs without
charge for one month after delivery of car to customer, provided car has not
been misused, tampered with or injured through accident.
Third—We will install, without charge for labor, any parts that may be
replaced as defective by Nordyke & Marmon Company, or by ourselves, for a
peribd of ninety days after date of delivery of car to customer. After such
date all work will be done in a careful and workmanlike manner and our
regular charge made to customer for same. .

Figure 1. Dash Arrangement.
Preparing Car for Service
Fill Gasoline Tank at Rear of Car. A funnel having a chamois
strainer should be used to withhold water and solid matter from
the gasoline. Gasoline tank capacity of Marmon "41" is twentytwo
gallons. A well-filled tank is a ..good insurance against possible
embarrassment. Make sure cap is screwed tight.
Fill Radiator slowly with pure soft water. Be sure water is
not merely backing up from too rapid filling when radiator appears
full. It is not sufficient that there is water in the radiator.
It must be full, or nearly so, at all times.
Generally Lubricate Car per complete instructions on page 9.
To form the habit from the first, go over this thoroughly, even
though it has been done before the car left the factory. We are
not responsible for the proper lubrication of the car as delivered.
The importance of proper lubrication cannot be too strongly impressed.
Owners who show remarkable records for economical
operation are those who watch this point very carefully.
Remember
A Full Supply of Oil in the Motor (3% gallons) when the float
stem stands at the top of the glass.
The Time to Refill—when the float stem is % inch from the top.
Add at least one gallon of oil.
The Danger Point- -when the float stem is 11/4 inches from top of
glass. Add two gallons of oil immediately.
Inspect Tires and see that they show no flattening where
resting on the ground. See detailed instructions, page 60.
Inspect and Refill Storage Battery. See page 41 and complete
storage battery instructions in separate instruction book on
this subject.
On Mounting Driver's Seat see that gear shift lever is in
"neutral," throttle lever is open about one and one-half inches,
spark lever is advanced about one-third, and that ignition switch
is on "battery" position, marked "B."
Air Choke Lever marked "close to start" should normally
be left at lowest position. In cold weather it may be raised to
facilitate starting, but should be lowered promptly thereafter.
Lever marked "air valve" may be raised slightly if necessary
to enrich mixture, but should be kept as low as possible for
smooth running.
The clock is stem wound and set, the key being exposed by
revolving the rim to the left. To set, pull up on the key.
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5

To Start the'Motor
Gradually Depress Starter Pedal all the way down.
If starter only spins without turning engine, immediately release
pedal and wait until starter stops spinning. Then push
starter pedal again more slowly.
Caution. Never hold starter pedal part way down, as this
will burn out the resistance. Should starter pedal stick, disconnect
battery under seat as quickly as possible.
See "Detecting Faults," page 65, if trouble is experienced
starting motor.
When the Motor Starts
Release starter pedal at once, and lower. "air choke lever."
Lower throttle lever so motor will not race and advance spark
lever two-thirds the way up the quadrant.
Throw ignition switch to "magneto" position, marked "M.''
Starting the Car
Release the hand brake by drawing brake lever back slightly
to release the pawl, and push .forward. (Never fail to attend to
this.)
Disengage clutch by depressing left foot pedal.
Move the gear shift lever to left in crossbar of the "H"
shaped opening and backward into first speed position. (If it
will not go, raise and lower the clutch pedal, when it will slide
into gear easily.)
Slowly engage clutch by lifting left foot very gradually, at
the same time increasing motor speed with throttle or accelerator.
Car will start forward.
If you have not had experience in driving it is well to try the
steering, brakes, clutch, starting and stopping, disengaging gear
lever, etc.; that is, become thoroughly familiar with the car operation
in first speed, before attempting the higher speeds. See
"Suggestions for Driving."
The shift to second is made preferably at .a speed of six to
eight miles per hour.
Release the clutch and move gear shift lever forward to
neutral, to the right, and then forward again to second speed
position. To do this without "clashing" gears will take practice,
but when you have learned just the right time to slide in the
gears, it can be done without difficulty.
As soon as lever is in gear, re-engage clutch slowly, at the
same time speeding motor as before.
6
The shift to third or high speed should be made at from ten
to fifteen miles per hour ordinarily. This shift is made the same
way except that the lever is moved straight back into right rear
slot of the H. Do this without undue pausing in neutral. This is
the usual running position at from, say, eight miles per hour upward.
See "Suggestions for Driving."
To Stop the Car
Retard throttle and spark levers, disengage clutch, and move
gear shift lever to neutral.
Apply the right foot to the service brake, gradually bringing
the car to the desired stopping place. Applying the brake hard,
except in emergencies, is a very bad practice, both on account of
wear on tires and the danger of skidding.
Before re-engaging the clutch be sure gear shift lever is in
neutral, then set hand brake.
To Stop the Motor
Disconnect the spark by turning the ignition switch to "Off"
position marked "0."
To lock the ignition, the switch handle may be removed when
in "off" position.
Running Backward
When the car is at rest release clutch and move lever into
forward left hand slot on the H and engage clutch. Watch steering
carefully. Avoid backing rapidly and always be ready to
operate clutch and brake pedals.
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Have you made out and sent to
us the Owner's Record Card, inside front cover of this
Instruction Book? If not, do it right now.
It is for your own benefit.

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Directions for Lubrication
Lubricants to Be Used
Few motorists realize the vital need of extreme care in the
selection of lubricants. There are so many brands of oil for sale
backed by plausible salesmen's arguments that the motorist is at
a loss to make a selection. The fact is, properties like color, absence
or presence of free carbon or acid, flash point, cold test, fire
test, viscosity, etc., while having their bearing upon the merit of
oils, are of little significance to the owner in aiding in his selection.
Therefore we recommend that the owner select either of
the oils named below, which we know from experience to be excellent
oils for Marmon cars, and adhere rigidly to this choice.
Either of these oils is obtainable in almost any fair-sized town.
(A) Motor Oil. Use only the best automobile cylinder oil.
The body should be medium heavy for warm weather and medium
for cold. Mobiloil A and Monogram heavy are suitable oils, and
there are doubtless others equally good. Any oil used should be
carefully watched for sediment by cleaning frequently as elsewhere
directed, until its suitability is established.
(B) Transmission Lubricant. Use "ZZZ" Special Ironsides
Grease. For cold weather operation thin this with one-half pint
to one pint of 28-30 paraffine oil.
(C) Soft Grease is recommended for grease cups and rear
axle in winter. "K-00 Non-fluid oil," Gredag No. 32 and Dixon's
No. 677 are good soft greases.
(D) Hard Grease is essential for the various housings and
for grease cups. "K-000 Non-fluid oil," Gredag No. 33 or No.
63 and Dixon's "Graphitoleo" are recommended.
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See numbers on Fig. 2.
Where to Lubricate
Under the Hood.
A 1 Motor oil supply. See full directions under Motor Lubrication
System.
A 2 Starter shaft oilers. (Two.) Lift caps and fill with oil. Put
few drops of oil on yielding drive at end of shaft.
A — 3 Use oil can on joints of controls to carburetor, magneto and
muffler cutout.
D (C) 4 Throttle shaft grease cup.
D (C) 5 Steering crank shaft grease cup.
D (C) 6 Steering column housing grease cups. (Two.)
A — 7 Magneto. Put few drops oil under brass flaps, front and rear.
9

A— 8
A— 9
D — 10
A —'11
Front Axle.
D (C) 12
D (C) 13
D (C) 14
D — 15
A— 16
Generator rear oil hole. Loosen screws on rear sleeves above
and below, turn outward and add few drops oil in oil hole
thus exposed.
Generator front oil hole. Turn button on flap and add few
drops of oil in oil hole thus exposed.
Tire pump. See directions on page 33.
Fan bracket oiler.
Reach rod grease cups, front and rear.
Upper and lower steering spindle grease cups, right and left.
(Four.)
Cross rod grease cups, right and left.
Front wheel housings, right and left.
Front spring bolt oilers. (Six.)
Under Front Floor Board.
D — 17 Clutch housing. Unscrew plug, fill half full with grease gun.
If too full, grease will get on clutch facing.
D (C) 18 Clutch release housing grease cup.
D (C) 19 Pedal shaft grease cups. (Three.)
D — 20 Universal joint grease housing. Unscrew plug, fill two-thirds
full with grease gun. Screw down tight and replace cotter
pin.
D C 21 Transmission housing. Unscrew large filler plug and supply
lubricant to cover countershaft. About five pounds total is
required.
A — 22 Gear shift shaft bearing oiler.
A— 23 Put few drops oil on starter switch shaft.
Body.
A — 24
A — 25
D (C) 26
Steering wheel ball oiler and throttle levers. Few drops oil.
(Not illustrated.) Door hinges and latches. Windshield joints.
Rock shaft grease cups. (Two.) Under trap door in tonneau
floor.
Mid-Chassis.
D — 27 Universal joint grease housings. (Two.) Unscrew plug, fill
two-thirds full with grease gun. Screw down tight and replace
cotter pin.
D (C) 28 Speedometer swivel grease cup.
A — 29 Torque rod cross bar end bearings. Add few drops oil.
D — 30 Torque rod front bearing grease housing. Pack.
A — 31 Brake links. Oil.
Rear Axle.
D — 32 Rear axle housing. Heat heavy oil in filling.
D (C) 33 Rear axle grease cups. (Two.)
A — 34 Brake shaft oiler and brake links. Be sure to give these plenty
of oil.
D (C) 35 Spring seat grease cups, right and left.
D — 36 Rear wheel hub housings. Pack.
A — 37 Rear spring bolt oilers. (Four.)
Wheels.
A — 38 Oil demountable rim clamps on all four wheels.
10
When to Lubricate
Daily or every 100 miles.
See that crank case oil gauge indicates a sufficiently full
reservoir. (No. 1.)
Twice weekly or every 250 miles.
Give two turns to all grease cups. (Nos. 4, 5, 6, 12, 13, 14, 18,
19, 26, 28, 33 and 35.)
There are twenty-three on the car.
Weekly or when washing car.
See that storage battery has distilled water to top of plates.
Fill grease cups and give two turns. Put few drops motor
oil on lever connections. (Nos. 3, 22, 23, 24, 25, 31 and 34.)
To prevent possibility of brake shafts sticking always oil
them carefully.
Put few drops oil in spring bolt oilers. (Nos. 16 and 37.)
Monthly or every 1,000 miles.
Clean motor oiling system. Oil fan. (No. 11.)
Oil electric units. (Nos. 2, 7, 8 and 9.)
When changing tires.
Fill base of tire pump, and oil demountable rim lugs to prevent
binding. (Nos. 10 and 38.)
At beginning of season or every 3,000 miles.
See that all housings have proper amount of lubrication.
(Nos. 15, 17, 20, 21, 27, 30, 32 and 36.) There are thirteen
such housings.
When overhauling car—every 10,000 miles.
Remove and clean with gasoline all lubricant retainers and
inspect. When reassembling use motor oil on all partially
enclosed parts so that the grease will "take."
Remove and lubricate spring bolts and spring leaves.
Note—While the above is to be considered a practical working
schedule, the requisite lubrication varies widely with conditions.
For instance, hard, fast driving in rough, hilly country
will necessitate more lubrication per mile than driving on clean,
smooth city streets. The careful operator will soon learn to
modify the schedule as required, by noting the action, escape of
lubricants, etc.
However, do not reason that the above points are unimportant
because your car is giving good service without attention
thereto, for even if the mechanism has not complained, it has been
suffering just the same.
A small amount of lubricant frequently applied is much better
than an occasional liberal dose.
11
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Suggestions for Driving
The care with which all the details of Marmon operations are
worked out makes it possible for anyone with a little practice to
become a fairly good driver. But the full pleasure of handling
the car comes only with the complete confidence resulting from an
intimate knowledge of the machine. The simple logical design of
the Marmon makes this an easy task. A little study of the car
itself in connection with the directions in this book will bring rich
returns in the satisfaction of ownership.
Much of the satisfaction that an automobile gives depends
upon the driver. If he neglects his automobile, if he does not
lubricate it, or if he tinkers with it too much, he is bound to receive
unsatisfactory service.
No machine can be absolutely automatic. All things must
wear in time. The best preventive of wear, and the most certain
thing for increasing the life of an automobile, is proper lubrication.
Familiarize yourself thoroughly with all the lubricating
points of your car. The chart in this book will show you where
each one is located.
Gear Shifting should always have careful attention. Clashing
gears and jerking starts are uncomfortable to passengers and
brand the operator as an amateur; but, more important, they
mean strain and wear on the mechanism and repair bills sooner
or later. If you are not uniformly successful in producing a
smooth acceleration from rest to speed in high gear, select a place
to practice where there is plenty of room and no traffic. Remove
floor board so you can see the clutch, and let someone with you
handle the steering wheel so you can give undivided attention to
the shifting. With lever in neutral and motor running, note just
how much motion of clutch pedal releases the clutch and at what
point the clutch brake takes hold. Then in shifting bear in mind
that depressing clutch pedal only far enough to release the clutch
permits it to "spin," but further motion applies the clutch brake
and brings it to rest. Now try a number of times the shift from
first to second at the same car speed, say, three miles per hour,
until you can always make a perfect shift at that speed. Then
try it at six or seven miles per hour, until you can shift perfectly.
Then try at various speeds until you know the perfect shift instinctively
from the car speed. Once learned this way you will
never have trouble again. The shift from second to high may be
correctly made by pulling lever straight back without undue waiting,
at almost any speed. While you are about it, it would be a
12
good thing to practice the more difficult shifts from higher to
lower speeds, which may be neatly done by letting in the clutch
and speeding up the motor while lever is in neutral, then disengage
again when going into the lower speed.
If necessary the clutch brake may be adjusted in accordance
with the instructions on page 44.
Through very heavy traffic, or whenever it is necessary to
start and stop frequently and watch the surroundings very carefully,
it is a good plan to put gear in second speed and advance
the throttle one and one-half inches. Then you can start and stop
with the clutch alone, and the steering, horn, clutch and brake are
all you will have to watch.
Skidding. In general there are four conditions when skidding
must be looked out for : On wet asphalt pavements, on icy
highways, in deep sand or gravel, and at high speeds. To avoid
• skidding drive very cautiously, avoid sudden turns of the steering
wheel to right or left, and avoid sudden hard applications of the
brakes. A skid which has started may often be checked by quickly
throwing the steering wheel in the opposite direction. That is, if
you turn to the right and the rear of the car skids to the left,
turn the wheel to the left. Applying brakes will not prevent skidding,
but a sudden speeding up of the motor sometimes is effective
if conditions permit.
Hill Climbing. In approaching a hill, speed up the car and
leave the throttle open, so as to make use of the car momentum
and full motor power in climbing. Quite steep hills may be taken
this way without shifting gears. If laboring is noticed as the
motor slows down, retard the spark not more than half way.
Such laboring or "knocking" results from early ignition at
low speeds, because the force of the explosion has time to strike
the piston before it reaches dead center. If it is seen that the hill
cannot be taken on high gear, shift into second or low as required,
before the car has been allowed to lose momentum.
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Using Lower Gears. Do not try to make the car always run
in direct drive, on heavy pulls: It is no disgrace to shift back to
second and is considerably easier on the car.
Most American drivers use their first and second only to start
their cars, or on very hard pulls. As a result accidents often happen
because of their unwillingness to drop from third speed into
second. They allow the car to drift along, and thus get into a
tight place in the traffic or too close to a street car, and because
of misjudging the speed of an approaching vehicle or unwillingness
to stop their own car, collisions and other accidents result.
13

Your second gear is there for a purpose. It is but a simple
operation to change from third to second, and if it is necessary do
not hesitate in bringing your car to a full stop. It is rare that
any of us are in such a hurry that we cannot spare a second or
two for safety.
Stopping on a Hill. If it is necessary to stop on a hill, release
the clutch to keep the motor going and at the same time apply the
foot brake, then set the emergency brake, throwing the speedchange
lever into neutral. Disengage the clutch, shift into low
speed, hold the car with the emergency brake and release the
emergency brake, gradually engage the clutch and the car will
move on. Break over the top of hills cautiously and be prepared
for the descent which may follow.
If the car must be left standing on a grade make very sure
that the emergency brake is holding firmly. As an extra precaution
a stone or block back of one wheel is recommended to prevent
a sudden jar starting the car down, the grade.
Descending long, steep grades, it is advisable to shift into low
or second speed and descend with the clutch engaged with the
throttle closed, thus avoiding the necessity of depending on the
brakes alone, since the motor serves as a brake under these conditions.
It is especially effective if the spark is cut out. An
experienced driver will avoid using the brakes too much.
Speeding. The Marmon is designed to meet speed requirements,
and there are times when the owner needs this ability to
speed. But do not feel that you have a racing car—it is designed
for touring. Never speed a car for any length of time, and, above
all, 'remember that a motor will require time to run in smooth,
and should not be speeded during the first few hundred miles.
The Cost of Speed. If you run fast, if you work hard, you require
more food to sustain you. If you drive your car at a fast
speed all the time, it requires more fuel—more gasoline and more
oil. If you work fast and hard, you wear out more quickly, and
so does an automobile. Tires, for instance, last twice as long on a
car that is driven at fifteen miles an hour as they do upon cars
that are driven at thirty miles an hour. Remember that the service
your car gives you is as much dependent upon the manner in
which you operate it as is your own health dependent upon the
manner in which you care for it.
14
Etiquette of the Road
One of the first things that a new driver learns is the advantage
to be derived from consideration and courtesy extended to
others using the public highway. Most drivers know that they
are expected to turn to the right when approaching a vehicle, or
to the left in overtaking and passing a slow-moving vehicle going
in the same direction.
After they have come to realize the accuracy with which
their car may be steered and the ease with which it may be called
upon to pass and leave behind another vehicle, possibly approaching
from the opposite direction, it seems natural for some drivers
to display their "nerve" in not turning from the center of the
road until they are almost upon the .approaching vehicle. Often,
however, the other fellow has as much courage and takes the same
stand, and in the confusion which very frequently follows either
one or both cars are damaged on account of collision.
The lack of consideration on the part of a few careless
drivers has resulted in the adoption of very strict municipal regulations
governing traffic. Those who are familiar with city traffic
regulations and apply them as well on country roads will not be
likely to encounter difficulties.
In approaching an intersection, either in the city or in the
country, where a clear vision of the road approached can not be
had on account of buildings, fences, etc., obstructing the view, the
car should be slowed down to a speed at which it can be readily
stopped in case of the approach of another vehicle from either
side.
In turning a vehicle into another road to the right, the driver
should keep his car as near the right-hand curb as practicable.
In turning into another road to the left he should turn around
the center of the two and not cut the corner. No vehicle should
be slowed up or stopped without the driver thereof giving those
behind him warning of his intentions to so do, by proper signals.
In approaching a railroad crossing, especially if there is an
incline or grade, the approach should be made carefully, first to
determine whether to make the crossing or not, and second to be
in a position to accelerate your car suddenly with very little
chance of stalling your motor.
Many accidents have happened because inexperienced drivers
have become confused and stalled their motors. On noting the
approach of the train, they have thrown on their power, or let in
their clutch suddenly, with the result that the motor is stalled and
it is then too late to move out of danger.
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A
15

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS
To obtain a logical working classification, consider the fundamental
functions of the Marmon. Briefly put, it is a road vehicle
for the accommodation of passengers with a device for the production
of power and for its transmission to the rear wheels, with
appropriate means of control. The five expressions in heavy type
in the above definition can very conveniently be considered as the
five fundamental units or systems of the Marmon car, and in considering
the various parts it is well to remember that each partakes
of one or more of these five functions. Enumerated in
convenient order, they are :
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(5)
This
below.
Production of Power.
(Motor)
Transmission of Power. (Clutch to rear wheels)
Control Systems.
(Steering, Brakes, etc.)
Vehicle Suspension.
(Running Gear)
Passenger Accommodation.
(Body)
is the main classification followed in the discussion
1. The Production of Power
To understand the principle of the four-stroke cycle, consider
the action of cranking in a single cylinder. Each time the starting
crank is timed half around, the connecting rod forces the
piston to slide alternately from top to bottom, and from bottom
to top of its stroke. It takes two complete turns of the crank or
four strokes of the pistons to complete a cycle. Starting with the
piston at 'the top of its stroke, we have the following train of
events:
1. Suction Stroke. Intake valve open; exhaust valve closed.
Piston moves down, drawing in above it, a mixture of gasoline
vapor and air through the carburetor.
2. Compression Stroke. Intake and exhaust valves closed.
Piston moves up; compressing the mixture.
Ignition. At this point an electric spark between the terminals
of each spark plug explodes the mixture.
3. Working Stroke. Intake and exhaust valves closed. The
great pressure caused by the explosion of the gas forces the piston
downward.
4. Exhaust Stroke. Intake valve closed; exhaust valve
open. The piston moves up, expelling the burnt gas and clearing
the cylinder for the new charge.
16
Figure 3. Cross Section View of Marmon "41" Motor showing Marmon
Continuous Circulating Oil System.
It is seen that during only one of the four strokes is actual
work performed, the other, three being used to prepare for this
working stroke.
The same cycle takes place- in order in each cylinder, giving
six working strokes for each two revolutions of the crank shaft
of the "41." An extremely steady power output with smooth
running results.
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The Mechanical System
Marmon "41" motor is six-cylinder, L-head type, having cylinders
cast in threes, 414-inch bore and piston stroke 5I/2-inch.
The sectional view at the right of Fig. 3 shows clearly the
way the piston slides up and down the water-jcketed cylinder
walls, producing rotary power impulses upon the crank shaft
through the connecting rod.
To Remove Cylinders.
Cylinders need to be removed only for infrequent inspection,
but this may be done without disturbing valve adjustments as
follows: Remove hood, remove exhaust manifold, unbolt intake
manifold and remove with carburetor attached. Disconnect lower
17

water connection. Remove wiring and back off nuts on eight
cylinder studs in crank case. Two men should lift off cylinders,
using special care to lift vertically to prevent straining rods.
Before reassembling be sure to back up tappet yoke screw,
as this serves to fasten cam bearing when in place. See that
gasket is clean and smooth and cylinders bolted tight to prevent
oil leakage between cylinders and cam tunnel Care should be
taken not to damage piston rings. Then proceed, reversing the
order of disassembling. Finally screw down tappet yoke screw to
cam bearing, but do not tighten too hard or it may strain the
cam shaft. Tighten lock nut against yoke.
Carbon Deposits.
A sooty deposit may gradually accumulate in the combustion
chamber, necessitating its occasional removal. This accumulation
is due to incomplete combustion of low-test gasoline or too much
oil in the cylinders. By watching the oil feed, the carburetor
adjustment and using kerosene as outlined below, such accumulations
may be avoided almost entirely. At regular intervals
(once a week or at the end of every long run), when the motor is
hot, open pet cocks and insert through each a tablespoonful of
kerosene. Close pet cocks, switch off the spark, lower throttle
and crank the motor. This will partially vaporize the kerosene
and throw it around the combustion chambers, dissolving the deposit.
A .little more kerosene may be added on starting next
morning by pouring it into the carburetor air intake. Carbon
deposit may also be caused by poor oil.
Cleaning Carbon.
The oxygen process of removing carbon is so satisfactory that
it has practically superceded all other methods. The only precaution
necessary is to see that the piston is at the top of the
compression stroke. It consists in simply dropping a lighted
match into the combustion chamber, and playing a jet of oxygen
about until the carbon is all burned out. Valves should be ground
after the carbon is cleaned.
Connecting Rods bear on the piston pin at the top and on the
crank shaft "pin" at the lower end. The upper is a sleeve bearing
with only slight motion. The lower is a split bearing of
phosphor bronze with white brass facing. Between the halves,
brass shims of varying thicknesses are used. Wear will be extremely
small (assuming proper lubrication) and may be "taken
up" in slight amounts by removing the thin shims. This delicate
work is to be undertaken only by a skilled mechanic.
18
Crank Shaft is a single forging with a main bearing at each
end and between each connecting rod bearing, making seven main
bearings, or thirteen in all. Intermediate bearings are supported
by an extension of the cylinder studs, so that stress between
cylinder and crank shaft never comes on the crank case, which
serves merely as a spacer. See Fig. 8, page 29. Crank shaft
bearings may be "taken up" the same as connecting rod bearings
when necessary.
Marmon41.com
Figure 4. View of Front of Motor.
Front cover has been removed and part of cylinder and crank case cut away
to show pump and cam shaft drives, valve mechanism and cylinder.
19

The Valve System
Valves are actuated by cams on a single cam shaft ("A,"
Fig. 4), housed in an oil retaining tunnel running the length of
the motor. Fig. 4 shows how the helical cut gear "B" turns the
cam shaft gear "C" at one-half crank shaft speed, and how the
cam "D" in revolving strikes the roller "E" and lifts the parts
above, opening the valve "F." The valve spring "G" closes the
valve as soon as the cam permits. Thus by correctly shaping and
positioning the cams the valves are operated in accordance with
the cycle outlined above.
Numbering the cylinders from front to rear the cycle takes
place in the order, 1-5-3-6-2-4. This firing order gives perfect gas
distribution, as front and rear halves always alternate. Cam
shaft has seven bearings held in place by tappet yoke screws mentioned
under "Cylinders," page 17.
Removing Valves.
Above each valve head is •a plug "H" through which the
valve may be removed after the spring has been detached. Raise
the spring with its lower support "J" about one-fourth inch with
tool provided, being careful not to force valve to one side or
strain stem. This will expose split ring "I," removing which
from the groove in the valve-stem will permit the spring to drop
free from the stem. If desired the tappets and guides may now be
taken out after removing the holddown yoke.
Grinding Valves may be necessary occasionally to keep them
perfectly seated and prevent loss of compression. The exhaust
valves will require the most attention, as they handle the hot foul
gases. If grinding is thought necessary, remove valve (see above)
and examine seat. Do not grind unless surface is pitted. A cleaning
with gasoline is often sufficient. If grinding is necessary,
block up the opening from the valve chamber to the cylinder with
a clean cloth so that nothing can enter the cylinder. Also carefully
place a cloth over the tappets, so that no grit can get in them
or down into the oil reservoir. Mix oil and fine carborundum or
oil and powdered glass, place a little on the valve seat, replacing
the valve. Grind with screw driver inserted in the slot of the
valve, turning it in a. semi-circle from left to right and right to
left, pressing it lightly so as not to push out the grinding material
from between the valve and seat. Lift the valve off the seat for
an instant, turn it half way around and repeat the operation until
the seat is bright and smooth. If grinding has been done properly,
a light silvery, line will show all around the valve ; if not,
repeat the operation. This is a somewhat delicate operation and
20
careful handling is required. -Valves may easily be ruined with
coarse emery, rough usage and grinding in a steady rotary motion
without occasionally lifting valve from the seat.
When finished, clean valve and seat carefully with gasoline,
squirting plenty of gasoline into the opening through which the
valve-stem passes. Use care to remove thoroughly all particles of
emery or grit. After thoroughly cleaning valve, valve chamber
and valve-stem guides, remove cloth packed in the cylinder opening,
place a few drops of oil on the valve-stem, place the spring
and washer in position, slip the valve-stem into position and replace
the valve springs, after which, if necessary, adjustments can
be made to provide the proper opening and closing.
Adjusting Valves consists in obtaining the proper clearance
beteween the valve-stem and the tappet set nut "K." Too little
clearance will cause loss of compression when the stem heats and
expands ; and too much will cause noise. The proper amount is
.003 inch to .004 inch, or between one and two thicknesses of this
paper. Adjust when the motor is cold and make sure the valve
is not partially lifted. Loosen the lock nut "L," and, inserting
a piece of newspaper between the valve-stem and tappet set nut,
turn set nut up until it just grips the paper, and tighten the lock
nut. Test the clearance by noting that the paper is free as the
motor is revolved, except when valve is being lifted.
Marmon41.com
Have you made out and sent to
us the Owner's Record Card, inside front cover of this
Instruction Book? If not, do it right now.
It is for your own benefit.
21

Valve Timing.
For the best service, the valves must open and close exactly
the right time, with reference to the piston motion. The flywheel
has various marks indicating the proper relative position. See
Fig. 5. The factory setting is correct and will not change of
itself, but the valve action may be checked against these markings
if desired. To time the intake valve on No. 1 cylinder hold a
screw driver in valve head (front valve of a pair is always the
intake valve), and turn back and forth when the motor is turned
so that mark "TC 1 + 6" (top center) is under the flywheel dial.
Opening of valve will be indicated by ability to twirl valve with
screw driver. If this happens to be the firing center, the intake
valve will remain closed during the whole next revolution. If
not, it will begin to open when the motor has been turned h few
Figure 5. Fly wheel markings. Used in timing motor.
degrees farther to the point marked "IN—OP." If the valve is
in the proper adjustment noted above it will permit turning at
this point "IN—OP." The exhaust valve is tested in the same
way except that the mark "EX—CL" is used to show the point at
which the exhaust valve closes. The point at which the intake
closes and that at which the exhaust opens are not shown, as if
the markings are correct, these are sure to be. The marks "TC
1 + 6," "TC 2T 5," and "TC 3 + 4" designate the top centers
of the several cylinders and the time of each starting from the
proper top center is similar to that for No. 1 described above.
The marks "IN—OP" and "EX—CL" each refer to the cylinders
whose "TC" is nearest.
22
Gasoline System
Gasoline Tank is at rear of car suspended by two straps,
easily removable and without being strained by the motion of the
car. Gasoline should be filled through a chamois to retain water
and sediment. Cap should, be held on firmly (but not necessarily
air tight) and settlings should be occasionally drained from the
plug hole at the bottom.
Grade of Gasoline. In selecting gasoline do not be misled
into purchasing "fancy" gasoline, on representation that it is
"higher gravity" and therefore better. Gravity is by no means
an accurate test of the merits of the fluid, the only really accurate
tests being for a maximum and minimum boiling point. It is, of
course, not practical for the average owner to make such tests
and the best rule is to purchase from a reliable distributor who
handles goods manufactured by responsible distillers.
Most of the gasoline today sold for motor car use differs from
that of several years ago in that it is not all of one grade, but is a
compound or blend of the different petroleum elements ; some of
it being very light and volatile, while about one-fourth of it may
have a boiling point 100 degrees higher than that of water, and is
correspondingly difficult to convert into a vapor. To use this fuel it
is necessary that the whole carburetor and intake manifold system
be thoroughly heated. Without this heat the carburetor setting will
have to be changed and made richer than necessary, while the
extra heavy part of the fuel, not vaporized, will burn slowly in
the cylinder, forming carbon, sooting up spark plugs, etc. There
is, of course, a period of time just after starting the motor from
cold, when this rich mixture will be necessary (and can be furnished
by the dash control), but the control should be released
as soon as the motor becomes warm. It is also advisable, while
the motor is cold, to avoid opening the throttle full, as the fuel
vaporizes much more readily in the suction or partial vacuum
which exists in the manifold while the throttle is partly or completely
closed. In very cold weather, it is advisable, instead of
readjusting the carburetor or using the dash control continuously,
to cover part of the radiator surface so that the normal temperature
is maintained under the hood.
In some parts of the country there is so great a range in the
constituents of the gasoline sold that the lighter or more volatile
fractions may, in warm weather, boil in the carburetor, under normal
operation of the car. In this case, the hot air supply to the
carburetor may be disconnected, while care should be taken that
the gasoline supply line from the tank to the carburetor does
not approach the exhaust pipe, cylinder walls or other heating
influence.
23
Marmon41.com

Figure 6. The Carburetor.
24
The Carburetor
In performing its delicate task of vaporizing the gasoline,
mixing it with air before admission to the cylinders, the carburetor
must of course be adjusted carefully to give good results.
At the factory the carburetor is carefully set for best operation
and should not ordinarily be changed in any way. If you suspect
something is wrong, look to the spark plugs, ignition system, see
that the gasoline has no water and make certain the trouble is
nowhere else before touching the carburetor.
Warm air is drawn into the carburetor through the tube extending
to the exhaust pipe. This is especially necessary for good
operation in winter, but may have the vents near the carburetor
opened or the pipe removed entirely in warm weather.
. The Carburetor is a Stromberg Type. H, having a fixed Size
air opening, or Venturi tube, with an adjustable gasoline nozzle
for low speed and a high speed jet whose opening increases as
the auxiliary air valve opens, so that the air and gasoline openings
expand in proportion to the demand of the motor. A dash
pot at the lower end of the air valve stem prevents valve flutter,
also a quick lowering of the intake manifold vacuum, with resulting
condensation of the mixture, when the throttle is opened
quickly from a nearly closed position.
The low speed adjustment is controlled by a needle valve
seating in the primary nozzle opening, which opening is about
two sizes larger than usually necessary, thus giving a limit on
this adjustment. While the motor is idling the air valve should
always be entirely closed.
• The high speed adjustment is controlled by regulating the
position of the auxiliary gasoline needle valve in relation to its
seat, which is carried in the air valve stem. The end of the needle
carries a small cap and projects above the nut (see illustration).
During the first small opening of the air valve, this needle,
being seated, travels downward with the valve. When the needle
cap strikes the nut the needle stops moving, and any further
opening of the air valve lowers the needle seat, thus bringing
in the auxiliary or secondary gasoline supply. After passing the
needle seat the gasoline rises up along the needle and is delivered
into the air stream at the edge of the air valve.. The high speed
running, adjustment is obtained by varying the position of the
nut downward (clockwise) giving less gasoline, and upward more.
Normally there should be at least 1/32-inch clearance between
needle cap and nut when air valve is entirely closed.
Marmon41.com
25

The dash control operates first, to tighten the air valve
spring, and then raises the auxiliary gasoline needle. For starting
in cold weather the hot-air horn valve should also be closed
for a moment, but this should be opened as soon as the motor
starts.
See "Detecting Faults" in case of carburetor trouble.
( FROM
GASOLINE
TANK
AIR VENT-4'
FLOAT VALVE
11:2iFIEFI ft-7
CHAMBER-
LOWER
CHAMBER
TO INTAKE
MANIFOLD
TO CARBU-
RETOR
Gasoline Feed is by means
of a vacuum-gravity system.
This arrangement uses the
vacuum in the intake pipe to
draw gasoline into a chamber
whence it flows to the carburetor
by gravity. The device
is mounted on the dash
board under the hood at the
left. In operation, as the upper
chamber fills, the float rises and
filially permits the two springs
to move the valve lever up,
closing the valve on the intake
line and opening one to the outside
air. The gasoline then
flows to the lower chamber.
When the float is lowered the
valves reverse and the upper
chamber refills. This fitting
should require little or no attention
and should not be
touched other than an occasional
draining of the lower
plug to remove water and sediment.
Repairs should be made
only by Marmon or Stewart-
Warner Speedometer Corporation
representatives. Complete
detailed description is furnished
with each car.
Figure 7. Vacuum Gasoline Feed
Device.
Lubrication System
Nothing is as vitally important to the life of the motor as
proper attention to the oiling system. Every point which moves
with reference to another point which it touches must have lubrication.
All the internal moving parts of the Marmon motor are
oiled by the justly famous Marmon force feed oiling system.
Quality of Oil.
Some motors use oil only once. The Marmon uses it over
and over, giving greatly increased economy. It is clear that only
the best oil should be used in this way, for a cheap grade of oil
will disintegrate, deposit sediment and cause trouble. Careful
attention to this, and regular draining and flushing of the system
will bring a sure reward in long bearing life and efficiency, saving
expensive repair bills.
Oil Supply.
The reservoir holds 33/4 gallons. Filler is on right front side
of crank case. In filling note that the float gauge is sluggish,
especially in cold weather. To test, unscrew cap and depress
stick. Do not think because the float gauge stem is visible that
there must be sufficient oil in the motor. The cam tunnel and
other oil compartments take up and hold more than a gallon of
oil. This drains back when the motor is stopped and it will show
on the float gauge, but more oil must be added to this for circulation
to make up for the oil held in the cam tunnel and other parts
of the system while motor is running. (You can see how the oil
float gauge stem lowers when the motor is started.) Therefore,
to be sure you have plenty of oil, make it a rule that the float stem
must always stand not more than three-fourths inch from the top
of the glass when the motor is not running.
Marmon41.com
Remember
A full supply of oil in the motor (33/4 gallons) when the float
stern stands at the top of the glass.
The time to refill—when the float stem' is 3/4 inch from the
top. Add at least one gallon of oil.
The danger point—when the float stem is 11/1 inches from top
of glass. Add two gallons of oil immediately.

Cleaning.
In a new motor the oil reservoir should be drained off after
three or four hundred miles of travel. This is accomplished by
removing the plug in the bottom of the reservoir, which is accessible
through a hole in the mud pan. If sediment is noticed in any
quantity, it is a danger sign, and a thorough cleaning of the system
should be made, as described below. If the oil is clear, the
reservoir may be flushed with kerosene and then refilled with
fresh oil.
Overhauling.
A complete overhauling of the circulation system would involve
disassembling the motor. This will rarely be necessary, but
an effective and easy method of cleansing is to lower mud pan and
remove oil base. The reservoir screen and oil pipe can now be
cleaned. In replacing the oil base make sure an oil-tight joint is
secured. The connecting rod bearings and crankshaft oil ways
may be cleaned from below without disassembling motor. Dis=
connect rod hearings, remove nuts from the stud through large
hole in crank pin, and remove stud and cap. Clean out this
large hole and also hole to surface al bearing. Cleaning may be
extended farther, to include pilaw "3" and "4" (Fig. 3), which
may be disconnected and blown out with air.
Irregularities.
Form the habit of noticing the dash pressure gauge frequently.
Failure to register or sudden excessive pressure are
danger signals. Make sure you have sufficient oil. To determine
whether the gauge is damaged, disconnect pressure pipe where
it enters case back of steering column and note whether oil flows
freely. If so, the difficulty is with the gauge, which may be attended
to. later. Sudden high gauge pressure is a sign of a stoppage
in the line, and the system should be cleaned. Be sure dirty
oil has not obstructed the screen.
Have you made out and sent to
us the Owner's Record Card, inside front cover of this
Instruction Book? If not, do it right now.
It is for your own benefit.
28
Operation.
Oil is carried in a reservoir below the sweep of the cranks
and before entering the pump is screened twice. In this reservoir
a gear pump "A" (Fig. 8) driven by spiral gears "B" and "C"
from the cam shaft delivers the oil under pressure through the
main pipe "3" (Fig. 3) and feeders "4" direct to all of the seven
main bearings of the crank shaft. Holes in the hollow crank
Figure 8. Section through center of Motor.
Marmon41.com
Showing main bearing, oil pump, float gauge and pressure adjustment.
shaft register with grooves in the bearings, forcing the oil to flow
through the shaft into the connecting rod bearings and through
tubes "7" along the connecting rods to the piston pin bearings.
Special provision .is made for lubricating the cam shaft and
valve tappets. Oil is delivered to the tunnel in which the cam
shaft is mounted and through which the oil circulates, its only
escape being out through the tappets and into the valve tappet
chamber. From this chamber the oil drains back into the
crank case, the valve tappet chamber being entirely closed except
at the drain points. The tappets are hollow and the valve adjusting
screws are drilled, allowing the oil flowing under pres-
29

A
Figure 9. Oil Regulator Valve and Connections.
30
sure to not only flow through the tappet guides, but through the
tappets, thus supplying a cushion of oil against the lower end of
the valve stems as the valves are raised. The cam gears and
silent chain drive for the magneto shaft also run in a circulating
bath of oil. All oil returns to the reservoir and is used over and
over. This is all clearly illustrated in Fig. 3.
Oil Regulator Valve.
The further development of the oiling system consists in an
oil valve within the oil pump itself, the construction and operatio'n
of which is shown in the attached illustration.
The rod "A" (Fig. 9) is the carburetor throttle control rod,
which is operated by the driver, and the lever "B" is used not
only to open and close the carburetor throttle by means of the
shaft at its center, but also moves the rod "C," which, by turning
a lever "D," raises or lowers the finger "J," which is attached
on the opposite end of the shaft "H," extending inside the crankcase
to the oil pump. As the carburetor throttle is closed, the
finger "J" is thus depressed and the piston valve "K" gradually
opens at bottom, uncovering ports, through which the oil from the
orifice from the gear pump "0" is partially deflected into the
crankcase, reducing the amount of oil that escapes at "M." Thus
the supply of oil automatically is increased and decreased in proportion
to the opening of the carburetor throttle, which means
that the amount of oil supplied is proportional to the power produced.
A spring "L" and the balanced action of the dumb-bell
shaped valve "K" permits the oil to flow freely at high pressure
through the orifice whenever the throttle is open wide.
The adjustment on the oil throttle valve should be made for
extreme low pressure only, the by-pass valve "S" (Fig. 8) being
used to limit the maximum pressure. To assure a proper adjustment
to prevent smoky exhaust at low throttle, the adjustment
"F" may be used. It will be noted that the lever "E" is
rigid on the shaft "H," while the lever "D" is held on the shaft
only by the pressure of the screw "F" and the clamping screw
"G." Therefore, to force the valve "K" farther down for a certain
throttle setting, it is only necessary to loosen the clamp screw
"G" and loosen the lower screw "F" and tighten the upper
screw "F," and vice versa. The low limit of the oil pressure
when the motor is idling should be ordinarily between one-half
and one pound pressure. The maximum pressure is governed by
a valve adjusting screw "S" (Fig. 8) on the top of case between
cylinde.rs in front of oil float gauge. Screwing to the right increases
the pressure and quantity of flow. The pressure required
varies somewhat with the individual motor, but normally may be
fifteen to twenty pounds at a car speed of twenty miles per hour.
31
Marmon41.com

Cooling System
A centrifugal pump forces water through cylinder water
jackets, where water absorbs motor heat and passes to radiator
and is cooled as it settles and returns to pump.
In filling use clean soft water. If hard water is used frequent
flushing will be necessary.
To clean radiator, add one pint of glycerin and enough boiling
water to fill system, and then run motor. Drain out, and flush
with clean water. Radiator may be flushed frequently. The
lower radiator connection may be detached and a stream from a
hose run through. Reversing direction of flow increases efficiency
of cleaning
The Fan is an important factor in cooling. The belt should
always be kept tight enough to prevent slipping (too tight a belt
will wear bearings) by adjustment of its eccentric bracket on
cylinder. Fan hub has ball bearing drive, reducing friction and
wear.
Marmon water consumption is normally low, and symptoms
of overheating rare. Should steam form it is most likely due to
low water, slipping fan belt, or running on retarded spark. If
radiator becomes partially clogged the pump may deliver more
water than the radiator can take and cause escape through the
overflow. This can be corrected by cleaning and reducing the
aperture at radiator outlet. If it is suspected that there is difficulty
in the system, the cylinders, radiator and pump may all be
disconnected and the location of any stoppage easily found.
In cold weather care must be taken to prevent freezing.
Water should be drained off by opening drain cock at base of
pump and bottom of radiator whenever the car is out of service.
When operating in extreme weather use an anti-freezing mixture.
For an anti-freezing mixture, denatured or wood alcohol may
be used. Twenty-five per cent. will reduce the freezing point to
zero, and 40% to 15 degrees below zero. Evaporation will be
almost entirely from the alcohol, and this should be used in refilling
unless there has been a leakage.
The Radiator is mounted on a trunnion and secured by cap
screws. After removing lamp brackets and hood, removal of the
cap screws and disconnecting the water connections permits the
ready removal of the radiator.
Pump and Magneto Drive
Two heavy silent chains, "M" and "N" (Fig. 4), are used to
drive the pump and magneto in the front motor cover. They are
lubricated by the regular motor oil supply and will require no
32
attention for about ten thousand miles running In time a very
slight amount of wear will develop and this can be taken up by
adjustments provided. The position of the stud "P" may be
shifted to any desired position upward and to the left to take up
the correct amount of slack in both chains, even though they do
not wear the same. The stud bracket has slotted supports with
serrated outer surfaces "Q," which correspond with serrated
inner surfaces on the washers "R," so that when the nuts "S"
. are tightened in any position on they cannot slip.
Tire Pump is mounted on a bracket at the left front side
of the crank case, having a gear which may be engaged with a
special gear on the
accessory shaft by
means of a lever.
To pump up a tire,
connect hose to outlet
on top of pump
Double air valves
Gear insuring
Shift
rmw
positive II
operation
Cylinder is
beautifully
machined. Fms
on cylindermean
perfect cooling
Air intake
screen D
Oil Well
Showing
Oil Ring
Pump open at base
33
and to tire valve,
and with the motor
stopped, throw the
gear into engagement.
Start the
motor and run at a
speed of about 500
revolutions per
minute. An empty
tire will be pumped
up in about four
minutes. The pump
should be lubricated
as shown in
Fig. 10 each time it
is used. Four and
one-half inch tires
should be pumped
to 72 pounds. See
"Tires."
Figure 10. Tire Pump.
Caution. When the pump is running the speed of the- motor
must be kept below 500 R. P. M. or the pump will be damaged.
The pump works just as fast when the motor is running slowly.
D
Piston
oiled by
rubbing
against
an oil
soaked
wick .
Oil is
roed
on d
towpp ick
from outside
Marmon41.com
Oil Hole
to Connect.
ing Rod.

Electrical Systems
These systems consist
of magneto, coil, switches
and spark plugs for igniting
the mixture in the engine
; electric motor, switch
and storage battery for
starting the gasoline engine
; electric generator and
regulator for supplying
current ; head, side, tail,
Figure 11. Wire Terminal Connection. tonneau and instrument
lamps with switches ; and
horn; all of which with their appropriate connections are illustrated
in Fig. 12. This equipment (except horn) is supplied entire
by the Bosch Magneto Co. and their numerous branches, distributors
and service stations everywhere are at the disposal of the
Marmon "41" owner for all service in connection with the electrical
equipment of the car. A complete list of these stations is
given herewith for your convenience.
Ignition;
Bosch "Vibrating Duplex" magneto is employed. A special
enclosed type of coil is mounted under the dash cowl, which is in
series with the battery and also with the primary winding of the
magneto. With this system only a single wire runs to the magneto
and no additional timing device is necessary.
When the ignition switch is on battery position (at "B") the
coil receives current from the storage battery, which augments
the natural action of the magneto, giving a good spark even at
very low speeds. The coil is connected so that it will operate over
a wide range of voltages, and provide ignition even though the
battery is so nearly exhausted that the starting motor will barely
turn the engine over. When the starter pedal is released after
the engine starts, the ignition switch should be moved to "M"
for straight magneto ignition. When it is desired to stop the
engine, the whole system is grounded by throwing the switch to
"Off" position. Details of the magneto operation will be found
in the magneto instruction book supplied with each car, or to be
had from Bosch representatives.
Timing.
The magneto should be timed so as to break with a fully
retarded spark when the flywheel indicates "top center." (See
Valve Timing ) The magneto shaft has a cone friction arrange-
34
al
went by which the setting can easily be varied any desired
amount. The factory setting is the best, however, for all around
service. When setting is correct, punch marks on the couplings
are all in line.
Numbering the magneto distributor terminals from left to
right, the spark plugs from front to rear, the connections from
magneto to plugs are as follows :
Terminal No.
To Plug No.
1 1
2 5
3 3
4 6
5 2
6 4
Spark Plugs.
The spark plug gap should be small—about point .032 inch.
This is just the thickness of an ordinary pin, or of ten sheets of
this paper. The cap is threaded for the seven-eighths-inch S. A.
E. standard plugs. In replacing a plug make sure a gasket is
used and the plug screwed down tight, but not too tight or too
much strain will be put upon the spark plug porcelain.
In case of ignition difficulty make sure that the terminals are
securely connected. See "Detecting Faults."
Lighting and Starting.
A 12-volt circuit is employed, having all units, including
lamps of this voltage. This e.m.f. has many advantages, such as
increased lamp efficiency, better generator and motor commutation,
better regulation and better battery conditions.
The one-wire system is employed, the positive battery connection
being grounded through a fuse as shown in Fig. 9. Instead of
relying, however, upon local grounds for each connection, an
armored cable is used which not only serves to protect the wire,
but the metallic armor makes a positive return. A perfect connection
is assured by the ingenious arrangements illustrated in
Fig. 11. Over the cable is placed a sleeve, which is pressed so as
to make a firm mechanical joint, and at the same time a perfect
electrical contact, and this sleeve is in electrical contact with the
outside sleeve which carries the threaded portion, screwing into
the rugged block that contains the insulated member. After this
sleeve is on, there is placed over it an insulated member, which
allows of the wires being opened up and pushed over into a conical
formation. This provides a compression joint—one in which
each individual wire in the stranded cable carries its ratio of
current.
Marmon41.com
35

BOSCH SERVICE
BOSCH BRANCHES'
NEW YORK, Bosch Magneto Company
DETROIT, Bosch Magneto Company
CHICAGO, Bosch Magneto Cnmpany
SAN FRANCISCO, Bosch Magneto Company
TORONTO, Bosch Magneto Company, Limited
BOSCH
ATLANTA, GA., Ozburn Automobile Supply Co.
BALTIMORE, MD., Carl Spoerer's Sons Co.
BINGHAMTON, N. Y., R. W. Whipple
BOSTON, MASS., Motor Parts Co.
BUFFALO, N. Y., Motor Parts Co.
CINCINNATI, 0., Oskamp Auto Supply Co.
CLEVELAND, 0., Pennsylvania Rubber & Supply Co.
DENVER, COLO., Quinn & McGill Motor Supply Co.
DES MOINES, IA., Herring Motor Co.
HONOLULU, T. H., The von Hamm-Young Co.
INDIANAPOLIS, IND., Gus Habich
KANSAS CITY, MO., Kansas City Auto Supply Co.
LOS ANGELES, CAL., E. A. Featherstone
MANILA, P. I., Erlanger & Galinger
Aberdeen, Wash.
Akron, Ohio
Albany, N. Y.
Albany, Ga.
Altoona, Pa.
Amarillo, Texas
Amsterdam, N. Y.
Anaconda, Mont.
Annapolis, Md.
Asstoria, Ore.
Auburn, Me.
Augusta, Me.
Babylon, N. Y.
Bakersfield, Cal.
Bangor, Me.
Bar Harbor, Me.
Belleville, Ill.
Bellingham, Wash.
Birmingham, Ala.
Bloomington, Ill.
Boise, Idaho
Bridgeport, Conn.
Brooklyn, N. Y.
Camden, N. J.
Cape Girardeau, Mo.
Carlsbad, N. Mex.
Carroll, Iowa
Casper, Wyo.
Centralia, Wash.
Charleston, S. C.
Charlotte, N. C.
Chattanooga, Tenn.
Cheboygan, Mich.
Cherokee, Iowa
Cheyenne, Wyo.
Circleville, Ohio
Clarksdale. Miss.
Clearfield, Pa.
Cleveland, Ohio
Cohoes, N. Y.
Colorado Springs, Colo.
Columbia, S. C.
Columbus, Neb.
Columbus, Ohio
Cumberland, Md.
Dallas, Texas
Danville, Va.
Davenport, Iowa
Dayton, Ohio '
Decatur, JD.
Dixon, Ill.
Dothan, Ala.
Dover, N. IL
East St. Louis, Ill.
Elko, Nev.
Ellsworth, Me.
El Paso, Texas
Montreal, Que.
Calgary, Alta.
DISTRIBUTORS
MEMPHIS, TENN., Ozburn Auto Supply Co., Inc.
MILWAUKEE, WIS., Lemke Electric Co.
MINNEAPOLIS, MINN., Western Motor Supply Co.
OMAHA, NEB., Powell Supply Co.
PHILADELPHIA, PA., Motor Parts Co.
PITTSBURGH, PA., Doubleday-Hill Electric Co.
PORTLAND, ORE., Ballou & Wright
RICHMOND, VA., Dallas A. Shafer & Co.
SACRAMENTO, CAL., Kimball-Upson Co.
SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH, Bertram Motor Supply Co.
SAN JUAN, P. R., Pietrautoni & Sojo
SEATTLE, WASH., Ballou & Wright
ST. LOUIS, MO., Phoenix Auto Supply Co.
TOLEDO, 0., W. G. Nagel Electric Co.
BOSCH SUPPLY STATIONS ARE IN THESE CITIES
Elyria, Ohio
Manchester, N. H. ' Reading, Pa.
Englewood, N. J. Manitowoc, Wis. Roanoke, Va.
Erie, Pa.
Marietta, Ohio
Rochester, N. Y.
Eugene, Ore.
Marquette, Mich. Rockford, Ill.
EN :inst.:in, Ill.
Marshfield, Ore. Rock Island, Ill.
E % a iisville,Ind. Marysville, Cal. Rock Springs, Wyo.
E ■ erett , Wash. Mason City, Iowa Saginaw, Mich.
i all Mier, Mass. Mattoon, III.
San Antonio, Tex.
Fargo, N. D.
Medford, Ore.
San Diego, Cal.
Flagstaff, Ariz.
Menominee, Mich. Sanford, Me.
Flushing, N. Y. Milton, Ore.
an Jose, Cal.
Fort Dodge, Ia. Minot, N. D.
Santa Barbara, Cal.
Fort Wayne, Ind. Mitchell, S. D.
Santa Cruz, Cal.
Freeport Ill.
Mobile, Ala.
Saratoga Springs, N. Y.
Fresno, Cal.
Montgomery, Ala. Savannah, Ga.
Galesburg, Ill.
Montrose, Colo. Schenectady, N. Y.
Galveston, Tex. Morristown, N. J. Scranton, Pa.
Geneva, N. Y. Mt. Vernon, N. Y. Sheridan, Wyo.
Glen Cove, N. Y. Muskegon, Mich. Shreveport, La.
Glens Falls, N. Y. Nashua. N. H.
Sioux City, Ia.
Glenwood gprings, Colo. Nashville, Tenn. Sioux Falls, S. D.
Gloucester, Mass. Nebraska City, Neb. South Bend, Ind.
Gloversville, N. Y. Newark City, Neb. Spokane, Wash.
Grand Rapids, Mich. Newark, N. J.
Springfield, Ill.
Great Falls, Mont. New Bedford, Mass. Springfield, Mass.
Green Bay, Wis. Newburgh, N. Y. St. Albans, Vt.
Hanford, Cal.
Newburyport, Mass. Stamford, Conn.
Harrisburg, Pa. New Haven, Conn. Staunton, Va.
Hartford, Conn. New Orleans, La. St. Joseph, Mo.
Hastings, Neb.
Newport News, Va. St. Paul, Minn.
Helena, Mont. , Newport, R. I.
Tacoma, Wash.
Houghton, Mich. New Rochelle, N. Y. Tampa, Fla.
Houston, Texas New York (Bronx), N. Y. Terre Haute, Ind.
Huntington, N. Y. New York (Manhattan) Tonopah, Nev.
Hutchinson, Han. Norfolk, Va.
Trenton, N. J.
Idaho Falls, Idaho Ogden, Utah
Trinidad, Colo.
Jackson, Mich. Oklahoma City, Okla. Troy, N. Y.
Jacksonville, Fla. Olympic, Wash. Tulsa, Okla.
Jersey City, N. J. Ottawa, Ill.
Union Hill, N. J.
Johnstown, Pa. Ottumwa, Iowa Uniontown, Pa.
Joliet, Ill.
Parkersburg, W. Va. Utica, N. Y.
Kalamazoo, Mich. Pendleton, Ore.
Kalispeel, Mont.
Walla Walla, Wash.
Peoria, Ill.
Kankakee, Ill.
Warren, Ohio
Petersburg, Va.
Kingston, N. Y. Phoenix, Ariz.
Washington, D. C.
Knoxville, Tenn. Pittsfield, Mass. Washington C. H., 0.
Lancaster, Pa. - Plainfield, N. J. Waterbury, Conn.
Lawrenceville, Ill. Port Chester, N. Y. Waterloo, Ia.
Lincoln, Neb.
Portland, Me.
Wausau, Wis.
Logan, Utah
Portsmouth, N. II. Wheeling, W. Va.
Logansport, Ind. Portsmouth, Ohio White Plains, N. Y.
Long Branch, N. J. Poughkeepsie, N. Y.
Wichita, Kan.
Lorain, Ohio
Prescott, Ariz.
Louisville, Ky.
Providence, R. L Wilkes-Barre, Pa.
Lynchburg, Va. Provo, Utah
Worcester, Mass.
Lynn, Mass.
Pueblo, Colo.
Yonkers, N. Y.
Macon, Ga.
Quincy, Ill
Youngstown, Ohio
CANADIAN DISTRIBUTORS ARE IN THESE CITIES
St. John, N. B. Vancouver, B. C. Winnipeg, Man.
Ottawa, Ont. Victoria, 13. C. Saskatoon, Sask. .
36
Generator. .
Is a simple shunt wound machine of waterproof construction
obtaining all regulation by means of external appliances. The
amount of iron composing the fields, and the size of windings,
are such as to provide a maximum output, even at very low engine
speeds. The rotating armature, which is carried on ball bearings,
is provided with a fan for purposes of ventilation. The brush
holders and brushes are of,exceptionally large dimensions and the
design and size of the commutator are such that wear at this
point is reduced to a minimum.
It is mounted on the accessory drive shaft, driven through a
flexible coupling. Oil holes under a flap at front and inside the
rear cover should receive a few drops of oil every thousand miles.
No other attention will be required for at least ten thousand miles
running under ordinary circumstances. Then all that should be
required would be a little dressing of the commutator with very
fine sandpaper. Never use emery, for this will cause a . short circuit.
Have such work done only by a capable electrician, preferably
a Bosch or Marmon representative.
Regulation.
An automatic reverse current relay in the switch and meter
box on the dash opens the battery circuit whenever the generator'
is not running, thus preventing an escape of battery current
through the generator. A voltage regulator provides for the constant
maintenance of the correct e.m.f. at all times. This is a
unique device which works with great accuracy' and is largely responsible
for the remarkable uniformity of the system. The regulator
is so constructed that it will maintain a fixed voltage
while carrying the entire lamp load at low motor speeds, and
will not vary when a change is made either in speed or load. The
dynamo carries the entire load and the battery, should it be fully
charged, simply "floats" on the line. This ararngement allows
of the battery being used on at such time as the engine is at rest.
An additional feature is that it is possible to entirely disconnect
the battery and run on the dynamo alone with the same unfluctu--
ating results.
Marmon41.com
The regulation must also take care of the internal conditions
of the battery, irrespective of whether the battery is fully
charged, totally discharged or at any intermediate point on the
gravity line. In other words, if the battery is totally discharged,
the regulation must be such that the generator will not force too
high an amperage into the battery and maintain this fixed amperage
to the detriment of the cells, but must supply current at
the normal rate, "tapering off" the 'charge nears completion.
37

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SIDE LAMP
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SWITCH BOX (-1 ,-, " LAMP
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Figure 12. Model "41" Wiring Complete.
TO
HORN BUT
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This is a characteristic of the Bosch regulation, always maintaining
the battery in the best possible condition.
The regulator will require no attention and must not be
tampered with.
Switch Box.
The generator terminals and lamp and battery wires all lead
into the switch box on the dash, which "contains, besides the regulating
devices, the volt-ammeter and light switch. (The control
connections as now arranged make the special control switch
illusory.)
Terminals 3 and 4 are interconnected, the lead to the junction
box supplies current to the horn, hand crank switch and inspection
lamp socket through a fuse. If this fuse blows out, examine
all leads from junction box for short circuit before replacing the
fuse.
Volt-Ammeter.
Permits a constant check on the operation of the system.
When the lever is thrown to the left, the needle should show
twelve to fifteen volts to the right when engine is running rapidly
or about twelve volts when engine is stopped. Voltage should
always register twelve to fifteen volts to the right.
When the lever is turned to the right to indicate amperes, the
current discharge when engine is not running is about eight amperes
for a full lamp load as shown by the needle turning to the
left, and will vary from this point to eight or ten amperes charge
to the right with a rapidly running motor, no lamp load and a
partially discharged battery. Whenever the needle indicating
amperes is to the right of zero, the batter is being charged. Whenever
the needle is to the left of zero, it is being discharged.
Normal conditions will soon become apparent and abnormal
conditions readily noted. The condition of the battery is an
equally important key to the working of the system, which is to
be tested as described fully under "Storage Battery" below.
Marmon41.com
Lamps.
The head lamps are specially designed to enable the driver to
see plainly both sides of the road from immediately in front of the
car to a considerable distance ahead. They eliminate the blinding
back glare 'and there are no individual shafts of light, patches or
shadows to hamper the vision.
The bulbs are special metal filament of Bosch make, rigidly
held in place at the proper focus with a bayonet connection. The
lamp door is locked to prevent tampering, but can be unlocked
with the switch key, to replace the bulb. The head lamp bulbs
are of 25 candle power and.all other bulbs 8 candle power. Thus
38 39

only two sizes are required and an extra one of each, also extra
fuse, will be found in the tool equipment.
Figure 13. Section of Starter Motor.
The small tube lamp bulbs may be replaced by unscrewing
the cap, but in so doing care must be exercised not to turn the
whole lamp, as this will twist the wire and cause a short circuit.
Starter Motor.
Is strapped firmly to the crank case. It will be well to see
that the screws are, held tightly in place occasionally. This is
simply a powerful series-wound motor having armature and shaft
which, with the gear on the end, can slide endwise. Normally the
motor is disengaged, but when the starter pedal is partially depressed
the current flows through a resistance to field and armature,
causing the armature to be "sucked" toward the front (of
the car), and also to be turned slightly. This causes the gear to
engage with the large fly-wheel gear. Then when the starter
pedal is fully depressed the full battery current causes the motor
to rotate the engine. As soon as the gasoline engine fires, the
counter torque set up in the electric motor causes the gear to slip
out of mesh. Then the starter pedal should be promptly released.
The motor will require a little oil in the oilers and the commutator.
and brushes might need cleaning in time. But this
should be done at a Bosch station. The starter switch will require
only a little oil about the stein occasionally.
Have you made out and sent to
us the Owner's Record Card, inside front cover of this
Instruction Book? If not, do it right now.
It is for your own benefit.
40
Ground Fuse.
If lamps or horn will not operate except when engine is running,
it is a sign that the ground fuse on the right forward side
of dash under the hood has blown out. If you cannot locate any
short circuit, replace the fuse. If this second fuse burns out it is
a sure sign of a short circuit and the condition should be reported
to Bosch or Marmon representatives at once. It will not damage
the system to use the lamp and horn while running, but tin' battery
will soon run down, as it cannot be charged, so do not delay
having the matter attended to at once.
Horn.
Should have attention mentioned in special direction book
supplied with each instrument.
UNSCREW
THIS CAP
FILL UP TO
THIS POINT
Marmon41.com
DONT
FILL ABOVE
THIS POINT
Figure 14. Section of Storage Battery.
Arrowhead indicates proper level
of fluid.
Figure 15. Hydrometer Syringe .
or "Chargeometer."
Storage Battery.
On many cars this important member is robbed of its possible
life of usefulness; it is permitted to sicken and die simply through
failure to receive the nourishment essential to its life. The few
necessary precautions are outlined below.
First, battery fluid covering the plates 4 as necessary to your
battery as oil to your motor. "Boiling" and evaporating constantly
lower the fluid level, which must regularly be brought up
to the top of the plates. Never add any fluid except pure distilled
41

water. Get this from a druggist or use melted artificial ice, and
carry it in a bottle (use no metal retainers). City, spring or well
waters contain injurious chemicals. Each week unscrew the vent
plugs and add enough distilled water to bring fluid to the bottom
of the inside cover.
The second essential is that the battery be not allowed to become
completely discharged, and above all not allowed to stand
in a discharged or partially discharged condition. If at any time
your lights become dim, and starter sluggish, it is a sure sign of
battery weakness. Give the battery an extra charge by opening
throttle one inch and letting motor run at goodly speed while the
car stands with lights out for three or. four hours, and you will
doubtless note an improvement.
The cause of a battery running down in service may be due
to the condition of the battery or the electric generator, but it is
more likely to be simply caused by using up more electric current
than the generator can supply. This is almost sure to be the case
if the car is used only for short runs or mostly at night or left
standing for long periods with lights on.
Hydrometer Syringe is furnished with the car and should be
used regularly. With this you can draw up a quantity of the
battery fluid and measure its specific gravity which indicates the
state of charge, the fluid in a fully charged battery standing at
1.285; 1.250 is one-half charged, while a gravity of 1.150 indicates
a completely run-down condition. Of course, this assumes that
the original quantity of acid is still present and that the fluid is
at the proper level. If the solution has leaked or spilled and has
• not been properly replaced, the hydrometer syringe cannot give a
true condition of the state of affairs.
If test shows battery below 1.250 run the engine as described
above until charge rises to 1.285. If gravity does not rise see that
battery connections are all tight and generator is charging. This
can be tested with the ammeter.
If by inspecting and testing the battery you notice that there
is any leakage other than what may come out of the vent plugs
at the, top, examine the battery carefully for broken jars, which
will have to be replaced; or if you find that one cell shows 0.025
difference in gravity from the others, especially if this difference
is continued and increasing, this should be brought to the attention
of the battery makers or representatives.
If the car is not it service for a week or more, remember your
battery will require attention, as any battery gradually discharges
on standing. Leave the battery with someone who can
42
have it charged periodically. Do not place confidence in so-called
battery men in correcting troubles, but get in touch with the
makers or our own representatives. The Willard Storage Battery
Company, Cleveland, 0., have service stations all over the country,
whose names and addresses we or they can supply. They also have
the following factory branches at your service.
NEW YORK, 136 West 52d Street.
CHICAGO, 2241 South Michigan Avenue.
DETROIT, 1191 Woodward Avenue.
INDIANAPOLIS, 318 North Illinois Street.
SAN FRANCISCO, 243 Monadnock Building.
Special Battery Pointers.
Keep storage battery screwed down tight.
If battery is removed, handle it very carefully to avoid breaking
jars.
Do not drag a battery across a floor with one handle.
Avoid overfilling, as acid may spill out and cause damage.
Neutralize escaped acid with caustic soda or ammonia.
Keep dirt, dust and especially all metallic matter away from
a battery.
Do not use an open flame about a battery.
Marmon41.com
Have you made out and sent to
us the Owner's Record Card, inside front cover of this
Instruction Book? If not, do it right now.
It is for your own benefit.
43

2. Transmission of Power
The clutch, change-speed gear (or "transmission"), univer-.
sals, bevel gears, differential and driving axles, are the parts
employed in transmitting motor power to the rear wheels.
The Clutch permits the motor to run free or to propell the
ear through the transmission mechanism as desired. The normal
engagement of the cone within the flywheel is by a spring and
thrust bearing encircling the crank shaft extension. Depressing
the clutch pedal moves the cone back free from the flywheel in
released position. The clutch cone is faced with a friction fabric
to which no powder, fluid, or other substance should be applied.
The surface is best just as it is. An oily fabric may be cleaned
with gasoline and a steel brush, but will never regain its original
qualities.
On account of the construction of this clutch, no adjustment
for easy engagement is ever necessary.
Clutch Brake governs the time required to stop the clutch
rotation when disengaged, by a disc coming in contact with a
CRANK
SHAFT
PILOT SHAFT
BUSHING
WO 10 V.
CLUTCH SPRING
FLY WHEEL
CLUTCH FACING
CLUTCH CONE
LUTCH HOUSING
PLUG
"/„Afie
Or' ETAINER 411111
:1E4 THRUST BEARING
CLUTCH SPRING NUT
CLUTCH RELEASE GREASE CUP
CLUTCH RELEASE YOKE
sNvx""
RELEASE BALL BEARING
Figure 16. Marmon "41" Chtikh
44
LUTCH BRAKE DISC
FELT WASHERS
UN IVER5AL JOINT
FILLER 'PLUG
leather pad. If it is necessary to shift gears very rapidly in order
to prevent clashing, the clutch brake stud may be moved back,
giving a less severe action. If the clutch tends to "spin," delaying
shifts without clashing, the pad may be "set up" in the same
way.
If it is found necessary to disassemble the clutch, proceed as
follows:
First remove the clutch pedal quill. In disassembling simply
disconnect the circle of bolts on the rear flange at the transmission,
also those on the flange of the Spicer joint, and this will permit
you to remove the slip joint as a whole. Next disconnect the
circle of bolts about the clutch cone and move back and out the
throwout portion of the clutch as a unit. Both of these assemblies
may readily be disassembled after removing, if necessary.
The nut on the pilot shaft may now be removed and the
thrust bearing and spring taken out, after which the clutch cone
can be lifted back and out.
Change-Speed Gear or "Transmission"
A characteristic of the gasoline motor is that it, produces
much greater power at the higher speeds than at low speeds. Too
heavy a load at a low motor speed will cause it to stop or "stall"
when the same load at a high motor speed will be carried easily.
The change speed gear. by increasing the ratio of motor speed to
wheel speed, increases the effective power for starting, hard pulling,
hill clinibing, etc. It also provides for the very slow running
and reversing.
•
The main drive gear is carried on a shaft which turns with the motor
when the clutch is engaged. This gear is always in Mesh with a larger gear
on the counter shaft below. The counter shaft extends rearward and carries
three other gears of varying size. Above the countershaft is a squared shaft
continuing the direction of the main drive gear shaft, but free to move independent
of it. This squared shaft carries two gears with squared holes which
must turn with the shaft but which may slide forward and back upon it.
The large sliding gear. is for low and reverse speeds and the smaller gear for
intermediate and high. "Neutral" is shifting lever position when both these
gears are riding free in the space between their respective engaged. positions.
When the operator throws the lever into low speed position a finger forces the
larger gear to slide into mesh with a small gear on the countershaft. The
square drive shaft then revolves much more slowly than the motor, giving
great power but•little speed to the rear wheels. intermediate speed causes
the other gear to mesh with a larger countershaft gear, giving more speed.
For high speed, this gear slides forward, engaging a clutch on the main drive
gear direct, thus Making the drive shafts virtually into one continuous shaft.
For reverse, the large sliding gear is made to engage a small idler gear, which'
meshes with the countershaft instead of directly on the Countershaft gear,
thus changing its direction.
It will be seen that the whole drive system from motor to wheels, from a
control standpoint, is in three independent sections, with the two joints between
them at the cliitch and gear case respectively. The center section must
Marmon41.com
45

ROD COVER PLATE
SLIDING GEA
GEAR alIFT
DRIVE aAFT
CG
LU
CD
C
LOW a REVERSE IDLER GEAR
be free to move with the rear whenever the rear connection is changed, as in
shifting gears. Hence the necessity of throwing out the clutch whenever the
gears are changed. Letting in the clutch with the lever "in (Year" connects the
remaining link and permits the motor power to be applied to the, rear wheels.
A thorough understanding of this point will make every characteristic control
operation perfectly clear. For instance, it will explain why it is necessary to
wait for the center section to slow down slightly in shifting "up," and why
speeding up the motor with clutch re-engaged when gear lever is coming
through neutral makes a perfect shift when "stepping down."
The transmission will rarely acquire any attention other than
lubrication, but if adjustment or inspection are necessary, they
may best be left to a competent mechanic, preferably a Marmon
dealer.
Gears may be inspected by simply removing floor board, unscrewing
cap screws and lifting off cover plate. For a more extensive
examination the transmission should be removed from the
car. Block up under transmission, disconnect brake rod, remove
front and rear flange connections, front support strap, rear support
bolts; the transmission is then free. After removing cover,
drain lubricant through plug at rear and inspect for extraneous
matter. Clean transmission with gasoline.
To remove drive shaft remove nuts and work out .rear plate.
Lift out square shaft, lift out sliding gears from top. Next remove
yoke shafts and yokes. To remove countershaft unscrew
idler shaft and remove idler gear, then take out adjustable end
plate with bearing retainer and work countershaft up and out.
Bearings will not require adjustment, and turning end nut
with a spanner wrench will permit tightening to prevent oil leaks.
Universal Joints.
The slip joint between clutch and transmission and the universals
on the propeller shaft are of similar construction, requiring
little attention. They should be 'kept about two-thirds full
Marmon41.com
FLAX /WINNE
ouren CURIOS il11'
IMMUNE ADJUSTING NUT
1
FELT WANNER
\.% '13 Aill \.. 1
■ ( Vi)// A ,i M \
r
fia11 ____
II"
INNING SCREW
OUST CAr
COTTER FIN
J.■..
EMEAEC MCLE PLUG
Figure 18. Universal Joint.
Figure 17. Marmon "41" Transmission.
46
47

of good soft grease free from grit or acid. After about 1,000 miles
running the outer casing may require a single adjustment to take
up the initial wear in the flax packing. Loosen the "binding
screw" and turn the "casing adjustment nut" until the outer
casing is as tight as may be rotated readily with both hands (without
tools). Then be sure to tighten the binding screw. Too loose
an adjustment will allow escape of lubricant and too tight will
cause heating.
When the cards repainted care should be taken to keep paint
away from the ball near the flax packing. If joint is disassembled
be sure not to have the oil hole opposite one of the lugs, or it
cannot receive lubricant.
Bevel Drive Gears
Power comes to the rear axle in the same rotary form that it
comes to the propeller wheel of a motor boat. But in the axle
of a motor car the power must be 8\61 (died at right angles to the
propeller shaft and so divided that it will rotate both rear wheels
with equal force. At the sa me 11»le 1lie sl o of rotation must be
reduced. This is accomplished by a bevel pinion and the differential
gears within the bevel driving gear. "Gear ratio" is the
measure of reduction of rotary motion from propeller shaft to
axle shafts. It is the ratio or relation of the number of teeth in
the bevel drive gear to the number of teeth in the pinion.
The pinion is on the end of a short shaft supported by two
tapered roller bearings. The bevel drive gear, carrying within it
the differential gears, is supported by two bearings seated in the
"carrier" or center housing of the rear axle.
Bevel Gear Adjustment. Unless the gears are in exactly the
correct position, undue wear and noise may result. Although
ample means of procuring the correct position is provided, adjustment
may be necessary after long , use. Such adjustment
should be attempted only by a competent mechanic.
The pinion may be moved back into deeper mesh by turning
the adjusting nut about the pinion bearing to the left, or forward
by turning to the right. To do this, loosen nut No. 1- (Fig. 19),
then nut No. 2. Remove cover No. 3 and loosen clamp bolt No. 4.
Turn adjusting nut No. 5 one slot in the desired direction. Tighten
nuts No. 2 and No. 1, so that the shaft runs free without end play.
Then test it. Various adjustments may be tried until the quietest
position is determined, after which the cover is replaced and the
clamp nut tightened.
48
To adjust the lateral position of the bevel gear, first remove
the lock wire running through the differential bearing cap-screws
and back the cap-screws one-half turn. Then remove the lock
from right adjusting ring No. 6 and loosen the ring by turning its
top forward. Turning the left adjusting ring No. 7 the same way
will then tighten the adjustment and move the gear to the right
into deeper mesh. Movement of the two rings in the other direction
will have the opposite effect.
Proper amount of back lash should be approximately .005
inch, or barely perceptible looseness. In testing clearance be sure
grease does not affect the measurement. When proper adjustment
is made, make certain that the locking pins are back in the
slots of the rings, tighten the cap screws and replace the locking
wires.
To take up looseness in the bearings on the pinion shaft,
loosen nut No. 1, tighten up on nut No. 2 enough to let the shaft
Marmon41.com
Figure 19. Rear Axle Housing showing Drive Gears.
49

un free without end play, back off one-quarter turn and tighten
up nut No. I. If noisy gears result, adjust as directed above.
If gears are so far out of mesh that no results can be obtained
through the method described above or new gears have to be
placed in the axle, remove peep hole cover No. 8 for observation,
and set the gears with backs flush, as a starting point, and proceed
as above.
The Differential Gear is the mechanism within the. ring (or
main bevel) gear which allows one rear wheel to travel faster
than the other, while maintaining the average speed the same as
that of the ring gear. This prevents strains and uneven tire wear
in turning corners.
The differential mechanism consists of a spider having four
pins in a plane parallel to the rear wheels. Each pin carries a
small bevel pinion. Bevel gears at either side of these mesh with
all four pinions and contain splined hollows into which the axle
drive-shafts fit. If the resistance to the two rear wheels is the
same, the pull on each side of the four pinions is the same and the
gears all move around together without any motion relative to
each other. But if one wheel tends to turn faster the four pinions
will revolve somewhat, giving a greater speed to that wheel and
lesser speed to the other.
To remove the differential, remove the large plate on the rear
of the axle housing. To get at this, do not remove gasoline tank,
but jack up between springs. Place a pan or bucket underneath
the axle to catch the oil or grease when the cover is removed.
Remove the hub caps and pull the floating drivers part way out,
sufficient to clear the journals of the differential. Remove the
nuts on the caps over the bearing on either side of the differential.
The differential can then be lifted out. Inspect the differential
housings carefully to see that all bolts are tight, and examine the
bearings.
It is possible also to remove the bevel pinion and differential
carrier with or without the differential from the forward side by
disconnecting the drive at the rear universal flange, removing the
torque bar and unscrewing the nuts about the front side of the
center casting. This permits an inspection of the bevel drive and
differential assembly just as it appears inside the housing.
The Driving Axles carry the power from the differential
bevel gears to the rear wheels. To remove, use clamp supplied,
across wheel, screwing bolts into tapped holes in the axle flange.
In replacing do not omit part "U" (Fig. 24).
50
3. Control Systems
Steering Gear
The Steering Column contains five concentric tubes with respective
connections for the four controls at the wheel. Through
the center, runs the horn wires, surrounded in order by tubes for
the throttle, spark, friction ring (stationary), steering wheel and
outer shell. On the lower end of the steering shaft is a worm, provided
with thrust bearings, which turns the worm gear operating
the steering crank shaft. If end play develops in steering shaft,
the lower plate may be taken off and shims removed. See Fig. 20.
The Reach Rod is simply a connecting link from the steering
Marmon41.com
Figure 20. Steering Column and Wheel.
51

crank ball to the left knuckle arm ball "K" (Fig. 23). The springs
holding the sockets against the ball. joints may be tightened by
turning down the end nut one-half turn and replacing cotter pin.
Remove the leather boots of the steering connections occasionally,
clean the parts thoroughly and pack with grease. Water and grit
will work into the leather boots, and to avoid undue wear they
should be removed and cleaned occasionally.
If the wheels should turn further to one way than the other,
the throw of steering knuckles may be regulated.by the adjustable
stops "L." If the front wheels should be thrown out of true.
the cross rod may be adjusted so that they "toe-in," until the rims
are one-quarter inch to one-half inch closer together at the front
than -at the rear of the wheels, to give the best action in steering
and avoid tire wear.
Brakes
The Marmon "41' has two powerful brakes operating
against 17-inch brake drams rigidly attached to each rear wheel.
Heat resisting friction hrie linings are ground to a perfect surface
to engage the accurately =chilled drum. These brakes are
easy of adjustment, but are proporly set at the factory and should
require little adjustment sev era I thousand miles.
The actions extend from the pedal and hand lever respectively
back to equalizers, thence through a cross shaft to right
and left brake rods connecting to levers on the rear axle. The
cross shaft is in line with the front spring bolt so that deflection
of springs has no effect upon the brakes.
When brakes will not hold it does not necessarily mean that
the bands need adjusting. Oil or grease May cover the friction
surfaces. Before jumping at the conclusion that the bands need
new linings take off the wheels and examine the asbestos. If
lubricant has saturated the linings wash off the grease with gasoline
or kerosene.
As brake linings wear it becomes desirable to adjust the
brakes in order to get that perfect action so necessary to safety
and satisfactory service. But failure of the brakes to hold as
securely as is desirable—note this fact carefully—may be due to
insufficient travel of the rods connecting the brakes with the foot
pedal or hand lever, forward. Dragging may be due to the same
cause. The remedy for either of these troubles should first be
sought by lengthening or shortening the rods. Until after this is
done no adjustments should be made in the brakes themselves.
External Brake.
First of all put jacks under the rear axlq, being careful to
have them press up against the pads made for this purpose as an
52
extension of the brake support casting, never against the truss
rod. Raise both rear wheels off the ground.
Next, put all the brakes on both sides of the axle in a complete
" off " position.
Before making any adjustments of the brake band make
sure that stop-screw "E" (Fig. 21) is so adjusted against the
housing that the clearance between lever "M" and the support
indicated by circle "N" is about 1/16 inch when the brake is in
"off" position.
It is very important to make the following adjustments in
such manner and degree that when completed and the brake is
applied full force, the imaginary line X—Y running over pin "0"
Figure 21. External Brake.
and under pin "P" will stand about as shown in the illustration.
This is necessary to insure proper toggle action by lever "M."
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Begin at the rear of the brake by removing cotter pin "B"
(Fig. 21), and turning the adjusting screw "A" until the clearance
between the drum and the brake-band lining at this point is
the least possible without the drum touching when it revolves.
Try 1/64-inch clearance to start and increase it if necessary only
enough to allow all parts of the drum to clear as it revolves. Then
replace cotter pin "B."
We are now ready to adjust the lower half of the brake band.
Loosen jam-nut "C" and turn stop-nut "D" up or down the
stem until all parts of the drum just clear the brake-band lining,
say about 1/64 of an inch. When this proper clearance has been
53

obtained turn jam-nut "C" tightly against stop-nut "D" to
lock it.
Now for the upper half of the brake-band. Get the same
bare clearance all around the drum by turning nut "F," being
sure that it is always turned to a place where the groove "G" in
its under surface fully engages the rib on the top of the fitting,
thus automatically locking the adjustment.
Internal Brakes.
It is necessary in making internal adjustments to remove the
wheel, carrying with it the brake drum. It is very important in
returning the wheel to properly adjust the tapered roller bearings
Figure 22. Internal Brake.
so that they will be neither too tight, so the wheel will not turn
easily, nor too loose, so there will be end play. To get the adjustment
just right see directions under "Front Wheels," page 58.
Slight wear of the brake-band lining can ordinarily be taken
up by moving brake shaft lever forward one notch.
For more brake-band lining than can be taken up by this
method put jacks under the rear axle, being careful to have them
press up against the pads made for this purpose, never against
the truss rods. Raise both rear wheels off the ground.
Next, put all the brakes on both sides of the axle in a complete
"off" position.
54
Now, if the adjustment is merely to take up for wear of
I he brake lining in service it is only necessary to (1) remove the
wheel which also removes the brake drum; (2) remove cotter pin
"B" (Fig. 22), give screw "A" two turns to the right (i. e., in a
clockwise direction), and replace pin "B"; (3) loosen screws
"C" "C," give cam-plates "D" "D" one-half turn outward
-(i. e., to the left or counter clockwise), and tighten screws
Put the wheel back on and try the brake in "off" position
for a bare yet sure clearance, so it will not drag. Try it in "on"
position for holding power. If greater clearance is required remove
the wheel and partially reverse the adjustments detailed in
the preceding paragraph. If still more holding power is desired
and there is some clearance yet to spare in the "off" position
remove the wheel and repeat the adjustments to a partial extent.
Adjusting After Replacements.
After replacement of the brake-band lining or some part that
has been damaged by accident it may be necessary to make more
elaborate adjustments than are required when merely compensating
for wear of the lining. For these adjustments it is best to
use a dummy or skeleton drum; that is, one with part of its outer
flat surface cut away to give ready access to the interior.
Garage men who have enough of such work to warrant it
usually have, or can obtain, a dummy drum. It is a great time
saver. But by removing and replacing the wheel a few times the
same results can be obtained by "cut and try" and the following
direCtions, based on the possession of such drum, will be a true
guide to that method as well.
With both rear wheels off the ground and all the brakes on
both sides of the car in a 'complete "off" position, remove the
wheel and insert the dummy drum in the place occupied by the
drum on the wheel just removed.
Marmon41.com
Begin at the rear of the brake by removing cotter pin "B."
Turn screw "A" in or out until the clearance between the drum
and the brake-band lining at this point is the least possible without
the drum touching when it revolves. Try 1/64-inch clearance
to start and increase it if necessary only enough to allow all parts
of the drum to clear as it revolves. Then replace cotter pin "B."
Next adjust both upper and lower halves of the. brake band
by loosening screws "C" "C" and turning plates "D" "D" in or
55

out until all parts of the brake band lining just clear the drum
by about 1/64 inch. Then tighten screws "C" "C."
To determine whether the brake band lining bears against
the drum all around set the brakes, not too tight, and feel for
any openings between the drum and the brake-band lining with
a thin piece of metal. Do this from the inner side of the drum.
After completing these adjustments of the brake-band turn
cam-shaft with your hands (top of shaft forward) until the brake-
. band lining barely clears the drum, allowing the wheel to turn
freely. With the driver's foot pedal or hand operating lever in
"off" position adjust the length of the brake rod so that lever
will stand in a nearly vertical position (leaning slightly backward).
Then tighten nut.
In replacing the wheel be sure to properly adjust the bearings
according to the instructions given on page 60.
4. Vehicle Suspension
• To properly support the motor and body and at the same time
to maintain their correct relation to the running gear is one of the
most important problems of automobile design. The frame and
what it carries must be rigid and strong and yet must be cushioned
from the shocks of the road; at the same time all the connections
to the axles, such as springs, steering rod, power drive
and brake rods must functionate perfectly, no matter what twists
and strains may occur. All these points have been beautifully
worked out on the Marmon "41."
The Frame has two heavy pressed steel channels extending
the full length of the car from the horn supporting front spring
bolt to the extra tire carrier at the rear. Several cross members
provide rigidity and support the various units. See Fig. 2.
The Springs are of special alloy steel, carefully proportioned
to suit the load, to be carried, with a view of obtaining the maximum
of easy riding qualities, and have self-lubricating spring
leaves.
The front springs are semi-elliptic, 2 by 39 inches. The rear
springs are three-quarters elliptic, scroll end, 214 by 57 inches,
and are underslung. All spring bolts are large diameter (threequarter
inch), and the spring eyes are equipped with graphite
and bronze bushings with flanged ends to take care of side thrusts
and enclosed with dust-tight washers. Oil cups are provided
to enhance the efficiency of these graphite bushings. The ends of
the spring leaves themselves have slight depressions forged in
them which are filled with a grease that lubricates the springs
over many months.
Deflection of the front springs does not affect the steering,
causing wabbling wheels on rough roads, because the two arcs
centering at each rear reach rod connection and front spring bolt
neutralize each other. The rear ends of the front springs are carried
on substantial flexible brackets. Additional refinement to
the springs is the elimination of the center bolt holding the spring
leaves together, as in the ordinary springs. The rear end is also
provided with shock absorbers and rebound straps. The front
bolt of the rear spring takes the car drive, and the unusually large
and rigid supports at centers and rear discount side sway.
A great deal of thought has been given to the spring suspension
of Model "41," with the result that we have obtained extremely
easy riding qualities which makes for the comfort of the
passengers and adds to the life of the tires. The car tracks true,
lays well to the road and handles beautifully at all speeds.
Marmon41.com
Have you made out and sent to
us the Owner's Record Card, inside front cover of this
Instruction Book? If not, do it right now.
It is for your own benefit.
56
57

Front Axle is a heavy "I" beam drop forging having a large
clevis at each end. The steering knuckle supporting the front
wheel bearings comes between the arms of this clevis which, with
the king bolt, forms a vertical hinge or pivot on which the wheels
move in changing the direction of the car. The thrust due to the
weight of the car is borne by a large tapered roller bearing. The
Figure 23. Left steering knuckle and front wheel bearings.
cross rod connecting the two knuckles has large devises. Adjustable
stops are provided to limit the motion of the steering.
An extremely high degree of safety is maintained throughout the
construction, which will require no attention but lubrication for
thousands of miles of normal travel.
To remove the steering knuckle, jack up the axle, disconnect
the cross rod and the reach rod, take out taper pin "A" (Fig. 23),
remove cotter and nut "B," lift out king pin "C." In reassembling
turn up nut "B" only far enough to prevent slight end play
in the king pin. Otherwise it will bind the bearing.
Front Wheels are supported by two roller bearings, one on
either end of the steering knuckle arm. The hub forms a greasepacked
housing, providing lubrication.
To remove the front wheel while leaving the steering knuckle
in place, first take out screws "G" to free grease retainer "F."
Remove the hub cap, cotter and nut "H," and washer "J." By
working the wheel back and forth with an outward pressure,
bearing "D" will come off its spindle, freeing-the wheel.
58
Adjusting Wheel Bearings. In replacing, pack with grease
and turn up nut "H" until the wheel binds, revolving the wheel a
few times to take up back lash. Then relieve one-fourth turn to
give 1 he bearings proper clearance. Test by seeing that the wheel
runs free. With the proper adjustment by grasping opposite
spokes in a vertical line and pushing on one and pulling on the
other, play will be barely perceptible. When you have the adjustment
just right lock the nut and replace cap.
Rear System,
The rear axle housing construction
follows the Marmon
precedent, having two pressed
steel sections welded together.
It performs the important function
of supporting the load on
the rear wheels, carrying the
driving members (bevel gears,
differential and axle shaft) in a
bath of grease, and also carries
the brakes. It is made up as a
complete 'unit with these parts,
and may be removed if desired
by disconnecting the torque bar,
the flange at the rear universal,
brake rods, shock absorbers, rebound
straps and springs. Further
disassembling of driving
units, adjustment of brakes or
wheel bearings may now be done
as directed elsewhere.
, N451""
*pa
Torque Bar,
As power from the motor
tends to make the rear wheels
Figure 24. Vertical section through
revolve, the axle housing naturally
tends to revolve in the
wheel bearings.
rear wheel. Showing brakes and
opposite direction. The long
"torque" arm takes care of this "torque," or tendency to revolve.
It does not take any driving or side sway stress, as these
are efficiently cared for by the springs, as described on page 56.
A long pin or swivel at the rear end joins the torque bar to the
axle housing, rigidly for vertical or rotary motion, but flexible
sidewise. The ball which terminates the forward end of the
torque bar is carried in a vertical tube which contains cups above
and below held against the ball by powerful coil springs. This
Marmon41.com
59

flexible universal joint automatically cushions the stresses of sudden
axle torque. The vertical tube is itself mounted on a cross
bar of the frame, which may revolve slightly to prevent strains..
Rear Wheels are supported on two tapered roller bearings.
These bearings transmit the weight of the car to the housing only,
the axles being of full floating type transmitting power to the
wheels through driving flanges just within the hub cap. If it is
desired to remove the wheel 'or adjust the bearings, remove the
hub cap, draw out the axle shaft, back off lock nut "V" (Fig. 21),
slide off washer "W" and unscrew nut "X." Then proceed as
for front wheels described on page 58/.
Tires and Rims
Rims are demountable, quick-detachable type providing easiest
possible changing of tires as described below. A spare demountable
rim is supplied with the car and this should be carried
on the rear carriers assembled with an inflated tire all ready to be
applied when necessary. See Fig. 25.
To Demount Rim simply jack up wheel, loosen, slide down,
and tighten free from rim each of the eight clamps. With the
valve at the top of the wheel slide off the lower side of the tire,
rim and all, then lift, si might up between the valve stems. In
remounting reverse this process, applying a little oil to the contacts
to facilitate next removal. Be sure to see that locking ring
is in place.
To Change the Tire itself on the demountable rim is also a
simple matter and may be done if desired without removing the
rim from the wheel. First remove dust cap and release valve,
permitting the air to escape. Then push the valve stem up into
the tire to release the spreader inside the casing. Push in the
clincher side ring near the end of the locking ring. At one end
of the locking ring you will notice a small retaining pin and near
it a slot. Any thin, flat tool inserted in this slot will loosen the
locking ring and permit the tire to come 'off. Lift tire off rim the
same way as when lifting demountable rim and tires from the
wheel. Be sure that the valve sleeve is always in place, as this is
the essential part which makes it impossible for a tire to be
thrown and also excludes Moisture.
Tires are often the motorist's bug-bear, but if proper care
supplements the remarkable tire economy inherent in the Marmon,
the results will be very gratifying.
An important caution is to see that tires are always fully inflated.
The proper gauge pressure for 41/2-inch tires is 72 pounds
per square inch, but the rule that the tire must always show just
barely perceptible flattening under its load is a good check on the
60
gauge. Running. tires too soft increases the chance of blow-oUt.
A tire can be pumped up too hard, but this is so rarely the case
that the caution should always he in the other direction. This is
made easy by use Of the tire puuap on the motor, use of which is
described on page •33.
Tires should be frequently inspected and always kept in good
repair. Any considerable cut or puncture should he vulcanized at
once. Oil and grease are particularly hard on rubber, and the
tire should he kept free from them. Moisture is injurious to the
interior of casings, and in washing, tires should be pumped up
tight and valve stems closed. Casing's should he kept away from
extreme heat. If the car is to be laid up any considerable length
of time, jack up wheels and relieve tire pressure.
Q, O CL
RIM
FE LLCM
BAND
WASHER
BOLT
VALVE
SLEEVE
SPREADER
OUST CAP --11-1
4./Ar Apim
:0L
44ft
11"1 1.1
CLINCHER
SIDE
RING
',al
CLAMP
CLAMP BRACKET
LOCKING
RING
CLAMPING
RING
Marmon41.com
Figure 25. Demountable Rim.
The way the car is driven also has an important bearing on
tire service. Riding in car tracks, over sharp obstructions, turning
corners at high speed, sudden starting or hard application of
the brakes, and long-continued fast driving are causes of extreme
tire wear, usually avoidable.
Tire manufacturers have literature, describing care and repair
of tires, which they will supply upon application, together
with any special information which may be required.
Shock Absorbers are fastened between the frame and front
and rear axles as auxiliaries to the regular springs of the car ;
they keep the springs within their normal working limits and
control sudden spring deflection and rebounds by means of fric-
I ion discs.
61

The best results are secured only when the adjustment is
correct, and this point deserves some attention. Each shock
absorber has three frictional points, as follows : One at each of
the ends of the arms and the third where these arms join. The
adjustment is made at the latter or main bearing point, where a
dial and pointer are employed to indicate the amount of tension.
The original adjustment of the shock absorber requires a 26-
pound pull on a spring balance scale to move the arms, and they
are set in this way with the indicator pointing at zero.
It can be readily determined at any time as to the tension on
the shock absorbers, and care should be taken to have the adjustment
identical for each.
The right degree of tension for use on the Marmon can only
be determined by experiment to find the point of easiest riding ;
that is, beyond the original adjustment of 26 pounds tension, with
the indicator pointing at zero.
To increase the tension, the nut (which is just above the
pointer) should be turned with a wrench to the right (or clockwise)
; to decrease the tension, the nut should be turned to the
left (Or counter clockwise). As the pointer moves with the nut,
the increase or decrease, as the case may be, is shown on the dial.
It is, as a rule, desirable to have a greater tension on the two
rear shock absorbers than on the two front absorbers, because the
rear springs of the car are generally more powerful and active
than those on the front. It is most important that the tension of
both rear absorbers be identical. This holds true for the two
front absorbers as well.
When the shock absorbers have been adjusted they will require
no further attention for many thousand miles of actual road
work, the five-prong spring compression washer taking up any
little wear automatically. In the course of time, when the wear
on the friction discs becomes
a little greater than
771
the tension of the compensating
spring washers,
about a quarter of a turn
of each of the adjusting
nuts will recompress the
compensating washers and
restore the shock absorbers
to their normal efficiency.
Thus one, or perhaps
two, adjustments,
each requiring but a few
minutes to make, will
serve the average season.
Figure 26. Shock Absorber.
62
5. Passenger Accommodation
The Marmon body is a unit complete in itself, detachable
from the remainder of the car or chassis. Heavy sheet metal is
used in its. construction, making a very light and durable body.
Remember always that the car is designed for the specified
number of passengers, and that exceeding this number is overloading.
If this is done do not be surprised if the spring suspension
an n(1 body are strained thereby.
The body rests directly upon the side and rear cross members
of the frame, being held in place by a number of bolts. These
bolts may require tightening after the car has been in use some
time. The running boards, fillers and fenders are secured to the
frame by appropriate brackets.
Preserving Finish.
The high finish upon the Marmon is the result of a large number
of careful operations. With proper care, its original luster
can be retained for a number of seasons. Frequent washing, as
described below, with clean, preferably soft water, is recommended.
Whenever possible, mud should be washed off before
drying, and should never be allowed to remain for any great
length of time, for, although it will not at once destroy the finish,
if left on repeatedly the gloss and life of the varnish coat will be
lost. City mud which contains ammonia, and limy mud are particularly
injurious. Mild cases of mud spotting will be relieved
by frequent washing.
Washing.
The object to be kept in mind is to remove the dust and mud
and leave surface dry and clean, with just as little scratching and
rubbing on the finish as possible. First, with a hose and gentle
stream of clear, cold water, play on all parts until the mud is
thoroughly softened and mostly removed. Second, remove all oil
or grease spots with a cloth or piece of waste saturated in gasoline;
do not rub hard. Third, by rubbing gently with a clean
sponge, using an abundance of clear, cold water, remove all mud.
Rinse sponge frequently in clear water. Fourth, rub dry with
gentle strokes of a chamois skin, wringing it out as water is
absorbed.
Marmon41.com
Cautions.
New sponges usually contain sand and shells. These and new
chamois should be cleaned thoroughly with soap and hot water
before using. Rubbing with sponges and chamois should be done
in straight lines rather than in circles. To prevent water drying
and spotting, it is well to clean one panel at a time. Avoid applying
chamois, and especially the sponge, with any great pressure,
63

and do not rub with chamois after surface is dry. Do not attempt
to clean with chamois after using the hose without first rinsing
with sponge, for, although the surface may look clean after washing
with the hose, fine particles of grit are retained, which will
scratch the finish. Keep sponge and chamois, away from all
grease oil spots, as it would thereafter retain grit. The sponge
may be washed in gasoline occasionally. Avoid all patent preparations
pretending to preserve the finish, as their oil will only
collect grit and cause scratching. To prevent checking, avoid
subjecting the car to extreme heat, such as standing in a very hot
sun, and also avoid sudden changes in temperature; thus, when
using the car in very cold weather, the garage should not be kept
too warm. Do not attempt to wash the bonnet when hot, as the
water dries very rapidly and this causes discoloration.
Care of Upholstery.
After washing, go over the leather with a damp cloth or piece
of waste. A good leather dressing may be made by mixing three
parts raw linseed oil and one part vinegar. Rub off at once with
a dry cloth.
Windshield should be shifted with some care to avoid straining
and breaking glass. Do not attempt to adjust while running,
and in placing be sure that parts are not under strain because
of different alignment on the two sides. Note—In pulling lower
glass back, be sure to throw the upper glass forward at the bottom,
to prevent breaking the glass.
To Lower Top proceed as follows: Bows are numbered from
. front to back.
1. Loosen wing nuts which clamp top braces to windshield and pull
braces off.
2. Swing' braces up and fasten to deck with straps provided.
3. Open bow socket holders, at rear of car.
4. Standing in the tonneau and starting from front of top, fold bows together
and lay them down in holders. Do not let bows fall down
on holders.
5. Clanip holders over bow sockets.
6. Take up sag in curtain envelope by unfastening two cloth straps attached
to bow No. 4 and pull up so that the second socket on the
straps will fasten over studs provided on bow No. 3.
7. Take dust hood, and starting from rear of top, pull hood over top so
that the three straps on hood will go over back of rear seat. Pull
rear seat cushion forward and fasten strap to buckles provided,
after which replace rear seat cushion.
8. Under part of hood is next fastened to same fasteners which hold
curtain to body.
9. Pull hood over lower part of bow sockets and fasten with glove fasteners
provided.
When not in use, dust hood for 5 and 7 passenger cars to be carried in
compartment under front seat having door opening in tonneau. Dust hoods on
4-passenger cars carried under front seat between Storage battery and heel
board. Side curtains are folded and placed in envelope under rear of top deck.
When folding side Curtains see that glasseS lay flat. It is a good plan to put
paper between adjacent curtain glasses to prevent scratching.),
64
Detecting Faults
Half the problem of correcting trouble is the ability to discover
its source. Never make the common mistake of getting
yourself into a big trouble trying to get out of a little one. Do
not try something "hit or miss," and never try changing an adjustment
without making sure to get it back just where it was if
unsuccessful. Do not act hastily. Stop and consider the problem.
Enlist the assistance of a competent mechanic whenever possible.
We give the following detailed instructions to be followed by
the operator only in case of an emergency on the road. You will
gain in the long run by not attempting repairs yourself, except
in emergencies. In case of trouble get in touch with a competent
mechanic, a Marmon dealer if available, and write us.
A. If starter will not turn motor.
1. See that starter pedal is not sticking and goes all the way down. Disconnect
storage battery under seat if pedal sticks.
2. Note whether starter gear goes into engagement. If starter spins,
"nurse" the pedal until gear engages.
3. See that main leads between battery switch and starter are firmly
connected, especially at the battery.
4. Battery may be discharged. Test gravity per separate instructions.
5. Start with crank and report promptly to Bosch or Marmon representatives.
B. If starter turns motor but motor will not fire.
1. Do not coot inue to "churn" motor, but check over motor conditions.
See that -
Ignition switch is in proper position.
Throttle lever is open about one and one-half inches.
Air choke lever is closed (in cool or cold weather).
There is gasoline in the carburetor.
Gasoline line cock is open.
2. With a very cold motor it may take some time to get an ignitable
mixture into the cylinders, but if the air choke valve almost entirely
closes the carburetor intake a strong suction will draw gasoline
into cylinders as effectively as priming. In extreme cold
weather a prompt start will follow wrapping a hot water-soaked
cloth about intake manifold.
3. In moderate weather continued churning with the air choke closed will
cause cylinders to flood. To clear motor open wide the air choke
and throttle levers. If still unable to get an explosion, do not continue
to apply starter, but look for the trouble.
4. See that carburetor is getting its supply of pure gasoline.
Drain vacuum feed reservoir and note carefully whether there is
dirt or water present.
If so, drain carburetor and fill reservoir by revolving motor with
starter with air valve closed. .
Then see that you are getting good gasoline and you will get a
start.
Marmon41.com
65

If you cannot get gasoline to flow, water may be frozen or line
may be choked with sediment.
If gasoline supply seems all right, turn to ignition.
5. See whether you get a spark at spark plugs when cranking by placing
a screw driver or other metal from metallic connection on top of
plug to metal on motor. If not—
Disconnect magneto ground switch wire. If it then fires, this
wire is grounded somewhere, causing the trouble.
If not—
Remove and inspect distributer.
See that breaker is working.
6. If you get a good spark examine the spark plugs. They should have
a gap of .025 inch (eight thicknesses of this paper).
See that they are free from soot.
See that porcelain is not cracked.
C. If motor does not fire regularly.
Before attempting any readjustment of the carburetor, it should first
be made certain that the trouble is due to the carburetor, or is of
such a nature that it can be remedied by carburetor adjustment.
Make sure that there are no air leaks in manifold system; that the
ignition system is in good order (if the cylinders "cut out" or miss
singly and without apparent connection the trouble is probably due
to ignition, but if the trouble seems common to all the cylinders, it
may lie in the carburetor, system) ; that spark plugs are clean, and
have, proper gap; that valves are not holding open and that all
cylinders have full compression; that there is a continuous supply
of gasoline to float chamber, without water in the line; that gasoline
is of good quality.
•
As long as there is gasoline at the normal level in the float chamber,
failure of the carburetor to function can only be due to-
1. Water in carburetor—drain cock at bottoin and race engine
to clear out any water in float chamber bowl.
2. Dirt clogging up jets, or interferina with action of air valve,
so that it does not come back b to seat promptly on idle.
These troubles are very rare, and require that the carburetor
should be taken to a Marmon agency or a Stromberg
service station, for inspection and cleaning.
If gasoline does not reach float chamber, make sure that there is gasoline
in vacuum tank, by opening drain cock under same; open drain
cock under carburetor float chamber, to clear out sediment; inspect
screen, inside large hexagonal nut coupling below float chamber.
If float chamber floods, this is probably clue to particles of dirt on
float needle seat; drain cock below carburetor; remove hexagonal
nut above float chamber and flush carburetor by raising and lowerering
needle with fingers; rotate needle several turns on seat and
seat it by tapping gently with wood screwdriver handle. If float
does not rise readily as gasoline flows in after carburetor has been
drained, it may be punctured and partially filled with gasoline, in
which case a new one must be obtained.
If you can operate the car it is better to wait and have a competent
mechanic go over it at the first opportunity.
If a Marmon dealer is not available, write us, answering the following
questions:
Does the motor miss at all speeds alike? Give details.
Have you found that the missing is in any certain cylinder or
cylinders? State which.
Is trouble same at all times or irregular?
Have you examined valves and noted their action?
66
D. If motor overheats.
1. See that you Ii ve
,
wacer.
2. See that you h ve p I y ()I' oil and that it is circulating.
3. See ilia( a water eolinevi ions are free. and water is circulating
properly.
4, See I hal Ca H to in;l. Ian belt may be slipping.
5. Test Hut!)uel
h'1,11 rei arded spark should take place at dead
vent or. H , e Hal nark lever connection is operative.
6. See Ilan ■ 11 ildinstment is correct.
E. If motor fires properly but car has little power.
hr:11:0 \ Cr may be set. •
2. Itrals(.; only he draggiug. See if they are hot.
3. Imbrication may be exhausted.
.1. Note ■ \ het her motor is overheating.
01 her faults are discussed in the text. See index.
F. StaKting and lighting trouble.
I. No li l lr I Ininnblo, (air at standstill.
Ii held :lie of lainable \\ hen engine is running, but no lights are
licil I le 0110110 is at it standstill, this condition indi-
1;II II:II I III' hill I ery is either in a totally discharged condition,
Ile 1,111111,1111Hr. II) iirt• loose, or No. 3 connection to the
control its l. not making proper contact, or the fuse between
posit 1%, ierminill 11:1 Pry ;IMI ground is blown, or the
anntiid(1. :hunt open circiii1.41. if battery is found discharged,
pal: •n ph nnil(T -storage batteries." If the connections
arc
.a inc. 1 1' ruse is blown, it is necessary to
test mil I lie dilferi.nt
her it hell or test lamp before
pulling in of new fn . NeN er 11,-;0 in place of a fuse a piece
of wire; a I \\ s Ini‘e "II hand snl1ieient fuses for replacement.
To determine ■%liel her I he ammeter Alma is blown or not, place
the meter handle iu I lie I'll hand mr voltage position. If voltage
is obtained, mo e I be ha 'idle t he right-hand position, which is
the ampere position, \\ ill! the left hand lighting switch handle in
No. 1 position it shunt is burnt mil. There will be a violent
fluctuation to the left. 11' 1 his eon ■ Iii ion exists, it will necessitate
removing the cover liii• 14)111 lir' remove the screws that
hold the meter in !stallion, diseminect t he two wires that are connected
to the connections oil I he meter, and go thoroughly over
the wiring in order to 11)(1110 of ,J;l )1111(1 which might exist and
which may have caused llie annueler shunt to blow out. After
the ground is located and removed, the two wires that were previously
connected to the a C:111 be connected together by
means of a small bolt, and this will allow of the system being
used while the meter is being repaired, the meter to be sent to a
Bosch Branch for repairing.
2. No lights obtainable under any conditions.
This condition would be due to any ()I' the foregoing causes with the
addition of ..No. I and No. 2 cables being loose either at the
dynamo or control box. At the lime of making up or replacing
terminals used on the cables, it is necessary to use the Bosch
wrench supplied with these outfits. Do not make them too tight.
It is only necessary to tighten the nuts until no more play can
be felt by pushing the wire in and out of the nut.
Marmon41.com
• 67

3. Individual circuits.
Bulb filament burnt out; bulb base not making proper contact;
cables supplying this circuit loose; the remedy for this is obvious.
4. Lights flickering.
Primarily due to either improper brush contacts, dirty commutator,
or loose No. 1 or No. 2 leads, which results in the automatic relay
opening and closing with great rapidity. In order to eliminate
this, it is necessary to loosen the top screw of end cover of
dynamo and turn cover to the left, as far as it will go. This will
expose brush holders and commutator. Brushes can be removed
by lifting up springs and pushing them to one side. Remove
whatever dirt may be on the brushes, in order that they may
have a free sliding fit in the brush holders. The sticking of the
brushes may have caused the commutators to have become roughened.
This can be cleaned by means of fine sand paper, not emery
paper. Never attempt to use other brushes than those supplied
by the Bosch Company. If the flickering is intermittent, it is
caused by loose connections on the battery side of the system.
5. Lights dim (individual circuit).
Poor lamp contact, or poor cable contact; remedy obvious.
6. All lights dim (car standing still) :
Battery partially discharged; partial ground or short-circuit. First
determine the condition of the battery as cited under "battery"
heading. If this is found to be 0. K., test each individual circuit
for ground. This can be done by disconnecting them all at the
control box, and replacing then' one by one, and note at which
circuit the lights dim. This will be the circuit that the trouble
exists on, and the cable terminals and cable itself should be
thoroughly examined.
7. LightA dim (engine running) :
Dynamo not operating with a partially discharged battery. Dynamo
and battery condition 0. K. with a heavy ground or short-circuit
on system; starting switch not having returned to the off position.
To remedy, proceed as under heading under "no lights
obtainable."
•
8. Dynamo not cutting in until high speed is reached.
If the dynamo should not cut in until the engine is raced, and after
it once cuts in, it operates satisfactorily even down to low car
- speeds, this is an indication that the dynamo brushes are not
making proper contact, or that the commutator is roughened and
dirty. To remedy, proceed as under "lights flickering."
9. Adjustment of Automatic Relay:
Before proceeding with the method of adjusting and regulating the
automatic relay or cut-out, and the voltage regulator or controller,
it should be borne in mind that these parts are correctly
set and adjusted, before leaving the factory, and no attempt
should be made to alter same, unless you are certain that conditions
can be bettered or corrected by doing so. These parts
will operate over great lengths of time with absolutely no attention,
and they should be touched only when you are positve that
the difficulty lies there.
This relay is for the purpose of closing the dynamo circuit on to
the battery when the dynamo voltages are 'vrect. If it is
necessary to alter this cutting-in point, it is d e by slackening
off the hexagon-headed nut at the bottom of th left-hand relay.
To cause it to cut in at a. higher voltage, this nut r. mild be tightened.
To cut in at lower voltage, it should be slack& off. Do not
68
forget to tighten up on the look nut. In the front and towards
the bottom of relay, an opening is noticed. When this relay is
closed, there should be ager, if approximately 1.164 of an•inch
between the int ■ vable nomher of the cut-out and the stationary
part. To adjust t Ili:, di ,.tanee, it is necessary to alter the position
of the contact, carried 1/H III t he bridge, located on top of this
relay. This is done In tietelling oil' the hexagon jam nut and
backing 1.111' 1•0111 1101. 1.01 0(I 111/W11.
10. Adjusting Regulator.
rrht ,
I he on ,l
\\ sit 1'111 011 1 111.0 adjusted at a point to give
1:1,11,1) 11\ or I lie 1110S1 elmend nvenige upend ing
0001111 lue 11111 .1.11e ii Iiti1I i tI ruses Halt Im 11 'ial!1,111
tati \\ Ill acceSHIlale
,
arriaardi In 11 ht lncnns of allcrl i In pi, th(.
III, 10 1 1 01 I he 0111 111 11:11111 1,1:1 \ This is done by
memi ol •tuall 00111•11. I11• smelt lo travel
dial a .oreaier pre me 1 evened on 1 111• 110 II pin underneath
/ Ill/ 1/11100 1 110101, 11 1,.11 11 III .1 111 11 1101' (011 11110 :1 1 HI0 11\ 1111 1110 6.0-
1111. .1 I I 'it 111'111/II I'. 1 111' , 111.1-.' , 11 1'0, 11 MI
1.0/11111,/ in /I 110\ \ 1111 111y .. T110 1111 111 ,1 100111 01 /III 111111/1: H111111111 he
su 111;11 1 he 1):111er1 111;t1111:1111011 (t1 .1 1/111'11‘11011 1 1'1 SII' e11uirge11,
but it no lime ,10,111(1 I lie reg111111(11. I10 set su 111111 1 110 11\ WI 1110
voltage just prev ions lo Ibe aulomalic relay olura 1ing is inure
than 14:IA tolls, inasmuch as (his (u1(1 cause a t'iolelnt change
in the intensity of light , ‘vhen I he automatic relay operated.
No mention has been made in these instructions of the righthand
switch on the control box. This was purposely left out, inasmuch
as the switching combination has been changed, and this
switch is now inoperative. The dynamo and the battery are
always in parallel with the automatic relay or cut-out contacts in
series.
Nordyke & Marmon Co.
Factorp and Factorp Branches
Indianapolis Branch
Main Office and Factory
Marmon41.com
Nordyke & Marmon Co.
Kentucky Ave. and Morris St.
Indianapolis, Ind.
Chicago Branch
Nordyke Sr. Marmon Co. Marmon Chicago Co.
New York and Meridian Sts. 2430 Michigan Ave.
Indianapolis, Ind.
Chicago, Ill.
Kansas City Branch
New York Branch
Nordyke '& Marmon Co. Marmon New York Co.
1608-10 McGee St. 1855 Broadway at 61st St.
Kansas City, Mo. New York, N. Y.
(it)

Index
Page
Page
Accelerator 6, 13 "Close to start" lever 5
Adjusting bevel drive gears 48 Clutch 44
Adjusting brakes 53, 54, 55 Clutch pedal, operating 6
Adjusting carburetor 25 Cold weather operation_ _6, 32, 65
Adjusting clutch brake 45 Connecting rods 18
Adjusting fan 32 Control systems 51
Adjusting oil pressure 28, 31 Cooling system 32
Adjusting pump and magneto Countershaft 45
drive chain 33 Crank shaft 19
Adjusting spark plug gap 35 Cross rod 10, 58
Adjusting steering gear 51 Cylinders 17
Adjusting valves 21
Adjusting wheel bearings ____58 60 Dash arrangement, cut of 4
Air choke lever 5, 26 Dealer's service policy 3
"Air valve" lever 5 Deposit of carbon 18
Alcohol in radiator 32 Demountable rims 61
Ammeter, volt 39 Detecting faults 65
Anti-freezing solution 32 Differential gear 50
Axle, front 10, 58 Directions for lubrication 9
Axle, rear 10, 48, 59 Dixon's Graphite grease 9
Driving axle 50, 59
Battery, storage 5, 11, 41 Drive gears, bevel 48
Bearings, front wheel 58 Driving suggestions 12
Bearings, motor 18, 19
Bearings, rear wheel 60 Electrical service 36
Bevel drive gear 48 Electrical systems 36
Body types 2 Emergency brake 5, 6, 54
Body 63 Etiquette of the road 15
Bore of motor 17 External brake 53
Bosch representatives 36
Brakes 52 Fan 32
Faults 65
Cam shafts 20 Filling gasoline tank 5
Candlepower of lamps 40 Filling oil reservoir 5, 27
Carbon, cleaning 18 Filling radiator 5
Carburetor 24, 25, 65 Finish, preserving 63
Carburetor choke and air valve Firing order 20, 35
levers 5 Float gauge
27
Chain drive 32 Fly-wheel markings 22
Change, speed gear 45 Foot brake 5, 14, 53
Changing speeds 12 Four-cycle motor, principle of__ 16
Changing tires 60 Frame 57
Chassis, cut of 8 Freezing, prevention of 32
Circulation of oil 27 Front axle 10, 58
Circulation of water 32 Front wheels 58
Clashing gears 12 Fuses 41, 67
Cleaning car 63
Cleaning carbon from cylinders_ 18 Gasoline system 23
Cleaning motor oiling system___ 28 Gasoline tank 23
Cleaning radiator 32 Gasoline tank capacity 5
Climbing hills 13 Gauge, oil float 27
Clock 5 Gauge, oil pressure 28
Page
Gear shift lever 16
Gear shifting 6, 12, 45
Gears, change speed 45
Gears, bevel drive 48
General instructions 16
Generator 10, 37
Grease cups 9, 10, 11
Grease to be used 9
"Gredag" 9
Grinding valves 20
Guarantee 3
Hand brake 5, 54
Hand throttle 5, 6
Hills, driving 13
Horn 41
Hydrometer syringe 41
Ignition lock 7
Ignition Switch 5
Ignition system 34
Inflating tires 5, 33, 60
Intake system '23
Internal brake 54
"Ironsides" grease 9
Junction box 39
"K-00" grease 9
Lamps 39
Laws, road 15
Leaks in intake line 66
Lighting switch 4
Lighting system. 35
Locking ignition 7
Lubrication system of motor_ 27
Lubrication schedule 9
Lubrication, i I )ricalion, general directions
for 27
Lubricants to be used 9 '
agueto 9, 34
Nlagnelo shaft drive 32
Nlechititicit I system 17
ii I ire, gasoline 25, 66
9
Mirliugra oil 9
Mol or, shirting and stopping 6
Motor, principle of four-cycle 16
Motor, oiling 9, 27
Motor, failure to start 65
Neutral position 5, 13
ail capacity 5, 27
ids to be used 9, 27
system or motor 27
■• of living 35
INDEX-Continued
71
Page
Overhauling oiling system 28
Overheating 67
Oxygen carbon cleaning process_ 18
Paraffine oil 9
Passenger accommodation 63
Pedal, accelerator 6, 13
Pedal, clutch 6
Pistons 16
Power production 16
Preparing car for service 5
Preserving finish 63
Pressure gauge, oil 5, 27
Pressure, tire 33, 60
Prevention of carbon 18
Prevention of freezing 32
Principle of four-cycle motor 16
Production of power 16
Pump shaft drive 32
Pump, tire 33
Pump, water 32
Quick detachable rims 60-
Radiator 32
Radiator, filling 5, 32
Reach rod 51
Rear axle housing 10, 59
Rear system 59
Rear wheels 60
Regulating oiling system 28, 31.
Regulation, voltage 37, 69
Relay, reverse current 37
Removing clutch 45
Removing cylinders 17
Removing differential gears 50
Removing drive axle 50
Removing oil base 28
Removing radiator 32
Removing steering knuckle 58
Removing tires 60
Removing transmission gears 47
Removing valves 20
Removing wheels, front 58
Removing wheels, rear 60
Reverse gear 45
Reversing car 7
Reservoir, oil 27
Road laws 15
Marmon41.com
70
Schedule' of lubrication 9
Sediment in oil system 28
Service, electrical 36
SerVice policy 3
Setting valves 22
Shifting gears 6, 12, 45
Shims, connecting rod 18
Shock absorbers 61
Silent chains 32

Page
Skidding 13
Spark control 6
Spark plugs 35
Speeding 14
Speedometer 9
Springs 11, 57
Starter motor 9, 40
INDEX—Continued
Page
Transmission gears 45
Transmission lubricant 9
Transmission of power 16, 44
Troubles 65
Universal joint 10, 47
Upholstery, care of 64
Starting and lighting system__ 35 Vacuum gravity system 26
Starting car 6 Valve system 20
Steering directions 6, 12 Valve tappets and guides____21, 29
Steering gear 10, 51 Valves, adjusting 21
Steering knuckle 58 Valves, grinding 20
Stewart gasoline system 26 Valves, removing 20
Stopping car and motor 7 Valves, timing 22
Storage battery 5, 11, 41 Vehicle suspension 57
Stroke of motor 17 Volt-ammeter 30
Stromberg carburetor 25 Voltage 34, 67
Suggestions for driving 12
Suspension 4 Warranty 3
Switch box 39 Washing the car 63
Switch, ignition 5 Water circulation 32
Systems of a motor car 16 Water supply 5, 32
Wheels, front 10, 58
Timing ignition 34 Wheels, rear 10, 60
Timing valves 22 When to lubricate 11
,Tires 5, 60 Where to lubricate 9
Tire pump 33 Willard Storage Battery Co 43
Top 64 Winter running 32, 65
Torque bar 59 Windshield 64
Traffic driving 13 Wiring 34
Transmission, cut of 46
This Book is a
part of pour car
Marmon41.com
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kept where it is
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