08.02.2017 Views

Scottish Islands Explorer 41: Jan / Feb 2017

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.

ISLAND INCIDENTS<br />

Mike Heslop wonders whether clockwise or anti-clockwise around Seil<br />

Looking out over Ardmaddy Bay the islands of Seil<br />

and Luing looked like one peninsula. How often<br />

Hebridean <strong>Islands</strong> can appear to fuse into one, hiding<br />

their individual form. But Seil is an island and an attractive<br />

circular day trip for a group of ten sea Kayakers from<br />

Bassenfell Christian Centre in Cumbria. Clockwise or<br />

anti-clockwise, does it matter?<br />

It is the tides that guide the decision. For our trip it had<br />

to be clockwise. We left Ardmaddy Bay on mirror flat<br />

water heading for the gap between Torsa and Seil, a gap<br />

clear on the map but looking like continuous land. Once<br />

between the islands we noticed changes in the water<br />

surface, not the ripples of a breeze, but upwellings of<br />

green glassy water showing something was changing<br />

underneath us.<br />

On Our Way<br />

As we turned into the Sound the sea began to feel like a<br />

river. Increasingly strong currents forced involuntary sideways<br />

movements on our kayaks. Speed continued to increase as the<br />

Sound narrowed. e flooding tide and south easterly breeze<br />

helped us on our way to Easdale Island. No crowd, but<br />

yesterday was different as it was the World Stone Skimming<br />

Championships.<br />

We settled for a private competition, but still using<br />

the rectangular slate block on the edge of the flooded quarry<br />

that is used for the World Championships. On leaving<br />

the slate-lined harbour we experienced the opportunistic<br />

spirit necessary for island life. e owner of a powerful rib<br />

encouraged us to book a one-way trip, kayaks as well, to any<br />

island of our choice.<br />

Good idea, but not for us as the tide was still moving along<br />

nicely. Across the Sound of Insk we noticed an interesting<br />

cave with a glazed window and water catchment system.<br />

What stories here? We headed for Eilian Duin where at high<br />

water the plan was to cook supper. Local goats watched our<br />

landing before quietly moving away. Were they really<br />

survivors from a wrecked Armada ship as locals told us?<br />

A Dark Line<br />

Out of the kayak hatches came stoves and food. In twos and<br />

threes we cooked our evening meal. During washing-up, eyes<br />

were drawn to developing colours over Mull. So yellows<br />

and oranges changed to blood reds followed by magenta with<br />

a final dark orange. e heavens were declaring the glory of<br />

God as light faded. And the tide? A dark line of wet rock by<br />

our kayaks showed the tide was ebbing.<br />

Our clockwise route would again be helped by its flow. is<br />

direction with the tides had been right, given a good day. Slate<br />

was certainly a thread through the day, from industrial history<br />

to quirky stone skimming. Ferries, wheelbarrows and<br />

powerful ribs had shown aspects of island transport. All this<br />

in the setting of island landscapes and the tides that wash<br />

their shores. Sea kayaking doesn’t get much better.<br />

In the Next Issue …<br />

Postal Services -<br />

Hebrides<br />

Penal Colonies - <strong>Islands</strong><br />

Frank Fraser Darling -<br />

Lunga<br />

Photograph supplied by the author, Mike Heslop.<br />

Ornithological<br />

Attraction - Puffins<br />

Clyde Island - Cumbrae<br />

Distilleries & Breweries<br />

- Cheers!<br />

On Sale 18 <strong>Feb</strong>ruary<br />

1. Berneray 2. Noss 3. Cara 4. Stroma 5. Gruinard 6. North Rona 7. Scarba 8. Isle of May 9. Taransay 10. Ailsa Craig<br />

50 SCOTTISH ISLANDS EXPLORER JANUARY / FEBRUARY <strong>2017</strong>

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!