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Scottish Islands Explorer 40: Nov / Dec 2016

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The Corryvreckan<br />

The Corryvreckan<br />

Gordon Eaglesham explains the whirlpool phenomenon<br />

Between the islands of Jura and Scarba, lies a<br />

mysterious maelstrom of sea water known as the<br />

Corryvreckan. is natural phenomenon, the third<br />

largest whirlpool in the world, is the result of powerful<br />

Atlantic currents interacting with extraordinary<br />

underwater topography which was the product of a<br />

primeval catastrophe of enormous violence.<br />

With a prodigious ridge extending 48 yards out of the<br />

Camas nam Bairneach Bay by Scarba, it does not take<br />

much of a westerly wind to set its cyclonic action in<br />

motion - particularly during a spring tide. At this time,<br />

the intense overfalls can be heard up to ten miles away,<br />

with waves during storms approaching 30'.<br />

Local fishermen refer to the tempestuous waters as the<br />

Cailleach - a deity from Gaelic mythology that takes the<br />

form of a hag. According to legend, she controls the<br />

whirlpool, deciding which vessels will be claimed by its<br />

abnormally strong currents and which will survive. Its<br />

name derives from the Gaelic, Coire Bhreacian, meaning<br />

‘cauldron of the speckled seas’.<br />

Precise Timing<br />

Crossing the Corryvreckan is possible during brief<br />

periods of slack water, but requires precise timing. Boat<br />

trips to the area are available from local harbours, and if<br />

you are aer an aerial view, Oban Airport offers<br />

sightseeing flights. e small port of Ardfern on the<br />

banks of Loch Craignish as well as Easdale are the main<br />

departure points.<br />

During a spring tide, water is drawn up the Sound of<br />

Jura and is then forced through a narrowing of the gulf<br />

between Scarba and Jura, creating a bottleneck effect.<br />

When combined with underwater features, including a<br />

basalt pinnacle and an abyss descending 2<strong>40</strong> yards, along<br />

with myriad undulations in the rock and seabed, vortices<br />

of water develop.<br />

The catalyst for this is usually an inundation of water<br />

pouring into the cavernous hole and up to the base of<br />

the pinnacle, where it meets the east face. Its epicentre<br />

is directly above the pinnacle where the strongest<br />

vortices are formed. With 33 yards between the top of<br />

this geological oddity and the sea surface, it’s no wonder<br />

that many have been caught off guard.<br />

Most Challenging<br />

e overfall during an ebb tide creates waterfalls on the<br />

south side of the gulf as shallow waters meet greater<br />

depths and the sea attempts to flatten itself out. It is<br />

therefore unsurprising that the waters are regarded as<br />

some of the most challenging in the world for diving. An<br />

intricate tidal system exists between the islands and<br />

mainland of the Argyll coast.<br />

is creates anomalies which stretch the conventional<br />

laws of physics. For example, as the main flood flows<br />

north by the Mull of Kintyre, water is sucked out of the<br />

Clyde Estuary. is causes an incredible peculiarity to<br />

occur between Crinan and Lochgilphead, with a high<br />

tide at one and a low tide at the other - despite only being<br />

six miles apart.<br />

Meanwhile far below the surface, the water is<br />

vigorously stirred up by the unusual seabed. Countless<br />

holes and undulations create intense tidal flows, eddies<br />

and up-thrusts. The complex currents generated from<br />

all this aquatic commotion can be observed on the<br />

surface during calm conditions. It’s this unpredictability<br />

that makes the Corryvreckan so notorious.<br />

38 SCOTTISH ISLANDS EXPLORER NOVEMBER / DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong>

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