Breeze_Issue_001_ChildrenOfTheSea

B Y C O C O C O L L E C T I O n 

CHILDREN 

OF THE SEA 

COCO FAMILY 

MAROONED IN THE MALDIVES 

SAIL & SEA 

THE MELTING POT 

Sept 2015 Issue 001 

www.cococollection.com 


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2 BREEZE BY COCO COLLECTION SEPTEMBER 2015


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Sept 2015 Issue 001 


ON THE COVER 

CHILDREN 

OF THE SEA 

COCO FAMILY 

MAROONED IN THE MALDIVES 

SAIL & SEA 

THE MELTING POT 


Breeze is the latest offering from 

Coco Collection, the trailblazing 

Maldivian hospitality brand. 

Readers will now be able to 

glimpse the Maldivian way of 

life and environment through its 

quarterly editions. 

On the shores of Coco Bodu Hithi, 

Raudha Athif models a modern 

take on the traditional Maldivian 

dress, the Dhivehi libaas. Often 

bright red, these dresses showcase 

intricate Maldivian embroidery 

techniques that have been passed 

down through the generations for 

centuries. 

24 

Children of the Sea 

Feature 

Though land is scarce, the sea is 

vast and thus, Maldivians have 

adapted themselves to the sea. 

They have built their lives and 

earned their livelihood in and 

around the ocean. 

12 

38 

46 

60 

Marooned in the Maldives 

HISTORY PAGES 

In a country with such little written history, François 

Pyrard’s account of his time amongst these islands in 

the early 17th century is a priceless insight into the 

customs of a bygone Maldives. 

Turtle Power 

MARINE BIOLOGY 

The Coco Collection islands are deeply invested in 

the ocean and with marine biologist Chiara Fumagalli 

spearheading the in-house conservation projects, 

local turtles are finding refuge and protection. 

The Melting Pot 

CUISINE 

The Maldives has maintained trade routes with its 

spice-rich overseas neighbours for centuries. The 

result? A distinct local cuisine that has combined 

cooking know-how from across the region. 

Fusing body and mind 

WELLNESS 

Nashiu Zahir visits Coco Spa to discover that a Coco 

massage is a true work of art. 

18 A Journey to Goidhoo 

ISLAND CULTURE 

64 

20 About Town 

66 

MALE’ GUIDE 

42 Trees of the Maldives 68 

FLORA & FAUNA 

50 Coco Cook Up! 

70 

COCO RECIPES 

52 Take the Plunge 72 

UNDERWATER FEATURE 

62 Beach Beauty 

74 

FASHION TIPS 

Travel to Transform 

HEALTH 

Skincare Laid Bare 

WELLNESS 

Cinema Paradiso 

EXPERIENCE 

Meet the Family 

COCO FAMILY 

Island Vibes 

REVIEW 

The Low Down 

MALDIVES FACTS 


INSIDE THIS ISSUE 

8Moving Mountains 

NATURE & GEOLOGY 

Being the lowest-lying country in 

the world, one might not assume 

that the Maldives was built upon 

mountains. Yet, millions of years 

ago, the growth and decline of 

a submerged volcanic ridge laid 

the foundations for an oceanic 

nation. 

32 

Sail & Sea 

DESIGN & INSPIRATION 

As ancient as civilisation itself, 

boat building is at the core of 

Maldivian culture. Mariyam 

Athiza Athif delves into the 

world of the Maldivian dhoni. 

56 

Dyeing Arts 

ARTS & CULTURE 

Traditional handicrafts are at 

peril of vanishing across the 

globe. Yet in a far-flung corner 

of the Maldives, Aminath Ishrath 

meets a woman determined to 

keep the art of Maldivian dyeing 

and weaving alive. 


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September 2015 / Issue #001 

Editorial 

Editor Adele Verdier-Ali 

Contributing Editor Mariyam Athiza Athif 

breeze@perspective.mv 

FEATURE WRITERS 

Nashiu Zahir 

Fathimath Lamya Abdulla 

Ayesha Naseem 

Noona Hussein 

Aminath Ishrath 

Art direction / Illustrations Eagan Badeeu 

Layout design Ali Imran Mohamed 

ADVERTISING 

Mash-hood Abdulla, sales@perspective.mv 

Navaal Rasheed, navaal@perspective.mv 

CLIENT RELATIONS 

Aminath Ali, admin@perspective.mv 

COCO COLLECTION 

Director of Marketing Shafa Shabeer 

Senior Marketing Executive Lulu Aishath 

Marketing & PR Executive Aminath Ishrath 

Marketing & PR Executive Mariyam Narmeen 

connect@cococollection.com 


PHOTOGRAPHY 

Fashionstock, Hussain Shaz, Shaahina Ali, 

Shutterstock, UNDP, Yassin Hameed/F8PRO 

COVER PHOTO 

Photographed by Azzu (Double Dot) 

Model Raudha Athif 

Breeze by Coco Collection is produced for Sunland Hotels & 

Resorts by Perspective Pvt Ltd, Emerald Building 3rd Floor, 

Koli Umar Maniku Goalhi, Male’, Republic of Maldives. 

info@perspective.mv, www.perspective.mv 

© Coco Collection, 2015. 

Printed by Novelty Printers and Publishers Pvt Ltd, Maldives 

New Beginnings 

Creating something new is always a journey, a time for 

exploration and adventure. It is this precious sense of 

discovery that has shaped the contents of the first edition 

of Breeze by Coco Collection. Our hope was to capture in 

its pages that feeling that only travel brings – the freshness 

and excitement of arriving somewhere new and beginning to 

explore. As you delve into the rich stories, travelogues and 

reviews that are to come, my hope is that for just a moment, 

you can get lost in Maldivian wanderlust. 

Whether the Maldives is your second home, whether you’ve 

just stepped foot on its shores or whether you’re simply 

dreaming of its coral reefs, Breeze has something for everyone. 

In this issue, historical tales of shipwrecked sailors sit next to 

underwater adventures. You’ll find first-hand accounts of 

exploring local islands next to reports on traditional cuisine. 

And of course, at the heart of the magazine are the Coco 

Collection resorts themselves. As such, reviews, interviews and 

island news abound in this issue, inspired by the curated and 

spontaneous experiences to be found on all Coco properties. 

Together, these articles combine to paint a picture of the 

true Maldives – a place where history is part of the present 

moment and where luxury can be found amongst the simplest 

pleasures. 

After all, this is a land where stories have travelled the same 

way for millennia; with the whispers on the Breeze. 

We would love to hear about your own Coco moments, 

so do please get in touch and share your thoughts and 

memories of these beautiful islands with us by emailing 

us at breeze@perspective.mv 

Adele Verdier-Ali 

Editor 


Looking back, looking ahead 

Welcome to the very first issue of Breeze by Coco Collection. 

I’m very excited to share this new publication with you and I 

hope you’ll enjoy immersing yourself in its pages as much as 

I did. 

With the launch of this creative magazine, Coco Collection is 

once again distinguishing itself as one of the trailblazers of 

Maldivian hospitality. This publication coincides with the ten 

year anniversary of the brand and reflects how far we’ve come. 

When we launched Coco Collection in 2005, we were driven by 

a passion to provide our guests with holidays that were stylish, 

sophisticated and sustainable. Ten years later, that passion is 

still what drives us today. Having that at our foundation has 

ensured that as the company continues to grow and mature, we 

never lose sight of our Maldivian roots. Our people, traditions 

and precious ecosystems are at the heart of Coco Collection, 

and are a big part of what makes our resorts so individual and 

inspiring. 

This homegrown style of hospitality is evident throughout our 

three islands; Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu, Coco Bodu Hithi and 

Coco Privé Kuda Hithi. At Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu, the spirit of 

the Maldivian wild dominates. Although a stylish destination, 

the resort has captured the feeling of being in harmony 

with nature, which is in no small part due to our extensive 

conservation programmes. At Coco Bodu Hithi, the architecture 

and design are inspired by a blend of traditional and 

contemporary concepts, providing an intimate experience 

for guests to savour. Coco Privé Kuda Hithi, our ultra-private 

retreat for those wishing to have an entire island just for 

themselves, transcends sophistication and is the jewel in the 

crown of Coco Collection. 

While all three properties offer something distinct, they share 

a core that is uniquely Coco. By doing so, as a brand we have 

remained at the forefront of Maldivian luxury. 

We are delighted that our efforts are being repeatedly 

recognised on the global hospitality stage. At the 2014 World 

Luxury Hotel Awards, Coco Collection was named the Indian 

Ocean’s Luxury Hotel Brand and Coco Privé Kuda Hithi was 

named Global Winner for Luxury Private Island Resort. Coco 

Collection was also awarded Indian Ocean’s Leading Boutique 

Hotel Brand at the 2015 World Travel Awards. 

I hope that you will share in our journey as the portfolio of 

Coco Collection continues to innovate and develop. And for 

now, I wish you happy reading and safe travels! 

Shabeer Ahmed 

Chairman and Managing Director, 

Sunland Hotels & Coco Collection 


7



MOVING 

MOUNTAINS 

How the last remaining traces of prehistoric ocean 

volcanoes formed the world’s flattest nation 

WORDS FATHIMATH LAMYA ABDULLA, PHOTOS SHAAHINA ALI 

Being the lowest-lying country in the world, 

one might not assume that the Maldives was 

built upon mountains. Yet, millions of years 

ago, the growth and decline of a submerged 

volcanic ridge laid the foundations for an 

oceanic nation. 


9



The Maldivian archipelago, mostly 

celebrated for its white sandy 

beaches, colourful reefs and 

beautiful lagoons, was once just a 

volcanic mountain range that was 

the end result of a geological “traffic 

accident” between Africa and Asia during 

the Cretaceous Period, during which time 

the continents were on the move. Maldives 

is atop a long underwater mountain range 

of volcanoes (2000 km) known as the 

Laccadives-Chagos Ridge rising out of the 

Indian Ocean. It is from this volcanic range 

that the 26 atolls of Maldives were formed, 

over the course of millions of years. 

The word ‘atoll’ is derived from the 

Dhivehi word ’atholhu‘, and is the only 

English word derived from the native 

Maldivian language. 

The formation of atolls is a long process 

that may take up to as long as 30,000,000 

years. It begins with underwater 

volcanoes, called seamounts. When these 

volcanoes erupt, lava gets piled on the 

seafloor and the seamount’s elevation 

keeps on increasing until the top of the 

volcano breaks the surface of the water 

and becomes an oceanic island. Small sea 

animals called corals settle around the 

oceanic island. The type of corals that build 

reefs are known as hermatypic corals, or 

hard corals. They create a hard exoskeleton 

of limestone around the volcanic island. 

Billions of these limestone exoskeletons 

make up the fringing reef that surrounds 

the island just below the ocean surface. 

This is a process that happens over 10,000 

years. 

Over the following millions of years, 

the volcanic island erodes and sinks to 

the seafloor as a result of the constant 

pounding of powerful ocean waves onto 

the island. This is a process called 

subsidence. As the seamount erodes into 

the sea, its top is made flat and this 

flat-topped seamount is called a guyot. 

As the island subsides, the fringing reef 

becomes a barrier reef, which is further 

from the shore and has a deeper lagoon. 

The barrier reef protects the lagoon from 

harsh winds and waves of the ocean. 

The subsidence brings slight differences 

to the ocean chemistry that affects the 

reef dramatically. The outer ocean-facing 

side of the reef become a healthy marine 

ecosystem while the corals on the inner 

side slowly decay. This changes the colour 

of the ocean from deep ocean blue to 

bright teal. 

In the final stage, the ocean waves break 

apart pieces of the limestone reef, and 

erode the coral into tiny grains of sand. 

This material, along with other organic 

matter deposited by the waves, gets piled 

up on the reef forming a ring-shaped island 

or islets, the latter being the form of atolls 

prevalent in Maldives. 


11

Marooned 

in the Maldives 

The life and times of François Pyrard 

WORDS MARIYAM ATHIZA ATHIF, ILLUSTRATIONS EAGAN BADEEU 


HISTORY PAGES 


13

Based on an extract from ‘The voyage of François Pyrard De Laval to the East 

Indies, the Maldives, the Moluccas, and Brazil’ as it appears in Hakluyus Posthumus 

or, Purchas and his Pilgrimage, Vol XI, pages 503-570. 

Published by Asian Educational Services, New Delhi, India. 

In a country with such little written 

history, François Pyrard’s account of 

his time amongst these islands in the 

early 17th century is a priceless insight 

into the customs of a bygone Maldives. 

This slim hardcover volume encompassing 

French navigator François Pyrard De Laval’s 

personal account of his time in Maldives is 

a vivid image of the country’s past. It depicts 

a picture of an island kingdom rich with 

feasts, customs, and celebrations. It invokes images of 

primeval islands of lush vegetation fortified by coral 

reefs and strong seas. It describes olive skinned island 

inhabitants, industrious and marvellously adapted to 

their surroundings. 

The adventurous tale begins with a brief account of Pyrard’s 

travels leading up to the shipwreck that left him and a few of 

his fellow sailors near the island of ”Pouladou” in the ”Atollon 

of Malos Madou” on July 2nd 1602. 

His first encounter with the inhabitants was somewhat 

hostile. The inhabitants didn’t allow him and his companions 

to come ashore until they were disarmed, and although they 

were taken to a house in the middle of the island and given 

some food, all of their possessions were seized on the premise 

that they now belonged to the king. Afterwards, Pyrard and 

his companions were taken to “Paindoue”, an island that was 

enduring a famine. The inhabitants 

barely offered them any food, and 

Pyrard was left to eat the shrubs and dead 

fishes that he found near the shore. Later on, 

the inhabitants allowed Pyrard and company to 

work. Pyrard accompanied the islanders on fishing and 

coconut collection expeditions and in return he was given a 

portion of the assemblage. It was during this time that Pyrard 

learnt to speak the native language, a move that significantly 

eased his hardships by resulting in him being presented to the 

king who provided lodgings for Pyrard in Male’, and allowed 

him a unique access to observe the daily lives and customs of 

the island inhabitants. 

Although Pyrard’s time in the Maldives was somewhat 

adverse and uncertain, his greatest apprehensions seem 

to have been about the sea. He makes some geographical 

observations, writes about the monsoons and the heat, but 

at length speaks of the force and currents of the sea. He 

describes the surge as being greater than a house and as white 

as cotton, and compares it to a very white wall. Pyrard seems 

to marvel at the ease at which the natives navigated their 

Innafushi 

Corbin 

Fulhadhoo 

The Corbin was shipwrecked on 2nd July 1602. 

Fehendhoo 

Goidhoo 

Maafushi 

Fenfushi 

Goidhoo Atoll 


HISTORY PAGES 

Pyrard and his crew meeting the island chief 

boats within the channels and narrow lagoons that surrounded 

the atolls and islands. To him these appeared dangerous and 

perilous. 

Pyrard also found these expert navigators, who he describes 

as half-fishes with no fear of the sea, to be graceful, wellshaped 

and proportioned. He depicts images of olive skinned 

women with long black hair and armed men walking about with 

knives in their girdles, all adorned with heavy silver bracelets 

and layers of gold necklaces, clothed in cotton, silk and taffeta. 

He describes their hair ceremonies, bathing rituals and other 

grooming rites, all deeply rooted in superstitions. 

The natives are described as scrupulous and superstitious 

in all their actions. If they have 

slept, he writes, they would not 

meet anyone unless they’ve 

washed their face and eyes, 

rubbed them with oil and put 

on a “blackness” upon their 

eyelids and brows. When 

they left for a voyage it was 

important for them to not touch 

anyone since if something 

disastrous happened they 

would attribute the calamity to 

the person who touched them. 

When the sun set on Thursdays, 

they would not allow anything 

to be removed from their 

houses until three or four 

o’clock in the afternoon the 

next day. The passage goes on 

to explain that every island has 

a place called “Siare” where they make daily offerings of little 

boats and ships full of perfumes and flowers to the “King of 

the Winds” and similar rituals were conducted for the “King of 

the Sea”. 

These superstitious customs, which appear to have 

immensely captured Pyrard’s imagination also seem to have 

been intricately woven into the traditions of Islam. Pyrard 

noted how the locals all prayed five times a day, men at 

mosques and women in their homes, and every year they 

fasted during the month of Ramadan, a feat that started with 

“Pyrard also found 

these expert navigators, 

who he describes as 

half-fishes with no fear 

of the sea, to be graceful, 

well-shaped and 

proportioned.” 

banquets, dances and merriments at the appearance of the 

new moon and ended with the same splendour with the 

festivities of the Eid. According to Pyrard, these inhabitants 

celebrated feasts throughout the year. Fridays were feast 

days, a feat announced by a group of men with their bells and 

trumpets, and every new moon was rejoiced with banquets and 

merrymaking. 

The king at the time was Sultan Ibrahim dolos assa raltera 

Atholon which meant Sultan Ibrahim, King of thirteen provinces 

and twelve thousand Iles. According to Pyrard, the king was 

feared and revered by all. But he was also curious in nature 

and had a desire to learn. Wanting to learn about the customs 

of the French was the reason 

why the king provided Pyrard 

with lodgings near his palace. 

Pyrard describes a palace 

built of stone enclosed in 

a garden where there were 

fountains and cisterns of 

water. It had many mansions 

and two great halls, and was 

adorned by rich curtains, 

tapestries of silk enriched 

with gold, and finely woven 

mats that were made in the 

islands. Being placed near 

the palace, Pyrard was able to 

make many close observations 

regarding the daily lives 

of the king and his queens. 

He writes about the different 

ranks of people and their 

customs and provides insights into the government and its 

legal system. 

Pyrard’s adventures in the Maldives ended when he took 

the opportunity to escape from Male’ during a Bengali raid. 

This book, which covers tales from the entire five years of 

his stay in Maldives, contains some surprises even for the 

Maldivian reader. It puts an aura of magic and mystery over the 

Maldivian past and provides insights into an almost vanished 

culture that’s left behind only a smidgen of its essence. 


15


HISTORY PAGES 

“Pyrard seems to marvel at the ease at which the 

natives navigated their boats within the channels and 

narrow lagoons that surrounded the atolls and islands. 

To him, these appeared dangerous and perilous.” 

A map depicting Pyrard’s journey from Europe 

to the Indian Ocean. 


17


ISLAND CULTURE 

A Journey to Goidhoo 

Retracing Pyrard’s steps 

WORDS NASHIU ZAHIR, PHOTOS UNDP 

Goidhoo is where Pyrard first set foot in the Maldives. With rumours 

still circulating of sunken treasures below the reef, it is a place of 

history and legend. Nashiu Zahir follows in the French castaway’s 

footsteps for an afternoon, and finds a warm welcome in an island 

little changed for centuries. 

Arriving at Goidhoo, a half-hour speedboat 

ride from Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu, I spot a 

large banyan tree; underneath which are 

jolis, comfortable mesh seats made from 

ropes. A welcome oasis of shade; the day 

is relentlessly hot and it is not even noon. I sit with my 

island guide Mohamed on the joli to cool off and talk. 

Mohamed, who works at Dhuni Kolhu, has family here. 

“This was a fishing community before,” Mohamed 

says. “There was a good fleet of fishing boats but it’s all 

gone now. People have moved on to other things.” 

He makes a call to arrange a motorbike for us. I take a 

look at the surroundings. There is a cluster of buildings 

close to the harbour, a café of sorts where a few men sit 

over cups of tea or coffee. It is quiet, the island’s 700 

people obviously do not make much in the way of noise. 

A haruge, a local hut where people congregate, sits close 

to the harbour, awash in yellow paint and covered with 

political slogans. 

Mohamed gets a bike and tells me we have to see 

his father, who was once deputy island chief or kuda 

katheeb. We speed over to his house through empty 

streets dotted with quaint single storey houses with 

coral boundary walls that enclose little gardens with 

papaya or breadfruit trees. A brightly painted shop or 

two stand out from among the rest of the buildings. 

Going through these streets I feel as though I have 

stepped behind a veil into an older era, a simpler life. 

We stop in front of a female-only mosque, which you 

frequently find on the islands unlike in the capital city, 

Male. His parents’ house is just opposite the mosque. I 

venture in and am welcomed with warm hospitality by 

Mohamed’s mother, who motions me to take a seat in 

a joli. Little children play nearby. Fresh mango juice 

is offered. I sip from my drink and before I am done, 

Mohamed’s elderly father Abdul Rahim enters the house. 

We have a chat about the island, its history, people, 

their occupations. This island of 700 has an interesting 

past, I learn. “Former President Nasir banished a number 

of people from the Thinadhoo secession movement 

here,” he says. “At one point there were more banished 

people here than our island folk.” This happened in the 

early 60s and disrupted the quiet, everyday life of the 

native islanders. Theft and small crimes were common at 

the time, Abdurrahim recalls. 

Goidhoo is also historically significant because of 

the wreck of the French navigator Pyrard’s Corbin, which 

lies in proximity to the island. But neither Mohamed nor 

Abdurrahim are able to tell me much about it, although 

the latter reveals that the wreck can still be seen some 

twelve miles from the island. Abdurrahim then mentions 

a historical site we could visit; a mosque that was built 

around 1930 AD. 

Mohamed takes me to the mosque; it is not very 

large, its sandy compound is inhabited by a well, a 

few plants, a temple flower tree, and the mosque itself. 

The compound is surrounded by thick foliage and is 

adjacent to a small graveyard. He tells me that the 

mosque has been abandoned for a couple of years. It 

looks unkempt, signs of decay are apparent, peeling 

paint, torn carpets and mould on the walls. The place 

commands a morbid sort of fascination and that line 

from Shelley’s Ozymandias comes to my mind: Look on 

my works ye mighty, and despair. 

We roam around the island again, on the motorbike, 

exploring its winding paths with great thickets of trees 

on either side; breadfruit, banyan, screwpine, a slew of 

others too many to name. There is such a profusion of 

gorgeous greenery, it’s the epitome of the term ‘tropical 

paradise’. We stop by a clearing to snap pictures of 

an especially large banyan tree; it is an old soul, an 

enormous trunk, a giant leafy canopy overhead. A good 

place to camp, I think. 

We come out of the woods and stop by some fields in 

which pumpkins, butternut squash and watermelons are 

grown. Quite a few people farm on the island, Mohamed 

says. I spot some temple flower trees in the fields, they 

seem out of place. I learn from Mohamed that they are 

sold to resorts; apparently they fetch a handsome price. 

We go back to Mohamed’s parents’ again, it is time 

for lunch. A veritable feast is prepared for us; fresh 

garudhiya (fish broth), spiced trevally freshly caught 

and grilled, and a spicy reef fish curry. They are served 

with local condiments, a delicious chilli paste, fresh 

chilli, onion and lime. Mohamed’s mother sat with us 

chatting as we ate, making sure we each got more than 

one helping of rice. His sisters bring in more mango juice 

and their genuine hospitality really makes an impression 

on me. 

After lunch, it is time to head back. I leave with a 

belly full of one of the finest meals of my life, a heart 

made tender by the kindness of these strangers, and a 

mind full of the island’s luscious vegetation. Definitely a 

place I will come back to, and for longer. 


19

About Town 

A guide to visiting Malé 

Malé is the bite-sized capital of the Maldives, a frenzied city dotted with tall multi-hued buildings, raucous 

streets and bustling cafés. The economic hub of the small archipelago, Male’ presents visitors with an experience 

distinct from that of resorts; it is fast paced, brimming with people and traffic. For residents, there is simply no 

time to stop and stare, but there are quite a few charming places for tourists to inspect at their leisure. 

1 

Republic Square 

A vast open space, the kind of luxury 

you do not get in the city, the square is home 

to hundreds of pigeons, and quite possibly the 

largest iteration of the Maldivian national flag. 

Opposite the square sits the country’s Defence 

Headquarters. On a flank is the tall sky blue 

Police Headquarters. The square is scorching 

during the day but is a nice spot to sit and relax 

late in the afternoon or in the evenings. 

2 

The Chaandhanee Magu 

Souvenier District 

An old district that has been around 

almost as long as tourism in the country, some 

of these shops are veritable institutions. Expect 

anything from t-shirts 

adorned with local batik 

art to handcarved 

wooden ornaments 

to kitschy fridge 

magnets. And always 

bargain. 

N 

2 

3 

1 

4 

8 

6 

5 

9 

7 

10 


MALE’ GUIDE 

3 

The Islamic Centre 

Just around the bend from the shopping 

district is the main mosque of the 

capital, and indeed, the biggest of its 

kind anywhere on the archipelago. 

Its official name, Masjid-al-Sultan 

Muhammad Thakurufaan al-Auzam 

is a bit of a mouthful (Muhammad 

Thakurufaan is believed 

to be chief among those who 

liberated the Maldives from the 

Portuguese in the 16th Century). 

The majestic golden dome and minaret 

mould Malé’s skyline; they are readily 

apparent as you approach the city. 

7 

Dhivehi Malaafaiy 

Located close to Sultan Park, on Rah 

Dhebai Magu, Dhivehi Malaafaiy is a restaurant 

specialising in Maldivian cuisine. It is a great 

place to unwind, smoke a shisha and check out 

a wealth of uniquely Maldivian dishes. Try 

garudhiya and bai, a local staple consisting of 

steamed rice, fish broth, homemade chili paste, 

lime and onions. Alternatively, you can go for 

kukulhu musamma, a delectable dry chicken 

curry, moderately spicy but edible and enjoyable 

even for those with a western palate. 

4 

Friday Mosque and Minaret 

Just up the road from the Islamic Centre 

is another mosque, but not just any mosque, it is 

the most important heritage site of the country. 

Constructed in the mid-17th century, the Friday 

Mosque has been in continuous use ever since. 

The mosque is built mainly out of coral stone 

and features intricate coral carvings, a pinnacle 

of Maldivian craftsmanship. Its interior displays 

fine lacquer calligraphy and decoration, among 

the best in the country. The local carpenters who 

carried out the roofing and other woodwork have 

their graves in the eastern part of the mosque. 

The minaret is believed to be constructed in the 

fashion of those in Mecca at the time. It was built 

on the orders of Sultan Ibrahim Iskandhar. The 

Friday Mosque complex has been on UNESCO’s 

tentative World Heritage List since 2008. 

5 

Sultan Park 

The biggest park in the capital and 

once part of the palace grounds; it is an excellent 

place to seek shade and sip a cold drink amid 

the tall trees, rarities in the concrete choked 

city. A banyan tree close to the museum seems 

to intrigue tourists. The park is also home to the 

National Library and the museum. 

6 

The National Museum 

The musuem was first opened in the 

fifties by the then Prime Minister Mohamed 

Amin Didi. The current museum building, a gift 

from the Chinese Government, is housed in 

Sultan Park. It features Islamic objects 

and various royal artefacts, including 

sunshades, thrones and slippers 

worn by Maldivian royalty. The museum 

is also home to a fragment of 

moon rock from the US’s Apollo missions 

to the moon. There is a cover 

charge of 20 Rufiyaa per adult, but it 

is totally worth the money. 

8 

Carnival Area 

Further up, in the eastern part of the 

island, there is another place for local fare, especially 

breakfast and ‘short eats’, finger food 

consisting of fish balls and samosa-like snacks 

called bajiyaa, to be had in the evenings. They 

also provide some local interpretations of international 

fare; check out the ever-popular nasi 

goreng. 

9 

Artificial Beach Area 

This is the only ‘beach’ to be 

found in the city, it is a place to cool 

off and enjoy some food. No bikinis, 

but you can catch the rays in 

shorts and a tank top. Surrounding 

the horse-shoe shaped beach 

are various restaurants that serve 

foreign cuisines including Indian, 

Thai and Italian. 

10 

Raalhugandu 

This area on the eastern edge of the 

city is where the cool kids hang out, 

catching the waves or contemplating 

the sea over cigarettes 

and energy drinks. Obviously 

a place for surfing, and getting 

to know the genial folk 

of the local surf community. 


21

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Bikini • Rashguards • Waterproof Bags • Beach 

Accessories • Sunglasses Waterproof Phone Cases • 

GoPro Editions 3 & 4 • Sealife • Snap Sights Liquid 

Image • GoPro Accessories • etc. 

M. Araliya, Alhivilaa Magu, Male' 20292, Maldives 

T: +960 330 2737 F: +960 300 2737 E: sales@seagear.com.mv 

W: www.seagear.com.mv 



23

Until at least 40 years ago, the lives of Maldivians were simple and modest. The men 

sailed out to the sea and brought their catches to the wives and womenfolk to cook 

and preserve. Garudhiya (fish soup) was made for lunch and dinner as the main savoury 

dish, while the rest of the fish would be dried or smoked on a pier. The water used for 

cooking the fish would be boiled and re-boiled until it turned into a dark thick paste 

that the locals call Rihaakuru – every local’s favourite condiment. 


FEATURE 

CHILDREN 

OF THE 

SEA 

WORDS Ayesha Naseem 

PHOTOS SHAAHINA ALI, YASSIN HAMEED/F8PRO, 

AZZU (DOUBLE DOT) 

Though land is scarce, 

the sea is vast and thus, 

Maldivians have adapted 

themselves to the sea. 

They have built their lives 

and earned their livelihood 

in and around the ocean. 


25

Cowry shells or boli, the first medium of exchange 

recorded in Maldives were used in the country until 

20th century. In fact, cowry shell collecting and trading 

became an active industry in the Maldives where both 

men and women had designated responsibilities in 

cultivating shells. Writers and travellers have recorded 

the use of shells in trade in various parts of Asia, Africa 

and even in Europe. 

If you take a stroll in one of the rural areas of Maldives, 

you will find such humble abodes built from corals and 

sand even today. Although the government has since 

banned coral mining, before the arrival of foreign trade 

Maldivians used corals from nearby reefs to build their 

houses. 


FEATURE 

Times have changed; today the sea is not only part of the Maldivian lifestyle 

but the strength of its economy. From live groupers to fresh yellow fin 

tuna, lobsters, shrimps and other such exotic seafood; the Maldivian waters 

is abundant. All these fresh varieties, as well as processed fish and fish 

items, are exported to various corners of the world, especially Eastern Asia. 

Tourists who visit the Maldives for its exotic beauty and fine dining should 

not give its seafood a miss. 


27

Fishing is not just a source of food or income. At sunset or late at 

night, you will see menfolk sitting by the jetties with rods and lines. 

It is a way of unwinding for some after a strenuous day, while others 

just love catching their own food. The youth, especially young men 

go on leisurely fishing trips during the weekend: they catch fish, 

barbecue them on the vessel, sing, and dance and come back at 

night. Even the resorts in the Maldives offer big game fishing trips for 

visiting fishing enthusiasts. 


FEATURE 

Be it snorkelling, SCUBA diving or free diving and be it for 

leisure, fish hunting or any other activity; under the sea is a 

wondrous place to be! The enchanting views of marine life 

itself provide a chance to unwind. The beauty of its sea is one 

of the main attractions of the Maldives. 

If you have run across the beach with your friends, collected colourful shells into an empty jar or a 

bottle, then you have had a happy, and a very Maldivian childhood, so I say. We have strung them 

together and made bracelets, necklaces and even wind chimes. If you visit a local tourist shop 

you will witness not only the creativity of the locals, but you will also run out of options to 

choose from. Colourful jewelleries to keepsakes, mini dhonis (fishing boats) to almost anything 

that is reminiscent of a happy Maldivian retreat, you would want to take them with you. Maldivians 

have evolved their happy childhood activity into an artful occupation. 


29

The north breakwater of the capital city of Male’ is 

a bustling area during the afternoon. While some sit 

and admire the sea, sun and sand, the more adventurous 

are seen heading to the sea with their body 

boards or surfboards. 


FEATURE 

You will be overcome with disbelief if you meet one of the local 

boat designers. Without any formal education or training in the 

field, they craft and design huge vessels. Safaris, boats or fishing 

vessels; they are all designed and engineered by Maldivians. 

The sea has taught us to seek food, earn a dignified living, and 

it has produced arts and craftsmen and engineers. The sea is 

everything to Maldivians - from survival to leisure. The ocean 

is a blessing to Maldivians - the children of the sea. As Pablo 

Neruda once said, ‘I need the sea because it teaches me’. 


31



Sail 

Sea & 

WORDS MARIYAM ATHIZA ATHIF, PHOTOS YASSIN HAMEED/F8PRO 

ILLUSTRATIONS EAGAN BADEEU 

As ancient as civilisation itself, boat building 

is at the core of Maldivian culture. Mariyam 

Athiza Athif delves into the world 

of the Maldivian dhoni. 


33

“Boat building in the Maldives used to be done without 

any drawings or plans. A head carpenter would simply 

give out the instructions and measurements to the 

other carpenters.” 

Boats have always played an important 

role in the Maldivian way of life. The 

small coral islands of the nation are 

geographically isolated and surrounded 

by the vast Indian Ocean. In the ancient 

times without telephones, televisions, radios 

and the internet, it was the boats that kept 

the inhabitants of these separate islands 

connected. The boats allowed the inhabitants 

to mingle, befriend and trade with those from 

faraway islands. With Maldivians relying heavily 

on the surrounding sea for food, it was also the 

boats that ensured that the entire nation was fed. 

The Maldivian traditional boat, referred to as dhoni 

by the locals, resembles the traditional Arabian sailing 

vessel dhow. These Arabian vessels are said to have 

frequented the Indian Ocean during the 11th Century 

AD for trading purposes. The word dhoni is speculated 

to have its origin in Kannada or Malayalam. The 

Kannada word for a small boat is doni, while the 

Malayalam word for a small boat is thoni. 

Wood from coconut palm trees 

The traditional dhoni were sailing vessels that used 

lateen sails, and were made of coconut palm timber. 

Coconut trees are one of the most common trees in 

the country, and the traditional boat builders used the 

wood from the coconut tree since it was the only boat 

building material readily available to them during 

earlier times. Coconut palm timber is not the most 

ideal material for boat building, but the wood is trusted 

for its incorruptibility and solidity. 

“We made the hulls of the boats from coconut 

timber and coconut timber is not used anywhere 

else in the world in boat building. However, there 

is no other tree in the Maldives from which we can 

get that amount of long straight wood. So that’s why 

we say that the length of the boat is dependent on 

the height of the tree,” explains Ahmed Wajeeh, 

Managing Director and Senior Consultant Naval 

Architect at Optimum Solutions Pvt. Ltd. 

According to Wajeeh, while there are not many trees 

that grow tall in the Maldives, even those that grow 

tall have bends in their shapes and this is the fact that 

has limited the size of ancient Maldivian boats to a 

maximum of about 50 feet. 



Kissaru Wadaan 

Kissaru wadaan is the name used by the locals to 

refer to the art of traditional boat building, and the 

carpenters who work on building boats are referred to 

as kissaru wadin. Boat building in the Maldives used 

to be done without any drawings or plans. A head 

carpenter would simply give out the instructions and 

measurements to the other carpenters. Around 8 

carpenters were usually involved in the process and it 

took roughly 8 to 12 months to build one boat. Some 

islands of the Maldives are especially well known for 

the art of kissaru wadaan. These include Alifushi in Raa 

Atoll and Velidhoo in Noonu Atoll. 

According to Ali Hassan, Managing Director and 

Chief Naval Architect of Maldives Marine Services 

Pvt. Ltd, Maldivian boat building has its own special 

characteristics. “The raised bow and curved tiller arm 

are two special features of Maldivian boats. This is 

how you can identify a Maldivian boat, even when it’s 

adrift,” he says. 


35



Arrival of modernity and tourism 

Due to the increasing exposure to modernity and the 

arrival of tourism, it was during the early 80s that these 

boats with their own special Maldivian features began 

to evolve. 

Maldives opened its borders to tourists in the 

late 70s and along with the opening of the first few 

tourist resorts, the nation’s liveaboard industry also 

began to stir into life. The first of the liveaboards 

were traditional dhonis with their lateen sails, slightly 

modified so that tourists can sleep, eat, and live on the 

vessel. But soon, they started becoming mechanised. 

And this trend also began to be mirrored by the fishing 

vessels. For the fishermen, the addition of the motors 

did increase their fuel costs. However, due to better 

mobility and speed, the fishermen saw their catches 

double. By the mid-90s, most of the fishing vessels 

registered in the country were mechanised. 

According to Philippe Laurella, a long time boat 

builder and a veteran of the Maldivian liveaboard 

industry, “The evolution of boat construction lead to 

the standardisation of the design, especially for the 

safari boats, and today, they look like something similar 

to a mega yacht but in a smaller size.” Phillipe built one 

of the first liveaboard vessels of the country. He named 

it Baraabaru, and according to him it was inspired by 

the design of the Maldivian sea vessel bahtheli. 

Once the mechanisation of the wooden boats went 

into full swing, Maldivian boat builders also came 

across the need to look into other building materials. 

“When the construction was done by only using wood, 

it looked nice, but the problem was maintenance. Year 

after year, the (maintenance) cost becomes higher and 

the time that the boats spend stocked on the dry dock 

becomes longer,” explains Phillipe. 

Fiberglass 

Maldivian boat builders chose the solution of building 

them using fibreglass; a material that would provide 

waterproof boats without any infiltration of water. 

According to Wajeeh, “The most important factor to 

consider when selecting boat building materials is the 

weight strength ratio, and fibreglass is an ideal material 

because its weight strength ratio is very low, meaning 

strong structures can be made by using it thinly.” 

However, Wajeeh notes that while fibreglass has its 

beneficial characteristics, it is also very hazardous to 

the environment. 

Apart from fibreglass, Maldivian boat builders are 

also now using imported wood and other such suitable 

materials. 

Still Evolving 

No longer constrained by the height of the coconut 

trees, Maldives now produces boats that are even as 

long as 100 feet. Most of them equipped with diesel 

engines, today’s vessels come with convenience 

and speed. They are often equipped with the latest 

technology and feature the latest trends in passenger 

comfort and navigational safety. 

The shapes, the construction techniques, and 

the materials have evolved so far from the humble 

sailing dhoni made from coconut palm wood. And 

the traditional art of building a boat without using a 

drawing is also becoming something that’s known and 

practiced by only a handful of craftsmen. 


37



TURTLE 

POWER 

WORDS ADELE VERDIER-ALI 


39

The Coco Collection islands 

are deeply invested in the 

ocean and with marine 

biologist Chiara Fumagalli 

spearheading the in-house 

conservation projects, local 

turtles are finding refuge 

and protection. 

At any of the three Coco Collection resorts, 

it’s impossible not to feel an immediate 

proximity to the natural world. These 

secluded islands, each protected by 

ancient coral reef structures, feel at once 

exposed to the elements and yet sheltered from 

the world. With such a strong connection to the 

environment being at the heart of the resorts, it is 

unsurprising to discover that the islands place great 

importance on ensuring that their operations do not 

harm or threaten the surrounding ocean, reefs and 

beaches. In fact, the islands go one step further and 

aim to have a positive impact on their surroundings 

and believe that it is possible for resorts to be vehicles 

of conservation, awareness and environmental 

responsibility. 

Spearheading this mission is Chiara Fumagalli. 

Effervescent, dedicated and passionate, Chiara is the 

resort’s resident marine biologist. Hailing from Milan, 

in northern Italy, Chiara has been at the forefront of 

the resorts’ conservation efforts for more than three 

years. With a bachelor’s degree in natural sciences 

and a master’s degree in marine biology, she has 

applied her academic studies with pragmatism to 

establish eco-friendly initiatives that work in a resort 

environment. 

As I sit down with her to discuss the latest initiative 

in Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu – the founding, building 

and overseeing of a sea turtle rehabilitation centre on 

the resort in partnership with local NGO Olive Ridley 

Project – it becomes evident that Chiara believes that 

tourists hold the key to protecting fragile ecosystems. 

“What I’ve learnt during my career as a marine 

biologist is that you can only protect that which has an 

economic value. If you provide an animal with economic 

value then it becomes easier to protect it,” she 

says. “When tourists choose to spend their holiday in a 

particular place because there’s a chance they might 

have an encounter with a turtle, dolphin or shark, then 

it becomes easier to protect those species. That’s 

why I believe that guests have a chance to make a 

real difference.” 

When studying for her master’s, Chiara chose to 

study the positive impact of whale-watching trips in 

the Mediterranean Sea. What she discovered was that 

day-trippers and tourists could provide researchers 

with valuable data about the animals. She applies the 

same thinking at Coco Collection. 

Coco Bodu Hithi, Coco Privé Kuda Hithi and Coco 

Palm Dhuni Kolhu all offer exciting snorkelling and 

diving excursions, which provide guests with incredible 

opportunities to encounter endangered marine species 

in their natural habitats. However, the spectacular 

experience of seeing these beautiful creatures is not 

the end point of these trips. When guests manage to 

capture clear photos of hawksbill turtles or manta rays 

with their underwater cameras, Chiara invites them 

to share the shots with her. She then uses the shared 

photos to identify individual specimens and tracks 

their appearances in a database. Chiara then shares 

this information with marine biology organisations 

across the country. With such a simple act, guests 

are then contributing valuable data to a network of 

marine scientists and helping them to gain important 

information about population sizes and habits. 

In fact, guest participation in the identification 

of turtles has been so successful that now 25% of 

ID shots are from guest photos. “There are many 

turtles in our database that I have personally never 

encountered,” says Chiara, “so it goes to show that 

they can really make a positive contribution to 

research during their holidays.” 

In addition to the very successful turtle ID 

programme, Chiara and her team also have a close 

relationship with the local green turtles. These gentle 

creatures use the beaches of Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu 

to lay their eggs. As these turtles return to the beaches 

where they were born when it is time for them to 

lay their own eggs, there is a steady stream of nests. 

The resort takes upmost care to ensure they are not 



Chiara Fumagalli leads the marine 

biology team at Coco Collection 

Green turtles can be spotted 

while scuba diving throughout the 

Maldives 

disturbed. There are no lights on the beach so as not to 

disorientate the turtles and fences are erected around 

the nests, to protect them. Guests are invited to watch 

the incredible occurrence when a nest is laid and when 

they hatch – an unforgettable holiday memory – but 

Chiara ensures that no flash photography is used and 

that the guests stay a good distance away. 

At Dhuni Kolhu, Chiara often crosses paths 

with another breed of turtle; the olive ridley. Largely 

oceanic throughout the majority of their lives, 

unfortunately this breed comes on the radar 

only when it’s in trouble. “For a variety of reasons, 

including currents, our location and our dedicated 

team, we keep finding a high number of stranded ghost 

nets and injured olive ridley turtles,” says Chiara. Ghost 

nets, Chiara explains, are abandoned, dumped or lost 

fishing nets that drift throughout the ocean, often 

clumping together and trapping sea life as they go. 

Due to their oceanic habitats, olive ridleys are most at 

risk of getting entangled. Although fishing with nets 

is illegal in the Maldives, currents bring them to the 

islands, all the way from Sri Lanka, India and Pakistan. 

“If the turtles are badly injured, it’s often difficult 

to find them somewhere to recuperate,” Chiara says. 

“There’s only one turtle centre nearby and it’s always 

full to capacity.” Local NGO, Olive Ridley Project, was 

set up in 2012 to raise awareness of this issue and to 

track where the nets are coming from. 

With Dhuni Kolhu removing the highest number of 

ghost nets in the Maldives, Chiara knew that the resort 

could be part of the solution. “I kept thinking that there 

had to be something else we could do to help the 

turtles of the Maldives,” Chiara explains. With this in 

mind, the idea to build a turtle rehabilitation centre in 

partnership with the Olive Ridley Project was born. 

As soon as the idea came to her, Chiara drew up a 

proposal to present to the resort’s senior management. 

Turtles of all species are so inherent to the resort’s 

unique environmentally aware culture that they 

accepted it immediately. Within a few weeks, an 

agreement was signed with the NGO; Coco Palm Dhuni 

Kolhu would raise funds to build a turtle rehabilitation 

centre on site, whilst the Olive Ridley Project would 

provide guidance, support and general know-how. 

Currently, Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu is raising funds to 

build the centre by adding an optional $10 surcharge 

to guests’ bills. In addition, they are selling colourful 

turtle soft toys, which have been crafted in Sri Lanka 

from gorgeous hand-woven fabrics. With the majority 

of guests choosing to donate in these ways, the centre 

is well on track and building work will commence 

before the year is out. 

With such extensive conservation efforts 

established in all Coco Collection resorts, and with the 

exciting prospect of a rehabilitation centre becoming 

a reality, Chiara’s belief that tourism holds the key 

to conservation is being proved right. With such an 

emphasis on nurturing sustainable, caring resorts, Coco 

endangered creatures with voice. As such, they are a 

part of the very core of these islands. 


41

Beach morning glory or Goat’s foot 

Dhivehi name: Than’buru 


FLORA & FAUNA 

Trees of the 

Maldives 

WORDS MARIYAM ATHIZA ATHIF, ILLUSTRATIONS EAGAN BADEEU 

A surprising variety of plants have 

put down roots in the little soil the 

Maldives has to offer, embodying the 

resilience of the islands and all its 

inhabitants. 


43

Being consistently warm and humid, the 

climate of the Maldives is ideal for luxuriant 

growth of tropical trees and shrubs. 

However, when compared to other tropical 

regions, the low-lying coral islands of the 

Maldives are challenging grounds for plants. There are 

hardly any nutrients in the soil, and freshwater is only 

available during the rainy season. 

It’s believed that no plants are indigenous to the 

Maldives. The 300 or so plant species that have 

colonised the Maldives arrived from neighbouring 

continents. Sometimes seeds arrived stuck to the 

feathers of visiting birds and sometimes they were 

carried in by the sea current. The sea current also 

brought in parts of plants and occasionally an entire 

specimen! For successful colonisation, all of these 

plant species had to be saltwater tolerant and capable 

of extracting freshwater from seawater. 

Apart from the plant species that journeyed to the 

Maldives, around the same number of species have 

been brought in and cultivated by man for food, timber, 

building materials, and sometimes simply for their 

beauty. 

The plant communities found in the Maldives can be 

divided into four groups. There are those hardy ones 

that live on the foreshore, those that live on the beach 

crest and those that live in the relatively comfortable 

environment of the inner islands. Additionally there 

are a number of mangrove plants that grow in the 

Maldives. Those species are mainly found in enclosed 

or semi-enclosed brackish water bodies, or in muddy 

areas. In this issue, we will look in detail at the plants 

found in the first two categories. 

Plants of the foreshore 

The lower beach zone that extends from the high tide 

line to the low tide mark is a harsh environment. It’s 

exposed to wave action, wind and salt spray. The soil 

is unstable and consists of coarse coral and shingle. 

Due to the severe conditions of this zone, vegetation 

is scarce except for some occasional creeping sand 

binders and a few other species. 

Beach morning glory or Goat’s foot 

Dhivehi name: Than’buru 

This is a tough salt resistant plant that prefers 

to grow on the upper levels of the beach dunes. 

From there it colonises the lower beach areas 

by sending out long sprawling runners. This 

creeper bears beautiful blue and red flowers 

and produces salt water resistant seeds that 

float. This is an important stabiliser of sandy 

shore ecosystems. 

Bigfoot sedgeat’s foot 

Bigfoot sedge, a typical feature of sandy tropical 

beaches, grows close to the shoreline and 

comes with a ball shaped flower head. 

Stabilisers and 

windbreakers of 

the beach crest 

The beach crest or the beach top includes a stable 

area consisting of coral sand and rubble. Similarly to 

the lower beach, this area is also exposed to winds 

and salty spray, and occasionally gets inundated by 

seawater. However, it provides a suitable environment 

for a number of trees, shrubs, sand-binding creepers 

and herbaceous plants that often serve as a protective 

barrier for the plants located in the inner island. 

Fan flower 

Dhivehi name: Magoo 

Besides the coconut palm, the fan flower is 

probably the most common plant in Maldives. 

This woody shrub bears small white flowers that 

look like fans. The fan flower community forms 

an effective windbreak of about 3 to 4 feet. 

Tree heliotrope 

Dhivehi name: Boashi 

The tree heliotrope has been found to be 

dominant in the plant community of the beach 

crest especially in the northern islands of the 

Maldives. These woody beach plants can grow 

up to 6 metres in height and are located quite 

close to the high tide line. However, because 

they don’t grow too close together, they don’t 

form effective windbreakers. 

Iron wood 

Dhivehi name: Kuredhi 

This is a dense shrub with small white flowers. 

Bay cedar 

Dhivehi name: Halaveli 

This multi branched low-lying shrub with small 

leaves is an important stabilizer of the sandy 

coastal ecosystem. This shrub with small leaves 

occurs frequently on the beaches of many 

tropical countries. 


FLORA & FAUNA 

Bay cedar 

Dhivehi name: Halaveli 


45

46 BREEZE BY COCO COLLECTION SEPTEMBER 2015 

Huni gon’di

CUISINE 

The 

Melting 

Pot 

WORDS NASHIU ZAHIR, PHOTOS YASSIN HAMEED/F8PRO 

The Maldives has maintained trade routes 

with its spice-rich overseas neighbours for 

centuries. The result? A distinct local cuisine 

that has combined cooking know-how from 

across the region. 

Noted 14th century traveller and explorer, 

the Moroccan Ibn Batuta observed that 

after a vessel docked in the Maldives, it 

was customary for men to approach it 

with gifts of young coconut and betel, 

South Asian treats. In her book, Classical Maldivian 

Cuisine, Aishath Shakeela notes that those who accept 

such gifts were invited to stay at the men’s homes 

and treated as family. Travellers then depart from the 

country with gifts, including food that does not perish 

quickly, prepared by the womenfolk of the household. 

Historically, Maldivians acquired necessities from 

Sri Lanka, India and Bangladesh; bartering cowries and 

food items including dried fish, rihaakuru (fish paste) 

sweet potato, breadfruit, taro and sweets such as 

bondi, halvaa, fathuli hakuru. The basic food items they 

received in exchange were rice, caster sugar, corn flour, 

condensed milk, salt and spices. This had an impact 

on the food that was made in the country, adding new 

facets to local cuisine. 

Curry, which has since become a staple across 

the country, would have been born through trade; 

curries need spices, which are not indigenous to the 

Maldives. They are very likely to have come through 

trade with South Asian and South-East Asian nations. 

One example of such is a dry chicken curry called 

kukulhu mussama, the ingredients of which include 

peanuts and raisins. The dish is not very typical of 

Maldivian fare and is probably a variation of the 

Thai masamman curry; itself thought to have roots in 

Persian Muslim cuisine. 

As may be expected there are commonalities in 

food among all the atolls but the dispersed nature of 

the atolls gave rise to variety in food in different parts 

of the country. In the south of the country for instance, 

taro was a staple food, whereas the northerners’ diet 

essentially consisted of breadfruit and mangrove. 

Below are some specialties from the three main 

divisions of the archipelago. 


47

Even though land is scarce, the locally 

grown ingredients are what make the 

Maldivian dishes taste unique 

Specialities 

of the North 

Haalu Folhi 

This is a specialty of the island Haa Dhaalu 

Kulhudhuffushi; an ultra-thin pan cake made with rice, 

eggs, pulverised sugar and jasmine water. A snack with 

a subtle sweetness and a hint of egg, it is prized by 

many Maldivians especially those in Male’. 

Kuhlhavah Fani 

A specialty of the island of Noonu Landhoo, this is a 

drink made with mangrove apple (Sonneratia Alba), 

sugar and water. Sweet with a bit of tartness, it is a 

delicious drink to sip, chilled, on a sunny day. 

Specialities of 

Central Maldives 

Hobelehey’yo 

A specialty of the island Raa Kandholhudhoo, this is 

a kind of dry curry, made with smoked tuna and an 

array of spices including fennel, cumin, peppercorns, 

coriander, and seasoned with rampe leaves and salt. 

A spicy dish, it is typically served with rice and is 

featured at special occasions. 

Hanaakuri Madimas 

A specialty from Alif Dhaalu Fenfushi, this dish is no 

longer cooked as it contained ray (madi) flesh, which is 

now illegal to catch. The ray was boiled in brine and its 

flesh was later heated in a wok with grated coconut. It 

used to be served as an accompaniment to rice. 


CUISINE 

Until recently, Maldivians cooked 

on an open fire inside their homes 

Before cooking the rice, bad grains were removed 

by hand. This is called “Han’doo hovun” 

Curry powder used to be made 

by mixing different types of local 

spices and leaves together using a 

manual grinder 

Specialities 

of the South 

Geshi Ala 

A specialty from Gnaviyani Foahmulah, this is a 

simple, tasty dish made of cocoyam, jasmine water 

and coconut palm syrup. It can be enjoyed on its own 

or paired with smoked tuna. 

Kulhi Bis Fathafolhi 

This comes from the island of Meedhoo in Addu Atoll. 

It is a savoury pancake made with eggs, using fish 

paste (rihaakuru) and flavoured with lime, ginger and 

peppers. A thoroughly enjoyable snack between meals. 

These dishes are only a fraction of what different 

atolls have on offer; almost each island has some 

unique dish, or an idiosyncratic interpretation of an 

existing one. A journey through the islands will reveal 

connecting points, bridges between the people, and 

areas of unique inventiveness. 


49

Coco Cook up! 

WORDS NASHIU ZAHIR 

Take a slice of our cuisine home and serve up some holiday memories. 

The Chef: Faiz Idrees 

Faiz Idrees is a charming man by all means. Selfassured 

and merry among guests at the resort, 

communicating fluently in both English and French, 

you get the feeling of someone who is in his element. 

He is Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu’s executive chef, and 

though he has only been at the resort for a few months, 

it is evident that he feels at home. But things were 

not always so straightforward for him; his is a story of 

perseverance, of working one’s way up from the very 

bottom. 

He comes from a large family, which is not unusual 

in the Maldives. His native island, Eydhafushi, is Baa 

Atoll’s most populated island, and also its capital. His 

father had a boat, and was well respected although the 

family was not by any means well off. 

Faiz came to Male’ for further studies after 

completing grade seven in his native island. But his 

hopes to achieve higher education were dashed. “The 

family I stayed with expected me to work for them to 

earn my keep,” he explains. “I was their servant to be 

honest. So I really had no time for school or studies.” 

When he was sixteen years old he was introduced 

to life on a resort at Club Med’s Farukolhufushi. “I 

wasn’t really interested in much at the time, had no 

particular interests,” says Faiz. “But it was a different 

environment, and quite fun, a far cry from what I’d 

been used to.” 

He began work washing plates in the kitchen. 

Because of his knowledge of English, which was 

comparatively better than his peers and even some of 

his superiors, he soon became important. “The chef 

would brief me every day,” he recalls. “And I would 

translate his instructions for my superiors in the 

kitchen.” 

His newfound importance, his keenness and 

convivial personality led him to opportunities to be 

trained abroad. He had spent time training and working 

in Japan, Australia, New Caledonia, (where he picked 

up French), Mauritius, and places closer to home, in 

Indonesia, Malaysia and Thailand. 

His hard work paid off in 2002, when he was 

promoted to executive chef at a property in Bali. Soon 

however, he came back to the Maldives. Today he 

heads a team of 52 staff in Dhuni Kolhu, catering to 

the tastes of more than 200 guests every day. It is 

challenging but given his background Faiz is well 

prepared. 

At Dhuni Kolhu, Faiz feels at home, and he goes 

about his business with an enthusiasm befitting a 

much younger man. “I’m very glad to be in Dhuni 

Kolhu,” he says. “I have an excellent team here. Also, 

I’d been meaning to work for a Maldivian company for 

a while. I spent half my life with Club Med, I have no 

regrets about that but I’m very pleased to be with a 

local company. I feel like I’m part of the family here.” 


COCO RECIPES 

The Recipes: 

Herb crusted lamb rack 

Seared sea scallops 

with scented curry foam 

Scallop 

Cherry tomato 

Guacamole 

Orange 

Olive oil 

Basil leaves 

Pink pepper corn 

Curry spices mixed 

Unit 

no. 

no. 

tbsp 

no. 

tbsp 

bunch 

piece 

tbsp 

Method 

Sear the scallops in a large non-stick skillet with olive 

oil. Season the scallops with salt, curry spices and cook 

for 3 minutes. Prepare guacamole paste and roast the 

tomatoes. Serve the scallops mounted on a thick slice 

of orange with the guacamole, roasted cherry tomato, 

and drizzle with curry dressing. Garnish with the fresh 

basil leaves and decorate with pink peppercorn. This 

dish can be serve either hot or cold. 

Qty 

3 

6 

2 

1 

2 

1 

6 

2 

Chicken broth 

1 tablespoon Butter 

Uncooked couscous 

Grated parmesan cheese 

Fresh bread crumbs 

Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 

Chopped fresh mint 

Minced fresh rosemary 

Salt 

1/4 teaspoon Black pepper 

3 1/2 tablespoons Olive oil 

3 frenched racks of lamb (8 ribs and 1 1/2 lb 

each rack), trimmed of all but a thin layer of 

fat, then brought to room temperature 

2 tablespoons dijon mustard 

Lamb jus 

Mix vegetables blanched 

Butter for sauted vegetable 

Unit 

ml 

tbs 

gms 

tbs 

gms 

tbs 

tbs 

tbs 

to taste 

to taste 

tbs 

gms 

tbs 

ml 

gms 

tbs 

Method 

Put oven rack in middle position and preheat to 400° F. 

Season lamb with salt and pepper. Heat remaining 

tablespoon of oil in a large heavy skillet over moderately 

high heat until hot but not smoking, then brown lamb 

1 rack at a time, turning once, about 4 minutes per 

rack. Transfer to a roasting pan, arranging fatty sides 

up. Spread fatty sides of each rack with 2 teaspoons 

mustard. Divide bread crumb mixture into 3 portions 

and pat each portion over mustard coating on each rack, 

gently pressing to adhere. Roast the lamb at 130° f for 

20 to 25 minutes. Mount the plate as shown on the 

picture with sauted vegetables and lamb jus and serve 

with creamy couscous. 

Qty 

200 

2 

100 

2 

100 

1 

1 

1 

1 

200 

1 

50 

100 

2 


51



Take the 

plunge 

WORDS ADELE VERDIER-ALI, PHOTOS SHAAHINA ALI 

The Maldivian sea is brimming with life, 

colour and beauty - follow these tips 

and stay safe out there! 

When in the Maldives, it’s easy to forget 

that the entire country is built on a living, 

growing foundation. The reason for the 

country’s entire existence is the presence of 

the coral reefs upon which the islands were 

formed so many millions of years ago, and which today 

encircle all but one of the Maldives 1,190 isles. The 

Maldives is a coral nation, making it not only fragile but 

also utterly beautiful. 

Many of these living, developing and changing coral 

reefs lie only metres below the surface, at the edge 

of shallow lagoons. They swarm with life. Fish of all 

colours, shapes and sizes stream through the warm 

tropical waters. Coral reefs may only cover 1% of the 

ocean floor, but an estimated 25% of all marine life 

inhabits these ecosystems. Turtles, reef sharks, and 

rays all cohabit these stretches of natural, underwater 

fortifications. As such, spending hours drifting along 

the drop-off, observing this frenetic, subaquatic world 

is a must when holidaying the Maldives. 

Snorkelling. With water temperatures hovering 

about 27°C, it’s one of the Maldives’ simplest 

pleasures. Yet, with all things, there are always 

precautions worth taking to make sure you stay safe. 

To ensure that your time snorkelling at Coco Collection 

resorts is the magical experience it should be, be 

careful to follow these simple steps whilst in the water. 

If you’ve never swum in the ocean or used snorkelling 

equipment before, make sure you inform the dive or 

water sports centre before going in the water. The 

trained staff will help you choose the right equipment 

(including a life jacket, if necessary) and speak to you 

about safety. Also, we highly recommend you join a 

guided snorkelling trip before entering the water alone. 

Never swim alone. Always make sure you swim with 

a buddy. If you are in a group, assign yourself a buddy 

before entering the water and make sure you keep 

them within sight at all times. This will make you feel 

safer and lowers the chance of problems arising. 

Make sure you are familiar with your equipment. 

Ensure you have the correct size fins, that your mask 

fits correctly and doesn’t leak and that your snorkel 

is attached in the proper manner. This will make 

your snorkelling experience more enjoyable and 

comfortable. 

Be aware of the ocean. There are currents in the ocean, 

and their strength and direction change all the time. 

Pay attention to the currents, the waves and the swell 

and be conscious of the direction you are headed. Do 

not head too far out or you might get tired when 

it comes to returning to the beach. If you feel like 

conditions are changing, head back to the shore. 

Don’t touch or step on any marine life. The coral reefs 

here are extremely fragile and take a long time to grow 

even a small amount. By ensuring you don’t touch 

them, you are protecting them for years to come, as 

well as preventing possible cuts or injuries to yourself. 

Take care of yourself. Remember to stay hydrated, 

protected from the sun with either a high factor 

sunscreen or UV resistant clothing (sunscreen can 

be harmful to corals, so we recommend you choose 

clothing where possible and additional sunscreen on 

exposed skin). Stay within your and your buddy’s limits 

and comfort zones. 


53

One of the greatest precautions we can take to avoid injury whilst snorkelling, is to educate 

ourselves about the creatures we may encounter. Whilst some may worry about sharks, the 

reef sharks here are completely harmless, shy even. However, the following reef tenants are 

those you want to take care around: 

Coral 

Corals are sharp and painful and can cause deep 

cuts. Some species, such as fire coral, can cause 

painful irritation. Avoid stepping on, touching or 

swimming too close to the coral beds. 

Lionfish 

Lionfish are beautiful, exotic fish. They are not 

quick to hide and allow swimmers to approach 

them. But beware not to touch them! The thorns on 

their backs are connected to poisonous glands that 

cause a very painful sting. 

Stonefish 

The stonefish lies motionless on top of corals and 

merges in to its surroundings with its incredible 

camouflage skills. The stonefish is known as the 

most poisonous fish on the planet, carrying their 

poison in the spines on their backs. The pain from 

a small prick will be intolerable! Immediate first aid 

is required. Stonefish are another reason why it is 

important not to touch the coral, as you may not 

spot them. 

Sea Urchin 

Sea urchins are mainly found attached to the coral 

bed, or on coral rubble. The urchins have sharp, thin 

spines that are very brittle. If you were to step on 

one, the needle-like spine would detach and stay 

lodged in your foot, causing a throbbing pain. If 

not removed, there’s a chance the injury could get 

infected, too. Avoid stepping on sea urchins by not 

walking on the coral. 



Anemone 

The anemone has tentacles that it uses for catching 

prey that, if touched, will cause a burning, itching 

sensation, followed by redness and swelling. Observe 

their beautiful colours from a safe distance. 

Triggerfish 

This oval, yellow fish is extremely territorial when 

nesting and breeding. They actively chase away 

invaders that approach their nests and may bite if 

approached. Their teeth are incredibly strong and 

their bites can cause serious injury. Always stay a 

cautious distance away from triggerfish. 

Cone shell 

These attractive shells are actually some of the 

most dangerous animals living on the reef. They can 

deliver a sting that has been known to at times have 

fatal consequences. The dart-like sting is so tiny 

that you will not feel it at first, but the effect will 

start to take effect within 15 minutes. Never pick up 

shells to avoid getting stung. 

Stingray 

Stingrays are beautiful, shy animals that are not 

aggressive. They only become a threat if you get 

too close, touch, or step on them. They can often 

be found lying on sandy bottoms, and like to 

nestle into the sand, which means they are sometimes 

very well camouflaged. Their long barbed 

tails can administer a sting that can be life 

threatening. When in the lagoons, be aware of 

where you are putting your feet. 


55

Dyeing 

Arts 

WORDS AMINATH ISHRATH, PHOTOS HUSSAIN SHAZ 

Traditional handicrafts are at peril of vanishing across 

the globe. Yet in a far-flung corner of the Maldives, 

Aminath Ishrath meets a woman determined to keep 

the art of Maldivian dyeing and weaving alive. 


ARTS & CULTURE 


57

South Huvadhoo Atoll in the Maldives is best 

known for its world-class surf breaks and 

dive spots to which many liveaboards flock. 

But my purpose to visit this gem of an atoll 

is to personally meet up with Aminafaanu 

from the island of Gadhdhoo, a lovely lady I have been 

chatting with over the phone a few days before my trip, 

who has been weaving thundu kunaa for almost four 

decades. As I sit on the plane looking out at the many 

deserted islands dotted almost next to each other, it 

hits me that this was the first time I am travelling this 

far south in the Maldives. 

After a choppy speedboat ride from Kaadedhdhoo 

Airport, I step onto the island of Gadhdhoo and the 

warm welcome by Aminafaanu and her friends is 

comforting. Her quaint home by the beach is a far cry 

from the bustling city and I welcome the quiet happily. 

As I dip into one of the hammocks hanging in the 

backyard to have a proper chat with her about the art 

of weaving these intricate mats, she is already calling 

out to more of her friends to gather around and share 

their stories. 

This particular mat weaved with a type of dried 

weed is known in Dhivehi as thundu kunaa or 

Huvadhoo kunaa, an intricate piece of work that 

is mostly crafted by women. Since the island of 

Gadhdhoo is most well-known for this handicraft, 

I am expecting Aminafaanu to tell me all about 

how this skill was handed down to her from older 

generations of her family. However, even though she 

has been weaving these mats for almost 40 years, she 

simply got into it out of pure interest and curiosity. 

The ladies tell me stories of how they have always 

remembered the island being renowned for this 

handicraft in particular and spoke of the days when 

the islanders travelled to Ceylon and brought back 

sketched patterns, which the mat weavers followed 

and developed into their own styles and designs. 

Few things are certain when you see a thundu 

kunaa; the work is elaborate, each weaver has their 

own twist to the design (which reminds me of how 

old bake houses identify their bread with signature 

scoring), the retail price appears pretty hefty and the 

finished product is simply a beautiful work of art. But 

the complicated process of gathering the materials and 

the hours spent to weave a single mat are lost on most 

people yet become much appreciated and valued after 

you take it all in. 

It all starts with cyperacea, a weed that grows in 

wetlands, known in Dhivehi as hai or in the dialect of 

the ladies, hau. Usually picked from the neighbouring 

farming island Gan or from Fiyoari, another island in 

the atoll, the hau need about 4-5 days to dry out in the 

sun. Once dry, they resemble shades of fawn or beige 

and are sorted into two piles, one is to discard of the 

ones that are broken (quality control sure is strict with 


ART & CULTURE 

“When you see a thundu 

kunaa; the work is elaborate, 

each weaver has their own 

twist to the design.” 

these ladies) and the other pile is to separate hau that 

are slightly more fawn-coloured, which will then be 

dyed black and ochre yellow. 

The preparation of the dyes is one of the most time 

consuming phases of getting all the materials ready 

and it sure looks like there is no easy way to obtain the 

black colour. A mixture of rusty iron pieces and coconut 

water are kept covered for around 15 days, after which 

it is poured into a pot lined with stripped bark from a 

tree, onu gas thoshi as they called it, and some of the 

separated hau that are slightly more fawn coloured. 

This mixture is cooked for 15 – 20 days until the hau 

is stained black. I know what you are thinking; surely 

there must be an alternative! These ladies have tested 

quite a few options such as artificial packaged dyes, 

toner inks and even tried to create their own black dye 

using crepe paper but have not been able to work with 

the results. As they explain, it is fascinating to see how 

the old way still works the best. 

Comparatively, the yellow dye is a bit simpler to create. 

The root of great morinda, known as ahi gas moo in 

Dhivehi, is cooked in seawater for about 2 hours after 

which ground turmeric and some of the separated hau 

that is slightly more fawn coloured is added to form 

the ochre yellow that are woven into the mats. 

The loom itself is also created on the island by 

skilled carpenters. Very thin strips of sea hibiscus tree 

bark, known as dhiggaa gahu thoshi is woven onto 

the frame before the mat weaving can begin. About 

the size of a single bed, this loom takes up quite a lot 

of space and it is common for these ladies to have a 

dedicated space outside their home for this. While 

going about normal housework and daily chores, it can 

take up to two months to complete a four by two feet 

thundu kunaa. Usually sold to souvenir shops in different 

sizes nowadays, these mats used to be presented 

to royals and foreign dignitaries as gifts. 

There is honesty and nobility to this craft that 

Aminafaanu and her friends have been working 

on for decades and it was eye-opening to see the 

complicated process involved to understand the value 

of this complex art. As I board the plane back to the 

city with a box of mangoes and freshly fried taro chips, 

I cannot help but sincerely admire the work of these 

talented artisans. 


59

Fusing body 

and mind 


In the opening of Thelonious Monk’s famous jazz tune Round 

Midnight, a nimble piano roll from the highest to lowest register 

heralds what is to come. What follows is a mesmerising exercise in 

melody and harmony. It is slow and at times discordant, but in spite 

of this, there is a wholeness to the piece. There is unity. And as I 

lie on the massage table at the award winning Coco Spa, the tune 

comes to mind as I become a piano under skilled fingers. 

s the sun is slowly beginning its arc 

towards the sea behind me, I walk through a 

A green corridor on Coco Bodu Hithi. The 

sun-dappled ground, the rustle of leaves as 

a small animal, perhaps a lizard, takes flight 

sensing our advance, and somewhere in the 

distance, barely perceptible, the sound of the sea. 

We come to the end of the greenery, and the beach 

spreads out; pure, blinding white. A walkway leads 

to the overwater residences and the spa. The sprawl 

of the overwater spa brings to mind some of Monk’s 

own sprawling, inimitable work; both at first seem a 

combination of separate elements. The spa manager, 

Patthama Thongprom, or Patt as she goes by on the 

island, greets me warmly and my name is put down for 

a late afternoon spa treatment. I’m offered cold towels, 

some ice lemon tea, and I’m ushered to a seat. The tea 

is excellent, a much needed counterpoint to the heat. 

After tea, Patt takes me on a little tour of the place. 

There are various components: the spa boutique, which 

houses a wealth of luxury products such virgin coconut 

oil (from India), French balms, and essential oils. The 

pedicure and manicure lounge is set considerably apart 

from the treatment rooms “because,” explains Patt, “we 

want to keep the smell of chemicals far away.” 

The complex, which houses a sauna, steam room, 

and treatment rooms, is unified by a concept that 

is strikingly Maldivian, with distinct local touches; 

thatched roofs, elegant use of wood. Even the 

massaging rooms, cool, with teak floors and smelling 

of oriental herbs, are brought under a common theme. 

Each room is named after a different aspect of the 

coconut palm and their peaked roofs are thatched 

with dried palm fronds. Like Monk’s music, once you 

get a feel for it, a sense of harmony and cohesiveness 

exudes from the place. 


WELLNESS 

As I sit with Patt, she tells me that she’s been 

working in the field since 2002. At one point in her 

career she was overseeing nearly 20 spas located in 

the Asia Pacific region, including Egypt, Kuwait, Sri 

Lanka, Thailand and the Maldives. “It involved travelling 

quite a bit,” she laughs. “I don’t think I was in Thailand 

for more than five days at a stretch.” She took up the 

spa manager’s position at Bodu Hithi towards the end 

of last year and is pleased with her work and her team. 

“My team are very experienced, very professional,” she 

says. “Whether it‘s in a jungle or underwater, a spa is 

only as good as its service.” 

Back in my residence, as I sip from a bubbly drink, 

my mind is listless and my body is encumbered with 

the stresses of the capital, where I live. Even last 

week’s aches make their presence felt in various 

quarters. My body is the low, ponderous bass of the 

Monk tune, out of synch with my mind, which flits from 

thought to thought like his flourishes on the ivories. 

There is a clear disconnect between body and soul. The 

serene blue-green vista before me does nothing to still 

the mind’s tumult. 

When I arrive at the spa at precisely five o’clock I 

am directed into Raa, the first treatment room. There 

I lie prone on the massage bed, on its soft green silk. 

A gong sounds. It has begun. Soon, gentle, but firm 

touches begin to work their way up from my feet. I 

am an instrument. The exquisite hands belong to a 

maestro, working her will upon my body, improvising, 

yet grounded by the codes of an age old tradition, 

like the improvising jazz pianist to his theme. Now my 

thoughts are tied to this delight my body is experiencing. 

They are almost inseparable; body, soul. 

When I rise from the table and look through the 

glass doors, it is almost as if I am seeing the splendour 

of the lagoon for the first time. The dying light has 

burnt into the surrounds, the poignant goldenness of 

a precious memory. Everything seems to be in cosmic 

concord, and as I sit, again with a drink, and gaze upon 

the deepening hues, I begin to realise body and soul 

are one. It is far from midnight, but that final cadence 

of the Monk tune tinkles in my mind, and my body 

responds, joyously. 


61

Beach Beauty 

WORDS MARIYAM ATHIZA ATHIF, PHOTOS FASHIONSTOCK 

Whatever your style, this swimwear will 

guarantee you turn heads by the pool. 

The beach often makes you carefree. Sometimes it makes you adventurous; luring you into activities such as 

snorkelling and diving, while at other times it makes you spend lazy hours just lying about on a sunbed or 

hammock. Along with inducing states of minds that evaporate stress and seriousness, the beach also makes you 

let go of stiff weighty clothing, allowing room for experimentation, boldness and most importantly - fun. We 

all know that swimwear is not just for swimming. The good news about swimwear is that it has now become 

something that everyone can enjoy, regardless of personality or body type. 

The old school one 

piece revamped 

We’ve been seeing more and more 

of the traditional one-piece swimsuit 

during the last few years. What used 

to be boring and unadventurous 

has now made a comeback with 

unconventional necklines, sexy cutouts, 

feminine details and photo-realistic 

prints. These modern twists 

have transformed this near extinct 

swimwear option into something that 

is fun and daring while still providing 

some extra coverage for those who 

desire it. 

Retro Style 

It looks like the retro vibe is here to 

stay. High-waisted bikini bottoms are 

a staple piece of this funky style, and 

besides helping you look notoriously 

fashionable, they also allow you to 

enjoy a bit more coverage without forfeiting 

on style. 


FASHION TIPS 

Long Sleeves 

We’ve always thought of swimwear 

as something that maximises sun exposure 

and allows for gorgeous tans. 

Well these are definitely not for tanning. 

These high fashion offerings are 

for those glamorous ladies who want 

to make a statement on their sun 

loungers. 

High-neck crop top 

This is one of the cutest swimwear 

trends around. This too is probably 

not the best option for tanning, but 

the style brings on a certain freshness 

and is especially useful for partaking 

in water sports. 

Mesh and Sheer 

Ruffles and Frills 

We’ve been seeing a lot of ruffles and 

frills on both one and two piece swimwear 

recently. These lovely details 

communicate a girly mood, that’s both 

flirty and innocent. 

This is definitely not for spending sunny 

days on the beach. This is for those 

beach and pool parties where you 

want to look ultra-feminine and mysterious. 

These surely are a bit more revealing 

than your average swimwear, 

but since you are on vacation you 

might as well take a bold move and be 

a bit adventurous. 


63

TRAVEL 

TO 

TRANSFORM 

WORDS ADELE VERDIER-ALI 

Adele Verdier-Ali 

attends international 

health educator Dave 

Catudal’s Tranzend 

Body Wellness retreat 

at Coco Palm Dhuni 

Kolhu and finds that 

healthy living is just a 

few small steps away… 

F 

or most, a holiday signals a chance to recharge 

batteries, to recover from the stresses 

of everyday life and to restore low energy 

levels. Some prefer to remain poolside for a fortnight, 

others choose to spend time with a loved 

one, and there are those that might indulge at the 

spa. All equally tempting, all equally relaxing. 

But what about opting to hit the gym during a 

vacation? It seems less appealing. However, Dave 

Catudal – Director and Founder of innovative health 

company Tranzend and the Tranzend Body System – 

sees things differently. What if, instead of recharging 

your batteries, you could make them run differently 

altogether? What if, by inculcating new habits, learning 

to eat differently and making healthy choices, you 

could ensure your energy levels never needed topping 

up again? 

During his tailor-made Tranzend Body Wellness 

retreats, Catudal provides the space and knowledge 

to achieve just that. Having trained top models, 

Hollywood stars and professional athletes, he is no 

stranger to making people look and feel their best. 

During the month of August, Catudal brought his 

wealth of experience to the Maldives, exclusively at 

Coco Collection resorts. His two five-day retreats, first 

at Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu and then at Coco Bodu 

Hithi, were designed around the simple goal of making 

healthy living more accessible. 

I caught up with Catudal on the first day of the 

retreat to chat about his methods and to experience 

what he had in store for guests during his bespoke 

fitness getaways. And to my relief, there wasn’t a 

treadmill in sight. 

Having been a fitness coach and nutrition 

consultant for over 14 years, Catudal specialises in 

teaching the essentials of better living through a 


HEALTH 

balance of fitness, organic nutrition and mindfulness 

techniques. Author of The Physique Transformation 

Book, he sees his retreats and his books as indicative 

of his approach to wellness. “The book is a simplified 

guide to living better through adopting a more 

organic and active lifestyle, and just like in my wellness 

retreats, my methods of training and nutrition are all 

about making health fun,” he explains over a nutritious 

breakfast. 

As I don my dusty trainers and head over to Coco 

Palm Dhuni Kolhu’s yoga pavilion for a private fitness 

session, I can’t help but feel nervous. My relationship 

with fitness has always been sporadic and my relationship 

with food is, well, a full-blown love affair. However, 

as soon as I arrive I realise that my trepidation was 

unfounded. Dave instantly puts you at ease. His fitness 

methods are straightforward and his encouragement 

is genuine. By the end of the high intensity 35-minute 

session, I’ve definitely awoken some dormant muscles 

but I’ve had fun doing it. 

Yes, each day of a Tranzend retreat does revolve 

around physical fitness activities but replace visions 

of dreary half-hearted cardio with the possibility of 

professionally designed fitness routines, beach yoga 

and water activities in the inviting Indian Ocean. Add 

to the mix educational workshops that touch on 

everything from detox nutrition to hormone 

optimization, seminars on topics such as stress 

management and even a class on whipping up your 

very own raw vegan superfood smoothie and you’re 

much closer to what Catudal has in store. 

Correct nutrition is naturally one of the key elements 

of the retreats and prior to his residence on the Coco 

Collection islands, Catudal worked in conjunction 

with the resort’s chefs to design a menu for retreat 

participants that is not only healthy and perfect for 

losing fat but also mouth-wateringly delicious. “I like 

to prove to people that eating healthy doesn’t have 

to be boring! This is a great opportunity for guests to 

learn how to change their diet to include more healthy 

meals, and it’s inspiring to experience fine-dining that 

is also completely healthy,” he explains over a lunch of 

grilled fresh reef fish and steamed vegetables, 

followed by citrus fruits and shaved coconut. 

Later that day, I sit with Dave for a nutrition 

consultation and his suggestions seem manageable 

and realistic. He understands that I’ll never give up my 

afternoon latte, so instead recommends that I work on 

swapping my toast with jam for some poached eggs 

in the morning. He also explains that stress can be a 

major factor in weight gain, and we discuss stressreduction 

techniques. 

“When it comes to the health of our bodies, we 

must also exercise the health of the mind. I can’t 

think of a more ideal location to experience a holistic 

wellness retreat than the Maldives,” he says. “My aim 

is for guests to go home with a lighter, leaner and 

more healthy body, and a more balanced and peaceful 

mind.” 

As I return to my windswept beachside villa (a 

sanctuary in its own right) I reflect on my priorities. In 

a world where time is a commodity, pausing to focus 

on personal wellness is often mistaken as a luxury. 

Yet Dave has reminded me that an unhealthy life is a 

life half lived. And after just one day, I’ve learnt how 

to have more energy, more mental clarity and maybe 

just lose a few pounds along the way. I feel inspired to 

inculcate change in my own less-than-active life. 

And with those prospects on offer, leaving the 

poolside and dusting off my trainers has never looked 

so appealing. 


65

SKINCARE 

LAID BARE 


WELLBEING 

WORDS FATHIMATH LAMYA ABDULLA, PHOTOS YASSIN HAMEED/F8PRO 

We all know sunscreen is a must when holidaying 

in the tropics, but how else can we make sure our 

skin is looking its best when spending time in the 

salt, sand and sun? 

The equatorial tropical climate is what 

makes Maldives so very attractive 

to those that live in colder, frigid 

temperatures. Especially popular as a 

getaway destination during the harsh 

winters, the hot and humid weather is regarded as 

a welcome change by most. However, this change 

that you welcome with good grace might not be 

something that your skin welcomes so willingly. 

Anyone that has lived in one place for long would 

have perfected a skin care routine down to the dot 

according to their skin type and climate. However, 

before a trip to Maldives you might want to re-think 

your skin care rituals for the duration, as the 

procedures that you follow in cold or warm places may 

produce some unwanted or harmful effects on your 

skin in the hot and humid Maldives. 

Cleanse 

Humid weather can make your pores go into over-drive 

and produce more sweat to cool off your overheated 

body, which makes you more prone to breakouts, 

especially if you have oily skin. To avoid having oily 

skin full of excess sweat, wash your face at least once 

a day, using warm water and a non-comedogenic 

(does not block pores) skin cleanser. If you are prone 

to breakouts, you might also need to use an acne-care 

treatment that includes salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide 

as these help to naturally dry up the oil caused 

by the humidity while treating the pimple-causing 

bacteria. However, as these will increase your skin’s 

sensitivity to sunlight, it is advised to use them during 

night time. In a situation where you feel extra sweaty, 

just splash some lukewarm water on your face. This 

will wash away the sweat and open your pores without 

stripping your skin of its natural moisture. 

Moisturise 

Exposure to the sun can dry out the skin on your face 

and body, and can increase the risk of skin cancer. 

It is best to use a moisturiser that contains a broad 

spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 40 to 

protect your face and body from ultraviolet rays. It is 

advised to do this even on seemingly cloudy days in 

Maldives, as the weather here is quite unpredictable. 

When applying moisturiser on your face, skip the areas 

that produce the most oil, also known as the T-zone. 

The moisturiser may aggravate your already oily skin 

and make you more susceptible to breakouts. The 

T-zone generally covers your nose and the forehead 

right above your eyebrows. 

Humidity can be very good for your complexion 

too, as the damp air aids rapid cell turnover, leaving the 

epidermis soft and supple. However, humidity can also 

cause you to sweat and this can aggravate acne-prone 

skin. Furthermore, skin conditions like miliaria, a heat 

rash that occurs when sweat ducts are clogged, or 

folliculitis, the inflammation of hair ducts caused by 

microorganisms, may arise from getting over heated. 

There are several things that can be done to reduce 

the harmful effects of humid climate on your skin 

before they even start. Though the treatments to the 

various skin conditions may be different, the steps to 

successful prevention are quite the same. All you need 

to do is adapt your skin care routine to best suit the 

humidity, and remain cool to ward off the scorching 

heat. 

No Touching 

While you might experience an urge to wipe away the 

sweat and succumb to its complimentary itchiness, it is 

something that you must never do in humid weather. 

The ostensibly innocent action only spreads the dirt 

and oil present on your face, and may even introduce 

bacteria, making the already bad situation worse. 

Rather than wiping the sweat off with your hand try 

blotting your skin with a clean tissue. You can also use 

an oil-absorbing, skin-blotting cosmetic paper, that’s 

often sold from cosmetic stores. These extra-absorbent 

items help to suck the oil and sweat out of your skin 

giving you a more matte appearance. 

Exfoliate 

Humidity can cause dead cells to linger, rather than 

flake away as they would in drier climates. This is 

undeniably bad as it clogs pores and causes acne. 

Choose an oil free formula that contains round beads 

which are gentler on your skin compared to harsh 

grains. Follow up with a clay based mask to help 

absorb the oil. 

Stay cool 

One thing you must never be without in a humid 

climate such as the Maldives is a bottle of water. Drink 

plenty of water to keep yourself cool and hydrated. 

Additionally, it is best to wear cool clothing, nothing 

that will overheat your body or cause excessive 

sweating. Cotton and linen clothing would be the 

most suitable choice, accompanied by a hat. Doctors 

also do advice to shower at least twice a day using 

anti-bacterial soap. 


67

Every once in a while I look around, 

the quiet beach, the breathtaking 

moon above me and I smile to myself. 

This is so much better than sitting in 

a crowded cinema listening to people 

crunch and munch their popcorn.” 


EXPERIENCE 

Cinema Paradiso 

Movies under the moon 

WORDS Noona hussein 

Noona Hussein puts the world on hold as she slips away 

from the city and enjoys a night at the Coco Cinema. 

Reading a book or watching a movie is something 

I do when I want a distraction from reality. And 

there’s nowhere quite like a Maldivian resort if 

you’re looking to escape the real world for a while. 

So when I was invited to experience an open-air 

cinema at Coco Bodu Hithi, I jumped at the chance. 

Until then, I’d never experienced an outdoor cinema. 

And I will always remember the magic that 

was that beautiful night, at Coco Bodu Hithi… 

A 

rriving at the resort, the weather is absolutely 

perfect. Smooth, glassy ocean and the bright 

sun shining, I could not have asked for a more 

beautiful day. I’m welcomed at the jetty and I’m driven 

in a buggy to my ‘home for the night’, the Coco 

Residence. Built over the lagoon, and with its own 

infinity pool, the Coco Residence is a haven. I 

immediately change and climb into the pool, knowing 

I have a few hours before I am set to go to the cinema. 

As my toes hit the water, I put the outside world on 

hold. 

A long leisurely swim and a hot shower later, I dress 

for dinner and go to the main restaurant . The food is 

absolutely divine, and I thoroughly enjoy my meal. The 

waiters are friendly and ready to help and assist me in 

anything, so I feel set for the night. A couple of hours 

before the movie, I am given an iPad with a selection of 

movies to choose from. I look through it carefully before 

settling on one called ‘Playing for Keeps’, a Gerard 

Butler rom-com. 

The Coco Cinema is set up on a guest’s request, and 

the resort even offers private cinema viewings for 

couples requesting a bit of alone time. If it’s not a 

private setting, all guests are allowed to join in and 

enjoy the movie. 

I walk to the beach area by the pool and see that 

beanbag chairs and small side tables are already 

arranged, in front of a massive white screen. The sun 

has set and the moon is already out, making the ocean 

shimmer in sparkles under its light. The waves crash 

gently onto the beach and I nestle myself comfortably 

in a beanbag, close to the ocean, and once I am settled, 

the staff hits play and I am off to my virtual dreamland 

with Mr Butler. The sounds of the ocean and the winds 

are blocked out, and I forget reality for the next hour 

and a half. 

I enjoy the selection of salted nuts a waiter places 

to my side as he takes my order for a drink. The 

experience couldn’t be better. Every once in a while I 

look around, the quiet beach, the breathtaking moon 

above me and I smile to myself. This is so much better 

than sitting in a crowded cinema listening to people 

crunch and munch their popcorn loudly, because 

everything is better when done outdoors and under 

the stars. 

I let myself get carried away with the movie, sip on 

my fresh watermelon juice and nibble on my snacks. 

Every so often, I have to tear my eyes away from the 

screen and take a look around. Most of the guests have 

retired to their room after dinner, and it’s so quiet, 

except for the movie. Gentle winds brush against my 

skin and I pull my cardigan around me a little tighter. 

Nestled in a beanbag, I am very cozy. 

Of course, my virtual rom-com companions live 

happily ever after and my cinematic escape concludes. 

Having experienced the Coco Cinema, I am doubtful 

that I will enjoy movie theatres as much. The space, 

the tranquility and serenity at the Coco Cinema is not 

something that I get to experience in the city. I too 

retire to my residence and for one more night, I get to 

keep the world at bay. 


69


COCO FAMILY 

Meet 

the family 


Abul Hussain, Coco Collection’s 

longest serving associate, shares his 

journey from builder to bar captain 

Abul Hussain, a mild mannered 

but affable man from Comilla, 

Bangladesh, is one of the stars at 

Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu. As bar 

captain, he oversees the Beach 

Bar near the resort’s jetty. His working knowledge 

of several languages, including French, 

Italian and Japanese have helped endear him 

to many guests, especially those who choose 

to return year after year. 

The eldest of five children, Abul completed 

his schooling in Comilla, and enrolled at the 

city’s technical college. There he gained an 

understanding of the basics of hospitality. He 

came to the Maldives in the late 90s, hoping 

to find work at Dhuni Kolhu. It was a dream of 

his to work in hospitality, he says. But things 

did not go exactly as planned, as the resort 

was still under construction at the time. 

Thus Abul’s first taste of the Maldives 

ended up being that of an expatriate 

labourer’s. He worked diligently, never 

despairing despite the unfavourable hand he 

had been dealt. “I got along fine with everyone,” 

he says. “It wasn’t what I’d been hoping 

for but at least I got paid, was fed and had a 

place to sleep.” 

After the resort was completed Abul 

wanted to leave but the management did 

not want to let him go. “They offered me a 

position in the kitchen,” he says. He took 

it after some thought. Soon, he managed to 

change to F&B, which he found more to his 

taste. 

Abul has received extensive training over 

the years. He remembers a particular trainer 

from Canada that he was especially fond of. 

“He was very helpful,” says Abul. “He helped 

me overcome my shyness when dealing with 

people, especially the guests. I was afraid to 

talk to people, because my English wasn’t 

very good. But he said, ‘They will understand 

that you’re not from England. It’s not your first 

language. Don’t be too hard on yourself.’ And I 

took his advice.” 

Nowadays, he has many friends among 

guests, and Dhuni Kolhu gets quite a number 

of repeaters. “Some guests don’t even call it 

the Beach Bar; they call it Abul Bar,” he laughs. 

Abul is proud of the cocktails he serves, 

especially his mojitos and Long Island iced 

teas. “I’ve got some great comments from 

guests about them,” he says. “A lot of 

repeaters come to me and ask for their usual 

drinks. I know them so well, I know their 

tastes, what they want. I’m able to keep them 

happy. ” 

Abul has been the bar captain for almost 

five years and he is thrilled to be working at 

Dhuni Kolhu. “The management’s fantastic,” 

he says. “They’d even send personal letters 

thanking us at the end of the year. So that 

makes you feel really appreciated.” He is also 

delighted with the team at the resort. “I know 

everyone here,” he says. “I’ve been with them 

so long and they’re really amazing people. 

And we’re like brothers and sisters, like family 

here. We’re all the same here, regardless of 

our nationality or religion or race; here at 

Dhuni Kolhu we’re all part of the Coco Family.” 


71

REVIEW 

Island Vibes 

Dhaalu Raa 

WORDS MARIYAM ATHIZA ATHIF 

egendary Maldivian musician Ahmed’s 

Dhaalu Raa, released by Asasi Records in 

L 2012, can be described as a transcendental 

union of local rhythms and western rock music, 

especially that of the 60s and the 70s. 

Born on 3rd January 1966, Ahmed Nasheed, who 

simply goes by the name Ahmed, grew up in Male’ 

listening to western rock music. Ahmed is highly 

regarded for his contribution to the ground-breaking 

local album Dhoni by Zero Degree Atoll, which was 

released in 1990. Melding local sounds such as boduberu 

drumming and traditional raivaru style singing 

with western rock guitars and drums, Dhoni was the 

first of its kind in the country. Its release is regarded as 

a monumental achievement, 

and a turning point 

for the local music scene. 

Ahmed’s solo debut 

album Dhaalu Raa came 

22 years later, and it 

appears that his flair for 

fusing together local 

and western styles has 

survived the entire two 

decades. The opening 

track Bakari, which 

seems to be focussed on 

the topic of corruption, 

blends electric guitars 

and rock drums with 

local elements such as 

boduberu drumming and 

dhandi, in a style very 

similar to his earlier 

work. However, it’s on the second track titled Alifuthu 

that we are slowly introduced to his unique viewpoint; 

slightly relaxed, bouts of humour here and there, and 

most surprisingly his taste for simplicity. 

The third track Dhiyaanaage Huvafen, which 

supposedly is about the passing away of Princess 

Diana in 1997, gets even softer, verging on an almost 

otherworldly vibe, with light guitars, light drumming 

and Ahmed’s raivaru-like singing accompanied by soft 

backing vocals. The track titled Dhoni is probably the 

gentlest number on the album, evoking images of the 

local islands and the laidback lifestyles of the past. 

Ahmed depicts the same kind of imagery on his track 

Manjemen, which appears to be centred on the theme 

of women’s rights, bringing to mind images of girls 

walking with bandiyas, the traditional metal pots used 

for collecting and transporting water, and learning 

to read and write using voshufilaa, a traditional 

instrument used for teaching. 

Fihivalhu is probably the most urgent sounding 

number on the album. The slow moving track appears 

to encompass some rudiments of the grunge music 

scene of the 90s, especially on the guitars and 

Ahmed’s singing, and the song brings on an intense 

sense of approaching danger with its slithering quality. 

The same slithering quality is also evident on the track 

Randhodhi, although the hints of peril seem to be 

replaced with a certain airiness. 

It looks like Ahmed’s sense of humour takes centre 

stage on the track 

Magumathi; a funky, 

laidback jazzy number, 

on which he talks about 

simply walking on the 

street. It’s quite playful 

as well, with keyboards 

reminiscent of car horns 

along with other streetlike 

resonances. 

Sihuru and Rasge are 

the two most energetic 

tracks of Dhaalu Raa. 

Rasge, with its theme of 

corruption, is probably 

the most straightforward 

rock number on the 

album, while on Sihuru 

Ahmed punctuates the 

rock style structure of 

the song with boduberu style singing over traditional 

boduberu rhythms. 

Sheyvaa, the closing track of the album is a haunting 

number. The wise words written by Ahmed’s wife are 

delivered in almost a chant-like manner with faint 

hints of Indian classical music, making it ethereal and 

sublime. 

Dhaalu Raa is available for purchase at Amazon, 

iTunes, and other major online music stores. It’s also 

available from various outlets in Male’ including Island 

Music, Jazz Café, LeCute, SeaHouse Café, and SeaHouse 

Brasserie. The album also streams on Spotify and the 

tracks “Bakari” and “Rasge” can be freely downloaded 

via SoundCloud. 


2015 Collection 

For inquries: +960 7910858, sales@perspective.mv 


73

MAP OF MALDIVES 

Raa Atoll 

Coco Palm 

Dhuni Kolhu 

Baa Atoll 

Alif Alif 

Atoll 

Alif Dhaalu 

Atoll 

Haa Alif Atoll 

Haa Dhaalu Atoll 

Shaviyani Atoll 

Noonu Atoll 

Lhaviyani Atoll 

Kaafu Atoll 

Coco Bodu Hithi 

and Coco Privé 

Kuda Hithi 

Male’ 

Vaavu Atoll 

The 

Low 

Down 

All you need to know 

about the world’s 

lowest-lying nation 

Faafu Atoll 

Dhaalu Atoll 

Thaa Atoll 

N 

EQUATOR 

Gaafu Dhaal 

Atoll 

Seenu Atoll 

Meemu Atoll 

Laamu Atoll 

Gaafu Alif Atoll 

Nyaviyani 

Atoll 

Global 

Connections 

Immediate neighbours 

India and Sri Lanka (Northeast), Laccadive Islands 

(North), Chagos Archipegalo (South), Seychelles 

(Southeast) 

International airports 

Ibrahim Nasir Int’l. Airport* (Kaafu Atoll), 

Gan Int’l. Airport (Seenu Atoll), 

Hanimaadhoo Int’l. Airport (Haa Dhaalu Atoll), 

Villa Int’l. Airport (Alif Dhaalu Atoll) 

International relations 

UN and most of its specialized agencies, Commonwealth, 

OIC, the Non-Aligned Movement, and 

SAARC 

Credit cards 

American Express, Diners Club, Eurocard, JCB, 

Master Card, Visa 

Entry 

No prior visa arrangements required. A tourist 

visa of 30 days will be given to visitors with valid 

travel documents, upon arrival. 

Calling code 

+960 

Internet TLD 

.mv 


MALDIVES FACTS 

Male’- The capital city of Maldives 

Archipelago 

and islands 

The 

Nation 

Geographical coordinates 

Capital city 

3°15’N 73°00’E 

Malé (1.77 sqkm, 4°10’N 73°30’E) 

Geographical location 

Status 

Indian Ocean 

Republic 

Total area 

Independence 

90,000 sqkm 

26th July 1965 (from the United Kingdom) 

Area of land 

Demonym 

298 sqkm 

Maldivian 

Total no. of islands 

Religion 

1,190 islands 

Islam (Sunni) 

Archipelago 

Population 

Length: 823 km, Width: 130 km 

341,356 (2014 census) 

Total no. of administrative atolls 

Maldives standard time 

19 atolls, 189 inhabited islands 

GMT +5 

Largest atoll 

Languages 

Huvadhoo Atoll (6486 sqkm) 

Dhivehi is the national language. 

Smallest atoll 

English is widely spoken as a second language. 

Nyaviyani Atoll (4.81 sqkm) 

Literacy rate 

Highest natural elevation 

98.2% (10-45 yrs) 

7.8 ft (2.4 metres) Currency 

Average natural elevation 

Maldivian Rufiya (MVR/RF, USD 1 = RF 15.42) 

5.9 ft (1.8 metres) Working hours 

Temperature 

Banks: 8:30 am to 2 pm (Sun to Thu), 

31.1° C (Mean max), 25.5° C (Mean min) 

Government offices: 8:00 am to 4pm (Sun to Thu) 

Weekend: Friday and Saturday. 

Monsoons 

Southwest: May-Oct, Northeast: Nov-Apr 

Average daily sunshine 

8 hours 

Average annual rainfall 

1793.3 mm 

Humidity 

79% 

Major industries 

Tourism, Fishing 

National flower 

Pink rose 

National tree 

Coconut palm 


75



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