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Travel Australia<br />
the Umoona Opal Mine, are “lifers”. George<br />
followed his brother out from Greece to work<br />
in the mines when he was just a lad, “and<br />
somehow I just never left”, he said.<br />
Above ground, the dusty town looks forlorn,<br />
run down, but it’s another story underground,<br />
where the majority of the population live in<br />
subterranean homes hewn from the bedrock<br />
of an ancient sea.<br />
Enterprising ventilation systems ensure<br />
they’re cool, dry and free from the dust and the<br />
flies. There are churches, museums, shops, even<br />
a hotel, as well as tourist attractions such as<br />
Umoona Opal Mine and Museum<br />
(umoonaopalmine.com.au), which has guided<br />
tours, an underground lunch for the Ghan<br />
passengers and, of course, sells opals.<br />
Head chef Joe’s excellent catering skills<br />
were showcased again that evening at a<br />
farewell cocktail party in the desert at<br />
Manguri Siding, 42km from Coober Pedy.<br />
The final leg into Adelaide the next<br />
morning would complete this 2979km<br />
journey, but even though the air was rapidly<br />
cooling, we were in no hurry to leave the<br />
party. We stood, drinks in hand, swapping<br />
stories with newfound friends and watched<br />
as the sun disappeared behind the Ghan,<br />
the bright flames of the bonfire adding to<br />
the savage beauty of the outback setting.<br />
australia.com<br />
This page: Inside<br />
the mine tunnel at<br />
Coober Pedy.<br />
Eat<br />
SYDNEY<br />
Longrain’s menu is inspired by the<br />
communal eating philosophy of<br />
south-east Asia, and it’s spectacular.<br />
Whatever you order don’t miss the egg<br />
net, a fabulous concoction of bean<br />
sprouts, pork mince, peanuts and<br />
prawns, with a zingy dressing and<br />
cucumber relish. longrain.com<br />
Ester’s menu is a modern Australian<br />
take on much-loved classics including<br />
oysters, scallops, prawns, fish and<br />
steak. We ordered roasted oysters<br />
and raw kingfish with nori for starters,<br />
followed by steak tartare and Shark<br />
Bay snapper fillet cooked in a clay<br />
pot. Oh, and the “burnt pav”. It was all<br />
divine. Sigh. ester-restaurant.com.au<br />
ADELAIDE<br />
Chef Jock Zonfrillo showcases locally<br />
sourced native and wild ingredients<br />
on a menu that’s as innovative as it<br />
is interesting. At Restaurant<br />
Blackwood we ordered fire-pit<br />
yellow-fin tuna with couscous, karkalla<br />
and lilly pilly, because we liked the<br />
sound of the ingredients. We were<br />
wowed by the game pie, and a<br />
mushroom, goat’s curd and chestnut<br />
pasta. restaurantblackwood.com<br />
South Australian produce including<br />
veges and herbs from the nearby<br />
botanic gardens kitchen garden are<br />
on the menu at the award-winning<br />
Botanic Gardens Restaurant.<br />
botanicgardensrestaurant.com.au<br />
Sleep<br />
SYDNEY<br />
The Tank Stream hotel is within walking<br />
distance of the Opera House, the Royal<br />
Botanic Garden and the Rocks. Named<br />
after the Tank Stream, Sydney’s main<br />
water source in its early days of<br />
Getting there<br />
DARWIN<br />
Holiday Packages<br />
0800 747 222<br />
Holidays Travel Brokers<br />
0800 737 767<br />
airnewzealand.co.nz<br />
settlement as a penal colony, the hotel<br />
is a cleverly reimagined 60s office<br />
block in the heart of the city. stgiles.<br />
com<br />
DARWIN<br />
The Darwin Hilton has recently had a<br />
$10million refurbishment, with<br />
stunning results. The rooms are large,<br />
comfortable and stylishly contemporary.<br />
There’s a rooftop pool and fitness<br />
centre and the lobby bar and Mitchell’s<br />
Grill mean you don’t have to go out<br />
into the heat to dine. hilton.com<br />
ADELAIDE<br />
The Adelaide Hilton’s large,<br />
comfortable rooms and well-stocked<br />
bathrooms were a delight after three<br />
days in a confined space on the<br />
Ghan. The sunken bar proved a great<br />
place to catch up with new friends<br />
from the train. hilton.com<br />
Play<br />
SYDNEY<br />
John Pastor’s Tank Stream Tour of<br />
the historic CBD provides insightful<br />
commentary on the Tank Stream, the<br />
water source for the indigenous<br />
Gadigal tribe for aeons, and for the<br />
new penal settlement of Sydney. The<br />
tour follows the route of the stream<br />
now buried beneath the pavement.<br />
golocaltours.com<br />
DARWIN<br />
The Defence of Darwin Experience<br />
provides an interactive, multimedia<br />
experience of the World War II<br />
Japanese bombing of the<br />
Northern Territory capital.<br />
defenceofdarwin.nt.gov.au<br />
ADELAIDE<br />
If you have even half a day to spare,<br />
do a Barossa Valley wine tour. Book<br />
through your hotel.<br />
Air New Zealand operates<br />
four weekly non-stop<br />
flights from Auckland to<br />
Adelaide. Travel to New<br />
Zealand from Darwin<br />
via Sydney with alliance<br />
partner Virgin Australia.<br />
PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY, GETTY<br />
62 <strong>Kia</strong> <strong>Ora</strong>
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