Tokyo Weekender August 2017

FORGED BY FIRE
Words by Lisa Wallin, photos by Chris Mollison
Meet some of Japan's top
artisans and try your hand
at metalworking in one of
the most famous industrial
regions in the world
We arrived just in time to
catch a glimpse of the
sweat, blood, and tears
that go into making the
high quality products Japan
is known for worldwide. Just a two-hour
shinkansen trip from Tokyo, Niigata's Sanjo
and Tsubame cities – which are technically
two separate municipalities, but are often
branded as one – are famous for their metalworking,
with the region's artisans being
particularly known for their innovation and
dedication to their craft.
The region's industry can be traced back
to humble beginnings, when only a few lone
craftsmen made wakugi (a Japanese-style
nail) during the Edo period, and recently
there's been a move to connect the artisans
directly to their customers through factory
tours and events. The idea is that through
witnessing the labor-intensive process
behind crafted items, customers can gain an
understanding into their creation.
TRAVEL
SANJO AND TSUBAME:
SANJO: HEAVY METAL
AND BACH
We decided to try out craftsman
life for ourselves at Sanjo
Blacksmith Training Hall, a
facility that opened in 2005
with the aim of keeping traditional
techniques alive. It also
offers metalworking lessons to
laymen. With our hearts set on
making a letter opener from a
nail, we set to work. The fire
was blazing hot, the tools were
heavy, and our aim was off.
Our teacher, craftsman Takashi
Matsuhira, gave a helping hand
which was simultaneously
awe-inspiring and demoralizing.
He hammered everything
out in mere seconds, while it
took us several long minutes.
With his guidance, we made a
katana-shaped letter opener that
was as beautiful as it was sharp.
Next, we headed over to Suwada Blacksmith
Works, where their open factory featured
large windows and zoomable TV screens which
allowed us to get a closer look at what was going
on behind the glass. One of the craftsmen on site,
Hideo Kobayashi, is 85 and has been working in
the industry since he was 15. He listens to Bach
as he works. Though many like him are veterans,
there are increasing numbers of younger people
joining their ranks.
Starving after our not-so-hard work, we
headed to Chinese restaurant Taikanro for some
typical Sanjo soul food: curry ramen. The spicy,
thin soup was served with thick-cut fries lurking
among the noodles – an unexpected but not bad
combination. Afterwards, we stopped by Kitaimogawa
terraced rice fields to take in the stunning
14 | AUGUST 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER