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Tokyo Weekender August 2017

Craving an island getaway? It's closer than you think... Plus: A Day in the Life of a Rickshaw Driver, Summer Cruises in Tokyo, and Who is the Greatest Japanese Person Ever?

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[ PROMOTION ]<br />

HE LISTENS<br />

TO BACH<br />

AS HE<br />

WORKS<br />

MORE<br />

THINGS<br />

TO DO<br />

Steel yourselves – there's<br />

more to Sanjo and<br />

Tsubame than just metal<br />

1. MEET SOME MISO<br />

Perfect for foodies, Echigo Miso<br />

does tours of their miso-making<br />

process in an Edo period building.<br />

www.echigomiso.co.jp<br />

2. WHITTLE IN SOME<br />

WOODWORK<br />

Marunao is a company now in its<br />

third generation – they started with<br />

decorative adornments for shrines<br />

and temples, moved to tools for<br />

tradesmen, and they now focus<br />

on chopsticks. www.marunao.com<br />

view over the steps of green while sipping on<br />

delicious fresh mountain spring water – straight<br />

from the source.<br />

We settled in for the night at a delightfully<br />

secluded – and we mean secluded – ryokan<br />

perched next to the Sumon River, called Rankeiso.<br />

This roughly 100-year-old inn would fit<br />

seamlessly into a Ghibli movie. There's nothing<br />

like drifting off to sleep to the sweet sound of<br />

silence...<br />

(literally "back fat") ramen, our last stop for the<br />

day was Gyokusendo, famed worldwide for its<br />

hand-hammered copper kettles. While many<br />

machine-made products are at their prime when<br />

a customer receives them, copperware becomes<br />

more beautiful starting the moment the customer<br />

lays their hands on it. The lustre continues to<br />

develop as it's used over generations. In a rustic,<br />

100-year-old house-cum-workshop, we watched<br />

a handful of artisans rhythmically beat sheets of<br />

copper into shape. As one artisan melted some<br />

silver in a fire, we took a moment to appreciate the<br />

skill, time and dedication required for these beautiful<br />

products we choose to place in our homes.<br />

3. SHOP 'TIL YOU DROP<br />

You’ll find wares made by all the<br />

manufacturers we’ve mentioned<br />

and dozens more at the Tsubamesanjo<br />

Regional Promotional Center,<br />

a mecca for all things locally<br />

produced.<br />

www.tsjiba.or.jp/en/shopping<br />

4. DINE LIKE A NOBEL<br />

LAUREATE<br />

Only a few can nab a coveted seat<br />

at the annual Nobel Prize Banquet,<br />

but restaurant Messepia offers<br />

diners the chance to at least enjoy<br />

a meal with the same prestigious<br />

cutlery used in Stockholm. (Located<br />

inside the Tsubamesanjo Regional<br />

Promotional Center, see above.)<br />

TSUBAME: KNIVES AND COPPER<br />

Starting the day at Tojiro Co., Ltd, we learned<br />

that craftsmen here spend over 10 years perfecting<br />

their knife-making skills. Some blades<br />

are the sole responsibility of one lone artisan<br />

and it takes them 30 to 45 days to make one<br />

knife. The final touch is the name of the company<br />

hand engraved into the blade – just like<br />

sword makers did back in the day – leaving a<br />

distinctive style so that the knife can be traced<br />

back to the person who made it.<br />

After tucking into lunch at Koushuhanten,<br />

a popular local joint serving seabura

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