Tokyo Weekender August 2017
Craving an island getaway? It's closer than you think... Plus: A Day in the Life of a Rickshaw Driver, Summer Cruises in Tokyo, and Who is the Greatest Japanese Person Ever?
Craving an island getaway? It's closer than you think... Plus: A Day in the Life of a Rickshaw Driver, Summer Cruises in Tokyo, and Who is the Greatest Japanese Person Ever?
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[ PROMOTION ]<br />
HE LISTENS<br />
TO BACH<br />
AS HE<br />
WORKS<br />
MORE<br />
THINGS<br />
TO DO<br />
Steel yourselves – there's<br />
more to Sanjo and<br />
Tsubame than just metal<br />
1. MEET SOME MISO<br />
Perfect for foodies, Echigo Miso<br />
does tours of their miso-making<br />
process in an Edo period building.<br />
www.echigomiso.co.jp<br />
2. WHITTLE IN SOME<br />
WOODWORK<br />
Marunao is a company now in its<br />
third generation – they started with<br />
decorative adornments for shrines<br />
and temples, moved to tools for<br />
tradesmen, and they now focus<br />
on chopsticks. www.marunao.com<br />
view over the steps of green while sipping on<br />
delicious fresh mountain spring water – straight<br />
from the source.<br />
We settled in for the night at a delightfully<br />
secluded – and we mean secluded – ryokan<br />
perched next to the Sumon River, called Rankeiso.<br />
This roughly 100-year-old inn would fit<br />
seamlessly into a Ghibli movie. There's nothing<br />
like drifting off to sleep to the sweet sound of<br />
silence...<br />
(literally "back fat") ramen, our last stop for the<br />
day was Gyokusendo, famed worldwide for its<br />
hand-hammered copper kettles. While many<br />
machine-made products are at their prime when<br />
a customer receives them, copperware becomes<br />
more beautiful starting the moment the customer<br />
lays their hands on it. The lustre continues to<br />
develop as it's used over generations. In a rustic,<br />
100-year-old house-cum-workshop, we watched<br />
a handful of artisans rhythmically beat sheets of<br />
copper into shape. As one artisan melted some<br />
silver in a fire, we took a moment to appreciate the<br />
skill, time and dedication required for these beautiful<br />
products we choose to place in our homes.<br />
3. SHOP 'TIL YOU DROP<br />
You’ll find wares made by all the<br />
manufacturers we’ve mentioned<br />
and dozens more at the Tsubamesanjo<br />
Regional Promotional Center,<br />
a mecca for all things locally<br />
produced.<br />
www.tsjiba.or.jp/en/shopping<br />
4. DINE LIKE A NOBEL<br />
LAUREATE<br />
Only a few can nab a coveted seat<br />
at the annual Nobel Prize Banquet,<br />
but restaurant Messepia offers<br />
diners the chance to at least enjoy<br />
a meal with the same prestigious<br />
cutlery used in Stockholm. (Located<br />
inside the Tsubamesanjo Regional<br />
Promotional Center, see above.)<br />
TSUBAME: KNIVES AND COPPER<br />
Starting the day at Tojiro Co., Ltd, we learned<br />
that craftsmen here spend over 10 years perfecting<br />
their knife-making skills. Some blades<br />
are the sole responsibility of one lone artisan<br />
and it takes them 30 to 45 days to make one<br />
knife. The final touch is the name of the company<br />
hand engraved into the blade – just like<br />
sword makers did back in the day – leaving a<br />
distinctive style so that the knife can be traced<br />
back to the person who made it.<br />
After tucking into lunch at Koushuhanten,<br />
a popular local joint serving seabura