Devonshire Oct to Dec 17
Devon's countryside, wildlife, history and events
Devon's countryside, wildlife, history and events
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The FOOD Restaurant and DRINK Inspec<strong>to</strong>r<br />
Visits:<br />
The Five Bells Inn<br />
Clyst Hydon, East Devon<br />
Five Bells Inn<br />
at Clyst Hydon<br />
Fine<br />
Dining<br />
g ol d awa r d<br />
menu sampled<br />
Starters<br />
Grilled Capricorn Goats<br />
Cheese Salad, beetroot<br />
purée and horseradish<br />
Wye Valley Asparagus, poached<br />
duck egg and hollandaise<br />
Mains<br />
Pan-Roasted Brill, scallops,<br />
crab and mussels, fennel,<br />
saffron & basil<br />
Dartmoor Lamb Haunch,<br />
broad beans, mushroom,<br />
almond and mint<br />
Pudding<br />
Custard Tart, local<br />
strawberries, elderflower<br />
and strawberry sorbet<br />
Chocolate & Garden Mint, mint<br />
ripple ice cream, chocolate<br />
mousse, yoghurt & mint sorbet<br />
Drinks<br />
Monbazilliac, Chateau Vari<br />
Delicious homemade bread selection<br />
Grilled Capricorn Goats Cheese Salad, beetroot purée and horseradish<br />
Culinary magic<br />
We visited the Five Bells in August<br />
on one of those lovely summer<br />
evenings where you could enjoy a<br />
drink in the garden before retiring<br />
indoors <strong>to</strong> eat. It’s situated in<br />
sleepy Clyst Hydon and you are<br />
very grateful for the satnav here<br />
as it’s a little off the beaten track.<br />
The garden’s lovely, with fields<br />
and trees all around.<br />
Devon has many fine eateries<br />
that’s certain, the standard of food<br />
delivered <strong>to</strong> the table these days<br />
can be impressive, although there<br />
are still many pubs/inns aspiring<br />
<strong>to</strong> the ‘gastro’ dining label, which<br />
fail dismally, delivering overpriced<br />
and pretentious food that can<br />
disappoint on many levels. I think<br />
I’m right in saying that none of us<br />
mind paying the extra for proper<br />
high quality, but when the food<br />
is just mediocre, it can ruin your<br />
experience.<br />
A cursory glance at the menu can<br />
be quite revealing, sometimes you<br />
get the feeling that it’s contrived<br />
<strong>to</strong> tick the usual ‘gastro’ boxes, and<br />
there’s a level of lip service being<br />
paid <strong>to</strong> make things appear what<br />
they’re possibly not.<br />
Pan-Roasted Brill, scallops, crab and mussels, fennel, saffron & basil<br />
Dartmoor Lamb Haunch, broad<br />
beans, mushroom, almond and mint<br />
Happily, the only conclusion<br />
<strong>to</strong> be drawn after dining at the<br />
Five Bells was that a true master<br />
resides in the kitchen. Not only did<br />
each course taste utterly fantastic,<br />
but the visual presentation was<br />
approaching what you could<br />
consider <strong>to</strong> be ‘art’ on a plate! One<br />
of the very best meals we’ve ever<br />
had in Devon - utterly superb - I<br />
have no reservations in awarding a<br />
<strong>Devonshire</strong> magazine Fine-Dining<br />
Gold award <strong>to</strong> the Five Bells Inn.<br />
The Five Bells Inn changed<br />
hands just under a year ago with<br />
Gary and Graciela now being<br />
the owners. Chef Ian Webber,<br />
(formerly Head Chef of the two<br />
Michelin starred Gidleigh Park<br />
for 6 years) still resides and his<br />
flair has helped the pub earn (and<br />
retain for the last 3 years) a rare<br />
Michelin Bib Gourmand.<br />
So, if you fancy a peaceful drive<br />
out <strong>to</strong> an old thatched inn set<br />
amongst lovely <strong>Devonshire</strong><br />
countryside, you can enjoy true<br />
gourmet food at the Five Bells Inn<br />
at Clyst Hydon, East Devon.<br />
Edi<strong>to</strong>r<br />
44<br />
E<strong>to</strong>n Mess, elderflower and<br />
strawberry sorbet<br />
Wye Valley Asparagus, poached duck egg and hollandaise<br />
Chocolate & Garden Mint, mint ripple ice cream,<br />
chocolate mousse, yoghurt & mint sorbet<br />
Countryside, His<strong>to</strong>ry, Walks, the Arts, Events & all things Devon at: DEVONSHIRE magazine.co.uk