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Devonshire Oct to Dec 17

Devon's countryside, wildlife, history and events

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The FOOD Restaurant and DRINK Inspec<strong>to</strong>r<br />

Visits:<br />

The Five Bells Inn<br />

Clyst Hydon, East Devon<br />

Five Bells Inn<br />

at Clyst Hydon<br />

Fine<br />

Dining<br />

g ol d awa r d<br />

menu sampled<br />

Starters<br />

Grilled Capricorn Goats<br />

Cheese Salad, beetroot<br />

purée and horseradish<br />

Wye Valley Asparagus, poached<br />

duck egg and hollandaise<br />

Mains<br />

Pan-Roasted Brill, scallops,<br />

crab and mussels, fennel,<br />

saffron & basil<br />

Dartmoor Lamb Haunch,<br />

broad beans, mushroom,<br />

almond and mint<br />

Pudding<br />

Custard Tart, local<br />

strawberries, elderflower<br />

and strawberry sorbet<br />

Chocolate & Garden Mint, mint<br />

ripple ice cream, chocolate<br />

mousse, yoghurt & mint sorbet<br />

Drinks<br />

Monbazilliac, Chateau Vari<br />

Delicious homemade bread selection<br />

Grilled Capricorn Goats Cheese Salad, beetroot purée and horseradish<br />

Culinary magic<br />

We visited the Five Bells in August<br />

on one of those lovely summer<br />

evenings where you could enjoy a<br />

drink in the garden before retiring<br />

indoors <strong>to</strong> eat. It’s situated in<br />

sleepy Clyst Hydon and you are<br />

very grateful for the satnav here<br />

as it’s a little off the beaten track.<br />

The garden’s lovely, with fields<br />

and trees all around.<br />

Devon has many fine eateries<br />

that’s certain, the standard of food<br />

delivered <strong>to</strong> the table these days<br />

can be impressive, although there<br />

are still many pubs/inns aspiring<br />

<strong>to</strong> the ‘gastro’ dining label, which<br />

fail dismally, delivering overpriced<br />

and pretentious food that can<br />

disappoint on many levels. I think<br />

I’m right in saying that none of us<br />

mind paying the extra for proper<br />

high quality, but when the food<br />

is just mediocre, it can ruin your<br />

experience.<br />

A cursory glance at the menu can<br />

be quite revealing, sometimes you<br />

get the feeling that it’s contrived<br />

<strong>to</strong> tick the usual ‘gastro’ boxes, and<br />

there’s a level of lip service being<br />

paid <strong>to</strong> make things appear what<br />

they’re possibly not.<br />

Pan-Roasted Brill, scallops, crab and mussels, fennel, saffron & basil<br />

Dartmoor Lamb Haunch, broad<br />

beans, mushroom, almond and mint<br />

Happily, the only conclusion<br />

<strong>to</strong> be drawn after dining at the<br />

Five Bells was that a true master<br />

resides in the kitchen. Not only did<br />

each course taste utterly fantastic,<br />

but the visual presentation was<br />

approaching what you could<br />

consider <strong>to</strong> be ‘art’ on a plate! One<br />

of the very best meals we’ve ever<br />

had in Devon - utterly superb - I<br />

have no reservations in awarding a<br />

<strong>Devonshire</strong> magazine Fine-Dining<br />

Gold award <strong>to</strong> the Five Bells Inn.<br />

The Five Bells Inn changed<br />

hands just under a year ago with<br />

Gary and Graciela now being<br />

the owners. Chef Ian Webber,<br />

(formerly Head Chef of the two<br />

Michelin starred Gidleigh Park<br />

for 6 years) still resides and his<br />

flair has helped the pub earn (and<br />

retain for the last 3 years) a rare<br />

Michelin Bib Gourmand.<br />

So, if you fancy a peaceful drive<br />

out <strong>to</strong> an old thatched inn set<br />

amongst lovely <strong>Devonshire</strong><br />

countryside, you can enjoy true<br />

gourmet food at the Five Bells Inn<br />

at Clyst Hydon, East Devon.<br />

Edi<strong>to</strong>r<br />

44<br />

E<strong>to</strong>n Mess, elderflower and<br />

strawberry sorbet<br />

Wye Valley Asparagus, poached duck egg and hollandaise<br />

Chocolate & Garden Mint, mint ripple ice cream,<br />

chocolate mousse, yoghurt & mint sorbet<br />

Countryside, His<strong>to</strong>ry, Walks, the Arts, Events & all things Devon at: DEVONSHIRE magazine.co.uk

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