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Smorgasboarder_12_July-2012

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Ofer carving at Cokes<br />

morning and afternoon sessions, providing the strong current running<br />

briefly each day wasn’t making it impossible to sit on the take off. These<br />

waves were shared with local kids, surf camp residents and visiting surf<br />

safari boats.<br />

Two weeks in, a powerful southerly swell made its way up from South<br />

Africa and turned it on. Pumping through 6-8 foot sets with fast, powerful<br />

waves, solid stand up barrels and near vertical take-offs, the crowds were<br />

quickly reduced. We quickly discovered this also set a test of judgement.<br />

Time it well, and we were out the back in minutes and looking back onto a<br />

palm tree spotted tropical island. Time it badly and our paddle out quickly<br />

trebled in length, as we were washed down the reef on the inside, coping<br />

set after set on the head.<br />

Given the surf conditions we were experiencing and budget we were<br />

living on, we quickly concluded the Maldives is set to experience a<br />

surge in independent surfers seeking longer periods of stay. A number of<br />

considerations will influence those travelling there though. The first is that<br />

alcohol is strictly not permitted on any non-resort islands due to Islamic<br />

law. This limits the appeal to the surfing contingent demanding post-surf<br />

partying on their trip. Added to this is the modesty of dress Islamic law<br />

encourages. So nude or topless sun baking is prohibited everywhere in<br />

the Maldives. Likewise, homosexuality is against the law and if you’re<br />

convicted, you may face lengthy prison sentences, fines, deportation or - if<br />

you’re a born-again same-sex naturist couple - all three. In addition, few<br />

local residents eat in the local restaurants on the islands. This makes food<br />

options limited and repetitive.<br />

Admittedly it was only having three options for dinner every night - fried<br />

rice, fried noodles, or the same curry and rice - that encouraged my<br />

departure.<br />

So after two months, it was time for myself and Chris to leave the<br />

Maldives in search of new food and a cold beer. The Maldives had<br />

delivered far more than we ever expected – amazing surf that lived up to<br />

its reputation, easily affordable travel options, and a new adventure. It’s<br />

likely to experience changes over the next few years as word filters out,<br />

but so many local islands remain unspoilt by mainstream tourism that<br />

there are likely to be many more to explore for quality waves.<br />

Some things just<br />

shouldn’t get wet.<br />

WASP Bags are completely water<br />

and sand proof. Noticed how if<br />

you get the tiniest bit of sand<br />

or water in your phone, iPod<br />

or camera they are never quite<br />

the same again? Thanks to their<br />

unique seal, WASP Bags ensure<br />

that the things that should stay<br />

dry, stay dry.<br />

Buy online or ask your friendly surf shop...<br />

waspbags.com.au<br />

PLEASE NOTE: You can’t just rock up the Maldives with no plan, as their tourist<br />

industry is well regulated. Accommodation that Jules and friends stayed in were<br />

all official resorts and homestays, and they had appropriate permissions to visit the<br />

places they did. In certain areas in the Maldives, interaction between locals and<br />

tourists is frowned upon, so make sure you do your homework, or simply talk to one<br />

of the travel companies servicing the area to make sure you stay out of trouble.<br />

jul/aug 20<strong>12</strong><br />

87

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