The Breed Magazine - Volume 2

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THE MAKEUP ARTIST INDUSTRY PAGES by RACHEL TOLEDO A B C
F ashion Week is just around the corner. Every September a horde of creatives bounces from New York to London to Milan to Paris to see what creations and trends designers are showcasing, to work on teams for hair or makeup, photograph the shows or just photograph the fashion giraffes who attend. Working backstage as a photographer, hairstylist or makeup artist is like a rite of passage in many professional careers. But how does a newbie to the industry get there, and what is some of the essential etiquette an artist or backstage photographer may need once there? As an artist who has both assisted and keyed fashion shows in New York, London and Paris, here are some of my top insider tips. Makeup Artists or Hairstylists Look at past Fashion Week shows to see who the key artists and stylists were (key meaning the makeup artist or hair person who designed the look and was in charge). Find their Instagram and who their agent is, then email them—BUT keep your message short and to the point. If you don’t have a website, you better have a clean and kickass Instagram. Agencies and artists need to see a visual representation of your work. It’s best to hit them up four to six weeks before the shows. Leave all of your contact details and do not hound them. If they like your work they’ll get in touch. If you are super-new, let them know. Say you’re willing to clean brushes and carry their kits or fetch coffee. Make yourself seem indispensable. I learned more by assisting than I did in makeup school. Another option is to see which brands are sponsoring the shows, such as TRESemme or Maybelline. You can try to contact them directly, as they often will also be hiring. If you get booked for a show, realize that many call times are super-early and that you better be on time. A key artist will demo the look right from the beginning of the show’s call time. Models need to do hair, makeup and nails, plus fittings and a run-through, in just a few short hours, so every minute is precious. Key artists are busy and won’t appreciate having to go through everything again for someone who’s late. Pay attention during the demo. Video it or take notes if you have to. Be aware of not only the products they use but also what types of brushes they use. If you are really struggling to do something, it’s better to get help from another artist than to waste time. If waiting for a model backstage, make yourself useful. Clean the area you’re working in or offer to grab water or drinks. These little things will be noticed. Social Media Every key artist works differently, so ask before taking any photos. Also, don’t post anything until after the show’s over—don’t spoil the show! Make sure you use appropriate tags. If you assisted, say that you did the makeup, but also mention who you assisted and tag that key artist. Tag the designer too. Many backstage areas will list tags and hashtags to use. If you’re doing an InstaStory or Snapchat, make sure it’s the appropriate time to do it. I once had a bunch of assistants Snapchatting when the models were lining up just a few minutes before showtime. This is the crunch time for fixing last looks, not filtering dog ears on yourself! Photographers Glam teams know you need your shot, but if you see that they are really stressed out working, try not to butt your way in. Give the artists space or just ask, “Hey, can I grab a shot?” Artists are always happy to get their work photographed, but it’s better to warn them. Also, be respectful of the girls changing backstage and where your lens is focusing. Other tips • Bring a snack and water. Not all shows have food, and if you’re working back-to-back shows on your feet, it’s important to keep hydrated. • Make sure makeup brushes and hairbrushes are clean. Bring something to disinfect and clean them between models. • And if you are a makeup artist, you MUST have foundations and powders for ALL skin tones, from the palest alabaster to the darkest shade. If you don’t have a variety of foundations to blend around, you won’t be prepared. • Wear comfy shoes—you’re working, not hitting the catwalk. You’ll be on your feet and running around. This Month’s Product Hot List (A) Charlotte Tilbury Filmstar Bronze & Glow A gorgeous homage to the golden age of Hollywood, it’s almost too pretty to use! The powders themselves contour and highlight with a beautiful subtlety. They leave the face sculpted and glowing without looking dirty or overly frosted. ($68, charlottetilbury.com) (B) Sephora Collection PROfessional Makeup Case Compact yet very roomy. Super-lightweight with removable compartments. I love this bag, as it holds a lot more than you would expect and is very durable. ($100, sephora.com) (C) Real Techniques PowderBleu Collection Inspired by the luxurious coats of blue squirrels, these brushes (don’t worry, they’re cruelty-free and synthetic) feel incredibly luxurious. Real Techniques brushes are awesome for your makeup kit, blend beautifully and won’t bust your piggy bank. Created by YouTube makeup artist sensations Sam & Nic, aka Pixiwoo, the brushes even have video tutorials so you can get maximum use out of the tools. (realtechniques.com) Follow me for more insider looks into the world of hair and makeup on Instagram @racheltoledomua.
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Vol. II SEPTEMBER 2017
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Editor’s Letter We live in uncert
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On Tiffany ( left ): Silk Dress wit
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Knit Jumper CARLO VOLPI Pants with
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Cord-Detail Jumper and Tiered Skirt
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On Devin( left ): Leather and Cowha
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Models LYENA @ NEXT MODELS MIAMI KE
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Headpiece WXYZ JEWELRY Glasses ISLY
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Jacket QUEENIE CAO Earrings ISLYNYC
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Jacket JAMES R. PALMISANO Pants MAT
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Jumpsuit QUEENIE CAO Bodysuit STYLI
Page 57 and 58: WILD ONE Photography LEWIS & MARSHA
Page 61 and 62: On Micah ( left ): Jacket ALL SAINT
Page 64 and 65: Belt DIESEL
Page 66 and 67: Choker. CHARMING CHARLIE Tassel Ear
Page 69 and 70: Earrings OSCAR DE LA RENTA “IMPAT
Page 71 and 72: Nucleated Pearl Necklaces and Earri
Page 74 and 75: Coat NARCISS BY ALISE TRAUTMANE Sho
Page 76 and 77: Sweater GOOD OMEN NYC Wide Pants NO
Page 79 and 80: WILD IS THE WIND Photography BABETH
Page 81: Military Jacket ZARA T-shirt COS Je
Page 84 and 85: Sequin Top MANGO Denim Jacket LEVI
Page 87 and 88: Dress COS Necklace SAINT LAURENT Sh
Page 89 and 90: MALIBU GIRL Photography STANLEY CHA
Page 91 and 92: Dress MANGO Belt GUCCI Fur Stole BA
Page 93: Velvet Bomber H&M Velvet Dress H&M
Page 96 and 97: Tank POLO RALPH LAUREN Jeans H&M Br
Page 98 and 99: Briefs VERSACE Boots TIMBERLAND
Page 100 and 101: Jumpsuit RAG & BONE
Page 102: HOMMES Photography GABRIEL MONTAGNA
Page 105 and 106: Suit VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
Page 107: Suit GIAFRANCO FERRE Models JOAO FE
Page 113: ALTAROMA 2017 Photography LUCA PALM
Page 122 and 123: Dress ATSUKO KUDO “OBSESSION” P
Page 124 and 125: Top ATSUKO KUDO BLACK LATEX “PARI
Page 126: Bra Top ATSUKO KUDO PINK “PARIS C
Page 129 and 130: Suit ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Latex Collar
Page 131: Outerwear ATSUKO KUDO OLIVE “REST
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The Breed Magazine - Volume 2

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