Tokyo Weekender - November 2017

Find Out with 

Our End-of- 

Year Special: 

42 Christmas Gift Shopping 

Ideas & 10 Bonenkai Spots 

PLUS: Eating Disorders on the Rise, the Avant-Garde World of Butoh, Japan Prodigies, and Tohoku Travel Guide

16 

26 34 

36 

radar 

THIS MONTH’S HEAD TURNERS 

8 AREA GUIDE: SHAKUJII 

Craving peace and quiet? Explore the charms 

of Shakujii Koen. 

10 BEAUTY: NAIL ART 

Top trends for Autumn/Winter 17, and 

where to try them in Tokyo. 

12 TRENDS: THE NIIGATA CRAFT CRAZE 

NIIGATA in 10 shows off the prefecture's fine 

craftsmanship through rich experiences. 

in-depth 

COFFEE-BREAK READS 

15 SHOP TILL YOU DROP AT GINZA SIX 

Our recommended Japanese and international 

brands and items for a luxe Xmas gift. 

20 WITH LOVE FROM JAPAN 

Looking for something more quintessentially 

Japanese for a unique gift? We've got 

you covered. 

24 PERFECTLY CRAFTED PRESENTS 

For original, handcrafted holiday gifts from 

Japan, Tabisuru Store is your best bet. 

26 10 TOP TOKYO BONENKAI SPOTS 

Rounding off our end-of-year special, here 

are a few fine places to say cheers to 2017. 

32 MEET JAPAN'S TEEN PRODIGIES 

Innovators, record breakers, music makers. 

34 A DIALOGUE WITH GRAVITY 

Butoh choreographer Ushio Amagatsu on 

the avant-garde dance genre. 

36 STARVING FOR CONFORMITY 

Eating disorders are on the rise in Japan. 

guide 

CULTURE ROUNDUP 

40 ART & MUSIC 

Documenting Japanese immigrant life as well 

as the landscapes of rural Brazil, Van Gogh's 

Japan connection, and three new albums for 

autumn listening. 

40 AGENDA 

The Tokyo Motor Show, a world-famous 

opera, a festival of flowers, and a Japanese 

adaptation of the Pulitzer Prize-nominated 

play Marjorie Prime. 

44 TRAVEL: TOP THINGS TO DO, SEE 

AND EAT IN TOHOKU 

Our guide to exploring and dining (including 

halal options) across the region. 

50 SOCIETY 

Tokyo's longest-running social column. 

NOVEMBER 2017

NOVEMBER 2017 

Publisher 

President 

Executive Producer 

Editor in Chief 

Senior Editors 

Creative Director 

Designer 

Features Writer 

Contributors 

Sales Director 

Sales Executives 

Marketing Director 

Media Consultant 

Media Producers 

ENGAWA Co., Ltd. 

Takanobu Ushiyama 

Naoya Takahashi 

Annemarie Luck 

Alec Jordan 

Lisa Wallin 

Liam Ramshaw 

Rose Vittayaset 

Matthew Hernon 

Vivian Morelli 

Bill Hersey 

Bunny Bissoux 

Naomi Schanen 

Takaaki Murai 

Hirofumi Ohuchi 

Kahori Terakawa 

Azusa Yoshida 

Jessica Yumi Idomoto 

Mary Rudow 

Claudia Sun 

Yuda Chou 

EST. Corky Alexander, 1970 

SSU Bld. 1F 4-12-8 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku 

Tokyo, Japan 151-0051 

(03) 6432-9948 / (03) 6438-9432 (fax) 

info@engawa.global 

To subscribe to Tokyo Weekender, please visit 

www.tokyoweekender.com/subscribe 

For ad sales inquiries, please call 

(03) 6432-9948 or email: 

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広告に関するお問い合わせ先 

電話 :(03) 6432-9948 

メール:info@engawa.global 

Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors 

are not necessarily those of the publisher 

CORRECTION: An article in our September 2017 issue, 

“Life in Transit,” raised public concerns, and we realized 

that some of the featured photos may not have 

received proper publishing permission. We removed 

the article from our website, withdrew as many of the 

distributed print magazines as possible, and apologize 

to those who may have been impacted by the article. 

Published by ENGAWA Co., Ltd. 

4 | NOVEMBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER

@bapawn: Annemarie, have you started your Christmas 

shopping yet? 

@mizrama: After editing this month’s massive shopping 

special [page 16], I feel like I have! I think the item I 

want most from our roundup is the toilet featuring 

Hokusai’s wave painting. How about you? 

@bapawn: I’m torn – I think it’s a toss up between 

that Belstaff bag they’ve got at GINZA SIX and the deer 

leather speakers. Then again, instead of a present, I 

wouldn’t mind taking a trip to some of the places we’re 

covering in our travel section. 

@mizrama: Me too. I haven’t spent much time in 

Tohoku, but what with our six-page guide to the area 

[page 44] and our Akita supplement magazine, it’s 

quickly moving to the top of my must-visit list. You, 

however, are something of an Akita expert... 

@bapawn: It’s a long haul from Tokyo, but between 

the food, the traditions, and the sheer natural variety 

of the place, there’s plenty to keep you busy in Akita 

for a while. 

@mizrama: For those who can’t physically get away 

this month, there’s always the butoh dance performance 

[page 34] at the New National Theatre, Tokyo, which will 

likely make you feel like you’re on another planet. 

@bapawn: The director of Sankaijuku butoh dance 

group really seems to have a good perspective on things. 

He’s someone I wouldn't mind having a couple of beers 

with. 

@mizrama: We could always invite him to join 

Weekender for a bonenkai… 

NEWSFLASH 

For the first time, Tokyo Weekender magazine will be producing a combined December/January issue. Look out for the 

bumper 60-pager, which features “40 Ways to Experience the Best of Japan,” on shelf from December 8, 2017. 

VISIT OUR WEBSITE 

WWW.TOKYOWEEKENDER.COM 

JOIN US ON FACEBOOK 

FACEBOOK.COM/TOKYO.WEEKENDER 

FOLLOW US ON TWITTER 

@TOKYO_WEEKENDER 

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TOKYOWEEKENDER 

TOKYO WEEKENDER | NOVEMBER 2017 | 5


WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR THIS MONTH... 

We're escaping to the green, open spaces of Shakujii Koen, experimenting with the latest 

nail art trends, and going camping in Niigata. 

TOKYO WEEKENDER | | NOVEMBER 2017 | 7

AREA GUIDE 

GET BACK 

TO NATURE 

IN SHAKUJII 

Words by Paul McInnes. Photographs by Stephan Jarvis 

Craving peace and quiet? Explore the charms 

of Shakujii Koen 

PARK OFF 

Tokyoites, to some, could be viewed as 

a bit aloof and snobbish. A Japanese pal 

once said that central dwellers (within 

the Yamanote Line) look down their 

collective nose at Nerima Ward, basically 

dismissing it as Saitama Prefecture. Now, 

not to ruffle too many Aoyama feathers, 

but this is plainly not true. Granted, 

Saitama isn’t the perfect place to live. 

Known for being a tad dull and parochial, 

it earned the nickname “Dasaitama” 

or “Uncool Saitama.” Nerima’s Shakujii 

Koen, however, isn’t in Saitama; it is 

in Tokyo, and is simply stunning. It’s 

quite a claim but only five minutes (by 

express train) from the concrete jungle 

of Ikebukuro on the Seibu Ikebukuro, 

Yurakucho and Fukutoshin lines, the 

park is a superbly convenient and sophisticated 

area for people wanting a bit 

of deserved peace and quiet surrounded 

by nature. 

Kichijoji, in recent polls, gets all the 

acclaim for being stylish and elegant 

with its Inokashira Park and fashionable 

boutiques and eateries. However, if 

you’re looking for a park, and we mean 

a real park, then Shakujii Koen with 

its glorious Shakujii Lake and adjacent 

Sampo-ji Lake is miles better. It’s true 

that besides the ponds and park areas 

there’s not that much to do in Shakujii 

Koen, but the water and wildlife are second 

to none in the Tokyo area. Popular 

with fishermen, toy boat clubs, wildlife 


IT'S PERFECT 

FOR FISHING, 

PICNICKING 

OR PEDALING 

AWAY ON 

THE SWAN 

PEDALOS 

fanatics, couples and kids, the 

park area, roughly a five-minute 

walk from the station, is breathtaking. 

It’s a perfect spot for fishing, 

picnicking or pedaling away on the 

swan pedalos which are available 

beside the pond areas. 

SHRINES, MUSEUMS AND 

MANSIONS 

There are some very quaint Shinto 

shrines dotted around the park 

as well as a huge amphitheater, 

which hosts concerts and performances, 

and is an ideal spot for 

relaxing or reading a book. It’s 

a beautiful spot overlooking the 

pond and a lovely getaway from the 

hustle and bustle of central Tokyo 

life. It’s an area of culture too, with 

nearby Makino Memorial Garden 

and Museum, and Nerima Shakujiikoen 

Furusato Museum which 

are well worth a visit if you find 

yourself in the area. One of the most remarkable 

aspects of the area are the houses and buildings 

that surround both lakes. “Mansion” simply 

means “family apartment” in Japanese, but these 

are mansions in terms of the English definition of 

the word. “Opulent” doesn’t really do them justice. 

If you love peeking at other people’s abodes, then 

Shakujii Koen is the perfect spot. 

EATS AND TREATS 

At the furthest end of the pond nearest the station 

you will find the legendary bakery Peater Pan. 

It’s a celebrated bakery around the Kanto area 

and holds lots of culinary treasures for locals and 

visitors alike. Near the station you’ll come across 

Mujirushi Ryohin and Seijo Ishii stores which 

will satisfy your simple yet 

stylish sartorial needs, and 

also offer an abundance of 

globally imported foods 

and drinks. 

It may not 

be Daikanyama or Nakameguro 

with their pennyfarthing-riding, 

tattooed 

hipsters, but Shakujii Koen 

is an ideal getaway for a few 

hours or even a wee day 

trip. Beautiful, surrounded 

by nature and vibrancy, it’s 

an excellent location for a 

relaxing stroll on a sunny 

autumnal day. Forget the supercilious 

central Tokyoites, 

and circumvent Kichijoji 

and its faux bohemianism, 

and instead explore a part 

of Tokyo where real people 

indulge in real hobbies in a 

real natural environment. 


10 | NOVEMBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER 

[ PROMOTION ] 

BEAUTY

TOP TRENDS FOR 

AUTUMN/WINTER 2017, 

AND WHERE TO TRY 

THEM IN TOKYO 

Words by Annemarie Luck. Illustration by Bunny Bissoux 

VINTAGE 

As seen at Novis and Jenny Packham 

Novis’ manicurist Alicia Torello wittily described this look as “Your 

boyfriend’s grandma’s vintage couch.” Her take on it was vintage floral, 

but using black and strong primary colors as opposed to pastels. 

It’s kind of like color blocking just with a gentle curved line separating 

the hues. Jenny Packham, on the other hand, stuck to gun-metal 

grey, dove grey and nude for a more “faded” retro effect. 

WHERE TO TRY IT: The award-winning nail artists at Joli Nails can 

do pretty much anything you ask for (we once watched them paint 

a perfect replica of someone’s cat onto a nail). So we have to believe 

they won’t bat an eyelash if you go in asking for “my boyfriend’s 

grandma’s vintage couch.” www.joliarts-salon.com 

MOODY HUES 

As seen at Marc Jacobs and Plein 

Winter generally makes us want to curl up and cover up, and the 

colors we gravitate towards during this season reflect the mood. Go 

for black, gold and maroon as your base colors and then choose just 

a hint of a doodle or sparkle on top of that in white or silver (we don’t 

want to be all doom and gloom). 

WHERE TO TRY IT: Inspired by Parisian aesthetics, Sugar Nails 

opened in Hiroo last year and offers an extensive catalogue for all 

tastes. A quick scroll through their Instagram feed (www.instagram. 

com/sugarnailstokyo) will give you a good idea of their relatively 

understated embellishments. sugarnails.tokyo 

NEGATIVE SPACE 

As seen at Prabal Gurun and Tracy Reese 

Half-moons, diagonal lines, or just the pointer finger painted in red 

are all options for creating a modern-art look that’s part color and 

part natural nail. Ideal for those who want to try something different 

but still maintain subtlety. Winter accent colors include grey, red, 

brown, black and navy. 

WHERE TO TRY IT: Elana Jade in Azabu-Juban offers a variety of 

manicure options, but they never go overboard on the patterns and 

colors, achieving the perfect balance between artsy and elegant. 

www.elanajade.com 

BOLD EMBELLISHMENTS 

As seen at Libertine and The Blonds 

Adorning fingertips with preposterous 3D art is nothing new for 

Tokyo, but now you’ve got the go ahead from worldwide designers to 

let loose on embellishments. Chains, threads, beads, feathers, even 

tassels hanging off the end of your nails. 

WHERE TO TRY IT: Tru Nails in Shibuya is known for offering 

unique and OMG OTT nail art. What can we say, you only live once. 

trunail.jp/en/n-shibuya 


TRENDS 

THE NIIGATA 

CRAFT CRAZE 

Words by Lisa Wallin. Photographs by Robert Kirsch 

Lately there’s been a strong revival of traditional Japanese 

arts and crafts. NIIGATA in 10 is a novel form of promoting 

the prefecture's long history of fine craftsmanship, by 

allowing visitors to see and use the products in context 

Each of these themes is designed to represent 

a different aspect of our daily lives and 

fulfills that purpose. Weekender recently 

went camping in Niigata to try out one of the 

experiences ourselves… 

While some may believe you 

don’t know what you’ve 

got until it’s gone, Niigata 

Prefecture knows how great 

its locally made products are, 

and wants to share this with the world. They 

believe in the concept of “you don’t know 

how good something is until you’ve tried it 

out.” For this purpose, NIIGATA in 10 was 

created. It introduces Niigata-made products 

in a natural setting for people to try them out 

and experience their benefits for themselves. 

The project consists of 10 themes: working, 

collecting, crafting, cooking, cutting, tasting, 

playing, wearing, designing, and healing. 

CAMP IN NIIGATA 

To help showcase the prefecture’s pride and 

joy, NIIGATA in 10 hosts a number of events 

to familiarize people with Niigata-made 

items, and one of these was Camp in Niigata. 

Here, bloggers and social media influencers 

tried out some of Niigata Prefecture’s products 

in a natural setting while camping in the 

heart of the prefecture itself. Surrounded by 

luscious green hills and pretty much nothing 

else, we got our first chance to try out a tenugui-inspired 

all-purpose cloth after working 

up a sweat putting up our tents. 

FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD 

Without much time to admire the lush hills 

and forests around us, we started cooking 

lunch, using locally made knives and 

paulownia-wood cutting boards to slice 

chicken, cut pork ribs, and chop vegetables 

with ease. Since we were camping, it was 

only fitting that we had a great big barbeque. 

We picked up marinated meat slab after meat 

slab with some narrow-tipped tongs that 


[ PROMOTION ] 

Finally, it was time to savor 

one of Niigata’s most famous 

local specialties: sake. Common 

sense tells us that sake made 

by competing breweries will 

taste different, but that night 

we learned that the same sake 

served in cups of varying materials 

could change the taste 

of the product remarkably. A 

sake cup made with aluminum 

made our sake taste sweet and 

strong, while another, slightly 

larger cup, made of kawara 

(the same material as roof 

tiles) made it seem smooth 

and mellow. 

ROLLING HILLS AND 

NIGHT-TIME THRILLS 

Well-fed and well-boozed, 

we moved over to the newly 

started campfire to enjoy a chat 

as the sky turned black around 

us. It was only the call of a long 

hot soak in a nearby super 

sento a short drive away that 

would rouse us from our seats. 

The sento had several baths 

and saunas inside, and another 

three or four outside. The 

contrast of the crisp autumn 

evening air and the hot bath 

was refreshing as we soothed 

our aches and pains away. By 

the time we got back, most of 

us were ready for bed, and we 

fell into a deep slumber until 

the next morning. 

NOON NIBBLES 

We woke to drizzling rain, but 

we didn’t let that dampen our 

spirits (only our clothes), because 

it was time to eat again: 

this time in the form of toasted 

NIIGATA IN 10 

GALLERY VOL. 2 

The next NIIGATA in 10 event will be 

in Tokyo, where you will be able to try 

out many of the products we used in 

the Camp in Niigata event. It’s a great 

opportunity to get the feel of these 

high quality products and experience 

how different they are to use. There 

will also be a chance to compare the 

taste of sake served in different cups 

and a number of other fun experiences, 

like trying on kimono. 

Where: Omotesando Niigata-kan 

N’ESPACE, 4-11-7 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku 

When: Nov 30-Dec 3, 10:30am-7:30pm 

How much: Free 

sandwiches and fresh coffee. The tongs came 

in handy again here as we deftly moved our 

slices of bread from the hot sandwich makers 

to our plates. Stainless steel tumblers kept our 

tea ice cold and refreshingly delicious. Far 

from our trip being done, once we packed up 

our tents and things, we ate again – this time 

to try the local specialty, seabura ramen (pork 

back fat ramen). Say what you will about Niigata, 

but they do make sure you’re well fed. 

stood up without support when placed down 

on the table. While it may seem like a minor 

detail, not having to worry about the tip of 

your tongs getting covered in muck while 

rushing about cooking was a surprisingly 

welcome treat. Lunch was a feast of grilled 

vegetables, chicken marinated in yogurt 

and miso mixture, lightly toasted rice balls, 

and Spanish Gambas al Ajillo appetizer with 

mouth-watering shrimp. 

CUTTING-EDGE KNIVES 

From there we headed to Tojiro Co Ltd, an internationally 

renowned knife producer – and 

purveyor of the knives we had tried the day 

before. Here we were rewarded with a special 

tour guiding us through how craftsmen make 

their knives – spending over two months from 

start to finish on one knife for special custom-made 

ones. While here, you can buy your 

very own Tojiro knife from the knife gallery. 

Here, our trip came to an end, leaving us with 

an understanding that Niigata-made items are 

not just beautifully designed, but also practical 

and easy to use. 

AFTER LUNCH COMES DINNER 

By the time we had finished our meal, 

we already had to start preparing dinner. 

Camping in autumn meant we were short 

on daylight hours, so to make the most of the 

light we had, we started cooking early. Dinner 

would be a creamy Thai chicken curry, with 

rice cooked in a glistening copper pot on a gas 

stove. Though we worried about cooking the 

rice this way – normally it takes a fair amount 

of time and skill with temperature control 

– the rice was perfectly cooked within 20 

minutes. Thanks to the high conductivity 

of the copper, the rice cooked both quickly 

and evenly, and faster than it would have 

using a normal rice cooker. With the curry, 

we had a feast of grilled pepper steaks, Japanese 

scallops with basil butter, and steamed 

edamame pepperoncino. 


Looking for a great place to eat, shop, sleep or play in Tokyo? Welcome to Weekender's 

roundup of recommended restaurants, hotels, stores, salons and more. Here, we share 

this month's editor's picks, but for the full lineup – as well as reader discounts and 

special offers – simply head to www.tokyoweekender.com/the-concierge 

Elana Jade Club 360 

In need of some pampering? Elana Jade offers a range of deluxe 

beauty treatments that will have you looking beautiful from 

head to toe. All products used in our organic skincare lines are 

delivered by internationally trained and experienced therapists. 

Special offer: Enjoy a Peeling Facial for ¥11,000 (normal price 

¥14,000), valid until November 30. 

Club 360 is Tokyo’s premier fitness and rehabilitation 

center, offering personal training, physiotherapy, sports 

massage, exercise classes, boxing and various classes for 

children. Whilst getting in shape, make sure you recover 

with a sports massage from one of Club 360’s highly qualified therapists. 

Special offer: Mention Tokyo Weekender and receive your 

first personal training session for just ¥5,400. 

HEALTH, BEAUTY & FITNESS | EDITORS CHOICE 

www.elanajade.com 

03-6453-9319 

www.club360.jp 

03-6434-9667 

B1 Cma3 Building, 3-1-35 Motoazabu, Minato-ku 

HEALTH, BEAUTY & FITNESS | EDITORS CHOICE 

4F NS Azabu Juban Building, 3-6-2 Azabu Juban, Minato-ku 

ABOUT TOWN | EDITORS CHOICE 

Fujimoto 

Dental Clinic 

At this Ginza-based clinic, which was 

founded in 1981, you’ll not only receive 

world-class specialist restorative 

and periodontal dental care, but you’ll 

also be in the expert hands of Dr Kohei Fujimoto. 

He is fluent in English, a graduate of the 

University of Washington’s Graduate Periodontics 

Program, and certified as a Diplomate of the 

American Board of Periodontology. Appointments 

can be made via phone. 

www.fujimoto-dental.com 

03-5551-0051 

4F Kami-Pulp Kaikan, 3-9-11 Ginza, Chuo-ku 

14 | SEPTEMBER NOVEMBER 2017 | | TOKYO WEEKENDER

EAT, SHOP, DRINK 

In our 16-page end-of-year special, we've rounded up 42 gift ideas, from luxury fashion to 

traditional handcrafted goods and eats that are only made in Japan. Done shopping? Then 

it's time to celebrate: skip to page 26 for some of our top bonenkai spots in Tokyo. 


[ PROMOTION ] 

SHOP TILL YOU DROP 

AT GINZA SIX 

Whether you're looking for a luxe Christmas gift or simply a fancy Tokyo souvenir, 

here are our recommended Japanese and international brands and items from GINZA SIX 

Words by Vivian Morelli 

HELMUT LANG 

Filled with sharp-lined silhouettes 

and quiet color schemes, 

Helmut Lang debuted in the 

mid-1980s as one of fashion’s 

first minimalist labels. Now, 

for the first time in Japan, the 

GINZA SIX branch combines 

both women's and men’s 

fashion for a convenient 

one-stop shopping spree. We 

love their sleek leather jacket 

(¥95,000), which embodies 

the minimalistic vibe of the 

label, and comes with a hood 

for extra warmth. (If you’re 

shopping for the man in your 

life, note that their menswear 

range is only available at 

the GINZA SIX and Aoyama 

branches.) 


Displaying until: Feb 25, 2018 Photo Credit: 草間彌生 ≪ 南瓜 ≫ cYAYOI KUSAMA 

[ END-OF-YEAR SPECIAL PROMOTION ] 

EBURE 

Japanese brand ebure offers 

high quality clothing, designed 

to make women feel they are 

blessed to be born a woman, 

and make life feel more fun 

– in the brand's own words. 

Their elegant pieces are aimed 

at sophisticated women who 

appreciate the finer things in 

life. When it started in 2016, the 

label launched a collection of 

10 winter coats, which became 

their mainstay. For this coming 

winter, ebure has added a her- 

TOP 4 CHRISTMAS 

STOCKING BUYS 

FRANCK MULLER GENEVE 

The latest offering from Franck Muller's luxurious 

pastry range, this traditional Italian 

dessert, Baci di dama, meaning "confession 

of love," will hit a sweet spot (¥4,000). 

ringbone-patterned 100% cashmere 

luxury coat (¥330,000), 

featuring a black lining that 

peeks in bursts as you move. 

Belt the high waist to create a 

beautifully feminine line, while 

all you’ll feel is a warm and soft 

blanket wrapped around you. 

BELSTAFF 

Established in England in 1924, BELSTAFF is still rooted in the label's motorsports 

heritage. The collections are all about rugged elegance, with high-quality designs 

and structured cuts. Their waxed cotton jacket is a good example of their offerings, 

presenting a vintage-inspired design with a fabric that regulates according to the body 

and outside temperatures. Although BELSTAFF is mostly known for its leather jackets, we 

also recommend their Colonial messenger bag, the perfect daily companion thanks to its 

practical front pockets, available in sturdy cotton canvas (¥79,500 ) or luxurious leather 

(¥112,500). 

JO MALONE LONDON 

This English Pear & Freesia Cologne 

(¥16,800) by the British lifestyle brand comes 

in a limited holiday-edition bottle. Only available 

at select shops, including GINZA SIX. 

BRITISH MADE 

For the person who loves to read, nothing 

can beat this chic leather book cover 

(¥9,500) that comes in an array of hues 

with a vibrant green bookmark. 

LEICA 

Like Instagram but in real life: Leica Sofort 

(¥33,500) is an instant camera that has a selection 

of add-on filters you can adjust to fit 

the situation or mood you want to portray.

[ PROMOTION ] 

OKANO 

If you’re in the market for a 

Japan-made, high-quality fashion 

item, OKANO is the place to visit at 

GINZA SIX. Founded in 1897, OKANO 

manufactures Hakata-ori textiles, 

which are dyed-in silk textiles from 

the Fukuoka region. While OKANO 

mostly produces kimono garments in 

partnership with craftspeople from 

various regions, the brand is also 

notable for its gorgeous silk scarves. 

For Christmas, OKANO has created 

a scarf (¥57,000) featuring a small 

reindeer pulling the label’s ship logo 

like a sleigh. The scarf is adorned 

with snowflakes, making it a festive 

and seasonal must-have item. 

UNDERCOVER 

Founded in 1990 by Jun Takahashi, UN- 

DERCOVER is a Japanese fashion label 

known for its punk-infused streetwear 

styles. And thanks to the recent addition 

of secondary brands SueUNDERCOVER 

and JohnUNDERCOVER, also designed 

by Takahashi, there is something for 

every taste. If you’re looking for a 

playful yet practical present this holiday 

season, the brand’s apple-shaped clock 

(¥15,800), made by Medicom Toy, is 

undoubtedly the most stylish way to 

keep track of time. 

BY MALENE BIRGER 

Danish brand By Malene Birger creates clothes that are modern and 

effortless to wear. Beautiful fabrics and intricate handcrafted details 

define each collection. The relaxed silhouettes are a good representation 

of the label’s philosophy, which is to help women have the courage 

to live their own lives. The Arabian Flower motif became the brand’s 

signature print after the brand’s founder traveled around Morocco 

and was inspired by the patterned tiles and mats. The Gretah mini tote 

bag (¥27,000) featuring the flower motif comes in an array of colors 

that will suit every style. 



CA4LA 

CA4LA is the kind of shop that feels like 

your own closet – their aim is to create 

just that. While the brand offers original, 

made-in-Japan items, it also stocks 

specially selected brands from around 

the world. The GINZA SIX branch even 

boasts an atelier inside the store, which 

allows customers to create their own 

custom hats, with a selection of vintage 

accessories from the likes of Paris and 

London. For Christmas, CA4LA has 

launched a silk hat with a falcon motif 

(¥50,000), inspired by the works of 

Japanese traditional artist and painter 

Doujin Tenryu. Customers are invited 

to customize it, and we think it makes 

a unique present for your favorite 

fashionista. 

TOP 4 

SOUVENIR BUYS 

D-BROS 

There's no chance of these pretty flower 

vases (¥1,000-¥1,800 per set) breaking as, 

believe it or not, they're made from plastic. 

Easy to store and transport, the vases "come 

to life" when you pour water into them. 

CONVERSE TOKYO 

Pretty much everyone at some 

point in their lives has owned a 

pair of Converse shoes: they’re 

practical, popular, and never go 

out of style. The brand with the 

recognizable star logo has been 

around for over a century, and 

is still thriving today. For the upcoming 

holidays, Converse Tokyo 

has released a bucket-shaped bag 

(¥13,000) – FYI, the must-have bag 

style this season. It comes in black 

and features a playful fringe that 

sways as you sashay, shiny studs, 

and the signature star logo. You can 

safely fit all your daily belongings 

in there as it closes with a drawstring, 

and you can wear it as a 

shoulder bag or as a handbag. 

CIBONE CASE 

A plate so gorgeous it'll fit into any home 

décor: this modern craft work by Dutch 

designer Hella Jongerius reinterprets 

traditional Japanese crafting skills. 

¥135,000, various designs available. 

DISCORD YOHJI 

YAMAMOTO 

Note: all listed prices are excluding tax. 

Discord Yohji Yamamoto at GINZA 

SIX is the first store in the world to 

offer the brand's full collection, and 

stands as its flagship shop. The focus 

of this collection is luxury accessories 

such as high-quality bags and scarves 

featuring unique prints. Coveted 

items include the Geta sandals, 

inspired by traditional footwear worn 

by geisha, and the teardrop-shaped 

Y-Backpack (¥108,000). For Christmas, 

this last item takes a festive twist as 

it will come in silver leather, and in a 

one-shoulder strap style (¥85,000) version. 

If you’re looking for something 

in a mini version, go for the “Y-Pouch” 

(¥36,000), a small pouch-shaped bag 

that's a new addition to the series. 

TOWEL THINK LAB 

Give your face an extra bit of luxury with 

this supima cotton bath towel (¥10,000) – 

the ripple pattern potrays the picturesque 

scene of Seto Inland Sea, and is inspired 

by the calm seashore of Setouchi region. 

JOTARO SAITO 

Jotaro Saito has modernized the traditional 

kimono, taking it to the runways. Pick up 

their seasonal Nishijin silk scarf (¥158,500), 

printed with a motif of birch trees in 

wintertime.


RYUKYU HANPU OKINAWAN- 

INSPIRED BAGS BY 

OKINAWA-WIND CORP 

Looking for a dose of summer spirit 

to get you through the approaching 

winter months? Well, these 

Okinawan-inspired hanpu textile 

bags will do the trick, while also 

serving as a great statement piece. 

The bags are all designed, cut and 

sewn by three female craftsmen, 

who bring their own personal 

touch to each unique piece. Tote or 

stroll bag, floral or butterfly prints, 

Ryukyu Hanpu offers over 70 types 

of bags featuring a variety of illustrations 

by well-known Okinawan 

artists. ¥7,000 (excl. tax), 

www.okinawa-wind.com 

Looking for something more quintessentially Japanese for that perfect gift or souvenir? We’ve 

selected our favorite handcrafted items from Omotenashi Selection, a project that brings together 

fine goods from around the country and shares them with international audiences 

Words by Naomi Schanen 

MAEKAKE JAPANESE 

TRADITIONAL APRON BY 

ANYTHING CO. 

While it may just look like a rectangular 

piece of fabric, the maekake 

apron serves a bigger role. Inscribed 

with a shop’s name or logo, it was 

traditionally viewed as the first step 

in customer interaction. It also guards 

from spills, and even serves as a 

lower back strain easer by supporting 

the pelvis when lifting heavy things. 

Through careful weaving using 

Meiji- and Taisho-era methods, and 

introducing original designs, Anything 

has revived the maekake in a variety 

of sizes and colors. From ¥5,900 (excl. 

tax), anything.ne.jp/english.html 


“PANDORA” YAKI-KIRI TRADITIONAL PAINTED BOX BY 

PAULOWNIA FURNITURE AZUMA 

Yes, a box. But not just any kind of box. In an era when low-margin, 

high-volume production is the norm, Azuma strives to produce only the 

highest quality items, one by one, using the best materials. The Pandora 

Box is made through a melange of old and new – the traditional manufacturing 

technique of yaki-kiri is combined with a new finishing method 

to bring out the smooth texture of the wood. While most lacquer items 

are created with artificial paint and an urushi coating finish, Azuma’s are 

made using only real urushi lacquer coating, leaving the delicate boxes 

with that gorgeous shine. ¥200,000 (excl. tax), azuma-kiri.jp 

ORGANIC COTTON MASK 

BY WAY-OUT INC. 

Say goodbye to foggy glasses and breathing difficulties 

with these gentle, gauze-woven, organic cotton 

masks that are eco-friendly, reusable, and available 

in six pastel shades (using plant-derived dyes). Being 

ill never looked so good. From ¥1,600 (excl. tax), 

way-out.sunnyday.jp 

FUMFUM TABI SHOES 

BY GENNAI SEIYAKU CO. 

What do you get when you cross traditional Japanese 

shoes with kids’ fashion? Fumfum’s animal 

tabi shoes. Developed by pharmaceutical company 

employees, the shoes help to prevent common foot 

problems, and provide stability and strength. 

¥2,759 (excl. tax), tabi-fumfum.jp 

KIZARA KYOGI WOOD SHAVINGS MEMO 

PAD BY FORESTFEELING CO., LTD 

Made with pieces of kyogi (thinly shaved wooden 

material) between 0.15mm and 0.25mm thick, these 

memo pads take writing to a whole new level. Unbelievably 

smooth and beautifully textured thanks to 

the tree’s natural oils, your pen will positively glide 

across the page. From ¥480, kizara.org/english 

LOG MORE TREES LEATHER 

SPEAKER BY SYRINX 

Unlike conventional wooden 

or metal speakers, this audio 

system is encased with soft Yezo 

sika deer leather from Hokkaido. 

This not only helps to reduce 

vibration, reverberation and 

resonance, but also spreads the 

sound evenly to give you that live 

music feel. Sleek, innovative and 

stylish, the speakers fit well into 

all kinds of décor. Over 100,000 

Yezo sika deer are captured 

every year to protect the forests, 

so the product is in fact utilizing 

leather that would otherwise 

go to waste. ¥90,000 (excl. tax), 

syrinx.audio 

HANDMADE HOME 

FRAGRANCES BY PARFUM 

SYMPHONIE 

Ever wish your home smelled like 

Japanese gardens and sake? Made by a 

perfumer who trained at an acclaimed 

perfume institute in France, Parfum 

Symphonie’s handmade collection 

of fragrances includes eye-catching 

names such as Fleur de Wasabi and 

Mizubasho. Much like composing a 

piece of orchestral music, where sounds 

from each instrument combine to create 

music, these home fragrances are a 

beautiful blend of Japanese scents all 

coming together in perfect harmony. 

Whether you use them at home or while 

traveling, these unique and compact 

perfumes are a great way to always have 

a piece of Japan with you. And guests will 

love them, too. Violette Leaf ¥3,612, Cassis 

Wood ¥3,797, Shara ¥3,797, Aska ¥3,797, 

Mizubasho ¥3,797, Bamboo ¥3,982, 

Sandalwood ¥3,982, Crossover ¥4,167, 

Fleur de Wasabi ¥4,167 (all prices excl. 

tax), parfumsymphonie.shop 


OSECHI SET BY 

AUSSIE FOODS 

CO., LTD 

Osechi ryori refers to 

traditional Japanese 

New Year foods, 

and this special set 

features 17 carefully 

selected ingredients all with distinctive meanings 

for celebrating the occasion. ¥20,370 (excl. 

tax), www.aussie-fan.co.jp/lp/kin-osechi.html 

GIFT POPCORN 

BY NAGASAKINO 

ROJIURA CAFÉ 

Castella-sponge-cakeor 

chanpon-noodleflavored 

popcorn, 

anyone? Made from 

healthy ingredients 

such as tea leaves and veggies, with no artificial 

coloring, Gift Popcorn promotes Nagasaki 

Prefecture’s unique flavors and culture. 

¥500 (excl. tax), nagasaki-no-cafe.com 

BUN-YEMON- 

GURA JAPANESE 

SEASONING 

SERIES BY 

SHODA SHOYU 

CO., LTD 

Including flavorful 

soy sauces, stock and seasonings, these condiments 

seek to accentuate the richness of Japanese 

ingredients. We also love their mosaicpatterned 

packaging inspired by Japan’s terraced 

rice fields and stone-paved paths. From 

¥500 per item (excl. tax), bunyemongura.jp 

KATARIBE PAPER STENCIL 

ANDON LANTERN BY AKARI CO. 

Create a relaxing Zen atmosphere in your home with these traditional 

andon lanterns. Bringing back the art of ise-katagami (making and 

using paper stencils to dye traditional patterns onto kimonos), the lamps 

create an elegant silhouette of kimono patterns on your walls. The 

urushi lacquer painted onto the frame prevents damage or color fading. 

¥170,000 (excl. tax), k-akari.co.jp/en 

ORGANIC JAP- 

ANESE GREEN 

TEA POWDER BY 

NODOKA 

Did you know that 

most of the nutrients 

in green tea are in 

the leaves? Instead 

of throwing them away, Nodoka crushes them 

to create a 100% organic tea powder, ensuring 

you receive all the health benefits. From ¥1,200 

(excl. tax), nodokatea.com 

MORE INFO 

For more information about these products as 

well as the Omotenashi Selection project, visit 

omotenashinippon.jp 

ENCASE ENVELOPE-SHAPED LONG WALLET 

BY TSURUMIYA CO., LTD 

Tired of carrying around a bulky wallet that doesn’t easily slip into 

your pocket? Fear not, for the thin and functional Encase wallet is here. 

Inspired by fukusa (a traditional textile used for wrapping or to clean 

utensils during a tea ceremony) and the humble envelope, this Italiancowhide 

wallet is a stylish new alternative. With no clasp used, Encase 

manages to hold up to 30 bills and six cards, as well as a passport and 

a bank book. What’s more, the longer you use it, the more it molds to 

fit comfortably in your hand. Choose from black, dark brown, green, 

orange or blue to match and vamp up your outfit. 

¥37,000 (excl. tax), munekawa.jp 


WAVELET BOARD 

GAME BY KYOUWA 

PRECISION CO. 

Feeling nostalgic for the days 

when people played board 

games and simply enjoyed 

each other’s company? Allow 

us to introduce this intricately 

crafted reversi game. With a 

board carved using 3D cutting 

technology and gem-like brass 

and aluminum metal pieces, 

this is an advanced revival 

of a classic game. While its 

seamless design is enticing 

enough, Kyouwa Precision 

Co. hopes that the game 

will double as “a carefully 

created product for a precious 

moment.” Relax and slip back 

into the good ol’ days. 

¥37,000 (excl. tax), teyney.jp 

ARTOLETTA DESIGNER 

TOILETS BY TAIKOU JUKEN 

CORPORATION 

EDO KIRIKO “HOKUSAI BLUE & RED” 

GLASSWARE BY SHIMIZU GLASS CO. 

Hokusai’s famous woodblock prints of Mount Fuji 

have been reproduced in various ways, but none 

as delicately and exquisitely as in Shimizu Glass’s 

collection. The red and blue glassware based on 

the prints are a modern take on the classic designs. 

Asymmetrical patterns and V-shaped engravings 

make it look as though Hokusai’s entire image wraps 

around the glass. Beautifully catching the light, these 

Edo Kiriko glasses make for the perfect practical 

gift and Japanese memento. ¥18,000 (excl. tax), 

tokyoteshigoto.tokyo/en 

Reversing the stereotype that toilets 

should be white or plain, Artoletta 

is taking Japan’s high quality loos to 

another level. People want to keep 

beautiful things clean, so the more 

artistic the toilet, the cleaner it will be 

kept, right? How about bright pink, 

leopard print, or perhaps Hokusai’s 

notable wave painting? The latest 

CG technology and craftsmen’s 

handwork make it possible for 

these designs to be added to the 

toilet bowl despite its curve. Spice 

up your bathroom with your very 

own designer toilet and hop on the 

futuristic bandwagon. ¥250,000 

decoration fee, design and toilet fee 

separate, taikoujuken.com 

FUJIYAMA MOUNT FUJI SAKE CUP BY YOTSUI CO. 

Nothing sounds better than sipping on a glass of sake with a view of Mount 

Fuji. A collaboration between Fujiyama and Osaka Suzuki Co., Ltd, these sake 

cups will let you do just that, but from the comfort of your home. The tin cups 

are carefully and individually manufactured by skilled craftsmen. Available in 

a variety of urushi-lacquer colors, the cups are designed to resemble the iconic 

mountain when placed upside down, and can be a neat little decorative item 

when not being used. What’s more, the small indentations on the inside help 

to form fine beer bubbles, enhancing your drinking experience. For those of 

you with other drinks of choice, there are different sized cups for sake, beer, 

whiskey, shochu, and mineral water. Guinomi sake cup ¥5,000, guinomi sake cup 

pair set ¥10,000, tumbler (small) ¥8,000, tumbler (small) pair set ¥16,000, tumbler 

(medium) ¥12,000, tumbler (large) ¥15,000 (all prices excl. tax), www.421art.com 



Despite the rainy weather 

last month, we headed 

over to Shintora Tabisuru 

Market – an ongoing 

event just outside 

Toranomon Hills that promotes 

regions from across Japan – to join 

fellow culture and food enthusiasts 

for a taste of some of the country’s 

best local specialties. Consisting of 

several pop-up stalls and a shop, 

the autumn edition of the market is 

a gathering of tasty snacks, elegant 

handmade crafts and beautiful, 

practical yakimono pottery 

(amongst other goods) sourced 

from six different cities in Kagoshima, 

Mie and Niigata Prefectures. 

In between sampling plum salad 

dressing, juicy barbecued yakibuta 

(roast pork) and sencha green tea, 

all perfect for the gloomy weekend, 

we tried on samurai warrior 

costumes, had a go at making 

traditional Japanese paper balloon 

balls, and warmed up with a dip 

in the foot bath. Pretty much the 

ideal family outing. But don’t worry 

if you missed last month's market 

lineup – you can still buy some of 

the beautifully crafted souvenirs 

from this season’s featured regions 

at the Tabisuru Store until November 

26. Why not set out on a virtual 

trip to craft villages around Japan 

to find the perfect present? 

PERFECTLY 

CRAFTED PRESENTS 

FOR ORIGINAL, HANDCRAFTED HOLIDAY GIFTS FROM JAPAN, HEAD 

STRAIGHT TO THE TABISURU STORE 

Words by Lisa Wallin and Naomi Schanen 

FOR THE ALE IMBIBER 

Niigata is well known for its metalwork, 

and it shows in this brilliant handhammered 

purple copper tumbler from 

Yahiko village. It'll keep your beer frosty 

cold and your bar décor on point with 

its tasteful and elegant design. 

Purple copper tumbler (350ml) ¥18,360 

FOR THE AESTHETICS LOVER 

Kumiko-style woodwork is a sophisticated 

method where pieces of wood are assembled to 

make intricate patterns and designs, without the 

use of nails. These coasters and pot holders from 

Komono are a beautiful addition to any home. 

Hot pad for pots ¥3,240, interlaced coaster ¥1,404, 

snowflake coaster ¥2,160. 


FOR THE SWEET-TOOTH 

For an after-dinner treat, this convenient box set contains a selection of chocolates, cookies 

and cakes – and even the drip coffee to go with them! Enticing nibbles like matcha 

baumkuchen rusk cookies and matcha cheese tarts are sure to make any guest come back 

for seconds. 

Coffee, chocolate, and cake set ¥3,240 

FOR THE GOURMET 

Home to world-renowned Satsuma pottery, 

Hioki City’s selection of ceramics proves 

simple designs are always in style. These 

spectacular Kuro Satsuma pieces feature 

black-bodied ceramic bowls coated in a 

dark overglaze and are easy to hold in one 

hand – perfect for when you're grabbing a 

second serving. 

Rice bowl (black or golden brown) ¥2,160 

FOR THE HARD 

TO PLEASE 

It can be hard to find 

items that are both 

aesthetically attractive 

and will get plenty of 

use, but we’re sure this 

adornment will tick both 

boxes: a long-lasting 

Christmas wreath in soft 

pastels and muted purple 

shades. The flowers are 

handmade by slicing the 

stalk of the sola tree into 

thin strips, then molding 

them into delicate petal 

shapes, which will last 

an eternity. 

Christmas wreath ¥10,800 

FOR THE CONNOISSEUR 

For something a little bit stronger, the Kagoshima-made Saru 

series from Komasa Jyozo Co., Ltd offers a selection of three fruity 

and fragrant shochu varieties in compact 500ml bottles. Though 

shochu is usually served straight, on the rocks or with hot water, 

this particular range is great when mixed into cocktails as well. 

Akazaru, Kizaru, Shirozaru shochu (500 ml), ¥864 

Shintora Tabisuru Store’s regional crafts selection is available until 

November 26, while the autumn market runs until December 27. 

Address: 2-16 Nishi-Shinbashi, Minato-ku 

Web: www.tabisuru-market.jp 


10 TOP TOKYO 

BONENKAI SPOTS 

WHERE TO “FORGET THE YEAR” THIS 

COMING FESTIVE SEASON 

Words by Patrick St. Michel and Naomi Schanen 

For many, 2017 is probably a year they want to forget, 

or at least blur out a little. Luckily, those living in Japan 

get the perfect chance to do just that. Every December, 

as the year comes to a close, groups of friends and 

companies gather for bonenkai, or “forget the year 

parties.” Before breaking out the new calendar, these happenings 

between tight-knit groups allow everyone a chance to say goodbye 

to the past 12 months together. 

That entails a lot of revelry. Bonenkai typically take place in 

a nice restaurant or karaoke spot, ideally one with ample space 

for everyone to gather around. Partygoers share a wide variety of 

delicious dishes and throw back some (or a lot of ... everyone’s year is 

different) drinks, with many a Suntory beverage making an appearance. 

You need to start prepping your bonenkai now, and to that end, 

here are some of the finest places to say goodbye to 2017 in style. 

AKASAKA GODAIGO 

HANARE 

DEN AQUA ROOM 

AOYAMA 

Small talk isn’t a problem 

at the luxe Den Aqua Room 

Aoyama. The walls of this 

basement restaurant feature 

tanks full of fish, some rainbow 

colored and others looking 

like they’re straight out of 

the Mesolithic. Coupled with 

the intimate lighting and relaxing 

music, it’s a good place 

to reminisce on the year. Den Aqua Room offers both course 

menus and, for groups of over 40, a buffet option, highlighted by 

pork in a red wine sauce and yuzu-glazed sausage. They mix up 

over 60 cocktails too, including eight types of highballs featuring 

Suntory whiskey and bourbon. Once the night is finished, snap a 

group photo in front of the aquarium. 

B1F KDX Minami Aoyama Bldg., 5-13-3 Minato-ku, 

050-3171-8346, aqua-aoyama.com/ 

Opened just this past September, 

Akasaka Godaigo Hanare 

guarantees to warm you up in 

the colder months. That’s all 

thanks to their signature dish, 

oden, served in a ceramic pot 

placed smack dab in the middle 

of the table for everyone to 

enjoy. Hanare keeps it simple, 

highlighting the taste of daikon 

with a clear broth. Round out 

your bonenkai dining experience 

with sashimi, yakitori or even 

meat cooked on a stone grill, all 

for reasonable prices. On top of 

a year-end course plan, you can 

also get an all-you-can-drink 

service for a little more, allowing 

you a flowing supply of Suntory 

beer and highballs. 

B1F Akasaka Alto Bldg., 3-8-1 

Akasaka, Minato-ku, 03-6435- 

5816, www.daiwa-j.com/shop/ 

godaigo/akasakahanare/ 



KARAOKE KAN ROPPONGI MAIN STORE 

Nothing complements a year-end party like some group singing. Karaoke Kan Roppongi provides 

a premium experience that doesn’t end at the songbook. The towering building features spacious 

rooms decked out with lights, throwback standing mics and views of Tokyo Tower. It carries over 

to the food, highlighted by easy-to-share plates of yakisoba, pizza and fried chicken. Save room for 

the tower of onion rings, and also for a big glass of Suntory beer or a premium highball featuring a 

variety of Suntory whiskeys. And all of the courses are affordable, so you won’t break the year-end 

budget. Plus, the costumes are free. 

5-1-6 Roppongi, Minato-ku, 03-5786-9400, tinyurl.com/karaokekan 

ROCKY3 

The folks behind Rocky3 in Akasaka- 

Mitsuke carry on family traditions at 

the cozy spot. The store’s origins trace 

back to Fukuoka after World War II, 

when the owner’s grandma started 

making grilled meat on skewers for 

customers. Now that taste of Kyushu 

comes to Tokyo, with assorted juicy 

meats, and rich side dishes such as 

a Camembert cheese melt. It’s great 

for a bonenkai because it’s easier 

to eat beef off a stick than grill it 

yourself. They stock 180 varieties of 

wine in house, many from Suntory, 

along with a bar stocked with whiskey 

and nihonshu. Make sure to give the 

punching bag near the door a nice jab 

on the way out. 

4-3-30 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo, 

03-5545-5866 



KUURAKU AND FUKUMIMI 

All run by the Kuuraku Group, Kuuraku 

and the Fukumimi bistros are masters 

of the izakaya favorite: yakitori skewers. 

Tucked away in all their respective 

locations – Ginza, Shinjuku and Shibuya 

– the restaurants were initially only for 

those in the know, with customers hearing 

about them through word of mouth. 

Serving yakitori and sosaku ryori such 

as chicken and vegetable hot pot nabe, 

the pick-and-choose, plate-style dishes 

make the food easy to share and fun 

to eat. While the Kuuraku branch is a 

bigger, more elegant and stylish venue 

targeting salarymen, the Fukumimi 

bistros are more casual, intimate spots, 

popular amongst shoppers and tourists 

in the busy districts. Suitable for both 

small and large groups, the restaurants 

often host parties and events, making 

them relaxed yet stylish places for eating 

and drinking the year away. 

Kuuraku Ginza: B1F, 1-16-1 Ginza, Chuoku, 

03-3538-6226, kuuraku-ginza.com 

Fukumimi Shinjuku: 2F, 3-9-5 Shinjuku, 

Shinjuku-ku, 03-3351-9929, 

www.kuuraku.co.jp/shop/fukumimi_shinjuku 

Fukumimi Shibuya: B1F, 2-25-17 

Dougenzaka, Shibuya-ku, 03-3461-2911, 

fukumimi-shibuya.com 

NIPPON MAGURO GYOGYODAN 

For the office or friend circle that can’t get enough of 

tuna, this Shimbashi izakaya is for you. Nippon Maguro 

Gyogyodan specializes in maguro, with the menu listing 

just where that day’s catch comes from. Set in a space 

featuring a port theme – check out the seagull statues – it’s 

a fun spot for you and your associates to try tuna sashimi 

from every part of the fish, highlighted by the super soft 

belly meat. One tip – you can request a small grill and salt 

set, which allows you to briefly cook the stomach meat 

for a special taste. Sake pairs well with the fish, and this 

restaurant offers 60 kinds to enjoy, along with Suntory 

beer and whiskeys. 

Shimbashi Renga Street Hall 4F, 2-14-3, Shinbashi, 

Minato-ku, 03-3539-4035, nippon-maguro-gyogyoudan.jp/ 


GUENPIN FUG-ROPPONGI 

One of 92 branches based in Japan and 

Singapore, Guenpin Fug-Roppongi is a tourist 

favorite for fugu (puffer fish). Using only the 

high-end tora fugu (tiger blowfish), the restaurant 

chain of 37 years takes most pride in its 

fugu sashimi and hot pot, which are both great 

for large gatherings and year-end parties. The 

most popular course is the Wild Tiger Puffer 

Course. Apart from the poison, which is of 

course removed from the puffer fish, the entire 

fish is used in a variety of dishes – all of which 

pair well with a cold pint of Suntory’s The 

Premium Malt’s or a highball. Guests can enjoy 

two hours of all-you-can-drink service, while 

enjoying the luxurious dish that is fugu. Best 

eaten in the winter and sounding a lot like the 

Japanese word for happiness (fuku), a dish of 

puffer fish at Guenpin Fug is the perfect way to 

treat yourself after a hardworking year. 

2F Hodaka Bldg., 4-12-12, Roppongi, Minato-ku, 

03-5775-5029, www.tettiri.com 

NEBOKE 

Home to Kochi Prefecture’s 

famous Tosa cuisine, Neboke 

is the perfect place to warm 

up in the winter months. 

For the past 45 years, the 

restaurant has been serving 

up its delicious bonito tataki, 

sawachi (assortment of sushi, 

tataki and sashimi on large plates), and wagyu and fish shabu 

shabu dishes. Ideal for sharing and well-paired with some hardto-find 

sakes, frothy Suntory beer or the foreigner-favorite Japanese 

whiskey, this is a great spot to celebrate the end of another 

year. Neboke, which has five restaurants in Tokyo alone, is built 

and decorated in Minka style (which you would find at traditional 

thatched-roof Japanese homes), and features kimono-clad 

waitresses serving mouth-watering delicacies from Kochi. Spoil 

your colleagues within the welcoming walls of Neboke for a tasty 

and warming Tosa meal that’s a rare find in Tokyo. 

3-11-17 Akasaka, Minato-ku, 03-3585-9640, www.kazuoh.com 

GIMMASA 

Stepping into Gimmasa in Ginza 

feels like stepping into Edo-era 

Tokyo. The restaurant celebrates 

traditional Japanese cuisine 

and boasts an omotenashi spirit, 

meaning you’ll get special attention. 

And your taste buds will 

feel decadent when presented 

with an intricately arranged plate 

of sashimi sourced from Tsukiji 

Market daily, or when you bite 

into their signature grilled tara, 

a soft piece of fish marinated in a 

special glaze for four days before 

cooking. It’s top-notch food, but 

available for a reasonable price. 

It's a great place to end 2017 

with good eats, as you sip on The 

Master’s Dream beer, Suntory's 

highest quality brew available. 

7F Gallery Center Building, 

6-3-2 Ginza, Chuo-ku, 03-5537- 

2695, robataya-ginmasa.jp/ 



Words by Alec Jordan, photos by Robert Kirsch 

Now that your bonenkai experience is 

sorted, perhaps you want to learn a little 

more about the beer you’ll be sipping 

on as you celebrate the festive season. A 

visit to Suntory’s brewery is educational 

up front, with a delicious finish 

Japan may be best known for sake, 

but if you go to bars, pubs, and 

izakayas, the drink that you’ll most 

commonly find being poured is beer. 

Japan consumed more than 2.72 

million kiloliters – that’s 718.5 million gallons 

– of the beverage in 2015, and is showing no 

signs of slowing down. 

One of the giants of Japanese beer is 

Suntory, and their flagship product is The 

Premium Malt’s, an easy drinking lager that 

goes great with Japanese food, whether it’s 

yakitori skewers from a yatai during the summer 

or a hearty yakiniku feast in the middle 

of winter. 

Suntory has four breweries in Japan: one 

in Tokyo’s Musashino area, one in Kyoto, one 

in Gunma, and one in Kumamoto, and tours 

are available at three of the breweries. When 

we heard about the opportunity to visit their 

Musashino brewery recently, we jumped at 

the chance. 

A short walk from Fuchu Hommachi 

Station, the brewery is a massive operation, 

producing hundreds of thousands of liters 

of beer every day. Walking into the facilities, 

we were greeted by our tour guide, who led 

us to a small auditorium where an instructional 

video played and explained some of 

the things that make The Premium Malt’s the 

unique beer that it is – and as the tour moved 

into the manufacturing facilities, we got to 

see these for ourselves. 

As our tour guide explained, only three 

ingredients go into The Premium Malt’s: 

water, barley, and hops. The first, and most 

plentiful ingredient in beer is water. In fact, 

beer is 90 percent water – so if anyone tries 

to tell you that beer isn’t a healthy drink, you 

can always counter with that! In order to ensure 

a plentiful supply of 100 percent natural 

water, each of Suntory’s four breweries is 

located close to a fresh water source. In the 

case of the brewery in Musashino, the water 

source is the Tama River, and water for the 

beer is drawn daily from an enormous well 

at the brewery. Every day, Suntory’s brewers 

taste the water to make sure it will bring out 

the best of the other two ingredients. 

What comes next is barley. Suntory 

uses the finest two-row barley to make its 

malt, and adds a rarely found diamond malt 

(which comes from Czech Republic and surrounding 

countries) to its barley mix, making 


for an even deeper flavor. We were given a 

chance to taste the barley, which reminded 

us a bit of oatmeal that hadn’t yet been 

cooked. Finally, tour participants get a 

chance to smell hop pellets, which have a 

sharp, bitter aroma that balances out the 

natural sweetness of the barley malt. 

After seeing the raw material that goes 

into making the beer, we were brought 

into a large section of the brewery where 

the first part of the magic that is beer 

brewing happens, and where you get to 

learn just a bit of the science behind a tall 

frosty one. 

The malt is made from barley that is allowed 

to germinate, or sprout, which kicks 

off a biochemical process that gets it ready 

to brew beer. It develops the enzymes 

that will help turn the barley’s starch into 

sugar, and other enzymes that transform 

proteins in the grain into substances that 

the yeast, which will be used for fermentation, 

can “digest.” 

In large tuns, or vats, the malt is 

mixed with water and heated in a process 

known as mashing. At this stage, the 

starches in the malt are broken down into 

sugars by enzymes that are present in the 

malt. One of the techniques that Suntory 

uses to add a special touch to their beer 

is a process known as double decoction, 

which means that part of the mash is taken 

out of the tun and boiled, or decocted, 

two times in order to draw out the unique 

flavors of the malt. 

A TASTY WAY 

TO FINISH OFF 

A LEARNING 

EXPERIENCE 

At this point, the sweet mixture of heated 

malt and water is known as wort, and the 

smell of it heating away in a large section 

of the brewery is much like the smell of 

oatmeal cooking in the morning – except 

on a much larger scale. You can also peer 

into the various tuns, thanks to windows 

mounted on top of them, which let you see 

exactly what is going on inside. 

The next stage in the production of the 

wort is crucial to the flavor of good beer. In 

order to balance out the sweetness of the 

wort and add complexity to the flavor of 

the brew, hops are added to the wort twice: 

once when it begins to boil, and again just 

at the time when the boiling is about to 

stop. Suntory uses aroma hops for the first 

hopping stage, and these hops impart a 

bitter flavor that balances out the sweetness 

of the malt. Meanwhile, in the second 

hopping, fine aroma hops are used, which 

give the beer an elegant, refined aroma. 

The next step is fermentation, which 

takes place at a much lower temperature 

than wort production. Yeast is added to the 

hopped wort, and during fermentation, 

the yeast turns the sugars in the wort into 

alcohol and carbon dioxide. After about 

seven days, the fermentation transforms 

the mixture into “young beer,” which is 

then matured as its flavor gets milder. Once 

it is matured, it is filtered, removing all of 

the materials that were used from the earlier 

stages of the beer-making process. What is 

left behind is the clear, golden color that is the 

mark of a fine lager beer. 

Finally, the beer is packaged in cans, 

bottles, kegs, and other containers – guests 

on the tour can watch cans of The Premium 

Malt’s moving along conveyor belts, and boxed 

into cases. 

After seeing so much of the work that 

goes into making the beer, we were more than 

ready to taste the final product. Fortunately, 

the final – and just maybe our favorite – part 

of the brewery tour is a visit to Suntory’s 

tasting rooms, where guests can sample three 

different varieties of The Premium Malt’s: Premium 

Lager, Kaoru Ale, and Master’s Dream, a 

Pilsener type beer. Each is served, with just the 

right amount of creamy head, in a special glass 

meant to bring out the flavor of each brew. It’s 

a tasty way to finish off a learning experience. 

To schedule a tour at Suntory’s brewery in 

Musashino, call 042-360-9591 or visit www. 

suntory.co.jp/factory/musashino/index.html 


Words by Matthew Hernon 

One of Japan's most hotly anticipated movie 

releases of 2017, March Comes in Like a Lion, 

features a teenager calmly defeating seasoned 

pros at shogi. The lead character's impressive 

skills, however, were nothing in comparison to 

a 14-year-old boy named Sota Fujii, who recently became 

a nationwide sensation after winning 29 shogi games in a 

row, breaking a record that stood for 30 years. Having won 

the heart of the nation, Fujii will probably go down as the 

standout Japanese teen of the year, though there have been 

many others who've caught our attention. Here's a look at 

some of our favorites, in the areas of business, sports and 

entertainment. 

THE START-UP KIDS 

At elementary school, Rika Shiiki had about 13 career goals. 

Not wanting to give up on any, she decided to start her own 

business so she could work on them one by one. Last year, 

the then 18-year-old was the youngest name in the media, 

advertising and marketing section of Forbes' 30 Under 30 

Asia, a list that celebrates the region's brightest young entrepreneurs, 

innovators and game changers. A year on and 

her company, JCJK, is preparing for an initial public offering 

(IPO). "We are a marketing organization made up of junior 

high and high school girls around the country who arrange 

questionnaires and partake in round table discussions," 

Shiiki recently told Weekender. "2017 has been a tough year, 

but also an exciting one as we have expanded the business 

and are planning to go public." 

GNEX is another company with big ambitions. Founded 

by Yoichiro Mikami during his early teens, it’s a digital 

marketing firm providing, amongst other things, SaaS push 

notification services from the web directly to users’ terminals. 

Over the past six and a half years, the organization has 

continued to grow and now boasts more than 5,000 clients. 

"At high school I felt I reached a limit in terms of what I 


Horizon Labo founder Hibiki Iwano 

could learn, so I dropped out to focus on the 

business," he says. "In general, Japanese people 

are afraid to take these kinds of risks, and 

that's one of the main reasons you don't see 

many start-ups here." 

Another teen who has taken up the 

challenge is Hibiki Iwano. Diagnosed with 

Asperger syndrome, he struggled to keep up 

with classroom activities at school, and found 

it difficult to connect with others. So at age 

13, he decided to quit, and within two years 

was running his own coffee business. "I had 

a hard time copying words written on the 

board, and there were many things I couldn't 

do that brought me down," he tells us. "I wanted 

to focus on what I could do with my own 

working style. I found that roasting coffee 

was the ideal way of expressing myself." With 

the support of his parents, Iwano launched 

Horizon Labo this April. Located in Gunma 

Prefecture, the shop became so crowded that 

it has been temporarily closed, but the young 

entrepreneur has since started selling his 

beans online. 

THE SPORTS SENSATIONS 

Former international flanker for the Brave 

Blossoms Katsuyuki Kiyomiya felt his son had 

the physique to follow in his footsteps as a 

rugby player. Instead, young Kotaro decided 

to take up baseball. By the time he was 13, the 

six-foot, 206-pound junior high school student 

was already being compared to former New 

York Yankees slugger Hideki Matsui, and touted 

as the Japanese Babe Ruth. Now 18, Kotaro 

is the most sought-after batter in the country 

after deciding to turn pro rather than attend 

university. He holds the unofficial high school 

record of 111 home runs. 

Another record-breaking teen making 

headlines is Takefusa Kubo. The youngest goal 

scorer in J-League history, he recently played 

in both the U-20 and U-17 World Cups. Signed 

by Barcelona in 2011, he scored 74 goals in 

his first 30 games at their famed La Masia 

youth academy. Three years later, he joined 

FC Tokyo as the Blaugrana had violated FIFA's 

international youth transfer regulations. 

He can re-sign when he's 18, and the dream 

for Japanese fans is to one day see him line 

up for the Catalan club in the Superclásico 

against Real Madrid's U-15 playmaker 

Takuhiro Nakai. 

In athletics, Yoshihide Kiryu became the 

first Japanese sprinter to break the 10-second 

barrier in the 100 meters, yet Sani Brown 

is the name creating the biggest buzz. The 

18-year-old completed a sprint double at the 

national championships in June, and then 

two months later became the youngest-ever 

finalist in the 200 meters at the World Championships 

(198 days younger than previous 

record holder Usain Bolt). The half-Ghanaian 

runner is currently enrolled at the University 

of Florida. 

At this year's World Table Tennis 

Championships, Tomokazu Harimoto, just 

13 at the time, caused the biggest upset when 

he defeated Olympic bronze medalist Jun 

Mizutani on his way to the quarter finals. 

A naturalized Japanese player with Chinese 

parents, he later became the youngest-ever 

winner of an International Table Tennis 

World Tour event, lifting the Czech Open aged 

just 14 years and 61 days, while compatriot 

Mima Ito took home the Women's Singles title. 

The pair had a combined age of 30, and will 

AT HIGH SCHOOL I FELT I REACHED A LIMIT IN TERMS 

OF WHAT I COULD LEARN, SO I DROPPED OUT TO FO- 

CUS ON THE BUSINESS 

both be expected to challenge for medals at 

the 2020 Olympics. 

As will 17-year-old swimmer Rikako Ikee, 

who won three golds at this year's World Junior 

Championships. At next February's Winter 

Olympics, snowboarder Ayumu Hirano will 

be among Japan's best hopes of a gold in the 

half pipe competition, while Marin Honda 

is viewed as the current golden girl of figure 

skating. 

Despite just turning 20, Naomi Osaka 

also deserves a mention. The young tennis 

sensation defeated former world number 

one Angelique Kerber at the US Open, and 

last month beat Venus Williams at the Hong 

Kong Open. 

THE YOUNG ENTERTAINERS 

Almost a decade on from being named in 

the Guinness Book of Records as the world's 

youngest ever professional guitarist, 17-yearold 

Yuto Miyazawa is showing that he's not 

just a skillful musician, but also a principled 

human being. "I played several charity 

concerts for refugees this year, donating all 

the revenue to the UN Refugee Agency," he 

tells Weekender. "Even though Japan accepts 

few refugees, as individuals we can make a 

difference." The mature teen started playing 

guitar aged three after being mesmerized 

by Queen's Brian May, and rose to fame 

after performing on Late Night with Conan 

O'Brien as well as twice on the Ellen DeGeneres 

Show – where he also met his hero 

Ozzy Osbourne. The former Black Sabbath 

vocalist then invited the youngster to tour 

with him. "Playing on such a big stage was a 

great learning experience," Miyazawa says. 

"I met many legendary artists including 

[Judas Priest singer] Rob Halford who protected 

me from a scary spectator." 

While admitting it's not the kind of music 

he usually listens to, Miyazawa believes 

Babymetal has what it takes to make it to 

the top. The teenage trio are seen by many 

as nothing more than a passing fad, yet are 

still going strong three-and-a-half years 

on from their debut album. So far in 2017, 

they've toured with Red Hot Chili Peppers 

and Korn, and opened for Guns N' Roses 

and Metallica. In the summer they launched 

The Five Fox Festival, a series of shows with 

gender, age and clothing restrictions. The 

group have many celebrity fans, including 

Slipknot's Corey Taylor who recently 

revealed that his son got him into them. 

For those who fancy something a little 

mellower, Mao Fujita is worth a listen. The 

18-year-old pianist has already picked up 

numerous accolades during his short career, 

and added to his extensive list this summer 

when he was awarded the prestigious Clara 

Haskil Prize, named after the renowned 

Romanian pianist. The young prodigy, who 

started playing music at the age of three, is 

the third Japanese winner of the biennial 

competition. Since making his debut with 

the Kanagawa Philharmonic Orchestra in 

2010, he has been performing in solo recitals 

and joint concerts around the globe. 

When it comes to acting, Mei Nagano 

is viewed by many as the country's rising 

star of 2017. The 18-year-old has seen her 

reputation grow since performing alongside 

Ryohei Suzuki in the romantic comedy My 

Love Story! and this year played the lead 

role in the live film adaptation of popular 

manga Daytime Shooting Star. Mana Ashida, 

who appeared in Pacific Rim, remains 

Japan's most famous teen actor. Known as 

a bookworm, she's spent most of the year 

focusing on her studies, though did feature 

prominently in the 2017 mockumentary 

Yamada Takayuki in 3D. 

GNEX founder Yoichiro Mikami 


A DIALOGUE 

WITH GRAVITY 

MEGURI@Sankai Juku 

Words by Annemarie Luck 

In the run-up to butoh dance 

company Sankaijuku’s 

performance in Tokyo this 

month, we chat with the group’s 

founder and choreographer 

Ushio Amagatsu about the 

avant-garde form of Japanese 

dance that has both unnerved 

and captivated audiences for 

nearly 60 decades 

I’m only 10 minutes into my interview with 

Ushio Amagatsu, founder of butoh dance 

company Sankaijuku, when he stands to 

demonstrate how he choreographs the 

abstract movements of his productions. 

So far, our conversation has also been pretty 

abstract, so I’m quite relieved that he’s chosen 

to show rather than tell at this point. 

“When creating a piece, my approach is 

completely different to other butoh companies,” 

he says. “I don’t use mirrors or music in 

the rehearsal room. Instead, I create virtual 

settings for each movement. Even if it is only 

two seconds long, every movement has an 

imagined story attached, and in this way the 

dance is built on layers of meaning.” 

Stretching his right arm out in front of 

him while pointing his forefinger towards 

the wall opposite us, he elaborates: “Imagine 

a very thin thread attached to your finger 

and dropping down. A miniature version of 

IT’S CHARACTERIZED BY INTENSE, OBSCURE 

MOVEMENTS PERFORMED BY DANCERS 

WITH SHAVED HEADS AND THEIR ENTIRE 

BODIES PAINTED IN WHITE 

yourself is hanging at the end of this thread. 

You, in turn, are also hanging by a thread, 

and being carried by a bigger, giant version of 

yourself.” He takes a snail-paced but purposeful 

step forwards, keeping his arm and finger 

in situ. “If you walk a single, small step in this 

context, you are carrying yourself, but you 

are also carried by yourself. This a very basic 

etude to describe how I choreograph a step.” 

If you’ve ever watched a butoh performance, 

you’re likely nodding your head as 

Amagatsu’s description calls to mind this 

minimalist yet deeply expressive form of 

contemporary dance. Founded in the 1960s 

by Hijikata Tatsumi and Ohno Kazuo, butoh 

(which means “the dance of utter darkness”) 

was born out of the confusion and desperation 

felt after World War II and the atomic 

bomb attacks on Japan. It was also an attempt 

by Tatsumi to return to Japanese aesthetics as 

he felt the country was becoming too heavily 

influenced by Western dance styles. It’s 

characterized by intense, obscure movements 

performed by dancers with shaved heads 

and their entire bodies painted in white. The 

performers are at once ghostly, unnerving, 

and captivating. In 1987, The New York Times 

summed it up as “the avant-garde dance form 

that today is Japan’s most startling cultural 

export,” and stated that “it sets out to assault 

the senses.” 

Decades later, Amagatsu’s company 

Sankaijuku, which he formed in 1975, is 

keeping this startling cultural export alive on 

stages around the world. The award-winning 

group has performed in 45 countries and vis- 


MEGURI@Sankai Juku 

ited more than 700 cities, and every 

second year they premier a new 

piece at Theatre de la Ville in Paris. 

This month, they’re performing 

their piece “Meguri – Teeming Sea, 

Tranquil Land” at the New National 

Theatre, Tokyo, marking the first 

time the production has been shown 

in a national theater. 

While Amagatsu’s style of butoh 

still has much in common with the 

original style, he is quick to point out 

that, as a second-generation artist, 

his subject matter differs to those of 

the first-generation artists, whose 

“experiences were very rooted in 

World War II.” As a result, Amagatsu 

says he began his own journey by 

asking the question, “What is butoh 

to me?” The answer he arrived 

at – which he has written about in 

several books (originally in French, 

and since translated into Japanese) – 

is that it’s a dialogue with gravity. “I 

think of the body with and without 

force; with and without tension. The 

traverse between these points really 

has an important connection to my 

style of butoh.” 

He may not be as concerned as 

his predecessors were about the war, 

but it’s clear Amagatsu still pours a 

great deal of philosophy and existentialism 

into his work. Still, his aim, he 

says, has always been to create simplicity 

on stage. And as we continue to 

speak, I find some of his answers have 

a surprisingly practical slant. 

I ask him how he feels when 

he dances. 

He replies, “Empty.” 

“Like meditation?” 

“No. Because if you’re thinking 

of something, your body’s movement 

gets delayed. If you have a void 

mind, the dancer can effortlessly 

follow what he has rehearsed in 

the studio.” 

I’m curious about the white 

make-up his dancers are cloaked 

in on stage. 

He explains, “White make-up 

existed before us, for example in 

the masks of the noh theatre and 

kabuki actors. But it also existed 

in other countries outside of Japan. 

I came to understand it as a way of 

removing ourselves from reality, 

and of removing individual personalities 

on stage. Of course, the white 

enigmatic. I ask what he likes to do 

when he’s not dancing. He replies, 

“I like to do nothing.” 

He holds his hands in the shape 

of a bowl. “When a cup is full, nothing 

can be added to it. But if a cup 

is empty, you can put something 

new inside. So doing nothing is also 

very important sometimes.” 

I leave feeling like I’d love to 

climb inside his inner world for a 

day or two, just to see what it looks 

like. And with the reminder that 

we don’t necessarily always need 

to understand something in order 

to appreciate the beauty in it. 

Ushio Amagatsu © Shintaro Shiratori 

paint also reflects the light very 

well. So you can make the dancer’s 

body like a canvas.” 

I also want to know why Sankaijuku 

only employs male dancers. 

He chuckles and says he’s been 

asked this question many times. 

“Please believe me, there is no 

discrimination against women. 

It was purely coincidental.” As 

it turns out, the reason is quite 

simply down to the fact that when 

he founded the company, he held a 

one-year workshop, and out of the 

30 dancers who applied, only three 

men stayed for the full course. 

As we wrap up our interview, 

he treats me to one more flicker of 

his abstract side. But this time his 

words are more inspirational than 

WANT TO WATCH BUTOH? 

Sankaijuku will be performing 

“Meguri – Teeming Sea, Tranquil 

Land” at the New National 

Theatre, Tokyo on November 25 

and 26. The dance, which explores 

ideas of rotation and cycles from 

the circulation of water to the 

changing seasons and beyond, 

premiered in 2015 and has to 

date been performed in 17 cities 

and seven countries. This is the 

first part of NNTT’s “Butoh Today” 

series, so look out for more butoh 

productions in the future. 

For more information visit 

www.nntt.jac.go.jp/english 


As eating disorders become more 

prevalent in Japan, health coach 

Yumi Idomoto looks at the reasons, 

the lack of support, and what’s being 

done about it 

In December 2016, a photograph released by the Imperial 

Household Agency shocked the country. It featured Princess 

Aiko, the daughter of Crown Prince Naruhito, smiling in 

celebration of her 15th birthday, but also looking like a 

different person to the Aiko we’ve come to know – she had 

evidently lost a great deal of weight and looked thin and frail. 

Although the royal family described Aiko as simply being “temporarily 

ill,” the media aggressively reported her to be anorexic. 

In September this year, model, actress and former AKB48 

member Mitsumune Kaoru announced on Twitter that she 

would be taking a break from work due to her long-term suffering 

from eating disorders. While Aiko and Kaoru are not the 

first public figures to come under the spotlight for weight loss 

and associated illnesses, to many it might still come as a surprise 

that Japan – known for its healthy diets, low obesity, and 

long lifespans (according to the WHO, as of 2016, Japan is still 

the country with the longest life expectancy) – has not escaped 

this particular disease. 

Often called a homogenous society, Japan is known for 

conformity, and its people are not highly diverse (at least on 

the surface). The general physique is smaller than in Western 

countries, and there are guidelines on appearance at all levels 

within society. At schools, for example, students wear uniforms, 

and although they are not supposed to dye their hair, some feel 

forced to color their hair black if their natural color is lighter 

(i.e. different). Naturally, there is also a substantial pressure 

to remain as thin as those around you. For adults between the 

ages of 45 and 74, there is even a government policy called 

Metabo Law, which stipulates what your waist measurements 

should be (33.5 inches for men and 35.4 inches for women), and 

is monitored through annual company health checks. In such 

an environment, it’s no wonder people are feeling pressured to 

lose weight, and look the same as everyone else. In fact, when 

you Google “anorexia” in Japanese, one of the related keywords 

that pops up is “anorexia, want to be.” 

Mami Suzuki, a registered dietitian who has experienced 

anorexia herself, says she has been getting an increasing number 

of consultations from Japanese people with eating disorders. 

“Generally, people who are perfectionists and so-called goodstudent 

types tend to suffer from eating disorders. The main 

cause is diet, but this is not always the reason.” Suzuki became 

anorexic after casually putting herself on diets when she was in 

high school. She notes: “In Japan, regardless of sex, people tend 

to be made fun of or joked about for being chubbier.” 


several prefectures are working toward 

creating treatment and support programs. 

Unfortunately, there is yet to be a medical 

facility specializing in eating disorder treatment 

founded in Tokyo. 

Before JAED was established, its preceding 

organization conducted a signaturecollecting 

campaign between 2011 and 2013 

to try and show the need for such treatment 

facilities. However, even if such facilities are 

established, there might be a new problem. 

“If people with all levels of symptoms 

rush to a new facility, it might create a long 

waiting list and patients with more serious 

symptoms cannot be prioritized. What Japan 

needs right now is to increase more medical 

professionals who can take on primary care, 

whether it be physicians or pediatricians or 

psychiatrists. Japanese psychiatric care does 

not fully integrate a clinical psychological 

point of view; the care is more medicinecentered. 

Education needs to change first,” 

says Nishizono-Maher. 

One of JAED’s aims is to create awareness 

around eating disorders, and to host 

educational seminars for medical professionals. 

This year, JAED’s seminars are open to 

clinical psychologists, registered dietitians, 

dental hygienists, and sports trainers. 

For foreigners who suffer from eating 

disorders in Japan, Nishizono-Maher advises 

that it’s important to look for help from 

somebody you trust. “It might be difficult to 

skin, and inspire people around the world to 

shift their perspective away from “the thinner 

the better,” a similar movement is happening 

in Japan. In 2013, the first magazine 

for pocchari (plus-size) girls was established 

in Japan (pocchari is a word used to describe 

overweight in a cute way), and in September 

this year, the first fashion show for plus-size 

figures, Tokyo Glamorous Pocchari Collection 

2017 A/W, was held. Several brands 

sponsored the event and are launching their 

own plus-size lines. 

As with all big changes that need to 

happen, it’s these small movements that will 

ultimately lead to a culture shift as Japan 

edges towards acceptance of a more physically 

diverse society, and support of those 

who are suffering. 

If you or someone you know needs help, 

find out more about TELL's eating disorders 

treatment program at telljp.com/counseling/ 

eating-disorders 

ALTHOUGH THE ROYAL FAMILY DESCRIBED PRINCESS 

AIKO AS SIMPLY BEING “TEMPORARILY ILL,” THE 

MEDIA AGGRESSIVELY REPORTED HER TO BE 

SERIOUSLY ANOREXIC 

Dr. Aya Nishizono-Maher, a founding 

member of the Japan Association for Eating 

Disorders (JAED), which was established in 

2016, elaborates: “The cause of eating disorders 

does not simply come from the desire to 

be thinner and prettier. This tends to often 

get misunderstood. Many cases happen in 

situations like this: A so-called ‘good girl’ 

and a hard worker experiences a setback in 

her academic or sports performance. She 

keeps on making an effort to do better but 

sacrifices her time for eating in the process. 

Then people around her start to admire her 

for getting thinner and ‘prettier.’ That accelerates 

her habit of not eating. No matter how 

much effort she makes, she may not achieve 

number one in her academic record if other 

people continue to excel more; but losing 

weight fulfills her desire to achieve a result.” 

Is anorexia more common in Japan 

specifically, as opposed to other countries? 

The answer is hard to find. Nishizono-Maher 

explains: “The prevalence rate of eating disorders 

is difficult to assess because in both 

anorexic and bulimic cases, the percentage 

of people that actually visit doctors is very 

low. Also, the prevalence rate depends on 

whether to include the increasing grey zone 

of people with lighter symptoms. If we only 

include patients that meet all the diagnostic 

criteria, the prevalence rate of anorexia nervosa 

in young females in Japan is considered 

to be slightly less than 1%, and 2% for bulimia 

nervosa, as in other developed countries. 

Currently, the average number of new onset 

anorexic sufferers in developed countries 

is five to seven in every 100,000, and it is 

evaluated to be the same for Japan. It might 

seem like a small number, but this means 

Tokyo alone has 600 to 800 new anorexic 

patients every year. And this does not count 

potentially anorexic people who do not see 

doctors.” 

Regardless of the statistics, one of the 

biggest problems is lack of support. According 

to Nishizono-Maher, most developed 

countries have dedicated treatment facilities 

for eating disorders, yet there are none in 

Japan, aside from a few independent support 

groups such as TELL and community 

forums. In 2014, a division was established 

in the National Institute of Mental Health 

(NCNP) called the Center for Eating Disorder 

Research and Information (CEDRI), which 

allowed some studies and educational 

activities to be carried out. Under this center, 

find a professional who speaks English, but 

one cannot break the distorted pattern of 

eating while keeping the problem to oneself. 

I often hear foreigners complain that when 

they moved to Japan their clothing size went 

up from medium to large due to the smaller 

sizing of Japanese clothing, or that there are 

too many places to eat out. But at the same 

time, there are beneficial aspects in Japan 

when it comes to living a healthier life – ease 

of finding healthy foods, smaller portion 

sizes, and safer streets for walking outside.” 

To try and help educate her patients 

about the importance of better eating habits, 

Mami Suzuki hosts regular cooking classes. 

“As a dietitian, I cannot cure patients’ conditions, 

but I share my experiences in the hope 

that it might help them recover. Their own 

will to overcome their condition is the most 

important thing.” 

As Western plus-size models, such as 

Ashley Graham, continue to advocate the 

importance of being comfortable in our own 


Looking for your next job in Japan? 

Weekender has teamed up with 

Sunny Side Up Career and 

Coto Work to bring you 

the latest professional 

opportunities 

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A foreigner-friendly company that believes strongly in the value and 

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- Produce PR-related events such as press conferences and media 

relations 

- Progress management of project budgets, and team management 

- Minimum five years of experience in marketing communications 

- Languages: business-level Japanese and English 

Location: Triumph Tokyo office 


BRAND COMMUNICATION ASSISTANT 

Sloggi Japan is looking for a brand communication expert to lead and 

develop regional marketing programs. The role includes managing 

the advertising and promotion budget, assisting with studying and 

analyzing consumer trends, and activities such as digital marketing, 

brand communication, retail marketing, brand merchandising, and 

store design. 

Requirements: 

- 3+ years’ work experience 

- 3+ years’ brand or communication experience in apparel, retail, or 

related industries is preferred 

- Experience with products targeting age group 20s to 30s is 

preferable 

- Analysis and proposal creation experience 

- University degree 

- Language: Japanese and basic English 

Location: Tokyo 

Salary: Competitive (based on experience 

To apply for these jobs and view more opportunities, visit 

38 | NOVEMBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER 

www.tokyoweekender.com/careers

Haruo’s daughter Maria and nephew Kazuo Fujita, 1955, Londrina, Paraná, ©Haruo Ohara/Instituto Moreira Salles Collection 

LIFE AND LANDSCAPES 

November’s art roundup kicks off with the photography of Haruo Ohara, which 

depicts his experiences after he emigrated to Brazil in his teens. 

TOKYO TOKYO WEEKENDER WEEKENDER | | | NOVEMBER DECEMBER | MARCH 2017 2016 | | 39

ART & MUSIC 

LIVING ON BRAZIL'S WIDE EARTH – THE HIDDEN STORY OF EMIGRANT PHOTOGRAPHER OHARA HARUO 

Born in Kochi Prefecture, Haruo Ohara moved with his family to Brazil in 1927, at the age of 17, and eventually settled in region of 

Londrina, in the southern state of Paraná. Ohara didn’t get his first camera until he was in his late twenties, but he learned photography 

while he wasn’t farming. Amassing a large collection of photographs over the years, he only began to receive attention for them 

when he was in his sixties. His pictures are important documents of Japanese immigrant life as well as poetic meditations on the vast 

landscapes of rural Brazil. FUJIFILM SQUARE Until December 28 fujifilmsquare.jp/en/event.html 

Morning Clouds, 1952, Terra Boa, Paraná, ©Haruo Ohara/Instituto Moreira Salles Collection 

THE ART WORLD 

OUR PICK OF THE CITY’S BEST EXHIBITIONS 

Compiled by Alec Jordan 

Glass Tulip, 1992, Roland DARASPE ©Philippe Chancel 

THE LIVING TREASURES 

OF FRANCE 

The French title of Maître d’Art (“Master 

of Art”) was established in 1994 by 

France’s Ministry of Culture, and inspired 

by Japan’s certification of “Living National 

Treasures” – creators who are so skilled 

at their craft that they raise it to another 

level. The Maître d’Art certification was 

created in a dual hope: to preserve and 

transmit traditional craftsmanship, while 

also inspiring innovation. This exhibit 

assembles the work of 15 master artists 

and artisans, who work with everything 

from tortoiseshell and heraldic engraving 

to umbrellas and fans. Hyokeikan, 

Tokyo National Museum Until November 

26 www.fr-treasures.jp/en 

Cup, Tenmoku, 2017, Jean GIREL, © Philippe Chancel 


PARK Seo-Bo, Ecriture No.000508, 2000, mixed media with Korean paper on canvas, 

Collection: Mie Prefectural Art Museum 

Vincent van Gogh, The Sower, 1888, Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam 

© Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam (Vincent van Gogh Foundation) 

RHYTHM IN MONOCHROME | KOREAN ABSTRACT PAINTING 

Korean abstract art has drawn plenty of attention in the art world over the past 

several years, and the work of its best-known practitioners has been fetching 

high prices at art auctions around the world. Perhaps most captivating about the 

country’s unique take on the form is that it blends the concepts of Western abstract 

art with the spirit of traditional Eastern art and inspiration from natural forms. This 

collection of works focuses on the Dansaekhwa (“monochrome”) movement, which 

manages to achieve significant aesthetic effect with a minimalist approach. Tokyo 

Opera City Art Gallery Until December 24 www.operacity.jp/en/ag 

VAN GOGH & JAPAN 

“All my work is based to some extent on Japanese art…” These are the words of 

Vincent Van Gogh, who at first did not pay a great deal of attention to Japonisme. 

However, when he moved to Paris and began to modernize his artistic style, he saw 

Japanese prints as examples for his own work, and as equals to the masterpieces 

of Western art history. Eventually, he would incorporate Japanese elements – bold 

color, stylization, and a flattening of perspective – into his paintings. Not only does this 

exhibit explore Japan’s influence on Van Gogh, it also details the gravitational pull that 

the tormented artist had on generations of Japanese art enthusiasts. Tokyo Metropolitan 

Art Museum Until January 8, 2018 gogh-japan.jp/english 

M 

MUSIC 

Just released over the last few weeks, 

these are three albums we’ve had stuck 

in our heads since our first listen. 

BECK – COLORS 

Kicking off with its 

propulsive title track, 

Beck’s 13th studio 

album – which we got 

a taste of with singles 

“Wow” (2016) and 

“Dreams” (2015) – is 

a romp through styles like only we’d expect from 

the 47-year-old rocker. ”Wow” has a heady hip 

hop vibe, “I’m So Free” is reminiscent of Nirvana’s 

“Lithium,” and “No Distraction” has more than 

a touch of The Police to it. You’ll probably be 

hearing a lot of the standout track “Up All Night,” 

which has already made its way to the FIFA 2017 

soundtrack. 

KAMASI 

WASHINGTON 

– HARMONY OF 

DIFFERENCE 

His first album after the 

nearly three-hour debut 

that was The Epic, 

Harmony of Difference 

feels like something of a miniature coming from 

tenor saxophonist Kamasi Washington. His latest 

is a tight set of short compositions that blend 

one into the other, seamlessly making their way 

through funk, Brazilian rhythms, and straightahead 

jazz, culminating in a final track – “Truth” – 

which is a return to The Epic style form, complete 

with dramatic backing vocals. A well-paced and 

well-produced album with a sophisticated polish. 

MOSES 

SUMNEY – 

AROMANTICISM 

Moses Sumney has 

been gaining attention 

on the indie 

scene since the release 

of a five-track 

EP in 2014; since then he’s released a series of 

singles and EPs, and toured with Sufjan Stevens 

and James Blake. Sumney’s debut full length is 

a meditation on solitude – a rare, yet also quite 

common thing in our “hyperconnected” day 

and age – brought to life by an impressive vocal 

range, thought provoking lyrics, and harmonically 

sumptuous arrangements. Not necessarily 

one to get your toes tapping, but one to get you 

thinking and feeling. 


1 

3 

Photo by TERASHI Masahiko 

2 

4 

7 

8 

5 6 

AGENDA: THE WEEKENDER ROUNDUP OF WHAT’S HAPPENING IN NOVEMBER 

1 

NOV 1-5 

2 

NOV 1-30 

3 

NOV 16 

4 

NOV 1-15 

TOKYO MOTOR 

SHOW 2017 

See how vehicles will evolve as 

technology moves forward at 

this year’s “Beyond the Motor” 

themed show. 

Where: Tokyo Big Sight 

How much: ¥1,800 

More info: tokyoweekender.com 

120 YEARS OF THE 

JAPAN TIMES 

Exhibition showcasing the English 

newspaper’s achievements since its 

founding in 1897, including the role 

and impact it has had on Japan. 

Where: Newspark (Japan Newspaper 

Museum) 



LA TRAVIATA OPERA 

The world-famous Italian opera 

tells the tale of Parisian high society, 

and follows the life of courtesan 

Violetta Valéry. 

Where: New National Theatre, Tokyo 

How much: ¥5,400-¥27,000 


CHRYSANTHEMUM 

FESTIVAL 

An annual festival of 

chrysanthemum flower beds 

with unique displays conducted 

since 1929. 

Where: Shinjuku Gyoen 

How much: ¥200 


NOV 27-28 

DESIGN FESTA – FALL 

The biggest contemporary art and 

design showcase in Asia with over 

10,000 exhibitors, featuring live 

music, drama, dance, and other 

performances. 

Where: Tokyo Big Sight 

How much: ¥800 

More info: designfesta.com/en/ 

6 NOV 3 

MEIJI JINGU SHRINE 

YABUSAME 

Watch yabusame, the impressive 

Japanese martial art of horseback 

archery at the shrine’s park. 

Where: Meiji Jingu Shrine 



5 7 

NOV 8-12 

KEBAB GRAND PRIX 

Find all the best kebabs in Tokyo, 

participate in belly dancing 

competitions, and buy Turkish 

beer and exotic snacks. 

Where: Okubo Park 



8 NOV 7-26 

MARJORIE PRIME PLAY 

The new Japanese adaptation of 

American writer Jordan Harrison’s 

Pulitzer Prize-nominated play about 

growing old and future technologies. 

Where: New National Theatre, Tokyo 

How much: ¥3,240-¥6,480 




TOP THINGS 

TO DO, SEE, 

AND EAT 

IN TOHOKU 

The 2011 earthquake and tsunami left the Tohoku region devastated, 

but far from beaten. If you’re planning a visit to the area, check out 

our guide to exploring and dining (including halal options), as well 

as places to reflect on the effects of the disaster 

Words by Matthew Hernon 

While there is still much to do to 

aid the recovery effort in the 

north-eastern portion of Honshu, 

remarkable progress has 

been made over the past six and a half years, 

particularly in the worst hit prefectures of 

Fukushima, Miyagi and Iwate. 

Tourism in Tohoku – which also includes 

Aomori, Akita and Yamagata (these prefectures 

suffered only minor damage from the 

disaster, but have continued to provide support 

for their neighbors in Tohoku) – suffered 

as a result of the disaster, but has seen an 

increase in the number of visitors to the 

area since 2015. Despite this, it remains one 

of the most underrated areas in all of Japan, 

boasting natural wonders, rustic hot spring 

towns, lively festivals, all kinds of culinary 

delights and so much more. 

Here, we round up some of the top 

activities and sights in the different prefectures, 

while being mindful of recovery 

efforts. Over the page, we gather together 

some of our favorite eats, and offer a guide 

for those looking for halal foods and 

Muslim-friendly facilities. 

TOP THINGS 

TO DO 

MIYAGI 

Disposing of the staggering 15.6 million tons 

of debris was just one of the herculean tasks 

Miyagi citizens faced following the tragedy 

in 2011. The fishing town of Ishinomaki 

alone was burdened with around 6.2 million 

tons. Though the rubble has since been 

cleared, the affected coastal areas remain 

barren. Looking out over the waterfront from 

the hilltop park of Hiyoriyama provides a 

stark reminder of the destruction. There are 

guided tours around disaster areas to help 

raise awareness of tsunami preparedness and 

at Oginohama Elementary School you can 

see the works of artist Parco Kinoshita who's 

carving thousands of mini wooden statues in 

honor of those killed on March 11. 

It's a day that locals will never forget, but 

they are determined to push forward and 

encourage more visitors to the area. A tour 

from Ishinomaki to the islands of Tashirojima 

(pictured left) and Matsushima is particularly 

popular. The former is home to more cats 

than people, while the latter is considered 

one of the three great scenic spots of Japan. 

Taking a dip in an open-air bath overlooking 

Matsushima Bay is highly recommended. 

It's also worth spending time in the "City of 

Trees" that is Sendai, especially during the 

Aoba Festival in May, which commemorates 

the death of Daimyo Date Masamune. 

IWATE 

The second largest prefecture in Japan, Iwate 

was severely damaged as a result of the 

earthquake and tsunami. One of the worst hit 

areas was Rikuzentakata, a coastal city that's 

become an international symbol of resilience 

and reclamation. A 250-year-old miracle 

pine tree, the only one among 70,000 trees 

left standing after the devastation (it was 

preserved using a rod and synthetic branches 

when salt water destroyed its roots in 2012), 

attracts busloads of tourists and there are 

opportunities to work with local farmers, 

fishermen and craftspeople as part of the 

Marugoto Rikuzentakata Project. 

When it comes to natural wealth, few 

prefectures are as rich as Iwate. A boat ride 


[ PROMOTION ] 

around the spectacular Geibikei (Geibi Gorge) 

is fascinating in any season, though autumn 

is the most delightful time to visit. The nearby 

Genbikei is a humbler gorge, but pleasant 

nonetheless. Whilst in the area a visit to the 

town of Hiraizumi is a must. As Tohoku's first 

UNESCO World Heritage Site, it features some 

of the region's most precious historic and 

cultural properties. The Sanriku Coast should 

also be explored. Along the way, stop off at 

the impressive cliffs of Kitayamazaki and 

relax near the iconic rocks of Jodogahama 

Beach. 

FUKUSHIMA 

Unfortunately, due to the nuclear crisis, many 

are still reluctant to go to Fukushima, yet the 

vast majority of this delightful prefecture is 

perfectly fine and open for business as usual. 

The no-entry zone around Fukushima Daiichi 

Nuclear Power Plant makes up less than 

three percent of the area, while the rest of the 

5,320-square-mile region has been deemed 

safe so tourists can wander around without 

fear. Those concerned about food grown in 

the prefecture can experience the Study Farm 

in Nihonmatsu and speak with local farmers. 

With around 135 onsen in total, Fukushima 

is known as a hot spring haven. Some 

of the surrounding scenery is majestic, especially 

landscapes shaped by past volcanic activity. 

A prime example is Mt. Bandai, which 

last erupted in 1888. It led to the creation of a 

cluster of five lakes known as Goshikinuma, 

each of which has its own delicate 

color ranging from cobalt blue to reddish 

green. The imposing mountain overlooks 

the samurai town of Aizu-Wakamatsu which 

boasts a rich warrior history dating back 

more than 1,000 years. The town's main attraction 

is Tsuruga Castle, a concrete replica 

of the Kurokawa Castle built in 1384. 

YAMAGATA 

Another prefecture famed for its hot 

springs, Yamagata is a pleasant place to visit 

all year round. However, it is especially 

popular in the early part of the summer 

when people go to pick cherries, and in 

winter when many tourists hit the slopes. 

One of the most picturesque locations is 

Zao Onsen, a well-known ski and hot spring 

resort where you can see ice trees that are 

known as snow monsters. The best time to 

view them is in the evening from a café at 

the summit when they are lit up. 

After a long day skiing or snowboarding, 

it's also nice to take a dip in one of Zao's 

relaxing hot spring baths. While not as 

famous as the secluded onsen town of Ginzan, 

the water in the area is among the most 

acidic in the country with a pH value of 

close to one. Zao's main and most dazzling 

attraction is the teal-hued crater lake on the 

mountain bordering Yamagata and Miyagi 

known as "Okama" (bowl), which simply put 

is one of the most spectacular spots in all of 

Japan. Other eye-catching locations in the 

prefecture include the revered religious site 

of Dewa Sanzan in Mount Haguro and Risshaku-ji, 

a mountain temple with stunning 

views of Yamagata City. 

AOMORI 

The northernmost prefecture in Honshu, 

Aomori is known for its abundance of 

natural beauty and delightful water. Nowhere 

is this more evident than at Oirase 

Mountain Stream where you can see almost 

30 crystal clear cascading waterfalls within 

a 14-kilometer hike through the deciduous 

forest. Designated a special scenic spot and 

natural monument of the prefecture, it's one 

of Tohoku's most alluring sites. Be warned 

though, it can get crowded in autumn due to 

the dazzling foliage colors. 

Connected to Oirase Stream is Lake Towada, 

the largest caldera lake in Honshu, where 

the water is so translucent you can see down 

for 10 meters. Other well-known sites in Aomori 

worth going to are Hirosaki Castle, especially 

during spring when thousands of cherry 

trees are in bloom, and Sannai-Maruyama, a 

Jomon period archaeological site discovered 

by accident while surveying land to build a 

community baseball field. The most exciting 

time to visit the prefecture is early in August 

when the country's largest Nebuta Festival 

takes place. Nebuta refers to the float of a 

warrior figure that's carried through the city. 

If you can't make it in the summer, the next 

best option is to visit the Nebuta Warasse 

Museum featuring all kinds of memorabilia 

from the festival's 300-year history. 

AKITA 

When it comes to tourism, Akita feels relatively 

untouched compared to the country's 

more glamorous prefectures, and this is part 

of the region's charm. It's a great opportunity 

to escape the large crowds and enjoy the 

attractive natural wonders on view such as 

Lake Tazawa and the beech forest of Nyuto 

Village featuring seven hot spring baths, 

each with their own water source. The most 

famous site in the area is Shirakami-Sanchi, 

a vast mountain range that straddles both 

Akita and Aomori. There are numerous 

scenic treasures along the way including the 

mesmerizing sapphire-blue pond. 

Winters can be quite harsh in Akita, 

but don't let that put you off. For many, 

it's the best time to be there as there are 

many intriguing festivals. A ritual known as 

Namahage, in which men dressed as ogrelike 

figures descend from the mountains 

with drums and torches looking for naughty 

children, takes place at the end of the year. 

In mid-February the city of Yokote is taken 

over by igloos for the 400-year-old Kamakura 

Snow Festival. Around the same time the Hiburi 

Kamakura Fire-spinning Festival is held 

in the samurai town of Kakunodate. 

(For even more things to do in Akita, check out 

our supplement guide, included in this issue.) 


TOP THINGS 

TO EAT 

IWATE 

There are some amazing beef and seafood 

options in Iwate, but if you are only there for 

a short time, make sure you try at least one of 

the famous noodle dishes in the prefecture. 

The most interesting of the so-called "Three 

Great Noodles of Morioka" is wanko soba (see 

opposite page). Jajamen is similar to udon, 

but served with a special meat-miso sauce, 

cucumber and green onion. Morioka reimen, 

meanwhile, has a uniquely chewy texture 

that goes well with Korean kimchi. 

MIYAGI 

Now a national favorite, gyūtan (sliced cow's 

tongue) was first created back in 1948 at a 

small restaurant in Sendai called Tasuke 

that’s still popular today. These days there are 

a wide range of establishments serving the 

succulent meat including well-known eateries 

such as Rikyu and Kisuke. It's undoubtedly 

the most famous dish in Miyagi, but nonmeat 

lovers needn't worry as the prefecture’s 

also known for its seasonal vegetables and 

seafood. It’s Japan’s second largest oyster 

producing region behind Hiroshima. Maruemon 

(Miyagi’s most famous brand of oyster) 

couldn’t be harvested for some time after 

2011, but now sales seem to be back on track. 

Donations from France helped greatly during 

what was an extremely difficult period. 

FUKUSHIMA 

Farmers in Fukushima have suffered badly 

in recent times, but there seems to be some 

light at the end of the tunnel as concerns 

over the safety of their products are fading. 

Countries such as Britain, Malaysia and Singapore 

have started importing from the region 

again. Local rice known as Ten no Tsubu is 

considered by many to the best in Japan. The 

same could be said for Fukushima’s peaches, 

which are known for their exceptional taste, 

firmness and juicy texture. Copious quantities 

of cherries, pears, grapes, persimmons and 

apples are also produced there, making the 

prefecture something of a “fruit kingdom” in 

Japan. If ramen is your thing make sure you 

visit Kitakata City, one of the top three ramen 

locations in the country. 

YAMAGATA 

Like Fukushima, Yamagata is considered a 

fruit paradise, producing 70 percent of all 

the cherries in the country, and more La 

France pears than any other region. There 

are a variety of other fruits harvested at 

different times through the year including 

strawberries, grapes and peaches, as well as 

all kinds of mountain vegetables. Then there's 

Yonezawa beef, recognized as one of the three 

top wagyu beef brands in Japan along with 

Kobe and Matsuzaka. In autumn, imoni is the 

dish of choice. Using hot pots, local residents, 

guests and tourists gather at Mamigasaki River 

in early September to prepare the dish that 

is made up of beef stew and taro (a potato-like 

root vegetable). 

AKITA 

The main dish associated with Akita is 

undoubtedly kiritanpo. It consists of cooked 

rice that is kneaded and wrapped around a 

skewer to form a cylindrical shape before 

being grilled. One of the most common ways 

to eat it is in a hot pot with chicken broth, 

burdock, maitake mushroom, Japanese parsley 

and green onion. Misotanpo, where sweet 

miso paste is spread over the rice, is another 

enticing option. Usually enjoyed between 

autumn and spring, kiritanpo goes very 

well with sake. During the winter months 

hatahata (known in English as sandfish) is 

very popular and viewed as a valuable source 

of protein. They can be enjoyed in a hot pot, 

grilled or as sushi. 

AOMORI 

No trip to Aomori would be complete without 

trying some apples or taking a dip in an apple 

hot spring bath. Production of the pomaceous 

fruit in the area exceeds more than 50 

percent of the total domestic share. There are 

many varieties, though the most famous is the 

Fuji apple which is not, contrary to popular 

belief, named after Mt. Fuji, but Fujisaki City 

where it was developed from several American 

apples. Large, sweet and crisp, Fuji apples 

have a long shelf life, lasting a year when 

refrigerated. In autumn you can try the apple 

harvesting tour at Hirosaki Park, home to 

over 1,300 apple trees. A cider factory is also 

located in the park. 


6 SPOTS 

FOR HALAL 

HUNTERS 

WHERE 

TO STAY 

Three Tohoku hotels offering halal 

food and Muslim-friendly facilities 

Words by Naomi Schanen 

The new Muslim Friendly 

Tohoku campaign aims 

to help the region become 

Japan's most Muslim-friendly 

tourist destination 

Breathtaking scenery, delicious delicacies, 

and colorful culture – Tohoku 

has it all. However, as with the rest 

of Japan, finding Muslim-friendly 

food here can prove difficult. Hoping to offer 

Muslim visitors a taste of Japanese cuisine and 

culture, the Muslim Friendly Tohoku campaign 

is inspiring a growing number of restaurants 

and hotels around Tohoku to begin offering 

Muslim-friendly food and facilities. We visited 

several spots to try out 

the eats and offerings 

for ourselves, and here 

are our top six recommended 

places for halal 

hunters in Tohoku… 

AZUMAYA HONTEN 

WANKO SOBA IN 

MORIOKA, IWATE 

PREFECTURE 

Wanko soba is an Iwate 

Prefecture delicacy that 

works much like an all-you-can-eat game. 

Served with various condiments such as tuna 

sashimi and nameko mushrooms on the side, 

small portions of buckwheat noodles are 

poured into your bowl one after another. One 

normal portion of soba is equivalent to about 

15 small bowls of wanko soba. The bowls you 

finish are stacked beside you as a symbol of 

your achievements. We took on the challenge 

at Azumaya and managed to devour 51 bowls, 

beating the men’s average. The restaurant, 

unlike traditional wanko soba spots in Iwate, 

serves a Muslim-friendly version by substituting 

Japanese soup stock with kelp or shiitake 

alternatives, and not using mirin (rice wine) 

as a condiment. www.wankosoba-azumaya. 

co.jp/foreigner/english 

AKIU VEGITA KURABU IN SENDAI, 

MIYAGI PREFECTURE 

Tucked away in the farmland of rural Miyagi 

Prefecture, Vegita Kurabu is run by a handful 

of passionate farmers who want to bring to 

light the importance of vegetables. They grow 

a wide array of fresh produce in their greenhouses 

and fields, and 

in addition to selling 

their vegetables to local 

stores, the group invites 

people to enjoy their 

natural bentos amidst 

the lush greenery of 

their farm. As they use 

halal soy sauce and vegetable 

soup stock, the 

multi-colored, healthy 

meals are not only 

perfect for vegetarians 

and vegans, but also for Muslims who want to 

experience the Japanese countryside. 58 Akiu-Machi 

Babaji Takihara, Taihaku-ku, Sendai, 

Miyagi Prefecture. Tel: 022-399-5020. 

YAHATAYA IN ISHINOMAKI, 

MIYAGI PREFECTURE 

Yahataya restaurant is a hidden gem in the 

quaint streets of the seaside city of Ishinomaki. 

In 2011, the port city was badly affected by 

the Tohoku earthquake, and the restaurant 

was destroyed. However, since reopening in 

2012, it strives to use the freshest local produce 

and seafood to showcase the beauty of 

Miyagi cuisine. We were spoiled with oyster 

tempura, sashimi, as well as local delicacies 

– deep-fried gluten (aburafu) and sweet edamame 

paste mochi (zunda mochi) – all made 

in a halal manner. Home to some of the best 

seafood in Japan, Ishinomaki is the perfect 

place to indulge in Muslim-friendly local dishes 

while supporting the once disaster-struck 

harbor city. If you’ve got some spare time, 

hop on a ferry to Tashirojima, another one of 

Japan’s “cat islands.” www.i-yahataya.com 

HOTEL METROPOLITAN SENDAI 

IN MIYAGI PREFECTURE 

This stylish hotel is a great place to stay 

when exploring Miyagi Prefecture’s 

capital city. The hotel's Hayase restaurant 

provides halal breakfast, lunch 

and dinner. Believing that Japanese 

food is a huge part of its culture, the 

chef told Weekender that he incorporates 

local delicacies to let Muslims 

experience true Japanese cuisine. 

www.sendaimetropolitan.jp 

APPI RESORT IN AKIMANTAI, 

IWATE PREFECTURE 

Located in the central city of Akimantai, 

this family-friendly resort allows 

for easy access to Iwate, Akita and 

Aomori prefectures. Whether it’s 

glamping and fishing in summer, or 

snowboarding in winter, there’s something 

for everyone at APPI Resort. For 

Muslim visitors, a wide variety of halal 

meals and bentos, private hot spring 

baths, and prayer spaces are available. 

www.appi.co.jp 

UJO NO YADO SHINTSUTA, 

FUKUSHIMA PREFECTURE 

Unwind in the southern coastal region 

of Fukushima Prefecture at Ujo no 

Yado Shintsuta ryokan. Savor delicious 

dishes featuring local seafood and 

ingredients at Tohoku’s first halal 

restaurant, where Muslim guests can 

enjoy Japanese dishes worry-free. 

A prayer room is also provided. The 

hotel, located in Yumoto Onsenkyo, a 

hot spring town, has private garden hot 

spring baths. www.shintsuta.com 

Check out the Muslim Friendly Tohoku tours: 

www.japanican.com/en/area/tohoku 


EXPLORE KORIYAMA: 

The Gateway 

to Fukushima 

Words by Lisa Wallin. Photographs by Robert Kirsch 

If you enjoyed our Tohoku 

travel guide, you might 

decide to linger longer 

and experience more. We 

recommend discovering 

Koriyama – a city many 

have never heard of, yet 

is packed with unique 

experiences (and also 

happens to be a host town 

for the Netherlands for the 

2020 Tokyo Olympics) 

Koriyama is almost straight due north 

from Tokyo and is a gateway to the 

rest of Fukushima Prefecture. Once 

a village with little arable land, 

everything changed in the Meiji era 

when Dutch-driven technology and knowhow 

created a canal leading from Lake Inawashiro 

to the village. The city exploded from a population 

of 2,000 to its 330,000-plus residents, and 

became a rich cultural and technological hub. 

Despite this – and its convenient Shinkansen 

station, which is only 77 minutes from Tokyo – 

the city often gets passed by, both literally and 

figuratively. We set out to see what treasures 

await here, and were pleasantly surprised. 

LIFE, CRAFTS, AND ALL THAT JAZZ 

We arrived in Koriyama on a crisp autumn 

morning and were instantly whisked off to 

Takashiba Deko Yashiki, a collection of five 

craft-making houses that have been making 

traditional hariko dolls and masks for over 300 

years. We had set our sights on painting one of 

these papier-mâché figures, but first we were 

in for a show – and a lecture on life. 

Hiroji Hashimoto, a very spry 72-year-old 

and 17th generation doll maker at Hashimoto 

Hiroji Mingei, makes 3,000-5,000 dolls and 

masks a year at his workshop together 

with only one or two staff members. As he 

explained the doll construction process, he 

got a little deeper. “Everything I make here 

is possible because people hundreds of years 

before me made these molds and these 

dolls,” he said, clearly thankful and amazed 

by his forefathers' dedication to the craft. 

He continued, on a slight tangent: “However, 

it's important to have balance in life. We as 

humans dirty our hearts and need to find 

a way to clean the soul. I can sit and work 

quietly making dolls for hours on end, but if 

I only did that, it would be no good. When I 

wear one of these masks I become lively ... 

It's a kind of release.” 

Not quite sure what he meant but 

listening eagerly to his advice, we watched 

as he put on his mask and transformed into 


[ PROMOTION ] 

explained how sake is made, we 

one of the three great manju in 

were treated to an impromptu 

Japan. Ready for a challenge, 

performance by Maki Niida, the 

we rolled up our sleeves and 

chief brewer's wife and resident 

got stuck in with the expert 

Okami-san. An accomplished 

guidance of manju maker Koji 

pianist, she sometimes organizes 

Ono, who reportedly can make 

jazz concerts on the second floor 

20 manju in seven minutes. 

of the brewery, where the acous- 

It took slightly longer for us 

tics and atmosphere are second 

and they didn't turn out as round 

to none. 

as they should, nor were they the 

LAKESIDE SUNSETS AND 

DINING OUT 

Lunch followed, with a special 

right size. Even so, Ono praised 

us on our awkward skills and 

after a mere eight-minute wait, 

they were steamed and ready to 

rarity: carp. We were served 

go. We took our handmade man- 

a full course with the fish at 

ju home as a one-of-a-kind omi- 

Shogatsuso, a specialty restau- 

yage (or, for some of us, to eat on 

rant dedicated to the fish. Carp 

the road). Ono kindly offered us 

has traditionally been avoided 

some samples of his own manju, 

as a source of food, as they are 

which were heavenly. The thin, 

bottom feeders and this affects 

ever-so-slightly crisp skin around 

the taste. However, Koriyama's 

the adzuki bean paste added 

are raised and fed in a clean 

a delightful texture to the bun 

environment, making the fish 

without making it too heavy. 

taste light and fresh. The lunch 

As late afternoon neared, we 

set served carp in every way 

set out again, this time to catch 

imaginable – from sashimi to 

the sunset over Lake Inawashi- 

Chinese-inspired dishes, and 

ro, also known as the Heaven 

even finished with a delightfully 

Mirroring Lake. It retains a 

spicy carp ochazuke (a bowl 

higher transparency than other 

of rice with green tea or dashi 

lakes in Japan due to high levels 

poured over it). 

of iron and aluminum dissolved 

Though we almost had to 

in the water from the Nagaseg- 

roll out of the door from there, 

awa. As the sun set behind the 

we weren't done eating yet. At 

mountains in a colorful display 

Kaisei Kashiwaya we were in for 

of bright yellows, pinks and 

a real treat: making and eating 

orange, we found ourselves 

usukawa manju. Fukushima 

wondering how we could 

Prefecture is famed for its man- 

have missed a place with such 

ju, which has a thin, delicate 

warmth and beauty so close 

a completely different person. 

fun, and the opportunity to have 

sugar coating and is considered 

to home. 

He performed several different 

uninterrupted focus on a new 

styles of the traditional Hyot- 

task was invigorating. 

toko dance for us, seamlessly 

After a spectacular start to 

switching between the soft fluid 

the morning, our next stop was 

movements of a gracious woman 

Niida-Honke Sake Brewery, an 

to a rambunctious stomping and 

organic brewery started in 1711, 

jumping demon, then back to a 

which now aims to make all of its 

happy old man. Hashimoto cred- 

rice fields pesticide- and chem- 

its the power of the mask for his 

ical-free by 2025. To help attain 

amazing dances: “I lose myself 

this goal, all rice is grown by the 

in the dance and become 

brewery's own farmers instead 

another person." 

of being outsourced. 

Whether it was the power 

Yasuhiko Niida, the 18th 

of the mask or Hashimoto's life 

generation president and 

philosophy, it was hard to tell. 

head brewer, wants to create 

But it didn't matter – we were 

something entirely natural. This 

enthralled. 

includes their non-sake products, 

Eventually we did what 

such as Koji Choco, made with 

we came for, painting poor 

organic sake lees, as well as their 

imitations of an artist's craft – 

amazake – neither have any 

we don't think we'll be hired 

sugar added. As Niida showed 

anytime soon, but we did have 

us around the brewery and 


Society 

TOKYO’S LONGEST RUNNING SOCIAL COLUMN WITH BILL HERSEY 

These days, I’m not traveling as much as I used to, but it 

seems like our crazy old world with its terrorism, travel 

bans, rules, regulations and occasional flaky passengers 

make traveling more difficult and often more expensive 

than before. Hopefully this will all improve in the 

near future. As we all know, Tokyo is a really busy city and there’s so 

much to do. My recent discoveries and a few re-discoveries include 

Takeshita-Dori near Harajuku Station. This is such a fun, colorful, 

funky street with its fashion shops, restaurants, sweets shops, music 

studios, cat café, and the Harajuku Owl’s Forest – and it also has a 

currency exchange and information center for tourists. The street is 

well known, and very popular with Japanese and Korean pop stars, 

and many international 

visitors just looking 

for unusual fashion and 

souvenirs at reasonable 

prices. For more information, 

visit www.takeshita-street.com. 

Thanks to CNN news 

correspondent Christiane 

Amanpour, I learned 

about Vera Lynn, the 

English songbird whose 

music helped her country 

get through WWI 

with the many – and I do 

mean many – patriotic 

songs she sang. I wanted 

to buy one of her CDs, so 

I dropped by Tower Records 

and was really surprised 

at how busy they (and now King) Mohammed VI of Morocco 

TOKYO FLASHBACK: Bill with then Crown Prince 

were. They have a great 

selection of CDs, DVDs, showbiz-related books and even some fashion 

items. There’s also a nice café with a great ambiance. You might 

have to queue for a table there, though. Tower also has a pretty full 

schedule of press conferences – especially with visiting K-pop superstars. 

While there, I found two CDs by Vera as well as the original 

cast recordings of the top Broadway shows Hamilton and The Book of 

Mormon. 

BOUHLAL’S NATIONAL DAY RECEPTION 

AT THE PALACE HOTEL 

Talk about wonderful memories. Moroccan Ambassador Mohammed 

Bouhlal and his wife Fatima’s reception to celebrate the 18th 

anniversary of King H.M. Mohammed VI’s ascension to the throne. 

It really brought back wonderful memories of my 11 visits to their 

beautiful country. These took me from Tangiers in the north to Tan- 

Tan (home of the Blue Men in the south), and of course to mystical 

Marrakech. 

I’m sure some of you remember Masako Ohya, the colorful, eccentric, 

very rich and always fun wife of the President of Teijin. She spent 

considerable time in Morocco playing golf, and when the king – who 

was still crown prince at the time – was visiting Japan, Masako made 

sure I got to meet and spend some time with him and his entourage. 

This year’s National Day was held in the spacious Yamabuki room 

at the Palace Hotel. It was perfect for the occasion. It was good timing 

as Takashimaya was having a big Morocco promotion and let several 

of the musicians and craftsmen, whom they had flown in for the promotion, 

join the embassy event. It was really nice catching up with 

Japanese VIPs I hadn’t seen for a long time. These included Prime 

Minister Abe’s younger brother Nobuo Kishi (who was State Minister 

for Foreign Affairs at the time of the reception) and former Prime 

Minister Yasuhiro Nakasone’s son Hirofumi (who is now President of 

the Japan-Morocco Parliamentary League). I don’t like to think about 

how fast time flies, but I was so surprised to hear that his father is 99 

years old now. 

Former Tokyoite 

Kathy Kriger, who used 

to be with the US embassy 

here, was at the party 

too. I had dinner with her 

in Prague, where she was 

later posted and made 

many VIP connections. 

She moved on to Casablanca 

where she was 

able to fulfill her dream 

and open Rick’s Café 

Casablanca, inspired by 

the legendary Warner 

Brothers film. I'm happy 

to say that she, with her 

strong personality, good 

connections and business 

knowhow, was able 

to open the super popular 

bar and restaurant 

in Casablanca in 2004, and it’s been a huge success. Read her book, 

Rick’s Café: Bringing the Film Legend to Life in Casablanca, and you’ll 

learn a lot about how people can make their dreams come true – but 

it’s seldom easy. Morocco’s a great country to visit. If you’re lucky 

enough to get there, be sure to drop by Rick’s Café. 

DJIBOUTI INDEPENDENCE DAY 

Djibouti Ambassador Ahmed Araita Ali, his lovely wife, their 

children and the embassy staff went all out to make the country’s 

40th Independence Day celebration at the Okura a special evening. 

The program opened with a welcome speech by the host about his 

country’s strong and important diplomatic relationship with Japan 

and the many projects between the two countries. 

In 1992 Rachad Ahmed Saleh Farah – the Djibouti Ambassador 

at that time – invited me to spend eight days in his country, and in 

Weekender's June 19, 1992, issue I had a cover story on my many 

wonderful experiences there. 

My busy visit included a visit to the presidential palace and meeting 

President Aptidon. I had a car and a guide when I needed him 

and really enjoyed playing tourist in the small, beautiful country. 

Highlights of my visit included accidentally crashing a big wedding 


BOUHLAL’S 

MOROCCAN 

NATIONAL DAY 

RECEPTION 

1. Pres. of Japan-Morocco 

Parliamentary League 

Hirofumi Nakasone, Moroccan 

Amb. Mohammed Bouhlal, 

former State Minister of 

Foreign affairs Nobuo Kishi 

2. Brazil Amb. André Aranha 

Corrêa do Lago, Colombian 

Amb. Gabriel Duque 3. Amb. 

Bouhlal, Kuwait Amb. Abdul- 

Rahman Al-Otaibi 4. Yemen 

Amb. Samir Khamis, his 

wife Jamila, Fatima Bouhlal, 

Jordan Amb. Demiya Haddad 

5. Rwanda Amb. Venetia 

Sebudandi, Namibia Amb. 

Sophia-Namupa Nangombe 

6. Helge Maruyama, his 

mother Lilo, Marrakech 

hotelier, Elizabeth Bouhlal 

7. Mrs. Nakasone with Mary 

and Sho Katayama 

3 

1 

4 

2 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

11 

10 

12 

13 

DJIBOUTI NATIONAL 

DAY RECEPTION AT 

THE OKURA 

8. Harada and Oumma, their parents, 

Djibouti Amb. Ahmed Araita Ali, his 

wife Yasmine 9. Tuna sashimi! 10. 

Amb. Ali’s daughter Emely, noted 

pianist Reiko Awaji 11. Yemen Amb. 

Samir Mohamed Khamis, Yuzo 

and Keiko Sugiyama 12. Ethiopian 

restaurant Queen Sheba owner 

Solomon Galtreh and kora musician 

Momadou 13. Amb. Ali’s daughter’s 

Temple University classmates 


DRAKENSBERG BOYS 

CHOIR CONCERT 

1. South African Amb. to the EU Ajay K. 

Bramdeo and his wife, South African Chargé 

d’Affaires Royce Kuzwayo (center) 

2. Drakensberg School Deputy of Operations 

Johan Linde, Min-On Pres. Kazuto Ito 

3. Kenny Kabak, South African political 

counsellor Rene Everson-Varney, Linda 

Espag, Johan Linde, Min-On adviser Hiroyasu 

Kobayashi 4. Concert guests 

1 

2 

5 

3 

4 

6 7 

8 

ROYAL 

BANGKOK 

SYMPHONY 

ORCHESTRA 

5. Concert guests 6. Thai Embassy 

staff members Hilario Tan and 

Danny Tsizon 7. Fahad, Jumada, 

Jamila, and Yemen Amb. Samir 

Khasis 8. Thai Amb. Bansarn 

Bunnag and his wife, Ambassador 

of Thailand to Japan, Don 

Pramudwinai and his wife, Minister 

of Foreign Affairs of Thailand, Mr. 

Link, Mr. Poom, Mrs. Nunthinee, Dr. 

Gen. Suprija, Mrs. Atchara 


party for the son of a sultan and getting superb VIP treatment there. 

The costumes and dancing were awesome. I also enjoyed an Egyptian 

circus, a lunch on the deck of a French aircraft carrier which was 

docked there, catching a small octopus when I tried diving in the Red 

Sea, and marveling at the moon-like landscapes around Lake Assal, 

which is at the lowest point in Africa. (The original Planet of the Apes 

was filmed there.) I also remember waiting in my car for a friend 

when a big French foreign legionnaire – they had camps in Djibouti 

at that time – came over and tapped on my car window. I rolled down 

the window, and he, obviously drunk, spoke to me in French. Unfortunately, 

I don’t speak that beautiful language, but did realize he was 

asking me where I was from, so I said “USA – America.” He stood at 

attention, saluted me, and started to sing “Yankee Doodle Dandy” in 

English. This got the attention of people at a sidewalk café, and in a 

matter of minutes, a military vehicle pulled up, two legionnaires got 

out, picked him up, and put him in the back with two other legionnaires. 

I was told they took him back to their dormitory to sober him 

up. Traveling’s fun. 

At the Tokyo party, guests were treated to a delicious surprise 

halfway through the event when several chefs came out and took 

a huge canvas cover off a magnificent tuna and made sure all the 

guests got at least one serving of sashimi. As Lilo Maruyama said, it 

was so fresh that it melted in your mouth. Kudos again to the Alis and 

the Djibouti Embassy for putting on a perfect evening. 

MIN-ON SPONSORS SOUTH AFRICAN BOYS CHOIR 

Over the years, Soka Gakkai, through its music subsidiary the Min- 

On Concert Association, has given me and so many others the opportunity 

to see an amazing variety of international cultural events. 

One of their most recent cultural exchanges was bringing in 

South Africa’s Drakensberg Boys Choir for their fourth Japanese tour. 

This tour was to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the choir. 

They were in Japan for a two-month-long, 25-city tour. The youngest 

members of the choir were 10, while the oldest were 16. They 

performed pop songs, gospel, and both South African and Japanese 

folk songs. Their energy and choreography drew enthusiastic cheers 

and standing ovations at every performance. I had the privilege of 

seeing and hearing the show at Min-On’s headquarters. This was to 

celebrate the 99th anniversary of the late great Nelson Mandela’s 

birthday. There was a huge poster of Mandela with his legendary 

dynamic smile in the theater and the select group in the audience all 

felt he was looking down and enjoying it all. Congratulations to Min- 

On Founder Daisaku Ikeda, Min-On President Kazuto Ito, his staff, 

South African Chargé d’Affaires Royce Kuzwayo, the embassy staff 

and of course Mandela-san for making the evening with its energy 

and sensitivity so very special. I’d also like to mention that meeting, 

shaking hands and talking with President Mandela is one of the most 

memorable moments I’ve had in my life of great experiences. My 

thanks for that. 

ROYAL BANGKOK SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA 

AT SUNTORY HALL 

I hadn’t been to Suntory Hall since the late great Sony President Norio 

Ohga, who was also a talented conductor, passed away. My thanks 

to him for the invitations to his concerts there as well as he and 

Chichan Plessner’s invitation to the opening party in Berlin for the 

launch of the Sony Center. This time at Suntory Hall I was the guest 

of the very popular Thai Ambassador Bansarn Bunnag and his wife 

Yupadee. The occasion was a concert by the Royal Bangkok Symphony 

Orchestra in commemoration of the 130th anniversary of Thailand-Japan 

diplomatic relations. 

Suntory Hall has done considerable redecorating since I was last 

there. It’s a first-class venue with fountains out front, snack bars in 

the elegant lobby, comfortable seats, and of course great lighting and 

sound as well as a magnificent organ. The program opened with a 

speech by a special guest, the Minister of Foreign Affairs Don Pramudwinai. 

The musical program included favorites of Chopin, Haydn and 

Mozart as well as a fantasia on themes of his late, much-loved majesty 

King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Prominent Japanese conductor Koji 

Kawamoto, accomplished Thai pianist Poom Prommachart, and the 

versatile bass baritone singer Kittinant Chinsamran performed with 

the 65-piece orchestra to make it a very special evening of beautiful 

music. 

SHIGA’S NEW WEDDING HALL IN SAITAMA 

If you follow my column, I’m sure you'll know that one of my best 

friends is Saitama businessman Tsukasa Shiga. He has to be one of 

Japan’s busiest people. I first met Shiga when he was a student at 

St. Mary’s, and he spent considerable time at the Lexington Queen, 

the club I used to run in Roppongi. He really helped make the Lex 

become like Studio 54 in New York. 

After St. Mary’s, he went to Boston University and I often met up 

with him in New York. Our trips to the Big Apple gave us the opportunity 

to meet all kinds of celebrities and set up parties for so many 

of them when they visited Japan. When Shiga came back to Tokyo, 

we started a small company, HSI (Hersey Shiga Int’l), and got more 

involved in setting up events and parties, a modeling agency, doing 

film production and arranging for product placements in movies. 

After several fun, busy years, Shiga inherited much of his family 

business and had to move home to keep things going. Their company, 

Ceremony, has really grown. Their personalities and business knowhow 

have made them giants in the business. I’d like to close this column 

congratulating them on the November 3 opening of their new, 

majestic, European-style wedding hall, Stella dell’ Angelo, in Saitama. 

It really is very special. I’d also like to thank Shiga, his mom Reiko 

and his executive secretary Hiroko for their friendship and help in 

making my life here so interesting and special. Photos of the opening 

party later. 

Backstage at Kyodo’s popular Off-Broadway 

show Blast with top percussionist Naoki and 

model/actor Hide Kusakari at Tokyu Theatre Orb 

The multi-talented Steve Haynes and 

Mr. Supranational Japan 2017, Takamori Uekusa – 

off soon to Poland for the international contest 

Bill with the late great singer of Linkin Park, 

Chester Bennington 


[ PROMOTION ] 

WAYS TO REALLY LET 

THEM KNOW YOU’RE 

IN TOKYO 

Looking to share your Tokyo 

experiences with your friends and 

family back home? These are a few 

things you shouldn’t miss out on 

AIM HIGH 

While they’re not as iconic as 

the Eiffel Tower, Tokyo Tower 

and the massive Skytree have 

their own charm. They’re 

spots where you can feel just 

how big the city is, but also 

photogenic subjects in and of 

themselves. Getting to both 

places lets you explore different 

parts of Tokyo, too: Tokyo 

Tower is a stone’s throw from 

Roppongi, and neighborhoods 

like Asakusa and Kuramae lie 

in Skytree’s long shadow. 

SHARE A SHRINE 

Sacred spots for Shinto, Japan’s native religion, 

jinja (shrines) are also wonderfully picturesque 

locations, whether large or small. While the biggest 

ones, particularly Meiji Jingu, get a lot of attention, 

we’ve got a soft spot for Nezu Shrine, which isn’t far 

from Ueno Park. Although it really comes into its 

own during the spring, when the azaleas bloom, its 

tunnel of torii gates and its lovely gardens make it a 

year-round winner. 

GO POP 

Japanese popular culture is 

one of the things that draws 

visitors to Tokyo in droves. 

And if you’re looking for 

places to experience it, 

you’re spoiled for choice in 

the Big Mikan. Akihabara is 

an old favorite, filled with 

video arcades and maid 

cafes, Harajuku is ground 

zero for teenagers and 

twentysomethings in the 

latest fashion, and Nakano 

Broadway has shops dedicated 

to almost any kind 

of subculture you could 

imagine. 

SEE TSUKIJI – WHILE YOU 

STILL CAN 

They’ve been planning to move Tsukiji 

Fish Market to a new location for several 

years now, but because of issues with the 

new site, good old Tsukiji, the largest fish 

market in the world, is still in the same 

place – for now. Whether you get there 

before dawn to catch the auctions, or just 

roam around the stalls, this is one spot 

that you should see before it makes its 

(eventual) move. 

HIT THE ALLEYS 

Tokyo’s skyline is known for its massive skyscrapers 

and its blisteringly fast pace, but its yokocho (alleyways) 

are places where you can experience another 

side of life in the world’s largest city. Filled with 

small bars and eateries, these narrow byways make 

for perfect spots to taking pictures – and whiling 

away a boozy evening. You can’t go wrong at Shinjuku’s 

Golden Gai and Omoide Yokocho, or Kichijoji’s 

Harmonica Yokocho. 

DON’T GO WITHOUT A SIGNAL 

No matter where your travels take you in Japan, 

you don’t want to miss out on uploading your 

pictures and posts, finding your way around, and 

staying in touch with your friends while you’re 

on the go. When you rent a Pocket WiFi from 

Global Mobile, you can be online all the time, 

with blazing fast LTE. Service is available for as 

little as ¥200 a day. For more details, visit 

www.gmobile.biz/softbank/inbound. 


Our new online store featuring a curated selection of designer 

made-in-Japan items to enhance your living space, wardrobe, 

and beauty kit. Because everyone should have a touch of 

Japanese craftsmanship in their lives.

Tokyo Weekender - November 2017

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